None of the locals that I spoke to had heard that story, but seven years after the Dayton peace accords ended hostilities here, Croatia is slowly repairing its relationship with travellers prepared to judge for themselves whether God or Croatia got the better deal.

Zagreb is a chaotic mix of Italian, Austrian and Balkan influences, a mishmash of medieval and modern. And while Prague bar owners feel the need to put up signs saying "Please, no groups of drunken British men allowed", Zagreb is an affordable weekend break destination for travellers who fancy a cocktail of central European culture, Hapsburg architecture and Mediterranean weather without the stag parties.

Although Zagreb is an amalgam of old city (Kaptol and Gradec) and new town (Donji grad), it has a compact city centre, hemmed in by the slopes of the Medvednica hill to the north and Sava river to the south. (Locals call the suburbs over the river the "sleeping room" because of its dearth of entertainment.) It's small enough to cover on foot, and most locations are central.

In terms of pace and rhythm, this is a city where people like to stroll, even during rush hour. "As soon as the sun comes out, the cafes with outdoor tables are mobbed. I don't know how any work gets done," says Ida, a young Croatian who has returned from studying at LSE to help run her father's construction company.

The city's population of 800,000 people seem a very friendly bunch, but centuries of conflict, occupation and domination, and persecution have left Croatians with low self-esteem. Locals readily admit their victim complex, but are desperate for tourists to experience the warmth of their welcome. There are many parallels with a city like Belfast - Irish and Croatian football fans, I'm told, get on famously when their teams play.

Don't come here expecting Prague. The hangover from war persists. Anti-Serbian graffiti is rife. There's still a heavy police presence (albeit the kind of policemen who lean up against walls and chainsmoke). And restaurants still feel the need to paste "No guns" notices to their doors.

But Zagreb somehow manages to combine the restlessness of a cosmopolitan city in permanent transition with the intimacy of well-manicured boulevards, concealed courtyards and steep cobbled streets, where Communist-made Yugos bounce up and down with little or no suspension.

Where to stay
 

Ilica, (Ilica, +377 7622/377 7522, hotel-ilica.hr). Small but value for money rooms with a location just west of the city centre. From 349kn.

Central (Branimirova, +484 1122, hotel-central.hr). Where I stayed during my visit. Rooms are small and heavily scented, but recently refurbished and perfectly adequate. Central, facing the train station with a good view of the steam engine that pulled Tito's funeral carriage (he was born just outside Zagreb). Room rates start at 400kn.

Dubrovnik (Ljudevita Gaja, +487 3555, tel.hr/hotel-dubrovnik). Built in 1929, but fronted by a modern glass tower. It looks out on to Trg Jelacica with its buzzing cafe scene. Recently renovated. Single rooms start at 500kn.

Jagerhorn (Ilica, +483 3877). Cosy, 13-room courtyard hotel just 100m west of the Trg Jelacica. Books up quickly. Prices begin at 550kn.

Where to eat
 

Baltazar (Nova Ves 4, +466 6824, morsko-prase.hr/baltazar/baltazar.htm). High-end, traditional north Croatian dining (grilled meats, breads and salads) just five minutes' walk from the cathedral. 55-125kn.

Atlanta (Tkalciceva, +481 3848). At the quieter end of Tkalciceva and well suited to romantic dinners. 30-80kn for a main dish.

Paviljon (Trg kralja Tomislava, +481 3066). Mix of Italian and seafood offerings in elegant surroundings next to the city's art gallery. 65-125kn.

Antica (Kaptol, +481 2187). New seafood restaurant with an Adriatic flavour and a small but cosy dining room tht is yet to make it into the guidebooks. 30-55kn.

Where to drink
 

Boban (Ljudevita Gaja, +481 1549, asker.com/boban). Owned by the footballer Zvonimir Boban, who achieved cult status among locals during a match in 1990 when he laid into a couple of policemen (the police were widely believed to be under Serbian influence). Italian restaurant in the basement.

Oliver Twist (Tkalciceva, +481 2206). Tkalciceva is at the centre of Zagreb's nightlife, and Oliver Twist's outdoor seating and jukebox are popular with locals and tourists alike.

Bulldog (Bogoviceva, +481 7393). An expat hangout, this pub-cum-cafe-cum-bar with its labyrinth of rooms and levels is usually jammed with beer drinkers.

Godot (Savska, +484 3477). Close to the student centre, a cosy cafe with an Irish theme - Guinness posters line every crevice.

Where to dance
 

Aquarius (Aleja Mira, +364 0231, aquarius.hr). House and techno club popular during summer months for its outdoor dancing area.This summer, the owners opened a new club on the island of Pag.

Best (Horvaćanski Zavoj, +369 1601, thebest.com.hr). Destination for younger clubbing set, hosting rave-style events and a Teen Dance Party on Sunday evenings.

Sokol (Trg Marsala Tita, +482 8510, sokolklub.hr). More sophisticated venue that attracts an older clientele and occasionally local celebs. Saturday nights include a fashion show.

Where to shop
 

Refreshingly, you'll find all the brands, but (almost) none of the retail chains on Zagreb's main shopping street, Ilicia. But don't expect friendly service. 'Put a Croatian behind a desk and they think they're the president,' grumbles Elvis, a radio journalist from Istria who lives in Zagreb.

Dolac is a huge two-storey outdoor market - a vast vista of vegetables, meat, fish, flowers and dairy produce that is open every day but Sundays.

Where to be learned
 

City Museum (Opaticka, +485 1364). Come here for a potted history of Zagreb told via a warren of documents, artwork, crafts and other historical objects (including, rather bizarrely, a couple of chairs damaged by the rocket attack on Gradec in 1991). The story of the past 50 years is a little selective (where's Tito?).

Mimara Museum (Trg Franklina Roosewelta, +482 8100, mimara.hr). Large and varied collection of artistic treasures from all over the world, with more than 3,750 works spanning three millennia, much of them Christian in theme. No one quite knows how the wealthy businessman Ante Topic Mimara came to amass such an eclectic collection.

Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Zrinjevav, +489 5115). The collection of a fervently pro-Croat bishop who founded the Croatian Academy of Arts and Science. Includes the works of Italian masters from the 14th century, Dutch and Flemish painters from the 19th century, and Croatian artists such as Medulic and Benkovic.

Where to be holy
 

Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja (Kaptol, +481 4727). Seemingly in a permanent state of reconstruction, the cathedral remains a wonder of neo-gothic artistry. Founded more than 1,000 years ago, it has withstood sieges by the Tartars, sweeping fires and even an earthquake.

Kamenita vrata (Kamenita). This archway shrine was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. After fire destroyed much of the town in 1731, legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary was spotted in the ashes. Believers come here to pray and pin up postcards and plaques of thanks for answered prayers.

Crkva sv. Marka (Trg svetog Marka, +485 1611). The Lego-like configuration of colours displayed on St Mark's roof depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arm, and also the Zagreb city emblem. Sits opposite the small but plush Sabor parliament buildings.

Where to hang out
 

Trg bana Jelacica

This Austro-Hungarian-styled square is the centre of the city. Aside from the obligatory panpipers, the square is dominated by a statue of Count Jelacica (19th-century governor of Croatia) on his horse, holding a very pointy sword. In 1947, the statue was dismantled on Tito's orders, but restored to the square in 1990, with the sword pointing towards Belgrade as a sign of defiance. Should you have a rendezvous to keep in the city centre, the clock in the square is the place to do it.

Trg Kralja Tomislava

The first in a set of gardens that form the 'Green Horseshoe', the city engineer Milan Lenuci's U-shaped series of promenades and parks that bend around the city centre. It's a restful urban oasis where old men sit on benches, children chase pigeons, couples walk dogs and lovers smooch behind trees.

Where to escape to
 

Maksimir and the City Zoo (Maksimirirski perivoj). Park Maksimir is a perfect half-day outing - 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest that were opened to the public in 1794 - and the first of its kind in this part of Europe. The City Zoo is an added bonus. Catch tram 11 or 12 from Trg Jelacica east (Dubec) to the Bukovacka stop.

Mirogoj cemetery

As a rule, graveyards don't get much of a mention in city guides, but the flickering candles, ornate stonework, flowers and all kinds of artwork make this cemetery a world-beater. Different religions, languages and cultures get the chance to express themselves within this beautiful tree-lined resting place. The graves of Drazen Petrovic, Franjo Tudman, Petar Preradovic, Ljudevita Gaja and Stjepan Radic are all here. Take bus 106 from the cathedral - it takes 15min and costs 7kn.

Way to go

Getting there: British Airways (0845 7733377, ba.com) and Croatian Airlines (croatianairlines.hr) both operate direct flights from Heathrow to Zagreb. Prices for a BA flight out on a Thursday morning, returning Sunday afternoon start at Ł198. Zagreb's small airport (Pleso) is 8 miles out of town. The bus service from Pleso to the bus station (Autobusni Kolodvor) costs 25kn and takes about 30min. Alternatively you can catch a taxi in front of international arrivals for 150-250kn.

Getting around: Trams run 4am-11.45pm. A 7kn ticket entitles you to 1hrs of travel and can be purchased at the front of the tram or at a kiosk. Children under six go free. Stamp your ticket once you board. Buses work the same way. For information about public transport, contact ZET (Ozaljska, +365 1555).

Further information: Tourist office (+481 4051/481 4056, zagreb-touristinfo.hr) at Trg bana Jelacica.