| 
 Dr. Katheleen Wilkes, distinguished British humanist 
 Darko Žubrinić, 2011Glas iz Dubrovnika / The Voice from Dubrovnik  was a daily leaflet printed just on one A4 leaf (ie. two pages) that  tried to follow the daily life and encourage the citizens of Dubrovnik  to endure the dramatic events during the Serbian - Montenegrin siege of  the City of Dubrovnik. Short articles published in the Voice from  Dubrovnik are important testimonies, and among them especially  interesting are those writen by dr. Kathy (Kathleen) Vaughan Wilkes  from Great Britain. She lectured philosophy at the Inter-University  Centre in Dubrovnik (IUC, since 1980), and at that time she was also the  president of the IUC. The centre has been completely destroyed in 6  December 1991 during the Serbian bombing and shelling of the city, and  its valuable library burned down to ashes. Subsequently Kathy Wilkes  donated several thousand of her books in order to start restoring the  libray of the IUC.
 
 
 Each her article paublished in The Voice of Dubrovnik  appears in two columns, in English and Croatian, on the first page of  the leaflet. The dates above the articles refer to the dates of their  publication. She spent four months in Dubrovnik during the most critical  period of its destruction by the JNA ("Yugoslav People's Army", in fact  Serbian army) forces. The Voice of Dubrovnik was distributed free of  charge, and it existed from 8 November 1991 till 5 March 1992.
 
          Ivan Supek, a founder of the Inter-University Centre (IUC), with dr. Kathy Wilkes in Dubrovnik.   Photo from the hall of the IUC, 1999, by the courtesy of Nada Bruer Ljubišić of the IUC, Dubrovnik.        Kathy Wilkes (1946-2003) has been affectionately nicknamed Kate (ka:te)  by her friends in Croatia. She was proclaimed a honorable citzen of the  City of Dubrovnik in 1993, awarded with the Hrvatska Danica (Croatian  Morning Star) order from the Croatian Government in 1997, and with the  honorary doctorate from the University of Zagreb in 2001. Dr. Wilkes  died prematurely at the age of 57. According to her last wish, her ashes  have been strewn over sea in the City of Dubrovnik.
 
 
 Note that the English name of Glas iz Dubrovnika has been changed from The Voice of Dubrovnik to The Voice from Dubrvonik.  As described below the identity card of dr. Cathy Wilkes, she has been affectionally named Kate (ka:te).              
 
   A front page The Voice From Dubrovnik leaflet, 26. prosinac [December] 1991.,  with English and Croatian columns of the text written by dr. Katheleen V. Wilkes.       A few explanations appearing in angular brackets - [ ] - within the  texts written by dr. Kathy Wilkes have been added by Darko Žubrinić.
 
 Shortenings:
 
 JNA  - Yugoslav People's Army, at the time of destruction of Dubrovnik and  Vukovar without any control of the "Yugoslav government" in Belgrade, in  fact Serbian army. By its military potential it was the third or fourth  in Europe at that time.
 IUC - Inter-University Centre in Dubrovnik
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 9. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 The editors of "Glas iz Dubrovnika" [Voice from Dubrovnik] have invited  me to contribute regularly - daily, or perhaps every other day. I am  honoured to be part of this publication, and will offer you comments  from a "British friend of Dubrovnik".
 
 Over the last few  months I have grown to hate this word "velika" [great] when applied to  countries. Besides, the British Government has been anything but "great"  in EC [European Community] discussions about Croatia; I am deeply  ashamed for my governemnt. (However, I hope that citizens of Dubrovnik  will recognise that the attitude of the British government runs directly  contrary to the desire of the vast majority of the British population,  who cannot understand why Croatia is not recognised as a sovereign state  [Croatia has already been politically recognised in 7th September 1991,  by the Badinter Committee]. It is, obviously, bound to happen sooner or  later... so why not sooner? Everyone is aghast at the way that the  destruction of Croatia meanwhile continues, unchecked by the outside  world).
 
 Another comment suitable for an introductor  contribution arises from talking to, and seing in action, the EC  Monitors; both just recently, and in September/October. Their original  brief was to mediate between two sides, between two arguments. There can  no longer be any question of "two arguments". Indeed, the arrogance of  the aggressor / the arrogance of brute force - is such that what we  used to call the JNA [Yugoslav People's Army, in fact Serbian army]  makes no attempt to explain, let alone to justify, this attack on a city  of joy, of light, of culture. So the EC monitors, if they are to stay  (and in some capacity they are needed) must change their terms of  reference. Right now there is no point in them begin here unless it is  to observe, and protest, the relentless bombing of civilian targets, and  the cynical neglect of ceasefire agreements... which the army exploits  simply to advance a few kilometers further into the city. And then  complain when the Croatian forces try to halt them. The monitors could,  for example, oversee the restoration of water and electricity to the  city - possibly the aggressors might hesitate before bombing EC monitors  directly. They should also register and report the attacks on churches,  hospitals, cemeteries, civilian settlements; and, alomost the most  tragic of all, the bombing of the refugees in the exposed tourist  hotels.
 
 On Wednesday, at an Inter-University Centre  conference on the plight of refugees in Croatia, some participants were  dissatisfied with the extent of the preparation for the defence and  sustenance of the city. But what I have just said goes far to explain  this: who could possibly expect or aniticpate such an all-out attack  upon civilian targets?
 
 This the centre of Europe; this is 1991.
 
 The world has, rightly, not yet forgotten nor forgiven the allied  bombing of Dresden in the Second World War - even though in that war the  Germans were the aggressors. Those of us who used to be optimists had  thought that such atrocities could not happen again, at lest not in  Europe. But now we see a reverse to primitive barbarism.
 
 More comments and impressions soon.
 
 IUC: K.V. Wilkes
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 11. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 I write this on Friday afternoon. Like you all, I hear the bombs falling shaking even the Mayor's office, from where I write.
 
 Not surprisingly, my thoughts this afternoon turn towards what we used  to call the JNA [Yugoslav People's Army, in fact Serbain army]. Three  comments that provoke bitter smiles.
 
 First: did you know  that on 31th July [1991] there was a complaint made against Federal Army  planes for flying low over the city; it was thought vibrations from the  flight might damage the fabric of the city. Vibrations from the flight!
 
 Second: only a very few months ago, when listening to lectures in the  Inter-University Centre, I used to curse the siren-salutes with which  the navy as it passed greeted the great maritime city of Dubrovnik.  Those salutes seriously disrupted the lectures... but now the "salutes"  are of a wholly different order, a gunboat has been bombing Srđ  [imposing hill above the city] today.
 
 Third: I remember  how when I left Dubrovnik in mid-October [1991] on "Slavija" [ferry], a  gunboat stopped us just after we had left Split. It went round and  around the ferry, but always with the cannon pointing at it. Then,  presumably to impress us thoroughly, it went right around the Slavija  backwards (incidently soaking all the sailors on board). This struck me  as a symbol of contemporary Serbia: going backwards while the rest of  Europe goes forwards. And, to judge from the bombing of churches,  hospitals, synagogues, cemeteries, housing settlements, ambulances...  going backwards not just to unreformed communism, but to something less  than human.
 
 As I write, the bombs continue to fall: every  Croatian port is blockaded; the sirens have gone again in Zagreb, as  here. But Serbia is going backwards while Croatia is struggling  forwards; even, today in Dubrovnik - planning concerts, dances, plays,  recitals... keeping the spirit of the city alive.
 
 That is whay in the long run you (can I say "we?") will win; but in how long a run, and at what further cost?
 
 I shall content myself with these brief comments today, because I  expect that the editors will need space for basic information and  advice.
 
 IUC: K.V. Wilkes
 
   Dr. Kathy Wilkes (1946-1956) in Dubrovnik, honorary citzien of the city since 1993.
 She died in Oxford, and according to her last wish, her ashes have been  strewn over see in the City of Dubrovnik. Photo from 1999.
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 12. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 Today I shall remeber that I am by profession a philosopher, and will brood over this word "negotiate".
 
 I have much sympathy for the Dubrovnik who - when they can - travel, at  considerable personal risk, to negotiate with the local [Yugoslav, in  fact Serbian] army commanders. Now "negotiate" is a word that implies  that there are two tenable positions, two arguments, two sides each or  which deserves to be heard. So just what can be the army "case", the  army "argument? How do the army negotiators explain the reason for  depriving the city of food and many of the tourist hotels - refugees in  so many of the tourist hotels - refugees whom they have already bombed  out of their villages? What case an army negotiator have for bombing the  gynaecological ward of the Medical Centre; the Bishop's Palace; for  fire-bombing Lokrum [islet in front Dubrovnik covered with old pine  trees] and the few remaining trees on Srđ [hill above Dubrovnik] ... and  you can all continue the list?
 
 I thus find my  imagination failing me when I try to envisage the course of these  "negotiations"; whether it is the Dubrovnik negotiators attempting to  talk to the army, or the EC monitors. I am baffled by a very simple  question: just what do the army negotiators say?  Yesterday there should have been another meeting of the negotiators.  But the army made it impossible - far too dangerous - to travel, and so  the meeting was cancelled. And yet it was yesterday - Sunday - that,  according to the latest Carrington plan (signed by Government and army)  the army must start pull out of Croatia. Instead, we received 3.000  granades.
 
 This point can be generalized. We have all  grown used the cynical flouting, by the army, of each and every  agreement and cease-fire. Now, apparently, the local commanders are even  disregarding an agreement signed by Kadijević, their  commander-in-chief. But I fear that Kadijević and Milošević will not  complain about this breach of military regulations, this  insubordination. Kadijević and Milošević, after all, have set the  example of ignoring and mocking agreements brokered in the Hague. So  what do, what can, they  say, when challenged by Carrington or other foreign leaders? Again, my  imagination boggles. Talking, even with people as difficult as these  two, is of course better than being forced to fight them; but Dubrovnik -  and the whole of Croatia - is being Hague let Kadijević and Milošević  get away with this. "Negotiate"; a good word, now being cruelly and  cynically abused.
 
 IUC: K.V: Wilkes
 
 Štovani čitatelji!
 
 Ovo su stvarno najgori dani u povijesti Dubrovnika. Naši prevoditelji  već danima ne izlaze iz skloništa, što nam stvara teškoće, pa preostaje  da objavljujemo samo izvorne tekstove. Kada prevoditelji ugledaju  svjetlo dana ugledat će ih i prijevodi.
 
 Vaš novi sugrađanin: prof. Alojzije Prosoli
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 15 studeni [November] 1991.
 
 George Bernard Shaw wrote: "If you are looking for heavn on earth, come and see Dubrovnik".
 
 My friends: you - we - have been going through hell here, especially  over the last few days. It is difficult to see how this nightmare, this  inexplicable and inexcusable asault, could have been worse. And today is  the 44th day of steadily increasing danger, destructions, illnesses,  shortages. Your courage and resilience constantly amaze me. My theme,  today, is the central role of the people: the man and woman in the  street.
 
 But I shall come to that theme circuitously. For a  long time now, and despite repeated disappointments, I have remained  optimistic that the outside world (especially Europe, or the USA) would  eventually offer more than mere words - words deploring the attack upon  this great city. Now, because the Old Citiy itself has been strongly  bombed, I am becoming more hopeful of more solid and constructive  intervention from outside.
 
 It would, though, be bitter  and tragic to discover that it takes an attack upon stones and palaces,  rather than on people's lives, to galvanise into action the world  outside. But if that is the way it has to be - so bi it. The end is so  important that almost any means to it would serve. But it would be an  unpleasant discovery to make about the priorities of world leaders.
 
 The Mayor has today invited Presidents, Prime Ministers and Foreign  Ministers of the EC countries to come to Dubrovnik to see for themselves  the devastation wrought upon this city. He and (indepdendently) the  city's religious leaders have also invited Lord Carrington here. And  further, a letter has been sent out on your behalf, from "citizens of  Dubrovnik", to ordinary citizens in towns and cities throughout Europe.  This letters invite them to demand that their authorities make their  town and cities "twin towns" with Dubrovnik. If Dubrovnik were "twinned"  with a large number of European towns and cities... then perhaps those  citizens, people like yourselves, might prove to have more integrity  than their political masters; and do something constructive to help this  city.
 
 As always, the suffering is borne by the man and  woman in the street; perhaps such people, elsewhere in Europe, will take  some of the responsibility for reconstruction, protection, rebuilding.
 
 IUC K.V. Wilkes
 
 
  Stradun street in Dubrovnik, one of the most beautiful strets in the world,
 after Serbian bombing.
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 18. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 This is my first war (I was born just after the Second World War  [1946]). It is not at all what I expected - and not only because of the  truly astonishing extent of the atttack against purely civilian targets.  I suppose that I had half - expected a war to involve continuous, even  frantic, activity. Well, there is of course some of that; and in fact  activity makes everything easier to bear, even if the achievement brings  no more result thatn spitting into the wind. Hardest to indure is doing  nothing, nothing but listen: listening to the mortars falling,  listening to the stories of those to have lost relatives, neighbours,  their homes, cars, boats. Listening, waiting; that, my friends, demands  all of your courage. A less dramatic kind of courage than that of the  defenders of this city, but a real endurance nontheless.
 
 Quite another sort of courage will be needed afterwards. Several  thousands must return; people must resettle, rebuild, repair. And not  just repair structures and possessions, but also relationships. Whatever  the atrocities perpetrated upon Croatia in general and Dubrovnik in  particular, it is impossible to pick up the country and move it  elsewhere. Serbia and Montenegro will remain neighbours. It will take  every last drop of the internationalism for which Dubrovnik has for so  long been famous, to repair relationship there. But, somehow, it will  have to be done.
 
 Relationships with the rest of Europe,  and with North America, will also need reshaping and rethinking. When  contrasted with the hospitality with which you have welcomed so many  thousands of thousands of them, the inability or unwillingness of the EC  [European Community] and the USA to take any constructive action is  truly shameful. Shameful, too, was the pretence - only quite recently  abandoned - that in this aggression against Croatia both sides were  equally to blame: self - defence equated with attack. But, again,  Dubrovnik needs its tourists; and so bitterness against the world  outside, however understandable, would be counter - productive.
 
 As you can see, I have allowed these two days of relative quiet to  encourage me to play in my imagination with the period "after the war".  Anything is better than the rockets and bombs. But the demands on your  courage and patience will continue long after this is over.
 
 K. V. Wilkes, IUC. 15 November 1991.
 
 
 
 
   Dr. Kathy Wilkes, professor of philosophy at Oxford University and Inter-University Centre in Dubrovnik.  Photo by the courtesy of Nada Bruer Ljubišić of the IUC, Dubrovnik.       GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 23. studeni [November] 1991
 
 My friends: the British media, and letters to the British papers, are  increasingly more and more sympathetic to Croatia, and outraged by the  attacks on Croatia in general and Dubrovnik in particular. But there are  occasional exceptions; and yesterday a friend in London faxed me a copy  of a letter, published in The Times, from Miss Nora Beloff. She has  long been known in Britain as a "Yugoslav expert"; but, I fear, has  spent far more time in Serbia than in Croatia. Her letter infuriated me;  and so I thought that for this day's piece I would give you a copy of  the letter I sent to The Times in reply. (I have adjusted it here and  there, to make it clearer to those who can't have seen Beloff's letter.)
 
 
 Sir,
 I is not easy to get The Times in Dubrovnik and it was only yesterday  that a friend faxed me a page of it containing a letter from Miss Nora  Beloff. She says that 'extremests dedicated to ridding Croatia of Serbs'  are now 'learning the hard way, unfortunately at the expense of all  lovers of Dubrovnik'. I am not; with some honourable exceptions they  have done nothing to express this 'love'. My concern is with those  living here; the 6% of Serbs and the 90% of Croatians. The snipers and  the bombs do not discriminate between them - one of the early deaths  from Serbian cannon was the great Serbian poet Milan Milšić. (Now he was  a real 'lover of Dubrovnik'.) The shortage of food and water does not  discriminate between them either. And Dubrovnk has no minoriy enclaves,  and no history of Serb-Croat violence. One example, of the dozens  available, would show better the virulence of the attack on everyone  living here - regardless of race or raligion - than any list of blasted  hospitals, ambulances, monasteries. 13000 refugees were bombed in to the  city from the surrounding region. Almost 9000 of them have been  sheltering in the formerly-tourist hotels. Who knows or cares whether  they are Serb or Croat? Not the bombs. They have been shelled again,  again, and again. They live, or try to live, behind the flying glass of  large picture-windows; and have nowhere else to flee. Miss Beloff is  right to say that flags and emblems identify this city as Croatian. It  is, after all, Croatian. And it is as well a fully international city.  The point is, Miss Belfof, that Croatia is indeed a dangerous animal:  when attacked, it defends itself.
 
 Yours sincerely,
 dr. K. V. Wilkes
 
 K. V. Wilkes, IUC
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 24. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 In my last piece for Glasnik iz Dubrovnik [The Voice from Dubrovnik], I  was writing about the eventual need for reconciliation. Today I wasn't  to do something almost diametrically opposed to that: to give, in  descending order, to list of the contemptible.
 
 Head of my  list must come the snipers. It is impossible to imagine anything more  cowardly, more alien to all that makes the human spirit human. Snipers  are not 'animals'; that would be grossly unfair to animals. Shooting at  random at civilians in the streets.... this sickens the soul.
 
 Nex come the looters. These are the leeches of the community;  exploiting loss and misery. From those who already have their homes and  possessions devastated they steal what little is left. Again, less than  human.
 
 Next: those who give the orders to bomb churches,  hospitals, monasteries, ambulances, the fire station, the hydroelectric  plant, so much civilian housing - all that is essential for civilian  life. It is a long time, in the history of European warfare, that the  civilian infrastructure has been this singled-out for attack.
 
 Fourth, of course, those who carry out those orders. What goes through  their minds, when they obey an order (heard, and taped, by radio  amateurs) to "shoot the churches"? Admittedly, it takes a special kind  of the courage to refuse an order from a commanding officer, and back in  July General Adžić said in a speech that those who refuse to fight  "must be shot without mercy and without regret". But the defence that he  was "obeying orders" did not help Lieutenant Calley in the Vietnam War;  one of my uncles was court-martialled and imprisoned during the Second  World War, for refusing to fire on a village which he thought was  defenceless.
 
 Fifth: those Serb and Montenegrin civilians  who lie low and say nathing; who are not rasing their voices in  horrified protest against what their leaders and army are doing to  Croatia. Increasingly, braver Serbs and Montenegrans are speaking out,  but not yet enough; it does not, after all, take much courage.
 
 And finally, politicians in the world beyond; who for far too long have  merey said "tut, tut"; who have talked of sanctions "against  Yugoslavia"; who throw words at Croatia when food, water, itervention  are what are needed. Have I left out anyone?
 
 K.V.Wilkes, IUC
 
 
  The map of Serbian bombing raids on Dubrovnik in 1991
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 25. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 Dubrovnik: city of contrasts and paradoxes. A city of light and of sun,  movement and colour; now black or dark gray at night, motionless after  9.00 p.m. A city of famous fountains, starved of water. A city that has  for centuries been a centre of culture and international civilization,  now rarely able even to telephone. A theatre for the world, now a  theatre of war. A city trying to shelter thousands of refugees, but  seeeing almost the same number leaving to shelter elsewhere. A route  between Dubrovnik and Rijeka... via Zelenika. A city "protected" by the  Hague Convention Spomenik Kulture flags [flags of the Munuments of  Culture], one of which has a bomb-blast through the exact centre. An  international and unviersial city, assalted viciously by its immediate  neighbours. With no history of ethnic violence, but now right in the  middle of an ethnic assault. A commune with no military installations  treated as though it were an army camp. Relief ships that bring food for  the children, the sick, and the elderly... and taking away to elsewhere  same people. The navy, "greeting" the city with bombs and blokades,  when it used to salute it with sirens. A maritime city, prevented even  from sending fishing-boats out. Self-defence treated by a large part of  the international community as though it were on a par with aggression. A  city of gold adn lead.
 
 K.V. Wilkes
 
 
   City bell-tower in Dubrovnik, on the main street of Stradun, a monumnet of culture,  shot in 1991 during the Serbian agression on Croatia.       
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 30. studeni [November] 1991.
 
 On 29th (day 59) [day 59 of the Serbain and Montenegrin siege of the  City] we saw three bright UNESCO flags flying above the Old City: blue,  like Dubrovnik's sea and sky, and white, like its stones. Many will be  asking whether they will give greater protection than the "Spomenik  kulture" flag [Monument of culture flag] of the Hague Convention. These  often seemed to provide targets for the army rather than defence from  it; I mentioned, in an earlier piece, the "Spomenik kulture" flag in  Rijeka dubrovačka with a rocket hole in its exact centre.
 
 Well: UNESCO is UNESCO. It should take an even greater degree of  barbarity, contempt for world opinion, and recklessness about the  likelihood of international intervention, to fire on places thus  protected than on buildings and monuments protected by the flag of the  Hague Convention. Yugoslavia (as it then was) signed the UNESCO  "Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural  Heritage". The convention has a "World Heritage Committee", which draws  up a list of sites and monuments (selected from those proposed for  inclusion by member countries), choosing those which it considers part  of the world's natural and cultural heritage. Sites and monuments thus  included are - I quote from the introduction to UNESCO's 1982  [misprinted 1992] desk diary - "considered to be of such exceptional  interest and universal value that their protection is the reponsibility  of all mankind"; and "on signing the Convention each country pledges to  conserve the sites and monuments" (are you listening, Belgrade? You  proposed Dubrovnik for inclusion). "In return the international  community helps them protect these marvels".
 
 Simply being  on UNESCO's list, though, has not helped Dubrovnik so far; nor Split,  nor Plitivce [lakes] (also listed). But perhaps the flags, and the  presence of two UNESCO representatives, who will report daily to the  Paris headquarters and who, before they leave, will set up a permanent  office here, might bring home to the aggressors the mindless barbarity  of what they have already done. It was splended to hear, at the press  conference, that the concern of the UNESCO pair is not only with  Dubrovnik's heritage itself, but also with those who preserve, inhabit,  and continue this living heritage. Thus the whole city, not just the Old  City, has become UNESCO's concern.
 
 Many have asked why  UNESCO (and other international organizations) were not here far, far  sooner. We heard much of the reason at the press conference: this is the  VERY FIRST TIME tha UNESCO has ever sent a mission to a region in a  state of war. Such a major switch of policy cannot be made overnight;  bureaucracy, and especialy international bureaucracy, always works  slowly.
 
 Internation action more generally is lumbering  around, steadily, to understanding the reality of the situation. (A I  was typing this, of Friday morning, the text of a UN Security Council  Resoluton came over the fax; the contents of the Resolution are  promising.) And it is starting to understand not only the threat to  Dubrovnik; even though the fame of Dubrovnik may have made more vivid,  to the outside world, the agony of the Croatia to which it belongs.
 
 K.V. Wilkes
 
 
  Konvoj Libertas
 
    
    
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 4. prosinac [December] 1991.
 
 There is a proposal - and I do not know at the moment what will become  of it - to send some of Dubrovnik's museum pieces (roughly, objects of  art that are portable) on an exhbition-tour of some European countries;  most likely, Italy, Britain, France. Along with such tersures would go  an exhibition of Dubrovnik's war; pieces of rocket and mortar, bits of  shattered stone, videos of the bombing, and the photographic record of  the destruction. The exhibition would be called "Dubrovnik: city of Gold  and of Lead".
 
 Many popele, I gather, are understandably  upset, or at least feel ambivalent, about this idea. They know how much  Dubrovnik has ALREADY lost; must it also lose, even temporarily, some of  the art treasures that belong to its heritage? It is bad engough to  lose so many people (and, to speak only for myself, I was grieved to  hear those organizing the "humanitarian corridor" publicly ENCOURAGING  more women, children, and the elderly to leave); is Dubrovnik also to be  stripped of much of its artistic, as well as its human, richness?
 
 However, I suggest that this is a time to think positively and  practically. Practically: these objects would be safe, protected. We  have all heard how the army sweeps through towns and villages like  locusts, devouring and looting anything they can carry or put in their  lorries. Heaven alone knows how much of its heritage Croatia has already  had stolen-away from it, burned, or bombed to destruction. The day  before I wrote this (I do not know when, or if, this will be published)  was the day the army was trying to destroy the cross at the top of [the  hill of] Srđ; that shows better than anything the army attitude towards  objects that have religious aesthetic, cultural, or historical  importance.
 
 Positively: such an exhibition would give  those who saw it a double shock. First, the shock of seeing the grandeur  and the beauty of the artefacts that have come from the City of  Dubrovnik. Second, the shock of seeing the evidence of the brutality of  that attack.
 
 Nobody, I imagine, would object to a  travelling exhibition which both celebrated the glories of Dubrvonik and  drew attention of its destruction - IF we were at peace. After all, I  suppose that everyone was proud to see that magnificent exhibition, "The  Golden Age of Dubrovnik" travel outside the city. It is the loss of yet  another strand in the web of Dubrovnik's identity just NOW: it is that  which hurts.
 
 Well: it may never heppen. But believe me, my friends, I sympthise most fully with your unhappiness about the idea.
 
 K.V. Wilkes, IUC, 3. XII. 1991.
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE OF DUBROVNIK
 5. prosinac [December] 1991.
 
 Let us have, for a change, a piece that has NOTHING to do with our crisis situation.
 
 I am trying to learn Croatian, Your langague is not easy, my firneds; I  have been trying, on and off, for quite a while now. Moreover, my  memory would make a sieve, by comparison, seem like a watertight  container. How much easier it was to learn languages when young! The  Latin, Greek and (little) French which I learned at school are with me  still - the Greek the best, since I have to use in my work.
 
 One problem for my attempts to learn Croaian is the Inter-University  Centre itself, where (until recently) I spend practically all my time  when in Dubrovnik. Almost everyone in the Secretariat seems to have  fluent English, not to mention French, German or Italian. So, when  working at the IUC, there is rarely any need to try to speak Croatian;  all that is needed is the very basic linguistic equipment required fro  shopping, travelling, etc. Another problem is that I am lazy.
 
 But ah, the shame of it! I say, truthfully, that I have been coming  here for twelve years now. So there is really no excuse. And, because of  twelve years I have made many good friends, I get invited to their  homes... and there meet their parents or children, or their friends, who  perhaps do not speak English; and all I have is baby-talk. There is  also the absurdity of asking "gdje?" [where?], or "zašto?" [why?], and  not understanding the answer.
 
 It is a pitty, though,  that the recent increments to my vocabulary have been such words as  "rat" [war] , "žbuka" [mortar], "raketa" [rocket], "snajper" [sniper],  "rana" [wound], "bombardirti" [to bomb], "sklonište" [shelter],  "blokada" [blockade], "napad" [attack]. (You see now, even in this  piece, the war creeps back into the subject?) Next time you see me,  speak to me SLOWLY, in simple Croatian; and be prepared to switch to  English. I'll get there somehow, eventually.
 
 K.V. Wilkes, IUC
 
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE FROM DUBROVNIK
 7. prosinac [December] 1991.
 
 
                                              | Listen to us ...
 
 We appeal to all good people of the world, all good people of Croatia,  Italy, France, the whole Europe, to all the sea captains, This is your  moment. Dubrovnik needs help. Turn your ships and start towards  Dubrovnik, Don't let the criminals to stop you, Ignore them.
 
 All the people who trust in Red Cross start for Dubrovnik because they  [Serbain army] demolished International Red Cross headquarters; to you  who trust in the idea of water becasue the oldest well in Europe is  destroyed; to you who trust in health becuse the pharmacy is pulled  down. To all who have any faith or religion, who are Orthodox, Catholic,  Moslems, Jews start towards Dubrovnik. Oppose to the monster which has  never been seen yet. Ignore that proper tiger, that monster of evil  which does not deserve to exist.
 
 All of you who are  the soldiers of the monster say that you are never again ready to work  for the curse, that you will never listen to the unhuman. Dubrovnik  sends you Gundulić's  message of freedom, offers you the last chance. Run away from the  criminals, from those who, even today after they did this to Dubrovnik,  they tell they did not know. Reject the Nazi successors, reject those  who set Dubrovnik aflame like the ovens of Auschwity, who burn the  citizens of Dubrovnik like those in concentration camps in Germany.  Reject Hitler's successors. Tell them - enought, and tell them - NE!
 
 Dr. Slobodan Lang
 
 | Listen to us ...
 
 Serbia will never recover from this.
 Croatia - Dubrovnik - will take a very long time to recover, but  recover they will. Serbia, however, has an indelible stain on its flag,  its honour. This culmination of its attack on Croatia will go down in  history as a crime with few parallels; Serbia has been accused, tried,  and found guilty by every democratic country in the world. The sentence  should be heavy: war reparations on a massive scale, trials for war  crimes.
 
 Nor should the wider world quickly forget  its shame. It is reacting now; but too late; too late to do more than  help to pick up the pieces. What it MUST do, now that International  outrage will compel action, is to come with force, come with relief,  come with funds. Later it must enforce war reparations upon Serbia, and  bring before an international court those accused of war crimes.
 
 What Serbians must do - the only thing they CAN do, to retrieve a  fraction of their integrity - or to rise up in fury to overthrow the  government that perpetrated such criminal acts in their name.
 
 Did it take attacks upon the buildings and monuments of the Old City,  rather than the devastation in Mokošica, Župa Dubrovačka, Gruž, Lapad -  not to mention Dubrovnik, Osijek, and so very many more - to awaken  world reaction? Yes my friends, I fear it did.
 
 I  must now sign this from the Skupština Općine; what remains of the  Inter-University Centre is now a shell, still burning as I write this on  the morning 7th November [1991, see below]. But, like a phoenix, the  IUC will rise again. Along with the City of Dubrovnik.
 
 K.V. Wilkes, Skupština općine [Municipality council]
 |  BLACK FRIDAY [6 December 1991]
 
 The balance of the black friday: 19 dead and 60 wounded, mostly  civilians - according to uncompleted facts. How many houses are pulled  down o rburnt, how many destroyed or damaged cultural monumnets - these  are all the facts to be seen yet. At the moment, we can only say for  sure the picture of destroyed city is frightening.
 
 
   
 Barbarian rhapsody
 
 (from the presentation by prof.dr. Enver Sehovic, University of Zagreb)
 
 
        1991 Greter Serbian bombing and shelling of Dubrovnik 
 A  missile shot in December 6 1991 to the convent of Minor Brothers in  Dubrovnik. This convent only was hit with 50 (fifty) direct granade hits  during the Serbain agression, causing a lots of damage on this top  monument of Croatian culture. The hall hit by the granade is precisely  the place where the oldest European pharmacy working continuously to  these days was founded in 1317. 
 
 Old buildings on Stradun (central street) in flame, after savage Serbian bombing and shelling. Date 6 Dec 1991.
  Stradun, the central street in Dubrovnik. The City is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage. The above two photos by Milo Kovač.        Inter-University Center in Dubrovnik after Serbian bombing in 6 December 1991.
 Its very valuable library was set afflame and dissappeared in ashes.
 Dr. Wilkes donated several thousads of books from her own library in Oxford, to start the new library.
 
 
 GLAS IZ DUBROVNIKA / THE VOICE FROM DUBROVNIK
 10. prosinac [December] 1991.
 
 The little things, the things that don't hit the headlines. People as  they stand talking, frequently putting thumbs in wastbands to hitch up  trousers and skirts that have become too big. The delight with which we  sometimes hear water gurgling, brifely, into the system. The  astonishement of friends in Zagreb to hear that one CAN wash, all over,  in half a litre of cold water, in December. The music [of Serbian  aggression] from Žarkovitsa. The names of the two American senators who  have been most helpful: Gore and Dole. People who have finished their  last candle going to bed at 4.30 p.m. Hearing that the Serbian media had  reported that CROATIAN forces had bombed Dubrovnik (with rockets from  the sea, and wire guided missiles?) A map of Europe on the wall of a  flat that was bombed... the map intact except for a hole where the city  of Dubrovnik used to be. The control at Zelenica stealing gas cylinders  sent to Dubrovnik from Rijeka and Split, and then to people in Cavtat  and Mokošica. People wearing thick coats indoors. The surprise of a  freign journalist when nobody in the Skupština Općine jumped around in  excitement, or even interrupted their conversations, when shooting and  bombing started again on devastated [hill of] Srđ. Driving along  Stradun; driving with no lights at night; driving the wrong way up one  way streets. The smell of burning cofee warehouse in Gruž [Dubrovnik  port]. The bruises from tripping over, or bumping into, things in the  dark. The population distribution in the city giving a new meaning to  the phrase of male domination. The Old City at night - black,  motionless. The small children with grey hair after two and a half  months in shelters in Vukovar but no, no; that is a BIG thing. So is the recrucified Christ on the crucifix from Mokošica.
 
 Personally? Wondering whether I shall ever want to eat spaghetti again,  after the war. Discovering how much better that spaghetti tastes than  the inapppropriately rich meals on occasional visits to hotel Argentina.  Finding myself saying something favourable about Mrs. Thatcher.  Learning to drink tea and coffee even if sugared. Learning the real  meaning of friendship.
 
 K.V. Wilkes, IUC 4. XII 1991. g.
 
 
 
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