CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL
GRAPES
Adam S. Eterovich
Croatians
have had wineries and vineyards in California since the 1850’s. The first
winery in Nevada was organized by the Milatovich Clan prior to 1900. The
contribution of Croatians was from the 6000 acre Divisich table grape empire in
the San Joaquin Valley to the prize winning Mike Grgich wines of the Napa
Valley in California. Croatians brought their wine growing expertise from
Dalmatia on the shores of the Adriatic Sea to shores of the Pacific Ocean in California.
Zinfandel grapes have been discussed in California by Croatian Americans long
before the American experts entered the picture. Mike Grgich should be given
the scientific credit for its discovery and origin in Dalmatia thru his
expertise as a professional vineyardist.
How Zinfandel Came to California
In
California, the arrival of Zinfandel vines in the mid-19th century was
attributed for many years to Count Agoston Haraszthy of Hungary. In the time of
Haraszthy, Dalmatia, Croatia was a part of the Kingdom of Hungary. It is entirely possible that Haraszthy
brought Zinfandel vines to California in 1861, although he was not the first to
bring them to America, since the grape had already been identified on the East
Coast decades earlier as coming via Vienna in Austria. Others attribute Italian
Monks bringing it to Italy, then to America. The probability is that Haraszthy
or Dalmatian, Croatians brought it in their ships that came to California
during the Gold Rush.
Agoston Haraszthy-Father of California
Wine
In
the 1850s Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian nobleman, arrived in Sonoma with
cuttings of the Muscat Alexandria grape, which he planted at Buena Vista,
outside Sonoma, the first large vineyard in California. The wine industry,
which had been centered in Southern California, soon was thriving in the north,
thanks to the innovation of Haraszthy and the hundreds of cuttings he
introduced from Europe.
Croatian Mother of California Wine
In
1861 Haraszthy traveled to his homeland, Hungary, and other parts of Europe and
collected vines and trees for planting in California. His collection was
published by the State of California as a Catalogue of Vines and Trees.
Croatia
was a part of Austria and Hungary at that time. All cuttings were listed as
Hungary with a few from Illyria; others were listed by country. He was
proclaimed The Father of California Wine. Agoston Haraszthy was born on August
30, 1812 at Futok, Backa, Vojvodina to a noble family.
Vojvodina
is not in Hungary, it was a part of Austria and was ancient Croatian territory.
In 1834 he married a noblewoman, Eleonora Dedinsky, from Dedina. The Dedinsky
coat of arms is registered as Croatian arms and her grandparents, Cupor, are
also Croatian nobility. The Cupor arms have the Croatian checker in its shield.
The Haraszthy and Dedinsky arms are similar in design indicating relationship.
A genealogy of Haraszathy shows related families of Horvat, Balasovich,
Kubovich, Burian, Halas; all found today in Croatia.
California Gold Croatian Wine
At
the same time Haraszathy was in Europe, August Senoa, a famous Croatian writer,
published “California Gold Croatian Wine” in the Zagreb Times Newspaper in
Zagreb, Croatia in 1862.
CALIFORNIA GOLD CROATIAN WINE
August
Senoa
God
has blessed California with gold;
Gold
has exalted the land far and wide;
Its
rivers and brooks roll treasures untold,
Its
rocks conceal gold veins in their inside.
But
from whatever you have had you fill
You
no more derive any joyous thrill.
When
it is far, however, what a change!
The
gold that leaves its native land, and sails
The
ocean to Europe- is it not strange?
May
a fine day roll on Austrian rails.
Well,
Austrian? Gold? But where is it? Where?
My
brothers, in museums. Look it up there.
And
we, the gentle souls, think it meet
To
be content with a sheer paper sheet.
The
country of Croatia overflows with wine,
Its
drops more precious than gold, crystally clear:
God
Himself has consecrated our vine,
Its
fame expanding world-wide, far and near,
One
cannot be a prophet in his land,
Sometimes
we may not drink as manners demand.
When
far and away, however- what a change!
Whenever
leaving your home for some time,
You
prize Croatian wine- is it not strange?
You
miss it under a foreign clime.
And
while I drink that wishy-washy beer,
I
often brush away a painful tear.
Then
I remember you, my charming home,
Your
fiery wine, opulent, flavorsome,
With
life in it and real love beside,
With
heaven in it and thunderous song.
With
olden glory and national pride,
With
courage and concept lucid and strong;
Sure
cure for old age, bright sunshine for youth,
Proof
our hospitality tells the truth.
And
you, my brothers in Croatian parts,
Keep
on dancing, sing from you fullest hearts;
Our
wince is foaming, see it sparkle, my dear,
Let
jokes be cut- let everybody cheer,
Propose
a toast to too many a son
Who
lacks our wine beneath a foreign sun:
Drink
moderately to keep yourselves alert
Let
enemies should plan an assault;
Drink
boldly to be able to avert
From
new-glory-bearing vines any fault;
Drink
modestly this divine, fierce gift;
Drink
wisely, Mirza teaches, foster thrift.
Zagreb
Times Newspaper 1862 Croatia
Mysterious Origin of Zinfandel Grape
By
Mike Grgich of Grgich Hills Winery
My
family owned a small vineyard and winery in Desne, Dalmatia, Croatia where I
was born. It was my duty as part of the family to take care of the vineyard and
winery every year. Our vineyard was a mixture of many varietals of grapes and I
could remember and recognize each varietal by heart. One of those grape
varietals was Plavac Mali.
In
August, 1959, 1 arrived in Napa Valley to work at Souverain Cellars &
Vineyard. They had Zinfandel grapes around the winery and I remember looking at
those vines and feeling like I had come home to the same grapevines I had left
behind in Croatia. The canes, leaves, clusters, berries, color and size of the
berries were all familiar to me ... they looked like Plavac Mali in Croatia.
As
time passed, several articles mentioned the similarity of Zinfandel and Plavac
Mali. Dr. Jerry Seps of Storybook Mountain Winery in Napa Valley visited
Croatia and he wrote a very promising article about finding the origin of
Zinfandel. Dr. Olmo, of the University of California, Davis, got samples of
Plavac Mali from Croatia but did not agree that they were the same as
Zinfandel.
It
was at a Zinfandel symposium at Sutter Home Winery in St. Helena where I heard
a discussion on how Zinfandel got to America. There were many versions and
guesses. One lady claimed that Zinfandel was taken from the nurseries in Austria
(Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at that time) and brought to
Long Island about 1830 by Gibbs and then taken to California where it was
introduced to Napa and Sonoma counties by Osborn & Boggs Nursery. Another
person was guessing that Count Agoston Haraszthy brought Zinfandel from Europe.
In
1990 I visited Croatia for the first time since 1954 and noticed again the
similarity of Plavac Mali and Zinfandel. I was convinced at that time that they
were the same grape. On my next trip to Croatia in August, 1993, 1 brought with
me clusters, leaves, and canes from Napa Valley Zinfandel and again compared
them to Plavac Mali. I could see only similarities! On that trip I obtained the
book written by Dr. Peter Males describing different clones of Plavac Mali
entitled "Zinfandel, Primitivo, and Plavac Mali." In his opinion,
they were the same variety.
One
day in 1998 1 called Dr. Carol Meredith of the University of California, Davis
and asked her to come to my home in Yountville where I showed her the book by
Dr. Males and I translated it for her into English. She was very interested and
decided to go to Croatia and see for herself if she could solve the puzzle of
the origin of Zinfandel. In 1998 she went to Croatia and upon seeing a vineyard
of Plavac Mali said, "My goodness, lots of Zinfandel here!" For one
week she took samples of about 150 vines, mostly from the section Peninsula
Pe1jesac and the island Hvar. When she came back to Davis and analyzed the
samples none of them proved to be the real Zinfandel but rather relatives of
Zinfandel.
The
territory that Dr. Meredith did not cover was left to Professor Peich and
Professor Edi Maletich from the University of Zagreb to search for the origin
of Zinfandel. The miracle happened on September 7, 2000 near Split in Kastel
Novi when they discovered a very old vine that proved to be identical to our
Zinfandel in California. Of course, further studies are continuing to find more
vines and trace their history. Dr. Carol Meredith was kind and analyzed the
leaves of the Croatian Zinfandel by eight different tests and all proved that
it was the same as that found in California.
Mr.
Terry Robards wrote an article in the August, 1996 edition of Wine Enthusiast magazine recalling his visit to
Croatia explaining and elaborating on Plavic Mali and wines produced from
Plavac Mali.
The
conclusion of the debate is that the origin of California Zinfandel has been
found
in Croatia.
Note:
Zinfandel is the Croatian grape, crljenak kastelanski, a relative of Plavac Mali. This is in the Kastela District near
Split, Dalmatia, Croatia. This grape is also found on the Islands of Solta and
Brac just off the mainland of Split. Many people from this area were in
California during the Gold Rush. The oldest Croatian Society in America was
organized in San Francisco, California in 1857. Croatians had vineyards in
California in the 1850’s.
Mateo
Arnerich was born on the island of Brac, Dalmatia, Croatia. He came from China to San Francisco in 1849.
From 1849 to 1852 Mateo mined for gold in the Calaveras. In 1852 Mr. Arnerich
came to the Santa Clara Valley and soon after became interested in agriculture.
In May, 1856, he was united in marriage with Mrs. Elizabeth (Brown) Moylan. A vineyard of sixty acres furnishes a
general variety of wine and table grapes. In the orchard can be found olive,
fig, pomegranate, orange, and lemon trees.
(Foote 1888)