WINE IN CROATIA
Wine
is not only an export product from Croatia. Cultivating and drinking wine is a
tradition deeply embedded in the roots of Croatian culture. Numerous holidays,
feasts, traditions and a vast lore have developed around the appreciation of
wine in Croatia. Just as there are distinct regions and differences in Croatian
soil, there are numerous regional and local differences among Croatian habits
and lifestyles; however, Croatians are united by a common ethnicity, language,
culture, customs, and the cultivation and love of wine. Whether the vineyard
soil is fertile (as is in Slavonia) or dry and sparse (as in Dalmatia),
cultivation of wine is a laborious occupation, requiring much attention and
love, and causing all wine cultivators to become one with their vinevards.
Traditions
In
all parts of Croatia where grapes would grow, peasant families aspired to own
their own vineyards. Domestic use was the main reason for wine cultivation, as
wine was a perfect companion for various celebrations, including the religious,
given wine's liturgical connotations. Also, many self sufficient peasant
families cultivated wine for sale since it was a reliable source of income.
Another reason for wine cultivation, not as crucial, but equally important, was
as an opportunity to socialize. Certain stages in wine production required as
many hands as were available, allowing people to retain a strong sense of
community as well as providing an opportunity for a social gathering and
feasting. Over centuries, various traditions associated with wine cultivation
evolved from these social gatherings.
The
most important tradition is the feast of Martinje, during which peasants
celebrate "the baptism of grape juice into young wine," a comical
mimicking of the church baptism. This feast is celebrated on Saint Martin’s day
in rural parts of the Slavonia region. In the seasonal cycle, St. Martin's day,
November 11, falls approximately at the time of the year when peasants complete
their work in the field and begin preparations for winter. In wine cultivation,
this is a transition between grape picking and letting wine age in cellars.
Thus, by "baptising" grape juice peasants complete and. commemorate
the end of one labor season.
Besides
Martinje, numerous local customs, also associated with various saints' days,
developed in different regions, and many of these customs are still celebrated
to this day. Although specific observations and rituals varied, their common
ground was the superstitious belief that if the grapevines were blessed during
the resting winter months, they would bear better fruit in the spring.
Another
indication that feasting and celebrating have been a prominent part of the
Croatian folk culture was the emergence of special regulations outlining
appropriate feast behavior called Krizevacki statuti. Krizevcacki statuti, a
code of rules associated with Martinje as well as other celebrations, have
existed in oral tradition since at least the 14th century.
According
to the legend, travelers in Croatia would occasionally abuse Croatian
hospitality and engage in inappropriate behavior during feasts. Thus, in order
to prevent such disruptions and to ensure the most enjoyable festivities,
peasants established these rules of etiquette and protocol.
Although
the majority of feasts were held in villages, some were held in special small
sheds located outside villages in the vineyards. These small sheds -- in
Zagorje called klijeti, in Dalmatia called konobe -- were used as a storage
place for equipment, a resting place during the work day, and shelter from
storms, but primarily as wine cellars. Some say that these peasant sheds were
forerunners of present day weekend villas, since peasants would use the sheds
to feast, relax, and socialize, while drinking home-made wine. Regardless for
what reason individual families utilized their klijet it was an important
addition to living and working space for a peasant family. In the traditional
Croatian culture, there were three distinct layers of culture centered around
klijeti - aristocracy, bourgeois, peasants. While peasants toiled, the rich
gathered in k1ijeti which served as salons to engage in various discussions,
listen to music, and stage theater performances, all accompanied by wine.
Wine Growing
Then
in the 1900’s, as the peasant culture continued to diminish, the city dwellers'
interest in it began to grow. In their escape from the city atmosphere, they
began to engage 'in "recreational"' wine growing -- buying small
vineyards, and transforming klijeti into weekend houses.
In
the coastal part of Croatia, similar traditions surrounding wine making
evolved, but due to different geographical conditions slight differences arose.
Konoba, small stone shacks, were also built in the vinevards to serve as
shelter, resting place from work and the hot Mediterranean midday sun, and as a
wine cellar. People would also gather to feast and drink, but there the wine
would be accompanied with fresh fish grilled in the konoba.
During
the second half of the 19th century, most Dalmatians were farmers, although the
soil from which they lived was of the poorest quality. Unlike other rural areas
where farmers cultivate a variety of products, the Dalmatian soil was so poor
that grapevines were one of the rare vegetation which could be cultivated.
Thus, the Dalmatian peasants' source of survival were their vineyards. In the
1800s, 80 percent of the Dalmatian population lived off vineyards, and mostly
prospered - the wine they produced was of high quality and sold well. However,
in 1889 several epidemics afflicted the vineyards, ravaging Dalmatian vineyards
for the next decade and causing extreme poverty. Many peasants were forced to
seek life elsewhere, and many emigrated to foreign countries, including
America, particularly California, probably since the climate resembled the
Dalmatian climate.
Croatian Regions and
Their Wines
Due
to different climate and terrain conditions in different regions of Croatia,
each region produces unique wines. The four main regions with substantial wine
production are Dalmatia, Slavonia, Zagorje, and Istria.
In Dalmatia, the island of Brac is known for its mali plavac vineyards. On the island of
Hvar, the winery is situated in the midst of the wine growing district, famous
for its white wine sorts. Some of the wines from Hvar include authentic
Croatian wines, such as the white wines Bodganusa and Prc, and the redwine
Darnekusa. A well known wine from the island of Korcula is the white wine Grk,
made from autochthonous wine sort. The Pe1jesac peninsula is famous throughout
Croatia for its cultivation of the high quality red wines Dingac and Postup,
while its white wines Posip, Marastina, and Rukatac are gaining in popularity.
The city of Dubrovnik is not only famous for its beauty, but also for its white
wine Dubrovacka Malvasija, which was the first wine mentioned in Croatian
written documents.
In Slavonia, unlike Dalmatian wines, cultivated in
arid soil under the burning Mediterranean sun, Slavonian wines flourish in
fertile soil and the continental climate. "Mladina" old wine cellar's
Plesivicki burgundac bijeli, a top quality white wine with protected
geographical origin, is dry or semi-dry and golden in color. The area around
the town of Dakovo is famous for its national costumes, culinary specialties
and excellent white wines, to name a few: Mandicevacka Grasevina, Mandicevacki
Burgundac Bijeli, and Trnavacki Traminac, which is of protected geographical
origin. Also, wine cellars in the town of Kutina, which were founded in 1232 by
the Cisterian monks, produce top quality wines.
In Medjimurje, the most northern region of Croatia,
wine growing is also an integral part of life. In this region, one comes across
many klijeti. Varazdinec, a high quality
wine made from a blend of wine sorts with protected geographical origins, is
produced in Varazdin's winery.
In Istria, soil differences between the
continental region and the coastal line of the peninsula allow for the
cultivation of numerous types of grapes, producing wines of distinct aroma and
taste. Some high quality wines from this region include the white wines
Hrvatica, Malvazija, and Merlot Bujstine.
Wine Tours
Croatia
has just recently begun to utilize its wine cultivation in ways other than the
export of wine by trying to incorporate its tradition into the tourism
industry, offering tours of winemaking regions. In Istria, coastal tourism has
been blossoming for decades, while its interior has been forgotten. However,
Istria is trying to revive inland tourism by opening its first "'wine
road" which would meander around the peninsula. In addition to beautiful
scenery, this type of "peasant tourism" would offer delicacies and
wine from the local private farms situated along the route, thus also
benefiting the families which own these small wine cellars. A similar venture
is planned in Medjimurje as well, where the" wine road" would start
in Varazdin. Again, tourists would travel from farm to farm through corn and
wheat fields to rest at farms and enjoy local foods and wine.
Croatia
Today, Newsletter of the Embassy of the Republic of Croatia. Washington, D.C.
1985.