BRAGATO, ROMEO
New
Zealand owes much of our success in winegrowing to Romeo Bragato, who attained
his qualifications at the school of viticulture'and oenology at Conegliano,
Italy. Last month, Conegliano celebrated its 125th anniversary, and star
billing on the programme was accorded a lecture on Bragato‘s contribution to
New Zealand by Kevyn Moore, past president of the New Zealand Grape Growers
Council Inc.
Wine
Grower asked Kevyn for the text of his lecture, which records the key role
played by Bragato in the foundation of our industry.
The
New Zealand participation in the celebrations was complemented by a tasting of
wines provided by Montana,
Matariki,
Forrest Estate, Mt Difficulty, Cloudy Bay and Villa Maria.
Here
is the text of Kevyn Moore ~ lecture, which was entitled "Romeo Alessandro
Bragato, 1858-1913 - The
Significance
Of His Work to New Zealand".
4
THE
EARLY YEARS
Romeo
Bragato was born on 12 December 1858 on the Adriatic island of Lussin Piccolo,
at that time part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (now known as Mali Losinj -
part of Croatia). His father was Giuseppe and his mother Paolina Depangher was
from Vienna. The family may have been involved in salt extraction from sea
water.
Romeo
was the eldest of a family of five children. His two brothers were Massimiliano
(Max) and Giulio. Of his sisters we have only been able to determine the name
of Marietta. The two girls spent some of their school years in Lausanne,
Switzerland;-
Romeo's
early schooling was at Piran on the Istrian peninsula about 30 knis south of
Trieste. He attended the Regia Scuola di Viticoltura ed Enologia in Conegliano
between 1879 & 1883. Conegliano is in the heart of the Veneto wine growing
region.
In
his last year at Conegliano, he gave two addresses, the first on 7 January 18
83 on the previous harvest on the islands of. Quarnaro & Dalmazia, and the
second on 11 February 1884, discussed his findings on crop rotation.
Bragato
graduated in 1883 with the Diploma R.S.S.VOE and returned to Lussin Piccolo
where he was assistant at the Parenzo Enology & Pomology station and later
winemaker at the co-operative winery.
AUSTRALIA
Bragato
travelled to Melbourne Australia in about 1887 (exact date unknown) where he
became Viticulturist to the Victorian., Department of
4
Agriculture.
In 1889 he published a report on the potential for viticulture in the State of
Victoria.
Resulting
from this report, a Royal Commission for Agriculture in Victoria asked Bragato
to establish a school for viticulture and enology. Based on the Conegliano
model, Bragato established the school at Rutherglen, Victoria.
Little
else is known currently about his time in Australia, and it could well be the
subject of further research. It is known that his brother Massimiliano also
emigrated to Australia.
NEW
ZEALAND 1895
While
employed by the government of Victoria, Bragato visited New Zealand at the
request of Prime Minister.R J (Dick) Seddon in 1895.
Bragato
landed at Bluff, at the southern extremity of the South Island of New Zeal9nd,
on 19 February 1895, and accompanied by a succession of Department
ofAgri~ulture employees and oth-ers, worked his way north looking at existing
vineyards and inspecting areas where grapes might be grown for the production
of wine. There were already vineyards in many areas and he tasted wines from
these vineyards.
On
his return to Australia Bragato wrote a report 'Prospects of Viticulture and
Instructionsfor Planting and Pruning. I This was presented to the New Zealand
Government on 10 September 1895.
Bragato's
report identified the major grape growing regions of Central Otago, Canterbury,
Marlborough, Wairarapa (Martinborough), Hawke's Bay, and Auckland, it provided
illustrations on
Is
correct
pruning of the vine, and supplied information on the correct layout for a
vineyard.
He
found Phylloxera in Auckland and was concerned to determine how far it had
spread. As a result he recommended the importation from Europe of American
Phylloxera resistant vines.
Bragato
also made recommendations as to suitable varieties Riesling, Pinot Blanc,
Tokay, White Hermitage, Hermitage (Shiraz), Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Mueller Burgundy.
When
one looks at the regional spread of vineyards since about 197 3 it is of much
interest to consider remarks included in the Bragato report back in 1895.
Central
Otago - " Arrowtown, Cardrona, Wanaka, Cromwell, Bannockburn, Clyde are
eminently suitable for the cultivation of the vine."
Nelson
- " From what I saw in Nelson, I have no hesitation in advising residents
to plant vines on a large scale."
Wairarapa
- " The excellent example set by Mr Beetham and Mr Bunny will doubtless be
shortly followed by numerous other settlers..."
Hawke's
Bay - "Hawke's Bay province is, in my opinion, the most suitable for vine
growing I have visited..."
"The
advantages which the viticulture industry give to a country are many."
"The
wine industry is an immense source of wealth to a nation."
"...a
competent body in each district would determine the most suitable varieties....
Each district would subsequently gain notoriety for the wine produced as in the
various famed wine
districts
of the Continent."
"All
the finer qualities of wine produced in the Old World are made from one or two
varieties of grapes, thus showing the advisability of planting two or three
varieties which are similar in taste and ripen at the same time"
"It
is a fact beyond contention, except by the bigot, that in wine-drinking
countries the people are amongst the most sober, contented, and industrious on
the face of the earth"
Despite
glowing comments with regard to the climate, the suitability of soils, his high
regard for local efforts to date, and despite the fact that his visit was at
the invitation of the Prime Minister, nothing in Bragato's 1895 report was
acted upon. The only sign of interest was the enactment of the Orchard and
Garden Pests Act 1896, which was designed to assist in the control of
Phylloxera.
In
1897 at his own behest Mr W.J. Palmer, pomologist for the Dept of Agriculture,
planted one hectare of grapes at the Waerenga experimental station. In arl 12
varieties were planted including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier,
Pinot Chardonnay, Shiraz, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Malbec.
In
1901 Bragato again travelled to New Zealand to visit vineyards, to report on
the presence of the dreaded phylloxera, and to impart knowledge on winemaking.
At that time he visited Waerenga, official government recognition was given to
the vineyard, and the plantings were expanded to over 4.5 hectares.
New
Zealand 1902 - 1912
In
1902 the Government persuaded Bragato to come to New Zealand again. This time
he came to stay and he accepted the job as Government Viticulturist with the
Department of Agriculture. The government further expanded the viticulture
research station at Waerenga (Te Kauwhata), about 80 kilometers south of
Auckland.
Bragato
discovered that Phylloxera was quite widely spread and he organised the
importation of phylloxera resistant rootstocks and new scion material.By 1905
the vineyard had expanded to 8 hectares with all new plantings grafted to
American phylloxera resistant rootstocks. By 1907 all plantings on their own
roots had been removed.
Although
many of those early imports have been lost, some still exist and during the
past two years a strategy has been put in place to secure the future of this
and other plant material in a national vineyard collection. This is in
Marlborough and is being managed on a full time basis. Much is of dubious
commercial value in the current market, but has high historical importance, and
who knows what changes
8
in
popularity of grape variety and taste may occur in the future.
To
lessen the effects of Phylloxera Bragato recommended using, according to soil
type:
Riperia
Gloire, 420a, 1616
Rupestris
du Lot, 1202, 1,
Riperia
x Rupestris 3 3 06, 3 3 09, 101-14
Commonly
used rootstocks today 1970 - 2001:
Riperia
Gloire, 1202, 3306, 3309, 10114,SO4
Bragato
was insistant that only grafted plants be provided from the research station to
growers and initially demand exceeded supply.
Bragato
held field days, and a train was
even
sent from Auckland. One who attended was A. A. Corban founder of Corbans Wines,
a company which was destined to become one of New Zealand's largest wine
companies.
These
field days covered all aspects of viticultural practice and under his inspired
teaching were well received by growers.
,Climatic
comparisons carried out by
Bragato
produced some interesting figures. Bragato wrote a book 'Viticulture in New
Zealand'which was published in 1906
In
the book he set out exactly what was needed for wine growers to make fine wine.
Identified
the regions
Identified
the soils
Identified
the varieties for each region
Identified
the correct rootstocks to graft
Described
how to layout a vineyard
Described
the various methods of
grafting
Described
the various methods of
pruning
The
vineyards at Waerenga (Te Kauwhata) and the experimental station flourished.
The vineyards in New Zealand expanded from just 146 hectares in 1897 to 269
hectares in 1909. In 1908 six wines from the experimental station at Te
Kauwhata were sent to London for the Franco-British wine exhibition. They were:
If
Cabernet,
Pinot Noir, Pineau Meunier, Verdeilho, Chardonnay, Riesling.
I
am informed that all but Verdeilho won gold medals.
By
1909 despite all of his efforts and initial enthusiasm from both government and
growers some disillusionment had set in. Growers were afraid that the
temperance movement would persuade government to bring in legislation to their
detriment, and as a result vineyard planting slowed dramatically.
Despite
support for the experimental station government had not been receptive to any
of Bragato's other schemes for the development, growth and rapid expansion of
the wine industry.
In
1909 Bragato resigned.
THE
BENEFIT OF BRAGATO TO
NEW
ZEALAND
There
can be no doubt that the pioneering work and farsighted Vision of Romeo Bragato
is a major cornerstone of the modern New Zealand wine industry.
However,
like his earlier work in 1895, his efforts again went unrewarded and his
recommendations lay forgotten for something like 60 years.
The
temperance movement, unsympathetic governments, war, depression, all played a
part in the stultification of the New Zealand wine industry and the work of
Romeo Bragato being forgotten. His writings lay gathering dust.
By
the 1970's demand was growing to move away from the bulk fortified wine (port
and sherry) which was mostly produced at that time and to try and improve the
few, often undrinkable, table wines. Indeed in the publication, New Zealand
Wine Review, Volume I I No 4 (1974), Rodda wrote a timely article on Romeo
Bragato, and the value of his pioneering and far sighted vision for New
Zealand.
The
rebirth, the renaissance of the New Zealand industry owes much to Romeo
Bragato, to his recommendations and writings, and above all to his pursuit of
excellence
It
was the pioneers of our modern day industry who in the 1970's dusted off
Bragato's work, listened to other visiting viticulturists, and put into
practice the recommendations clearly set out by Bragato in 1906.
It
began with the planting of the correct grafted varietal vines, by laying out
vineyards correctly, by the expansion of vineyard plantings into those areas
and sites identified at the turn of the century, and by following good
viticulture & winemaking practices.
This
time, with a keenness to remember the lessons of the past and an enthusiasm to
embrace all that is new, New Zealand has become a producer of distinctive,
excellent wines.
THE
LATTER YEARS
Romeo
Bragato (48) married Laura Hayes Condon (2 3) at St Patrick's Cathedral
Auckland on 8 April 1907. They had one child - Miriam, born 7 February 1908. On
the 13 th June 1908 he became a New Zealand citizen. The family left New
Zealand for Canada in 1912. Bragato died in Vancouver on 13 December 1913.
Lauri & Miri returned to Auckland in 1921.
Miri
married Scott Colville.They had twin daughters in 1935, but only one survived
-Jan. Miri died in 1998, and granddaughter Jan still lives in Auckland. She is
delighted at the somewhat belated recognition given to her grandfather for his
vision for the New Zealand industry. A vision, that is now, over 100 years
later, a reality.
THE
ACCLAIM
In
1995 to commemorate the centenary of the first visit to New Zealand by Romeo
Bragato, as president of the New Zealand Grape Growers Council I persuaded our
executive to hold a conference and technical symposium.
The
Romeo Bragato Centennial Conference was held in Blenheim, Marlborough on 2 5 -
2 6 August 199 5.
The
key features were:
•
Romeo Bragato Conference
•
Bragato Address
•
Bragato Wine Awards And as they say - The rest is history.
The
idea was an instant success. The events take place annually over the last
weekend in August and have gone from strength to strength. The conference is
now the major technical symposium of the industry and is even attracting
interest from Australia & USA.
The
Bragato Wine Awards - which recognises excellence in viticulture practice - is
the fastest growing annual wine awards competition.
The
Bragato Address is delivered each year by an invited guest speaker. Each is a
recognised expert in a particular field of
viticulture.
To
date the addresses have been
1995
Dr Johann Marais - Stellenbosch, South Africa
'Effect
of Canopy Microclimate on Sauvignon Blanc Grape Composition'
1996
Prof Carmo Candolfi Vasconcelos - Corvallis, Oregon, USA 'The History and
Development of Integrated Production'
1997
Paul Miller - Melbourne, Australia
'Applying
Vine Row Volume Principles to Rate Selection & Spray Machinery Operations'
1998 Prof Stanley Howell - Michigan, USA 'Climatic Influences of Cool Climate
Viticulture' 1999 Dr Daniel Roberts California, USA
'From
The Soil to the Glass'
2000
Dr Laura Mugnai - Florence, Italy 'Understanding Vine Decline'
In
May 1905 Bragato wrote:
"I
cherish the conviction that the sentiment which has prompted me - the welare
and future prosperity of the vine growers in this colony - will be productive
of some benefit"
It
certainly has. That we are here today, in Conegliano, 106 years after Bragato
first stepped ashore in New Zealand is surely testament enough to the
significance of his foresight and vision.
New
Zealand Wine Grower
Winter
2001