Croatians Return to Goa
Nostalgically:
Zoravka
Matisic, a Croatian scholar studying Sanskrit in India, chanced upon historical
records that Croatians once lived in Gandaulim, a village set amidst sylvan
surroundings just about 3 kms from Old Goa. Matisic came down to widen her
knowledge. At the Rua de Ourem archives, she came upon an artistic sketch of
the entrance of the Gaudelupchar fort and from the Bishop’s Palace she came to
know the location of the site of her search. Moments of ecstasy awaited her at
Gandaulim when she saw that the church of Sao Braz , a small chapel built in
June 1541 and elevated to a parish church in 1563 by Archbishop D Frei Alexio
de Menezes (1595-1607). The petite church resembled so much the church of Svete
Vlaho (Sao Braz) in Dubrovnik in her country. Her painstaking research
motivated the visit of a 15-member Parliamentary delegation from the Republic
of Croatia, accompanied by Ambassador Zoran Andric, to the quaint little
Gandaulim village.
There
was even a palace designed by the Croatians. The plague that destroyed Old Goa
also had the people of Gandaulim fleeing for their life across the river to the
islands of St Estevam and Cumbarjua.
Says
Zoran Andric, the Ambassador of the Republic of Croatia, who accompanied the
delegation, “We are proud of this visit keeping in mind that the church was
built by our ancestors from Dubrovnik. Professor Mastic’s information prompted
this visit led by the vice president of the Croatian parliament Vladimir Seks
and the members of the television and press. The church is a replica of the
thrice larger church in Dubrovnik and even the altar is similar.”
Silvija
Luks-Kaloggera, Minister Plenipotentiary of the Embassy of the Republic of
Croatia, told GoaNOW, “More
important is the palace down there, also said to be built by Croatians 400
years ago. I am very proud that a
delegation has visited the place.
“What
is worth noting is that scientific work is not completed because there are two
theories: one says that it was built by Dubrovnik, and the other that the
people from Dubrovnik who arrived here in 1530, when Goa was occupied by the
Portuguese, built or rebuilt the church. The design on the left side of the
wall of the church proves that such architecture does not exist here. This is
more or less a replica of the church of Svete Vlaho in Dubrovnik. The people of
Gandaulim and Kumbarjua celebrate the feast of St Braz exactly on the 3rd of
February like the people in Dubrovnik.”
Silvija
added, “People here believe that there was a town, which disappeared after the
plague except for a 400-year-old palace. We don’t know whether the people of
Dubrovnik left at the time of the plague in the 18th century.
She
also said, “The question is why the church of Sao Braz is not a part of the
UNESCO heritage sites. However, with the joint action of the Indian and the
Croatian government we will try to create awareness that our history was linked
even 400 years back.
There
is every possibility that the friendly Croatians will consider to adopt the
church and perhaps some of the heritage elements there for the purpose of
conservation in course of time, according to Silvija Luks-Kalogjera.
"Pray
for us, and we pray for you too," remarked one lovely delegate to the
enthusiastic, young boys and girls who played host to the Europeans at the
ramshackle parish house.
Speaker
Tomazinho Cardozo, who welcomed the delegation to Goa and accompanied them to
Gandaulim and Old Goa, says, “The very fact that they flew across such a vast
distance to have a look at the tiny church and the village, shows the emotional
attachment of the Croatians to Goa.”
While
conversing, they arrived at the largest house, about 400 years old, in which
once lived Francis de Sa, Captain of the Fort of Gandaulim. Jose de Sa and his
family live there now. His lovely daughter Sonali showed us the interior of the
palatial mansion, which lies just about a hundred metres from the ferry, or at
the beginning of the Rua das Flores.
Here
Branimir Farkas of the Croatian Television interviewed Silvija Luks-Kalogjera,
followed by Braz Silveira, in the foreground of the 400-year-old rustic house.
The sleepy village was agog with excitement with so many foreigners arriving
there since the departure of the Portuguese. Things are looking up now for the
close-knit, largely Catholic village of about 500 people after the Croatian
visit. There is so much history buried amidst the ruins, and ruins do draw
curious visitors to odd places.
GoaNOW,
Joel D’Souza, 2000.