http://www.croatia.org/crown en-us http://www.croatia.org/crown N/A letters@croatia.org Sun, 12 Feb 2012 05:04:12 -0700 20 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10189/1/Travels-bring-experiences-and-memories-that-last-a-lifetime-Capt-Iv-Vidos-and-Violi-Calvert.html Travels bring experiences and memories that last a lifetime. They give us the opportunities to visit beautiful and interesting places, and meet amazing people. During a recent holiday my husband and I had included a 10-night Mediterranean cruise. In his welcome address I noted that the Captain is Croatian. Captain Iv Vidos reflected in his talk to passengers his great love for the sea and his mission of ensuring the safety and enjoyment of the holidaymakers as well as the staff of the ship. Aside from sharing valuable information and pointers, his good sense of humour came through his announcements before docking at various ports. violicalvert@optusnet.com.au (Violi Calvert) Mon, 17 Oct 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10179/1/Mediterranean-Culinary-Adventures-on-the-Opatija-Riviera-in-Croatia---Feasts-for-the-Senses.html In the fall of 2007, I took a well-deserved vacation in Europe. I visited Croatia on that trip and fell in love. I just had to go back. And so I did, and on a five-month journey of discovery, the idea to create a Website devoted to international gastronomy and travel destinations was born... You will be transported to a wonderful world of field trips, sumptuous wine tastings, hands-on cooking classes and adventurous truffle-hunting or wild asparagus picking. You'll learn, you'll experience, and you'll enjoy. It will be a rich, rewarding and enlightening get-away and you'll be glad you chose to spend your time with us. Written by Carmen Grenier from Canada. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sun, 25 Sep 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10167/1/Japanese-mathematicians-Yuki-Naito-and-Satoshi-Tanaka-visited-Zagreb-and-Plitvice-Lakes.html  Yuki Naito and Satoshi Tanaka, professors of mathematics from Japan, visited the Department of Applied Mathematics of the Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computing, University of Zagreb, Croatia, by the end of July 2011. This is a result of their collaboration with professor Mervan Pa¹iæ from that faculty. They delivered two plenary lectures at an International Math Workshop organized in Zagreb. During their stay in Croatia they visited the Plitivce Lakes. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sat, 10 Sep 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10160/1/Epidaurus-Festival-in-Cavtat-childhood-dream-of-Croatian-pianist-and-poet-Ivana-Marija-Vidovic.html My wish is that every sound produced at Epidaurus Festival would merge with Cavtat's magical hug, and that every word, every verse, whether sung or spoken, would, for centuries to come, continue to echo throughout its old streets, the very same ones that - within and of themselves - had been a stage for centuries already. Ivana Marija Vidoviæ, Artistic director of the Epidaurus festival. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sat, 20 Aug 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10159/1/Festival-Kvarner-a-new-meeting-point-of-artists-and-scholars-in-Opatija-Croatia.html The idea of the artistic exchange on a European level is revived in our Festival in the Kvarner region in Croatia. The fact that many composers, such as Mahler, Puccini, Lehar, Kalman, etc., who, over the course of history, have stayed here and have been inspired by the picturesque landscape and the Mediterranean flair proves that this location is perfectly suitable for music: history provides us with the evidence that our idea has a good basis. On the photo Vjekoslav Martinko, Lovran, president of the Festival Kvarner. Director of the Festival is dr. Michael Fendre, Vienna. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Fri, 19 Aug 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10158/1/Kayaking-in-Croatia---Destination-of-the-Year-according-to-National-Geographic.html It's a common practice in the town of Vis  (on the island of Vis, Croatia) for fishermen to purposefully sink their boats to get the wood to swell, which prevents leaks. However, it is an uncommon practice to photograph this procedure. The locals were so baffled while I shot this that they gathered around to watch me. Then they recruited me to help them. Just ten minutes after snapping this image, I was sent to bring the boat to shore. This is an article of National Geographic about Croatia, photos by Peter McBride, text by Rachel Scheer. ilija.veselica@gmail.com (Ilija Veselica) Wed, 17 Aug 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10145/1/Drago-Struna-and-his-view-to-natural-beauties-of-Croatia-in-particular-of-Istria.html We inivte you to see some very nice sets of photos prepared by Drago Struna, devoted to various parts of Croatia, in particular to Istria. Some presentations are accompanied by authentic Croatian music. Mr. Drago Struna is high school professor of chemistry, amateur photographer, and nature lover. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Thu, 21 Jul 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10133/1/Association-of-small-and-family-hotels-in-Croatia.html The Association of Small and Family Hotels gathers more than 150 members whose concept is based on high quality service and nurturing authenticity and indigenous local values. Hotels are spread all over Croatia and are distinguished by their continuous search for new features to enrich the stay of their guests. Whether you are searching for an active vacation, traveling with family, love to enjoy local cuisine or just want to rest we believe you will find a hotel that will fulfill all of your expectations. Welcome! darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Fri, 17 Jun 2011 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10042/1/Ivan-Gligoras-Pag-Cheese-awarded-with-the-Superior-Taste-mark-in-Brussels-2010.html The famous Pag cheese produced in the cheese plant Sirena – Mala sirana in Kolan at Island Pag owned by Ivan Gligora, has recently been awarded two golden stars and the right to label this cheese with the Superior Taste mark at the international Superior Taste event in Brussels. This is the greatest award so far for this cheese that has thus been included in the circle of seventy top food products in the world. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Thu, 02 Dec 2010 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10033/1/Ashley-Colburn-and-WOW-Croatia-seen-by-10-million-families-in-the-USA.html WOW Croatia is a documentary created in 2009 which has brought  the prestigious Emmy Award in 2010 to Ashley Colburn. Here we present the second part of her series of documentaries about Croatia, and an interesting interview she gave to Goran Rotim of the Croatian TV. By the mid 2010 about 10 million families in the USA have seen WOW Croatia darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sun, 14 Nov 2010 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/10001/1/Croatian-Cooking--Brenda-Brkusic-on-KOCE-TV.html Brenda Brku¹iæ shows us how to make delicious, healthy, traditional dinner from the Coastal region of Croatia, like Brudet, Blitva and Polenta. Croatia is known for its pristine island beaches, crystal clear waters and picturesque architecture, but we learn in this episode of Cooking for Health and Pleasure that it is also known for great food! darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sun, 01 Aug 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9997/1/Ashley-Colburn-and-WOW-Croatia-won-an-2010-Emmy-Award.html American television journalist and producer Ashley Colburn has won a prestigious Emmy Award for her documentary "WOW Croatia," which was filmed in October last year in our country, supported by Croatian National Tourist Board. From the historical walls of Dubrovnik to the markets and ties of Zagreb - get ready for a first class exploration of this amazing country. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Fri, 30 Jul 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9989/1/Fifty-three-Croatian-wines-awarded-at-the-Decanter-World-Wine-Awards-2010.html Fifty three Croatian wines have won awards at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2010, one of the most prestigious and acclaimed competitions in the industry. In 2009 Croatia has been hailed as a major force in the wine world after the country won more gold medals than established rivals including the US, New Zealand and Portugal at a leading tasting competition. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Mon, 19 Jul 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9988/1/The-Korea-Times-Croatia-8211-8216Miss-World8217-of-the-Mediterranean.html Mr. Lee Chang-sup, The Korea Times correspondent, wrote a very nice article about Croatia. Writing about Plitvice Lakes, Mr. Lee expressed his opinion that Croatians may feel their pride hurt when this national park is compared with the Niagara Falls in the U.S. and the Iguazu Falls near the border of Brazil and Argentina, at least in natural beauty. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Fri, 16 Jul 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9982/1/Croatian-town-Lipik-needs-help-to-rebuild-Kursalon.html The Kursalon, the neo-Renaissance style cafe in the town Lipik, Croatia, was constructed in 1893, with concert and a dance halls, a movie theater, restaurants, a piano bar, casino etc. It was the central point of the social and cultural life of the town until 1991, when it was destroyed  and burned during the Serbian aggression on Croatia. This is an appeal to rebuild one of the trademarks of the town of Lipik. On the photo Nenad Bach and Ivan Pu¹æenik in Lipik. ipuscenik@yahoo.com (Ivan Pu¹æenik) Tue, 29 Jun 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9977/1/Croatian-Warm-Sea-project---Projekt-Hrvatsko-Toplo-More.html The unused and neglected thermal and therapeutic springs in NW Croatia call for urgent action, in the area full of  castles, granges and villas. We want to renovate existing structures and put the unused springs to use, to invest in tourist-health centres. We invite Croats who are interested in taking part in this project to get in touch with us as soon as they can. zoran.posinovec@zg.htnet.hr (Zoran Posinovec, attorney at law) Thu, 17 Jun 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9959/1/Moreska-in-Croatia-the-last-authentic-sword-dance-in-the-Mediterranean.html The more¹ka dance on the island of Korèula in Croatia can be played only by those for whom at least one parent is from the island. The dance dates from the Middle Ages, and together with the house of Marko Polo represents one of the chief attractions of the island. The confraternity of All Saints is the oldest one on the island, founded back in 1301. Text and photos by Davor Rostuhar, Croatian journalist and photographer. rost@net.hr (Davor Rostuhar) Mon, 19 Apr 2010 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9876/1/Croatias-gold-medal-winning-wines-.html Croatia's discovery continues, with wine experts now realising what locals, and those in the know, have  been aware of for many years. The recent Decanter World Wine Awards gave eight gold medals to Croatian wines, whilst Argentina could only muster, seven and Chile four. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 17 Oct 2009 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9850/1/Villa-Ruzic-in-Rijeka-and-Croatian-Tales-of-Long-Ago-by-Ivana-Brlic-Mazuranic.html Villa Ru¾iæ, situated in the city of Rijeka, is a top monument of Croatian culture. Among other things it comprises numerous editions of the famous Croatian Tales of Long Ago published by Ivana Brliæ Ma¾uraniæ in 1916. The book intended for children was translated into some fourty languages, including Chinese. The Villa Ru¾iæ is superbly directed by Mr. Theodor de Canziani Jak¹iæ on the left. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Thu, 20 Aug 2009 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9841/1/Epidaurus-Festival-in-Cavtat-Croatia-Aug-28---Sep-22-2009.html CROWN invites you to attend the Third Epiduarus Festival in Cavtat,  from  August 28 to September 22 2009. The Festival has been founded and is directed by infatiguable Croatian pianist Ivana Marija Vidoviæ, on the photo. Cavtat is a lovely town south of Dubrovnik, on Croatian coast. Among principal guests of the Festival this year will be a famous Croatian guitarist Ana Vidoviæ. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Tue, 04 Aug 2009 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9774/1/Museum-of-Frogs-in-Lokve-Croatia.html In the village of Lokve in the region of Gorski Kotar in Croatia there is a unique museum devoted to frogs, called Muzej ¾aba - Museum of Frogs. Regular competitions are organized in frog jumping, which are very popular, among children as well as among grown-ups. Competitors with their frogs arrive from all over Croatia. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Wed, 08 Apr 2009 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9764/1/Sime-Strikoman-millenium-photos-of-Croatia.html ©ime Strikoman is the author of a series of unusual photos representing various aspects of Croatia. For example The Kutjevo Wine Cellars celebrate 777 years of existence, so he made a millenium photo. Equaly interesting are his photos related to the island of Pag, towns of ©ibenik, Zadar, Biograd, Split, etc. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 30 Mar 2009 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9705/1/Wooden-Baroque-Church-from-1642-near-Zagreb.html The Church of St. Barbara in Zagreb is the most important example of folk wooden sacral architecture of the Baroque period in Croatia. It was built of oak timber in 1642. It is very near the Zagreb airport. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sat, 17 Jan 2009 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9687/1/Croatian-Natural-Heart-found-by-Google-Earth-on-Island-Galesnjak-near-Zadar.html On the coast of Croatia, is this gorgeous heart shaped island, lined on every side with golden sands. Honeymoon location anyone? Croatia has 1185 islands, and 66 among them inhabited. slaven1947@gmail.com (Prof.Dr. Slaven Letica) Wed, 31 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9666/1/SNAV-MSC-Cruises-in-Dubrovnik.html In the last 7 years, MSC Cruises fleet brought over 700,000 guests to the Croatian city often nicknamed The Pearl of Adriatic - Dubrovnik, the only port in Croatia where passengers can embark MSC ships and start a vacation of their dreams. In 2008 alone MSC ships have called Dubrovnik 73 times carrying onboard over 200,000 passengers. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 05 Dec 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9541/1/Spectacular-Monument-to-The-Sun-in-the-city-of-Zadar-by-Nikola-Baiae.html Nikola Ba¹iæ is the author of probably the most beautiful monument dedicated to the Sun that exists on the Earth. The monument is placed in the city of Zadar, on the Croatian coast, along with equally famous Zadar Sea Organ. This is one of greatest achievements of contemporary Croatian Art and Architecture. darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Wed, 30 Apr 2008 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9451/1/Put-Zagreb-Croatia-on-the-Monopoly-Board-Game---Help-our-tourism.html HELP OUR TOURISM. Every day you can vote again at  monopolyworldvote.com click on Zagreb, and then add to my cities and then VOTE to Vote to have Zagreb on next WORLD MONOPOLY gameboard it takes 30 seconds maximum. Ivobach2@aol.com (Ivo Bach) Wed, 30 Jan 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9438/1/Enriching-experience-The-cream-of-Croatia-provides-a-fascinating-experience.html With miles of pristine beaches framed by dramatic mountains and impossibly clear Adriatic waters, more than a thousand picturesque islands ripe for hopping, and town upon ancient town bursting with faded Habsburg grandeur and dazzling Byzantine churches, Croatia provides a fascinating experience for any visitor. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 19 Jan 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9433/1/Help-Cora-Yanacek-explore-the-Dalmatian-Coast.html   Cora Yanacek (left) wants to explore Croatia's Dalmatian Coast in May but hasn't been able to decide on the best approach: Stay at one resort and use that as a base? Travel by bus along the coast? Take a cruise? She'll be traveling by herself and needs to stay under $2,000, including airfare. larryvote@aol.com (Larry Cirignano) Tue, 15 Jan 2008 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9404/1/No-exaggeration-Croatia-truly-the-Jewel-of-Adriatic.html I had read that Croatia was called the "Jewel of the Adriatic," to which I had rolled my eyes thinking it another trite and  exaggerated description. But it had become clear from the moment we got in our rental car in the marble streets of Zadar to begin our drive south that the description was in fact quite modest. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 21 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9380/1/Who-Needs-Venice-When-Zagreb-Beckons.html   Take Vienna's florid architecture, throw in Budapest's bubbling cafe culture, and you get Zagreb, Croatia's grand capital. A showcase of fin-de-siecle architecture capped by two hilltop medieval towns, Zagreb's unexpected beauty is drawing sophisticated weekenders. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 11 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9378/1/1925-elegance-lives-in-Zagreb.html   The Regent Esplanade brought glamor and elegance to Zagreb in 1925 when it opened to cater to passengers of the famed Orient Express train route between Paris and Constantinople. Today the Esplanade offers a luxurious gateway to one of Central Europe's hottest destinations - Croatia. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 10 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9377/1/Watch-Croatia-in-primetime-on-the-Amazing-Race-tonight-on-CBS.html   Croatia will be featured on the December 9, 2007 episode of the Amazing Race.  The Amazing Race is an Emmy award winning reality program on CBS that features teams of two in a race around the world. Tune in to watch! stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Sun, 09 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9367/1/Newsletter-of-the-Croatian-National-Tourist-Office-December-2007.html Gorski Kotar is relatively less known region of Croatia located in the continental part, just half an hour drive from the Northern Adriatic Coast. With parks of nature and rich wooded areas, it is a great alternative for coastal vacation. During winter months, ski-lovers can enjoy in any of ski-resorts, like Platak or Bjelolasica. cntony@earthlink.net (Nena Komarica) Tue, 04 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9364/1/Vinjica-estate-offers-riding-of-Arabian-horses-and-looks-for-investment.html Guests of Vi¹njica on the north of Croatia can, beside visiting the fallow-deer breeding site and the stud farm, enjoy riding beautiful Arabian horses or spend a day walking, jogging or riding a bike through the nature. To bring the entire estate to its purpose we need capital investments. vladom@xnet.hr (Vladimir Mihajloviæ) Mon, 03 Dec 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9359/1/Nikola-Baiae-author-of-the-Zadar-Sea-Organ.html Nikola Ba¹iæ, on the left, is one of the pioneers of cultural tourism in Croatia, author of the project of the Zadar Sea Organ, the newly built urban musical attraction in the city of Zadar, Croatia. His principal collaborator was Ivan Stamaæ, expert in acoustics who contributed musical solutions to the project. The random music is created by sea waves and tubes. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 29 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9346/1/Introducing-mobiExplore-Croatia.html A new mobile travel guide - mobiEXPLORE, developed in Split, Croatia, was officially presented. More than 300,000 tourists walk around Croatia with mobile guide in their hands, reserving table in a restaurant, booking room in a hotel, sightseeing, listening stories about sights. vedran@gideon.hr (Vedran Prazen) Fri, 16 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9335/1/Scenic-Projection-for-Croatia-in-Edinburgh-Scotland.html   Thye Edinburgh company projected images of the country onto a building opposite the city's Balmoral Hotel. The event coincided with a visit to the Scottish Parliament by Croatia's president, Stjepan Mesic. The projection used images of Croatia, its flag and the Croatian Tourist Board's branding. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 05 Nov 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9256/1/Croatia-is-a-standout---by-Jon-Durbin.html   We actually traveled through five countries, beginning and ending our trip in Venice. In addition to Italy, the other four countries, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Montenegro are all part of the former Yugoslavia. While we have wonderful memories from the whole trip, Croatia is a standout. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 12 Sep 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9243/1/Americans-Flock-to-Croatia.html    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 31 Aug 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9230/1/Croatia-The-New-Riveria.html With summer upon us, we face a serious question: where is the hottest place to soak up the sun?  martina.sola@sanmina-sci.com (Martina Sola) Thu, 23 Aug 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9175/1/Croatian-National-Tourist-office-Newsletter---August-2007.html     cntony@earthlink.net (Nena Komarica) Wed, 01 Aug 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9169/1/Interhome-expands-Croatia-offering.html  Croatia remains at the top of the "wish" list for many British holiday-makers and now there's even more choice for those who want the "home away from home" experience. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 01 Aug 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9170/1/Beaches-to-dive-for-with-Hidden-Croatia.html Hidden Croatia, the leading specialist tour operator, brings you the most outstanding beaches and diving spots along this rugged and breathtaking coast.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 31 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9165/1/Summer-2007-Hvar-Croatia.html  In our new resort report series we look at Hvar, Croatia and get the lowdown on the best places to eat and stay. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 29 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9160/1/A-Thousand-Leaps-of-Faith-in-Zadar-Croatia---World-Record.html     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 27 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9152/1/ATP-18th-edition-of-Croatian-Institution-Studena-Croatia-Open-Umag-2007.html As we enter the 18th edition of the tournament...we proved the world that Umag's tournament is not only about tennis. A new look of the main square, an entertainment program just like those in the main world capitals. A Croatian Institution Studena Croatia Open Umag. Croatia Open Director, Slavko Rasberger (photo).   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 25 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9149/1/Children-play-with-a-dolphin-in-the-sea-off-the-Adriatic-coast-of-Croatia.html Children play with a dolphin in the sea off the Adriatic coastal town of Krilo Jesenice, Croatia. The baby dolphin was separated from his mother but later rescued when the school of dolphins returned to collect it   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 22 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9136/1/Czechs-love-Croatia.html Croatia is a country that Czech people love. The Croatian seashore helps Czechs restore their physical and mental condition, and Czech money helps Croatians to restore their post-war economy.   c.mateo@verizon.net (Martin Cvjetkoviæ) Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9135/1/Flyglobespan-offers-new-route-to-Pula.html     stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9134/1/Croatia-All-at-sea.html  We left British shores as six strangers, split into two crews on a flotilla holiday across the azure waters of Croatia's spectacular coast. We returned as friends who had learnt a bit about sailing. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 08 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9128/1/Special-Deals-for-Australian-Tourists-to-Croatia.html    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 05 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9114/1/Two-Americans-living-in-Dubrovnik.html Andrew and Michelle Kehoe have swapped the "big apple" for the peace and quiet of Dubrovnik. They first came here in 2006 and as they say fell in love with the city.   c.mateo@verizon.net (Martin Cvjetkoviæ) Tue, 03 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9115/1/Iowans-on-the-go-Croatia-finds-peace-old-self.html letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Jul 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9107/1/The-vulture-man-of-Croatia.html  Goran Susic runs an operation that helps conserve a surprisingly large local population of griffen vultures, which have become a tourist attraction, since he set up his centre in 1993. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 28 Jun 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9106/1/Get-fit-the-fun-way-with-an-Activity-Holiday-in-Croatia.html If you are always promising yourself an activity holiday, why not try one with a more adventurous edge? letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 28 Jun 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9051/1/Heritage-and-genealogy-of-Croatia-tour-hosted-by-Robert-Jerin-October-4---17-2007.html Join Robert Jerin, for this exploration of Croatia's history and heritage. Meet with local professionals working in genealogy while cruising the coastline and tour this country rich in culture.   rjerin26@yahoo.com (Robert Jerin) Wed, 30 May 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/9005/1/Europe-2007-Zagreb-the-Continents-new-star.html  Now, in person, the capital of an at-last independent Croatia shows off its colors and vibrancy. Maybe it always was thus, but it never came to mind as one of the must-see cities on the Continent. no_e-mail@email.com (Ana Petercic) Wed, 28 Mar 2007 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8971/1/Hidden-Croatia-Releases-Honeymoon-Brochure.html Hidden Croatia is pleased to announce the launch of their honeymoon brochure. Hidden Croatia have hand picked a selection of unique hotels letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 07 Mar 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8952/1/Online-Route-planner-For-Cycling-Trips-To-Croatia.html   Holidaymakers thinking of visiting Croatia can now get information online about cycling tours in Istria. Istria's tourist office in Porec has a multilingual service online, where a list of cycling routes can be found. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 20 Feb 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8951/1/A-View-With-a-Room.html The spectacular coast of Croatia is studded with centuries-old lighthouses. Eleven of them have vacation rentals that allow guests to play keeper for a week.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 20 Feb 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8919/1/Le-Meridien-Lav-Opens-First-Hotel-In-Split-Croatia.html   Le Méridien Lav is taking over the resort previously known as the Hotel Lav, giving it a $150 million renovation. The resort has 364 guestrooms with 17 suites and a Presidential Suite. The beach-front resort has seven bars and dining areas, tennis academy, private yacht marina, a casino and indoor and outdoor pools. stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Tue, 30 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8918/1/Croatia---The-New-Foodie-Frontier.html Croatia has been my second home for nearly three decades. I learned to cook from my mother-in-law, in the tiny kitchen, two blocks from Zagreb's bustling, colorful open market. She taught me that the key to any successful dish began with selecting the freshest ingredients, preferrably local. Herbs and spices were also important.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 30 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8917/1/Terra-Incognita-Croatia-2007.html   Terra Incognita is an Expedition Adventure Race that covers over 400 km through Croatia - one of the most beautiful and diverse landscapes on the European Continent. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 30 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8903/1/Croatia-The-best-of-Europe.html Does Croatia cross your mind while you use a ball pen or knot your tie? Probably not, but not too many know that these mundane, every day things originate from this Mediterranean country (the ball pen was invented by a Croatian and the latter by Croat soldiers).  stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Thu, 18 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8896/1/Croatia-vs-Greece.html Greece has sharpened up its image, but Croatia needs no makeover. Summer holidays here are hype-free, a throwback to the Med as it used to be. Few bits of Europe compare with the southern Dalmatian coast. It has the cleanest seas in the Med (sorry, Greece); the sunniest islands in the Adriatic (Hvar and Mljet); and the longest, whitest beaches.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 14 Jan 2007 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8836/1/Ten-best-places-in-Croatia.html     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 24 Nov 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8810/1/Plitvice-Lakes-National-Park-Croatia.html In Croatia's rugged interior, a stone's throw from the Bosnian border, hides one of Europe's most exotic hikes: through Plitvice (PLEET-veet-seh) Lakes National Park. There's nothing like this lush valley of 16 terraced lakes, laced together by waterfalls and miles of pleasant plank walks. Years ago, after a dozen or so visits, I thought I really knew Europe. Then I discovered Plitvice, and realized you can never exhaust Europe of its surprises.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 10 Nov 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8785/1/Croatian-lace.html The annual exhbition of Croatian lace in the town of Lepoglava near Zagreb, showed amazing skills of our women in knitting, using subtle patterns of breathtaking beauty. The 10th International Lace Festival - Lepoglava 2006 has been very successfuly organized. The oldest testimony of lace making in Croatia is from the 15th century, mentioned in the minutes of the Dubrovnik Senat.   darko_zubrinic@yahoo.com (Prof.Dr. Darko Zubrinic) Sat, 04 Nov 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8770/1/Truffle-fever-hits-Croatias-Istria-peninsula---for-their-supposed-aphrodisiac-effect.html   MOTOVUN WOODS, Croatia - It's 5:00 am and dawn is still far off, but Keti and Bela are already at work and don't seem to mind the cold autumn mist shrouding the Motovun woods in the heart of the Istria peninsula. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 03 Nov 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8702/1/Croatian-Highlights-and-History-Tour.html Are you interested in traveling to Croatia next year, but don't want to deal with the hassle of making an itinerary? Croatian-American photographer Don Wolf will be offering a guided tour of Croatia in 2007. Interested? Read more.   stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Wed, 13 Sep 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8649/1/Touring-Croatia-on-a-Bicycle.html   Increasingly tourists are asking for more from their holidays and gone are the days of merely lying on a beach for two weeks. stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Sun, 03 Sep 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8648/1/Visit-Croatias-Grandest-Coastal-Town.html  Opatija is one of northern Croatia's grandest coastal towns and is an ideal place to see beautiful buildings, take in sea views and wander around colourful gardens.   stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Sun, 03 Sep 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8650/1/Yachts-and-Hot-Croatia.html  While there are bundles of cheap, more traditional holidays to pick up in the country, there is an alternative, swash-buckling way of enjoying Croatia's verdant beauty - that of a yacht race.   stecak@sbcglobal.net (Marko Puljiæ) Sat, 26 Aug 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8610/1/Mario-Ancic-on-a-Zagreb-Tour.html Mario Ancic tours Zagreb, 3 minute video letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 13 Aug 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8595/1/E-Croatia-27-countries-at-2006-International-Finn-General-Assembly.html Croatia. 27 voting countries attend 2006 International Finn Association Annual General Assembly   Wednesday, 12 July 2006 Corinne McKenzie:The 2006 IFA Annual General Assembly took place on Sunday in the spectacular Archaeological Museum assembling over 70 participants and 27 voting countries (Finn class decisions are democratically taken on a yearly basis by the countries members of IFA). The Executive Committee members were re-elected with the inclusion of top Swedish sailor, Daniel Birgmark in the role of Vice President Sailing. He is replacing Ali Enver Adakan who after committing to the Finn class during many years has decided to reduce his sailing activities.Among the decisions taken, the Council voted to adopt the new Olympic format for the European and Finn Gold Cup, but will include providing racing on the last day for sailors not qualified in the top 10 final.For their last Olympic qualifying event which has to be outside of Europe, the Finn representatives have decided to return to Black Rock Yacht Club, Australia, for the 2008 Finn Gold Cup and chose the newly built Etrusca Marina in Puntone di Scarlino, Italy for the 2008 European Championship. Representatives from the Moscow Sailing School and Moscow City Sport Management presented the 2007 Finn Junior Championship. To respond to the increasing number of Juniors and with the limitation of entries imposed by ISAF for the 2007 ISAF Worlds in Cascais, the IFA executive committee has proposed to create a separate Junior World Championship every 4 years (in the year of the ISAF Worlds). With 100 complete boats available for racing in Moscow, it was logical to enjoy this opportunity to organise this inaugural Junior event there. Based on the same system as the ISAF Youth Worlds, participants will only have to organise their trip. Accommodation and food will be provided on the premises for all participants for a good rate while the equipment and coach boats will be provided at no cost. “It is a great development opportunity for the class and sailing generally, the Finn class will organise a clinic to increase the level of junior sailors” explained IFA President Dr. Balazs Hajdu.Other step towards development includes the “Web based Finn clinic” elaborated by Gus Miller and Jane Walker. All sailing topics will be covered in this tutorial interactive web based tool, where still and motion pictures will be available along with comments and interviews of top athletes and coaches in different languages.The Finn class welcomed the project and will participate with US$6,000 on an overall estimated budget of US$30,000. This great development tool will be available free of charge to any sailor at the end of 2006 and is predicted to be used not only by Finn sailors but also by other dinghy sailors and coaches.In order to generate sufficient income to cover the Finn development items, administration, measurement expertise and regatta organisation, IFA has voted in favour of increasing the equipment building fees for boats, masts and sails. In the last 3 years, the ISAF grant for Olympic classes was enough to cover these items. The decision by ISAF to cancel it this year is forcing most Olympic classes to find other source of income.The high demand from sailors to see the football final forced the AGM to be adjourned after the St Francis YC bid presentation for the 2009 FGC which received high interest from sailors and will be voted for in 2007 along with other bids. The remaining items in the agenda will be discussed on Tuesday evening.http://jklabud.hr/2006/index.php?regata=finn/ Last Updated ( Wednesday, 12 July 2006 ) http://www.bymnews.com/new/content/view/32214/48/ letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 12 Jul 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8594/1/E-Ecotourism-on-the-rise-in-Croatia.html Ecotourism on the rise in Croatia  07/07/2006Most visitors to Croatia come for the beaches and islands. But an emerging trend in tourism is drawing more and more of them inland, while also helping to boost ecological awareness.By Kristina Cuk for Southeast European Times in Zagreb -- 07/7/06Snowboarder_Brezovica_Croatia.jpgA snowboarder hits the slopes in Brezovica, Croatia. [Getty Images]Ecological tourism is a rapidly developing branch of tourism, appealing to those eager to follow the road less travelled, see natural treasures firsthand, relax in the countryside, enjoy traditional cuisine and -- most importantly -- preserve the environment. Such tourists are drawn to locations offering natural rugged beauty and diversity of animal and plant life. They enjoy activities such as cycling, mountain climbing, horseback riding, swimming, fishing and hiking. Alternatively, some come to plant trees or clean up the area.Because of its unique geographical location, Croatia stands to benefit from this emerging trend. It is a country of great regional diversity, with mountains, lowlands, coastlines, rivers and lakes. Summer tourism is usually concentrated along the coast and centres on the sea and islands. Now, however, ecological and rural tourism is leading more and more visitors to turn their focus inland.Across the country, cabins, motels and even small castles are being opened, while traditional old houses are undergoing renovation. Guests can relax and take in the scenery while enjoying domestic cuisine prepared according to the specific customs of each particular area.Ecotourism is growing rapidly and will be profitable in years to come, says the owner of one rural house near Zagreb. Croatia's coming entry into the EU means more financial support for these endeavours, as well as the likelihood of more visitors.However, this style of tourism is not only about enjoyment. It also aims at developing greater awareness of and responsibility towards the natural environment. The United States, for instance, has an organisation called "Green Hostels" that how to travel responsibly by following certain ecological rules. These include using organised transport rather than renting cars, cleaning up waste, and conserving water while showering. While eco-tourism remains a new phenomenon in Croatia, over time it may help foster similar awareness in this country too.http://www.setimes.com/cocoon/setimes/xhtml/en_GB/features/setimes/features/2006/07/07/feature-02   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 07 Jul 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8593/1/E-Croatia-Glows---A-simple-appreciation-of-life-and-love-that-requires-no-analysis.html Croatia Glows  SIMONA RABINOVITCH A simple appreciation of life and love that requires no analysis, a sensibility Croatia continues to embrace.From Saturday's Globe and MailZagreb — Two groomsmen duck into the courtyard for a smoke. I watch them from the restaurant doorway, taking in their black tuxedos, champagne grins, and stumbly ease with one another. The serene, magnolia darkness offers a much-needed break from the heated conversation at our table.I'm dining with two other foreign journalists and a group of locals at Okrugljak, an eatery just outside Zagreb. We had all met for the first time a few hours earlier in the lobby of the Regent Esplanade hotel, but any awkwardness at dinner is soon soothed by the relaxed chatter and laughter of the families filling the dining room — not to mention the bevanda, a traditional Croatian mixture of red wine and water.In fact, we feel so at ease that our uncensored chit-chat reveals cultural differences. For instance, the New Yorker in our entourage can't understand why requesting a doggie bag for my dessert might be a faux-pas. "You've heard of fast food? This is slow food," says our hostess Amelia Tomasevic, graciously looking us each in the eye, as Croats do.The evening was the first of many that would highlight the contrast between North America's rat race and Croatia's laid-back lifestyle. A decade removed from civil war, the union of Old World warmth and modern sophistication — everyone, for instance, seems to own fancy cellphones — is one reason Croatia is regaining its A-list status among jet setters and discriminating European travellers. Actors Sean Connery, Gwyneth Paltrow and Tom Cruise have been spotted vacationing (separately) on the Dalmatian Coast. Princess Caroline of Monaco is reportedly buying one of the 1,185 islands in the region, and Robert e Niro, Clint Eastwood and Sharon Stone are also rumoured to be eyeing real-estate along Croatia's 1,778-kilometre Adriatic coastline.Many influential publications — from GQ and Condé Nast Traveler magazines to National Geographic and the New York Times — are dubbing this Adriatic country "the new Riviera," equating Croatia with what Western Europe once was, before the onset of commercialism and gaudiness. The Dalmatian Coast — notably lavender-skinned Hvar Island and the ancient resort town of Split — is being referred to as "the new CÃ'te d'Azur." Dubrovnik, the thousand-year-old seaside city of marble streets and stone walls that poet Lord Byron called "the pearl of the Adriatic," is "the new St-Tropez." Inland, the green hills and wineries of Istria make up "the new Tuscany."Despite the recent hype, Croatia remains refreshingly inexpensive compared with such Mediterranean destinations as Italy, France and Spain. Main courses of grilled sea bass and roasted lamb in the finest restaurants, for example, usually remain well below the $20 mark.Wine with dinner is also quite inexpensive ($10 to $20 for a bottle of Istria's white malmsey or red teran), but a round of cocktails in a popular club may yield a Toronto-esque tab. Of course, prices in Zagreb and the country's popular coastal towns jump drastically during the crowded summer months, but during the off-season — September through May — are well below Western European levels.Croatia's position between Eastern and Western Europe has allowed Italian, German, Hungarian, Mediterranean, Balkan and Slavic customs to surface in its art, food, architecture, and society. The latter is noticeable in the hospitable and strikingly attractive population. Visitors hoping men will measure up to Croatian actor Goran Visnjic — sexy Dr. Luka Kovac on TV's ER — won't be disappointed.Which brings me back to the tipsy groomsmen, who had been part of a wedding taking place in a banquet hall adjoining the restaurant. Theirs was the seventh ceremony I had come across earlier that day, strolling through the city's medieval Upper Town. (The Lower Town, meanwhile, is home to most of the city's 50 museums and galleries, as well as countless parks, shops, cafés, and trendy nightclubs like Boogalo, Sokol, Saloon, and Gap club.) Weaving my way through the Upper Town's cobblestone laneways, wedding parties spilled into the streets, drawing me into flurries of flashbulbs and satin, then spitting me out the other side. Truth be told, walking through moments of other people's happiness made me feel like the ultimate tourist. I realized I was a stranger not only to this country, but to the ease with which Croats interact and rejoice.But life in Croatia isn't all easygoing dinners and wedded bliss. The other side of this kuna (Croatia's currency) is rampant unemployment, relatively low wages, corruption, and declining standards of living. Some of these problems stem from the civil war and transition from a socialist-communist economy. But nobody talks about the past. At least, not to me. Things they do talk about: Whether or not to join the European Union. Art, music, movies, sex, sports.Leisure is certainly important here, and most Croats love to sit with their coffee. In Zagreb, I did just that at the elegant Regent Esplanade, a five-star, art-deco hotel built in 1925 for passengers of the Orient Express. (The train station is still across the street).For handicrafts, housewares, and fresh fruit and vegetables, don't miss Zagreb's outdoor Dolac market, nor the beautiful Mirogoj cemetery, which is also a flower-filled park and houses an outdoor sculpture gallery. For people-watching and café culture, Trg Jelacic is the bustling town square linking the city's upper and lower halves.Leaving the capital with Nino, our driver, at the wheel of a rented car, our dinner group heads north into Istria after two days in Zagreb. This region is so close to Italy that it feels Italian — its population includes a 10-per-cent minority of ethnic Italians. Asparagus grow like dandelions in Istria's hilly green interior, where other culinary specialties include cheese and truffles.A pair of villages — each perched on a mountaintop, separated like estranged cousins — have witnessed the region's slow evolution since medieval times. Motovun, which local legend says was once inhabited by giants, was fortified by the Venetians in the 14th century. Every July during the Motovun Film Festival, fans of independent cinema overrun the town and pitch tents in the surrounding foothills (a practise that has yielded the nickname "Film Woodstock").The other village is Groznjan, less famous, but in my mind just as alluring. Walled in the 12th century, this artist colony emanates stillness, as if the forces of modernism can't make it up the hill (I wasn't sure our car would, either). I fantasize about living there, just to write.I'm in good company. In 1904, James Joyce moved from Trieste, Italy, to Pula, the Istrian port town where Roman ruins stand beside busy, modern shops. (He lived there for a year with his partner Nora Barnacle, writing and teaching English to Austro-Hungarian officers.)In the town centre near the majestic Arch of Sergius (erected in 27 BC) and Temple of Augustus (2 BC to AD 12), we happen upon a brass band performing on a side street near the town square; a gastronomical festival; even an archeological dig beside the temple, where a woman in a red suit barks directions at archeologists who, just five days earlier, had uncovered the original pavement of the town's Roman forum. Pula's main attraction — its first-century Roman amphitheatre — is now used as a concert venue for big rock shows.The next day we drive to Opatija, a lovely seaside resort town in the neighbouring Kvarner region that was once the preferred playground of the Austro-Hungarian elite. Its 12-kilometre-long waterfront promenade offers great views of Cres, Croatia's largest island.Accessible by ferry, Cres is a rocky landscape of ancient towns and sandy beaches. Cres Town evokes an Italian fishing village, while northern Cres is home to the Eco-Centre Caput Insulae, a sanctuary for griffon vultures. An "outdoor museum" of walking trails leads us through forests, medieval ruins and stone sculptures inscribed with ancient Glagolitic script.Back in Opatija, the freshest of fish is served at Mali Raj, a family-owned seafood restaurant nestled into the coastline. For dessert, we sip sorbetta, a marvellous concoction of lime sorbet whipped with vodka. Our host is Ante Stampalija, a jolly, robust gentleman from a long line of fisherman who personified the Mediterranean way of life I am beginning to covet. "We say fish three times swim," he jokes. "First in the sea, second in olive oil, and third in wine — when you drink it."During the next day's four-hour drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park, a World Heritage Site of 16 lakes connected by waterfalls, Nino suggests we stop for espresso at a roadside bar. This break in the action reminds me of my favourite moment of the trip: Of that first night in Zagreb when I stood outside, smelled the flowers, and watched two guys share a cigarette.Suddenly, I understand what people miss when they reminisce about the old days: a simple appreciation of life and love that requires no analysis — a sensibility Croatia continues to embrace.!Special to The Globe and MailGETTING THERE Although Air Canada doesn't fly to Croatia, fellow Star Alliance member Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) operates flights to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik from various airports in Western Europe. National carrier Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr) also operates flights to European hubs. WHERE TO STAY Regent Esplanade: Mihanoviceva 1, Zagreb; 1-800-545-4000; www.regenthotels.com. Built in 1925 for passengers of the Orient Express, this five-star property combines traditional elegance and contemporary chic. Rooms start at $200 a night. Hotel Kastel: Trg Andrea Antico 7, Motovun; 385 (1) 5268 1607; www.hotel-kastel-motovun.hr. Located in the town square of this ancient hilltop village. Rooms start at $55. Hotel Bristol: Lica Marsala Tita 108, Opatija; 385 (1) 5170 6300; hotel-bristol.hr. Newly renovated, this seaside four-star has retained its architectural highlights dating back to 1906. Rooms start at $100. WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Okrugljak: Mlinovi 28, Zagreb; 385 (1) 467 4112; www.okrugljak.hr . A splendid traditional family restaurant with an adjoining banquet hall. Mali Raj: Opatija; 385 (1) 5170 4074. With a name that translates to "Little Paradise," this restaurant and pension specializes in seafood fresh from the Adriatic it overlooks.! THINGS TO DO Motovun Film Festival: www.motovunfilmfestival.com. Annual festival takes over the village from July 24 to 28. Eco-Centre Caput Insulae: Beli 4, Island of Cres; 385 (5) 184 0525; www.caput-insulae.com. This private non-profit organization houses a sanctuary for endangered griffon vultures, as well as an "outdoor museum" of walking trails. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20060708.wcroatiatrav0708/BNStory/specialTravel/home letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 07 Jul 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8591/1/E-Cocktail-from-10000-feet-has-been-launched-in-Croatia.html HIGH-FLYING COCKTAIL The ultimate cocktail which can only be mixed by a barman freefalling from 10,000 feet has been launched in Croatia. The Wings of Zadar cocktail, based on the local Maraschino liqueur, is poured upside down so that the drink flies upwards into the mixer, and then shaken as the barman performs a series of somersaults. The drink is chilled by the freezing air rushing over the shaker - and then served on landing to the customer. Drinks creator Ante Butic, who has been serving the drinks to clients on the beach at Zadar, said: "The high altitude mix gives the drink a distinct flavour. "It is really popular, the service is sponsored by the local tourism board but who knows, maybe I might carry on if I can find enough rich customers who want to try the ultimate cocktail." source: www.ananova.com/ May 30, 2006 letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 14 Jun 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8592/1/E-Former-Derby-County-defender-opens-hotel-in-Croatia.html Former Derby County defender opens hotel in Croatia  (13 June 2006 15:52)Former Derby County defender Igor Stimac has opened a £10m hotel in his home country of Croatia, and is preparing to welcome some of England's national team to the hotel after the World Cup.Reopening the 111-year-old hotel Therapia in Crikvenica in the northern Adriatic last week, Stimac said Frank Lampard and Joe Cole were set to spend their holidays there after the tournament."I expect more celebrities,” he said at the launch of the hotel he bought two-and-a-half years ago.The four-star Therapia was built in 1895, when Franz Josef ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire.It has 113 rooms, several apartments, two restaurants, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a massage centre, a dance terrace and tennis and miniature golf courses.Besides playing for Derby County and West Ham, Stimac won the bronze medal with the Croatian national team at World Cup 1998 in France.By Jim Glennhttp://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2006/06/13/307175/Former+Derby+County+defender+opens+hotel+in+Croatia.htm Hotel Therapia - www.therapia.hr  Hotel Therpia Contact and locationBraće Buchoffer 12, 51260 Crikvenica, Croatiatel: +385(0)51 785-063, fax: +385(0)51 785-072e-mail: therapia@jadran-crikvenica.hr , therapia@adria-crikvenica.hr , therapia@booking.hr letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 13 Jun 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8305/1/E-Croatias-so-hyped-that-prices-are-rising-by-the-minute.html See Croatia's Adriatic pearls from $20/nightVisit World Heritage sites, sleep in a lighthouse, take a kayak tourUpdated: 11:44 a.m. ET May 18, 2006Book by: ASAP Travel by: Through September 2006 The deal: Long gone is the time when Croatia was a no-go war-ridden zone. In fact, the country's comeback has been so glamorous that it currently ranks as one of Europe's hottest summer vacation spots. Since its economy doesn't rely on the euro, a visit here is definitely great value, but peak-season airfare can still be known to break the bank. You'll be able to discover this new "it" destination with the four deals we've found, ranging from an escorted eight-night air-and-hotel Adriatic combo from $2,199 to a historic lighthouse overnight from less than $20/nightDalmatian sunshine for $2,499The best-value summer fling to Croatia is currently on offer by Gate1Travel: the escorted 10-day Dalmatian Coast escapade for just $2,499. In addition to air from New York, known to run over $1,500 during summer months, this stellar special covers eight-night hotel stays; 14 meals; guided sightseeing with entrance fees; and all transfers. The itinerary includes sojourns in Dubrovnik, also known as "the pearl of the Adriatic"; the historic port city of Split; the breathtaking Plitvice National Park with its terraced lakes; Slovenia’s lake village of Bled; and Croatia’s picturesque capital of Zagreb. Other stops en route are the stunning Postojna Caves; the immaculately preserved historic town of Trogir; and the elegant Opatija sea resort.Lodgings provided throughout are at properties like the four-star Sheraton in downtown Zagreb. At this price, you can pick between the following departures: June 23; July 7 and 21; August 18; and September 1. Save $300 on fall toursSummer may be the peak season for visiting Croatia but what most people don’t know is that early fall is just as beautiful and less crowded to boot. So if you want to save a serious chunk of change, we recommend an autumn jaunt to this European treasure. Go-Today's deal is the best one going here, as $2,199 gets you exactly the same inclusions as above and it’s good for travel between September 15 and October 27. You’ll save $300 over summer departures plus you’ll have the Dalmatian gems practically to yourself. On top of destinations mentioned above, other highlights of the extensive itinerary include a visit to the Roman-era Diocletian’s Palace in Split, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site; a pit stop in Slovenia’s charming capital city of Ljubljana; and a stopover in Croatia’s Zadar, the oldest Slavic city on the Adriatic. Kayak around the Adriatic for $2,390How about a little adventure thrown into your Croatia stay? If the idea rocks your boat, we suggest Travel Time’s Dubrovnik and Dalmatian islands kayaking trip for $2,390. Valid for weekly Saturday departures through August, this 11-day odyssey covers air from New York, with transfers; three nights at midrange Hotel Lero in Dubrovnik; seven nights at privately owned guesthouses; daily breakfast, five lunches and three dinners; and all local taxes. But here’s the best part: This fun trip includes eight days of kayaking in small groups around Sipan and Lopud islands or Korcula Island. September is also a great time to go, with weather perfectly pleasant, sea temperatures still balmy and prices for the same package down to $1,990. Add-ons from other getaways are available at low prices: From Boston, it’s $50 more; from Chicago, it costs $110 extra; L.A. or San Francisco departures increase the price by $250. Lighten up with a lighthouse stay in Croatia this JuneWe also have a unique travel suggestion if you can pack up and head to Croatia in short order. Why not lighten up with a stay at one of the historic lighthouses along the Adriatic and save 10 percent off rack rates for stays through June? You can pick between 11 lighthouses, located both on the mainland and on small islets out in the open sea. Each property features well-appointed apartments with fully-equipped kitchens and TVs. Most of the lighthouses have a resident keeper, so you won’t have to play Robinson Crusoe, but you will have to bring your own groceries and drinking water and be prepared to cook as there are no on-premise facilities.Note that there’s a one-week minimum stay, from Saturday to Saturday only. Per person rates (before the discount) start at $17/night for a stay at Struga Lighthouse on the island of Lastovo and go up to $38/night at the hilltop Palagruza Lighthouse on a remote island of the same name.The dollars: See details above. The packages exclude air taxes and fees, while the lighthouse stays exclude boat transfers (if you pick one of the island lighthouses). The catch: Croatia’s so hyped that prices are rising by the minute. http://msnbc.msn.com/id/12853420/  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 18 May 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8304/1/E-Jack-Nicklaus-will-build-Signature-Golf-Course-in-Croatia.html  Nicklaus will build course in CroatiaVartan Kupelian / The Detroit NewsJack Nicklaus was in Croatia last weekend for a meeting with Prime Minister Dr. Ivo Sanader in Zagreb, the capital city,where they announced the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course in that country. A contract signing ceremony Sundaylaunched the project at Porto Mariccio Resort, a community on the Istrian Peninsula.Nicklaus' design firm has courses open for play in 28 countries. Croatia will be No. 29, and 19 other countries are beingadded to the roster."This is one more country that five years ago we, as a firm, never dreamed we would have the opportunity to be involved in asfar as developing golf," said Tim Kenny, executive vice-president for Nicklaus Design.There are currently three courses in Croatia, but with the country being touted by National Geographic as a top destination, thenumber is sure to spiral.Tribute eventJay Delsing finished fifth last week at the Nationwide Tour's Rheem Classic. Delsing was the halfway leader. It's noteworthybecause Delsing was mourning the death of his father, Jim Delsing , who played center field for the Tigers years ago. Delsingplayed as a tribute to his father."I didn't feel much like playing golf I don't know what I'm feeling," Delsing said. "I've never experienced anything like thisbefore. It's obviously life-changing."Robbins to OpenKelly Robbins and Michelle Wie have accepted special exemptions for the 2006 U.S. Women's Open, June 29-July 2, atNewport (R.I.) Country Club.Robbins, 36, a Mt. Pleasant native, was exempt for the 2005 championship but had to withdraw due to a back injury thatcaused her to miss most of last year. Robbins has played in the Women's Open 14 times and has won more money,$805,695, than anyone who has not won the title.Million dollar manLoren Roberts won $88,000 with his third-place finish on the Champions Tour on Sunday and, in eight events, has gone overthe $1 million mark. That ties Roberts with Hale Irwin for the quickest to seven figures to start a season.Roberts, who has a game fit for the TPC of Michigan in Dearborn, site of the Ford Seniors Players Championship in July, has10 consecutive top-10 finishes dating back to last year.Moore returnsIf you're wondering what's become of Ryan Moore , the young golfer who turned professional last June and earned his PGATour playing card in just 10 starts, he's back. Moore had hand surgery early this year.He will tee it up this week at the Bank of America Colonial, seven weeks after the operation.Ferris secondFerris State's women's golf team placed second -- its best finish ever -- in the NCAA Division II championships Saturday atThe Meadows Golf Club in Allendale, Mich.The Bulldogs finished six shots behind Rollins (Fla.), which was at 919 (55-over-par) in the 54-hole event and won its fourthconsecutive national championship. Lynn (Fla.) was third and host Grand Valley State was fourth.Ferris junior Casey McKinnon (St. Ignace, Mich.) and senior Elena Robles tied for third overall at 10-over 226. FreshmanMeghan Hunter (Dexter, Mich.) was 13th at 237.http://www.detnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060516/SPORTS04/605160435/1048/SPORTS04  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 18 May 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8306/1/E-New-Night-Ferry-Services-in-Croatia.html  Night ferry services connecting islands to operate as of JuneZAGREB, April 20 (Hina) - The Croatian Government has decided that additional night ferry services be introduced for islands Cres/Losinj, Rab, Ugljan/Pasman, Brac and Hvar as of 1 June.The new lines will connect the islands with the mainland between 2300 hrs and 0400 hrs.The Ivo Sanader cabinet on Thursday decided to ensure 5.8 million kuna (approx. 789,000 euros) as state subsidies for this purpose. The new services will be in place through the whole year.|News|Hina| April 20, 2006 -  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 17 May 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8303/1/H-Arthur-Frommer-izdao-turisticki-vodic-za-Hrvatsku.html  Arthur Frommer izdao turistički vodič za HrvatskuWASHINGTON - Najpoznatiji američki turistički vodič Arthur Frommer's izdao je u ponedjeljak prvi svibnja i prvi samostalni vodič za Hrvatsku. U publikaciji "Frommer's Croatia" na 340 stranica su dane turističke destinacije u Hrvatskoj za svako godiÅ¡nje doba i svačiji džep. Autorica vodiča Karen Torme Olson započinje vodič s Dubrovnikom, predstavlja Dalmaciju i Istru, a nije propustila dati Amerikancima informacije i o kontinentalnoj Hrvatskoj, mjestima koja se mogu posjetiti u Zagrebu i okolici, Zagorju te Slavoniji i Podravini. Ovaj vodič će biti važno pomagalo američkim turistima i može potaknuti njihova putovanja u Hrvatsku. Frommerove vodiče američki turisti najčeÅ¡će koriste kao pouzdan izvor informacija kako za putovanja po Americi tako i inozemstvu. Na naslovnoj stranici vodiča je fotografija Dubrovnika s pogledom na katedralu, a u njemu je autorica uz korisne informacije i karte opisala zanimljivosti kojima je svjedočila putujući Hrvatskom. (Hina) letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 17 May 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/1/1/H-35-obljetnica-Hrvatske-Katolicke-Misije-u-New-Yorku.html Submitted by: fr. Robert Zubovic Date: Apr 28, 06 Category: Religion35. obljetnica Hrvatske Katolicke Misije u New Yorku   KONCERT: Povodom proslave 35. obljetnice Hrvatske Katolicke Misije u New Yorku na prigodan nacin bit ce obiljezena i 100-ta obljetnica rodjenja velikog hrvatskog skladatelja Borisa Papondopula. Na koncertu prije svecane mise njujorski ansambl "St. Raphael Cappella" izvest ce Papandopulovu skladbu Impresije za puhace. Bit ce izvedena i cuvena Sinfonietta op. 10 Lisztova ucenika i romanticnog skladatelja Joachima Raffa, jedno od monumentalnih djela za puhace. St. Raphael Cappella sastoji se od vrhunskih profesionalnih glazbenika Vojne Akademije SAD-a West Point kao i od povremenih clanova iz Julliard School of Music u New Yorku. Glazbeni ravnatelj i dirigent sastava je prof. Drago Bubalo, koji je od 1999. - 2003. djelovao u RH kao dirigent Orkestra Hrvatske vojske. MISA. Tijekom Svecane Sv. Mise pjevat ce se poznata Hrvatska Misa don Sime Marovica, kapelnika Splitske Katedrale. Misa je skladana za soliste, muski ansambl, mjesoviti zbor, orgulje i orkestar, te je praizvedena tijekom posjete Sv. Oca Ivana Pavla II Splitu 1998. godine. Nastupa Hrvatski Zbor u New Yorku (novi pjevacki sastav od 50-tak clanova kojeg je okupio zupnik don Robert Zubovic), Klapa Astoria, Rade .... i don Robert Zubovic kao solisti, a uz pratnju puhackog orkestra "St. Raphael Cappella" pod ravnanjem Drage Bubala. Formatted for CROWN by Nenad Bach   Distributed by CroatianWorld.net. This message is intended for Croatian Associations/Institutions and their Friends in Croatia and in the World. The opinions/articles expressed on this list do not reflect personal opinions of the moderator. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, please delete or destroy all copies of this communication and please, let us know! Ivobach2@aol.com (Ivo Bach) Sat, 29 Apr 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/1/1/H-35-obljetnica-Hrvatske-Katolicke-Misije-u-New-Yorku.html Submitted by: fr. Robert Zubovic Date: Apr 28, 06 Category: Religion35. obljetnica Hrvatske Katolicke Misije u New Yorku   KONCERT: Povodom proslave 35. obljetnice Hrvatske Katolicke Misije u New Yorku na prigodan nacin bit ce obiljezena i 100-ta obljetnica rodjenja velikog hrvatskog skladatelja Borisa Papondopula. Na koncertu prije svecane mise njujorski ansambl "St. Raphael Cappella" izvest ce Papandopulovu skladbu Impresije za puhace. Bit ce izvedena i cuvena Sinfonietta op. 10 Lisztova ucenika i romanticnog skladatelja Joachima Raffa, jedno od monumentalnih djela za puhace. St. Raphael Cappella sastoji se od vrhunskih profesionalnih glazbenika Vojne Akademije SAD-a West Point kao i od povremenih clanova iz Julliard School of Music u New Yorku. Glazbeni ravnatelj i dirigent sastava je prof. Drago Bubalo, koji je od 1999. - 2003. djelovao u RH kao dirigent Orkestra Hrvatske vojske. MISA. Tijekom Svecane Sv. Mise pjevat ce se poznata Hrvatska Misa don Sime Marovica, kapelnika Splitske Katedrale. Misa je skladana za soliste, muski ansambl, mjesoviti zbor, orgulje i orkestar, te je praizvedena tijekom posjete Sv. Oca Ivana Pavla II Splitu 1998. godine. Nastupa Hrvatski Zbor u New Yorku (novi pjevacki sastav od 50-tak clanova kojeg je okupio zupnik don Robert Zubovic), Klapa Astoria, Rade .... i don Robert Zubovic kao solisti, a uz pratnju puhackog orkestra "St. Raphael Cappella" pod ravnanjem Drage Bubala. Formatted for CROWN by Nenad Bach   Distributed by CroatianWorld.net. This message is intended for Croatian Associations/Institutions and their Friends in Croatia and in the World. The opinions/articles expressed on this list do not reflect personal opinions of the moderator. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, please delete or destroy all copies of this communication and please, let us know! Ivobach2@aol.com (Ivo Bach) Sat, 29 Apr 2006 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8307/1/E-Wanda-Radetti-Croatia-a-destination-for-baby-boomers.html  Wanda Radetti:Croatia a destination for baby boomers http://www.croatianworld.net/Letters/Wanda.pdf   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 22 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8309/1/E-Croatias-Tourism-Has-Great-Potential.html  Croatia's Tourism Has Great Potential - Austrian Minister Croatia has great potential in tourism, Austrian Economy and Labour Minister Martin Bartenstein told a news briefing in Vienna on Tuesday at the end of a two-day conference on tourism.The conference, called "Tourism and Culture - A Key to Development and Employment in Europe", pooled tourism ministers from European Union member-states, acceding countries, candidate countries including Croatia, western Balkan countries and officials from international organisations."The Dalmatian coast is splendid," Bartenstein said, adding that as soon Croatia joined the EU, the Dalmatian coast would enjoy great European prospects regarding tourism development.The State Secretary of the Croatian Tourism Ministry, Zdenko Micic, who led the Croatian delegation at the conference, agreed that Croatia had much to offer as regards tourism.Guenther Verheugen, the European Commission Vice President and Commissioner responsible for Enterprise and Industry, told the news conference that Croatia was making great headway in tourism development.Verheugen stressed that tourists who had spent their holiday in Croatia last year were not only Germans or guests from other Western European countries but also those from new EU member-states, including the Czech Republic, Hungary, Slovakia and Poland.This is the secret of success and it contributed to Croatia's success in tourism, he stressed.The conference was organised by current EU president Austria, Finland and the European Commission.Tuesday , 21 March 2006http://www.turkishweekly.net/news.php?id=28346  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 21 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8308/1/E-UK-lifts-visa-regime-for-Croatia.html  UK lifts visa regime for Croatia 01/03/2006(London/Zagreb, DTT-NET.COM)- After more than 6 years the United Kingdom visa regime for Croatia will be lifted on 22 March 2006, the embassy in Zagreb announced on Wednesday.According to the decision tourist, business and family visits for up to 6 months will NOT require a visa. Transit visas are abolished also and visas are not required for Croats who want to study for up to 6 months in the United Kingdom. Croats who intend to stay in the United Kingdom for a period of more than 6 months a visa will be required. However as with other non-EU citizens, Croatian citizens will be subject to immigration control on entering the UK and will have to satisfy the immigration authorities on entry that their visa complies with UK immigration law.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 20 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8310/1/E-Travel-to-Croatia-A-Beginners-Guide-by-Jeanne-Oliver.html  Travel to Croatia: A Beginner's GuideFebruary 28, 2006by Jeanne Oliver Croatia has quickly become Europe's hottest destination, and for good reason. The rocky coastline continues for 1778 kilometres and includes pine-fringed coves, wide sandy beaches and cozy inlets. As if that weren't enough, there are a good 1185 islands that range from lush and wooded to stark and hilly. Yachties love the sailing opportunities, sunbathers have an incredible choice of beaches and scuba divers have a paradise of sea life to explore. Beyond the pretty scenery, Croatia also boasts a fascinating history and cultural life.The walled city of Dubrovnik on its southern tip is a must-stop for Mediterranean cruises but the long coast is littered with remnants of Croatia's varied past. The Romans swept through two thousand years ago, leaving an amphitheatre in Pula and Diocletian's Palace in Split. Long ruled by Venice, many ports along the coast bear the distinctive imprint of its former master. In southern Dalmatia, the towns of Hvar and Korcula resemble Little Venices without the canals. In Istria, the striking bell tower in Rovinj is modeled after that on St Mark's Square in Venice. In contrast to the Italian-influenced coast, the Croatian interior was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire and looks it. Zagreb, Croatia's capital, has the kind of stately architecture that wouldn't be out of place in Vienna or Budapest. Plus,it has a small medieval quarter that vaguely resembles Prague.To the north of Zagreb, in the middle of green, rolling hills, lies Varazdin, Croatia's most underrated city. Lying too far from the coast to attract much tourism, Varazdin nevertheless boasts a stunningly well-preserved baroque center. So, what to see first? Following is my personal list of highlights for a Croatian visit: Dubrovnik Byron called it the "Pearl of the Adriatic" for the magnificent curtain of walls surrounding a city paved in marble and strewn with Renaissance sculpture. Hvar Town In addition to the splendid harbor promenade and sculptured facades, it's becoming known for the best nightlife on the Adriatic. Korcula Town It resembles Hvar in some ways, especially the narrow cluster of streets,but iit lies on a narrow peninsula and is quieter. Rovinj Istria's prettiest little town, it retains the flavor of a traditional fishing port despite the heavy influx of tourists in recent years. Plitvice Lakes National Park It has to be seen to be believed. The 16 turquose lakes seem to glow and there are waterfalls everywhere. It's a UNESCO world heritage site. Brela Beach The idyllic coves, bordered with pine trees, stretch out like a long necklace of beaches. Forbes magazine recently named it one of the top twenty beaches in the world. No matter where you go in Croatia, you'll find people eager to welcome tourists after the grueling war of the early 1990s. English is widely spoken and costs are comparatively reasonable compared to the rest of the European coast. So what are you waiting for? Jeanne Oliver is the author of this article. She has written all three editions of Lonely Planet's Croatia guidebook. To find out more about traveling to Croatia including accommodation, car rentals, ferry schedules and itineraries, visit Jeanne's website, http://www.croatiatraveller.com. This article represents the views and opinions of the author and not of www.dailyindia.com.http://www.dailyindia.com/show/4338.php   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 09 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8311/1/E-Easyjet-launches-more-flights-to-Croatia-from-Bristol.html  Easyjet launches more flights to CroatiaThursday, 09 Mar 2006 09:34 Split, Croatia, is an ideal point for exploring the islands of Hvar and Brac Printer friendly version Easyjet is launching cheap flights to a further five cities on top of last week's move into three new markets. Hot on the heels of its new route to Croatia's third largest city, Rijeka, the low-fares airline revealed it will be flying to Split, Croatia's second largest city after Zagreb, from May. The addition of Split to the airline's rosters is good news for holidaymakers, as the city is an ideal launch point for the exploration of Croatia's islands such as Hvar and Brac. Easyjet is also increasing its routes to France and Italy, with Ajaccio in Corsica, Bordeaux, La Rochelle and Rimini new destinations for the airline. It has added five new routes from Bristol to Rijeka, Toulouse, Krakow, La Rochelle and Marseille, and revealed plans to launch flights between Edinburgh and Alicante in the summer. "This is a significant announcement from Easyjet," said Andrew Harrison, Easyjet chief executive. "As well as adding a further Croatian city to the network, we are delighted to be growing even further at our Bristol base, from where we will carry almost three million passengers in the coming year." Easyjet's new routes London Gatwick to Split, Croatia – launches May 2nd, four times a week (Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat) with one-way fares from £25.99. London Luton to Bordeaux, France – launches June 29th, daily, with one-way fares starting from £25.99. London Luton to Rimini, Italy- launches June 29th, four times a week (Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun) with one-way fares starting from £25.99. Edinburgh to Alicante, Spain – launches May 20th, Saturdays only, with one-way fares starting from £30.99. Bristol to Toulouse, France – launches July 21st, daily, with one-way fares starting from £20.99. Bristol to Krakow, Poland – launches July 21st, four times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun), with one-way fares starting from £25.99. Bristol to La Rochelle, France – launches July 21st, four times a week (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun), with one-way fares starting from £20.99. Bristol to Marseille, France – launches July 22nd, three times a week (Tue, Thu, Sat), with one-way fares starting from £20.99. Bristol to Rijeka, Croatia – launches July 22nd, three times a week (Tue, Thu, Sat), with one-way fares starting from £25.99. Paris Orly to Ajaccio, Corsica – launches July 14th, daily, with one-way fares starting from €34.99. http://www.travelbite.co.uk/news/flights/cheap-flight/easyjet-launches-more-flights-croatia-france-and-italy-$314825.htmeasyJet announces MASSIVE expansion at Bristol with five exciting NEW routes /noticias.info/ easyJet, Europe's leading low-fares airline, is to launch five new routes from Bristol to Krakow, La Rochelle, Marseille, Rijeka (Croatia) and Toulouse this summer. These routes are the result of the introduction of a ninth aircraft being based at Bristol, bringing the total number of destinations served by easyJet to 30 and increasing the capacity at its Bristol base by almost 10%. The new routes to Krakow, La Rochelle, Marseille and Rijeka are not currently served by any other carrier from Bristol International airport. In the next 12 months, easyJet expects to carry some 300,000 passengers on these new routes and almost 3,000,000 in total from Bristol. The introduction of Bristol to Rijeka, Croatia's third-largest city is a new move for easyJet as it spreads its wings outside the EU for the first time. La Rochelle is also a completely new market for the low-fares airline to the vibrant French city, which is situated midway down France's Atlantic seaboard. Krakow, Marseille and Toulouse are currently served by the carrier from other UK airports and following their success easyJet is now introducing them to the Bristol region.All five destinations should prove popular with both business and leisure passengers, not only for Bristolians travelling abroad, but also for inbound passengers bringing business and tourism to the region. Last year easyJet converted its Bristol base to a solely Airbus operation, replacing the existing fleet of Boeing 737 aircraft with brand new Airbus 319s. This move reflects easyJet’s continued commitment to Bristol International Airport and the people of the south west. easyJet's Bristol operation now accounts for over almost 10% of its total network, making it the airline’s largest UK base outside of London with close to 70 daily departures and 8,500 passengers every day. easyJet also today announced new routes from Gatwick to Split (Croatia), Luton to Bordeaux and Rimini, Edinburgh to Alicante and Paris Orly to Ajaccio (Corsica). Toby Nicol, easyJet Communications Director commented: “Bristol’s largest airline is delighted to be announcing more routes to more destinations once again. easyJet is the only airline to offer low-cost flights with both care and convenience for its customers – no wonder almost 3 million people will fly with us from Bristol over the course of the next year.” Tony Hallwood, Aviation Development Director at Bristol International said: "This is fantastic news for Bristol, with easyJet having once again reinforced their commitment to grow their business in the south west. By introducing five new routes this summer they now offer an unrivalled choice of exciting destinations for leisure and business travellers. "Poland has been top of the airport’s ‘wish list’ over the last 12 months and we are pleased that Krakow (a World Heritage City) will be our launch gateway. The increasing numbers of Poles who live in the south west have been instrumental in supporting the airport in securing this route and we look forward to the inbound tourism potential that this route will now offer."Rijeka in Croatia is an up-and-coming destination with an attractive coastline and alongside La Rochelle on France’s Atlantic coast, we believe both will be firm favourites with holidaymakers and second home-owners. Meanwhile, the introduction of Marseille, France’s second largest city will provide key business links to the south west and additional Toulouse capacity will be welcomed by aerospace industry and leisure customers alike." http://www.noticias.info/asp/aspComunicados.asp?nid=152126&src=0  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 08 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8312/1/E-Economical-Croatia-a-good-spring-break.html  Economical Croatia a good spring break  The ancient walled town of Dubrovnik is a magnet for visitors to CroatiaPhoto-Ken Krueger  Economical Croatia a good spring break By Sandra Harper-Contributing writer If thoughts of a holiday are tickling your fancy during the dreary winter months, Croatia should be first on your list. A flight to England or Europe, followed by a short flight or a drive from Italy or Austria, and you are in Croatia-a country that combines beauty with a palette of activities. From April to November, a visitor has lots of fun choices. Sun and swim on fabulous beaches lapped by the crystal clean water of the Adriatic Sea. Explore the historic ancient walled town of Dubrovnik, which is still the home and working place of Croatians. Sail or cruise among some of the mainly uninhabited string of 280 islands along the coast. Spend time on one of the islands, like Korcula, settled by the ancient Greeks in the 6th century. Visit wineries and taste wine until your head spins. Climb an ancient wall at Mali Ston that is only somewhat shorter than the Great Wall of China. Climb mountains, golf, bike, visit the neighbouring countries of Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Or just sit and bask in the sun in one of the many town squares or islands. Last October I flew from Vancouver to Manchester and then on to Dubrovnik for a sun-filled week of exploring Croatia in 20- to 22-degree temperature. Using that route meant a more economical ticket. The summer rush of European tourists was over by early September so I did not pre-book accommodation. There is a wide choice in Croatia: hotels, apartments to rent, charming rooms in private homes called sobes, campsites and the most beautiful hostel. Getting off the airport bus at the Pile Gates of the old town of Dubrovnik, I was greeted by men and women with signs indicating that they had rooms available. I walked to the tourist information office and the staff there sent me round the corner to Atlas Travel where I rented a very large bedroom-sitting room with an enormous bath in a 16th-century house just outside the town walls-for 30 Euros a night. I was delighted with my room and with the 80-year-old landlady and her granddaughter, who shared their experiences and information. My room contained 17th-century furniture and number of large paintings from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Rather than renting a car or taking the local buses, I used the local Atlas tour agency to book three day-tours. The first went to the fabulous Korcula Island, combined with Mali Ston wall climbing and a visit to a winery, followed by a day tour of the high mountain and uninhabited beaches of Montenegro. It finished with an eye-opening trip to war-torn Moster in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Tours ranged around 45 Euros. Local buses for local travel cost about two Euros and were easy to use. That left me with four days to explore the old town and the new area around the inner harbour of Dubrovnik and visit the small island of Lokrum-just a 15-minute ferry ride from the old harbour of Dubrovnik-to explore the botanical gardens and get lost in the ancient forest. Local boats ferried visitors to a small village of Cavtat-another Greek settlement and a smaller, charming version of Dubrovnik. Meals were delightful and varied. I particularly savoured the mussels, squid, steak and ham. Pizzas and vegetarian meals were tasty and easily available. A glass of Croatian wine or beer always accompanied the food. People are polite, kind and welcoming. They speak English, French, Italian and German. Crime appears rare, although police were not obvious. The waters of the Adriatic Sea are refreshing and inspiring. Crowds of tourists come in July and August so there is still an off-season. Prices, in Kunas, are reasonable right now, but that will change in a couple of years when Croatia joins the European Union. Dubrovnik is a jewel of a city. No wonder people have been visiting and staying since 1000 BC. published on 01/27/2006 http://www.vancourier.com/issues06/014206/travel.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 13 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8314/1/E-AHOY-CROATIAN-SAILORS.html  AHOY CROATIAN SAILORS!By Katarina TepeshA group of Americans, all members of an environmental group, are organizing to sail from the port of Split, Croatia on Saturday, June 24th and return the next Saturday, July 1st, 2006. We will visit the islands of Brac, Hvar, and Vis, spending one or two days in each port with some flexibility in our itinerary depending on weather and our whims.The yacht we have chartered is a new 50 ft. Bavaria which is richly appointed. The vessel has 5 staterooms which will accommodate a maximum of 10 crew members. There is a roomy galley and gorgeous salon where we will prepare and take our meals together communally. The cabins with separate single berths are $995 PP, DO. The double berth staterooms which are a little larger are $1,050 PP, DO. A private double stateroom is $1,895, for seven nights with partial provisioning as outlined above.We will have 7 nights aboard which will include all breakfasts and 3 lunches, 3 dinners. Other meals will be taken ashore in the quaint harbors that we visit. All crew members are invited to participate in the running of the boat. The Captain Michael Miller is a US sailing Association Certified Sail Instructor and enjoys teaching beginners. No sailing experience is required to join the crew.Croatia has an incredibly diverse history from the many civilizations that have ruled it over thousands of years. Split has Diocletian's palace which was built for the Roman emperor. The city of Dubrovnik to the south was completely walled in for defense. The country is a historical treasure. Now that peace has been restored, it is just being rediscovered as amazing tourism destination. The islands are said to be majestically beautiful with each having its own unique personality. If interested, you are welcome to call or write Michael Miller, to answer any further questions. Captain Michael Miller, USCG Licensed Master9 Court AveGreenwood Lake, New York 10925Tel: 845 477 3497Cell: 845 494 4083  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 12 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8313/1/E-Dubrovnik-Live-webcam.html  Dubrovnik Live. You want to see waht is happening on Stradun...click.Zelite vidjeti tko pije kavu na Stradunu..kliknitehttp://www.dubrovnik.hr/webcam.htm  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 11 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8315/1/E-Tour-to-Croatia-this-coming-April-24---May-1.html  Tour to Croatia this coming April 24 - May 1As a tour coordinator for Marshall Field's Travel Service, I have put together an overview tour to Croatia this coming April 24 - May 1, to Zagreb and Dubrovnik. And as a thrid-generation Croatian, I am pleased to present Croatia to the traveling public, now that it has become as popular as it has. Although this tour is not designed for those 1st and 2nd generation Croatians, with immediate family in Croatia, or who have traveled there often, it is designed for those of Croatian descent who have heard stories from their grandparents and the like, and who would like to go back to the "old" country to see it's beauty, charm, and experience the food, wine and the people that make this country so wonderful. I would like your help in trying to get this tour information out to as many people as possible, and would like to find out your thoughts on the best way to promote this. Details on the tour can be found on our website at www.travel.fields.com . If anyone has any questions, they could contact me at 612-375-3631 for more information.Hvala...jim gladjglad@mftravel.com CroNetwork: The Croatian-American Organization for Young Professionals.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 26 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8321/1/E-Croatia---the-Most-Desirable-Destination-in-2006-for-American-Travelers.html  Croatia - the Most Desirable Destination in 2006 for American Travelers Jan 17, 06 | 7:47 amAccording to the recent survey of the USTOA, the hottest new tourist destination for 2006 is Croatia! National Geographic Adventure also awarded Croatia as The Best Destination for this year. Followed by the last year’s great success after it was proclaimed No. 1 destination by the Lonely Planet, this year should definitely bring new record numbers for the Croatian tourism. For more info visit www.ustoa.com  2006 the Year of Croatian InventorsOne of Croatia’s most well-known and world-renowned scientist and inventor Nikola Tesla,was born on July 10, 1856 in Smiljan, a small village near Gospic, in the region of Lika. Croatia will be celebrating the 150th anniversary of his birth with numerous manifestations, scientific meetings, lectures and other festivities. Slavoljub Penkala was holder of over 70 patents among which in 1906 he created the first mechanical pencil, which became known as ballpoint pen; 2006 is a 100 year anniversary of this invention. City of Rijeka – January and February Reserved for the Carnival Rijeka is all the more affirming itself as a city of culture, Carnivals and fun. The 3rd biggest international Carnival in the world takes place every year in Rijeka with over 10,000 masqueraders and carnival groups. They all come to follow the Carnival events, characterized by a particular blend of Europe’s urban and rural carnival traditions. The jam packed program starts at the beginning of January and lasts up to the end of February.Many hotel facilities in Rijeka, like completely renovated Hotel Jadran, await its guests. The hotel now offers 66 rooms and three suites with the vast majority of which have seafront views. The hotel is located directly adjacent to the sea, its foundations being in fact dug deep underwater and its view extends to the neighboring Kvarner Bay. Four star rating placed Hotel Jadran at the head of Rijeka’s hotels. This is one of the oldest hotels in the city that opened back in 1914. Reconstructed façade and the walls look exactly the same as they did decades ago, so hotel again looks truly luxurious outside as well as inside.For those who enjoy good maritime cuisine and appreciate a great view, Arca Fiumana ship anchored in Rijeka city harbor is the place to go. This will in near future be Croatia’s first floating hotel. For now it features restaurant and a pub that became a guarantee of good time in Rijeka.For more info visit www.tz-rijeka.hr Newly Refurbished Westin Hotel in ZagrebCity of Zagreb welcomed 2006 with a newly renovated Westin Hotel. This luxurious five star landmark hotel is a part of the world-renown Starwood Hotels & Resorts chain. Its 378 rooms are all equipped with legendary “Heavenly Beds and Showers” and a total of 13 congress halls in the city core will provide memorable experiences for both business and leisure travelers. For more info visit www.westin.com/zagreb Small and Family Run HotelsOver the past few years Croatia has seen especially intense growth in the Small and Family Hotels sector. Some 150 of these hotels, most gathered under the umbrella of the Association of Family and Small Hotels of Croatia, offer an atmosphere, comfort and quality that reflects the local color and blends tradition with family setting. Given the dynamics of their growth over the past few years, estimates say their number in Croatia may grow by 50 to 100 small hotels a year. For more info visit www.omh.hr Zagreb - Romance in the City of HeartsThe Regent Esplanade Zagreb brings back tradition spiced with contemporary luxury with its special “Romance in the City of Hearts” package. The package consists of: Two-nights in a luxurious double room, breakfast served in the room, bottle of champagne, bouquet of roses, welcoming relaxing bubble bath, sightseeing tour of Zagreb by limousine and a romantic candlelit dinner. For more info visit www.regenthotels.com Substantial Capital Investment in Cultural HeritageCroatian Ministry of Culture announced large capital investments in order to increase the number of cultural facilities in the country. Three new museums will open this year and another five will be constructed. Many of the existing museums, public libraries, theatres and castles will get capital investments that will improve the overall appearance of the Croatian cultural treasures. For more info visit www.min-kulture.hr Moderna Galerija ZagrebThe Moderna Galerija Zagreb (Modern Gallery Zagreb) is open once more after the 11 year closing and its total reconstruction. It reopened on December 29, 2005 with the slogan “100 years of Modern Gallery, 200 years of Croatian Art”. This slogan was chosen because up to now nowhere in Croatia was there an exhibit which covered 200 years of Croatian art. The new exhibition celebrates the Croatian Art with 153 paintings, sculptures, photography and videos. It is a must see Gallery in Zagreb. For more info contact cntony@earthlink.net Croatia a Growing Destination for Cruise ShipsThe appeal of Croatia as a tourist destination has found further confirmation in the growing number of cruise ships making stops here. There were more than 450 ships in 2005, which is up around 11% over figures from the last year. Total of around 500,000 passengers sailed on these ships. Top destinations was Dubrovnik, followed by Korcula, Hvar, Split and Sibenik. For more info contact cntony@earthlink.netBritish Airways - Top Recognition for Dubrovnik Airport British Airways has recently awarded Dubrovnik Airport a special recognition for top results in flight and passenger arrival and departure services. Out of 65 international airports to which British Airways flies, Dubrovnik Airport got top marks. The airport was monitored over an 18 month period during which time Dubrovnik Airport recorded top marks deservedly winning the recognition. For more info visit www.visitdubrovnik.hr Sljeme for Skiers and HikersSljeme, the highest peak on Zagreb’s Medvednica highlands will this coming February see the re-opening of the Old Scouts House now completely redesigned and converted into a four star apartment facility that will operate under the name of Snjezna kraljica (The Snow Queen). It will feature one eight-bed and 16 four-bed suites catering to skiers and hikers. Besides its lodgings the building will have a large restaurant featuring traditional local cuisine, as well as small wellness center with sauna and whirlpool. With the runs outfitted with snow canons, ski season on Sljeme lasts at least to the end of March. For more info visit www.sljeme.hr http://travelvideo.tv/news/more.php?id=7812_0_1_0_M  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 17 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8320/1/E-Croatia-improves-tourism-infrastructure.html  Croatia improves tourism infrastructure Jul 07, 05More than eight million foreign tourists visited Croatia last year and the Croatian government is expecting more than 10 million in the next years. Thanks to the country’s supportive tourism private sector in tourism for efforts in improving the industry’s infrastructure.HotelsPrivate and state investors spent 400 million euro last winter for hotel modernization older and construction. New small hotels, summerhouses, camping sites and restaurants infrastructure were established as a result. Previously state-owned hotels have also been revamped to meet international standards. Melia Sol and Thomas Cook are two examples. AirportsThe government announced it will bring financial support for the construction of six new airfields, a 800-meter runway of 800 meters private airplanes, air taxi and rescue flights to the mainland and for short commuter air traffic to existing international airports.AirlinesCroatia is celebrating the creation of two new air carriers. Sun Adria Airlines, based in the Croatian capital Zagreb, started the scheduled flights to several European destinations, including Germany, using two Fokker 100 in the fleet. Dubrovnik Airline, based in Dubrovnik and jointly founded by the Croatian Atlantic Shipping Company and Dubrovnik Airport Authority, is providing summer charters and scheduled using MD-83s. A third carrier, named European Coastal Airlines, is expected to be established within the next few weeks. HighwaysThe 380 kilometers long highway across mountain terrains between capital Zagreb and Split, the most important tourism center, finally opened June 29. Work is set to begin on Dubrovnik highway.Croatia is a relatively small (56,500 square kilometers and 4.49 million inhabitants) independent post communist country (former a part of Yugoslavia) in southeast Europe at Adriatic Sea. Tourism contribution to the country’s GDP is approximately 20 percent. Picturesque fishing villages, old antique and medieval towns with unique architecture are among its tourist attractions.By Jan BlazejZagreb, Croatia (eTurboNews)http://travelvideo.tv/news/more.php?id=5842_0_1_0_M136  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 17 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8317/1/E-USA-Today-Six-destinations-to-keep-on-your-radar-for-2006.html  Six destinations to keep on your radar for 2006By Jessica Labrencis, SmarterTravel.com The new year brings with it up-and-coming destinations worth keeping on your travel radar as you begin to plan your vacations for 2006. From destinations in the U.S. to those in Europe and even farther afield, several factors influenced our choices, including cultural events, political changes, increasing popularity and major rebuilding. Our picks for the top six destinations to watch for 2006 are Albuquerque, China, Croatia, Thailand, The Netherlands and Turkey.CroatiaCroatia is the latest country in Europe with "hidden gem" status. However, according to the United States Tour Operators Association (USTOA), Croatia began experiencing a boom in tourism in 2005, one that is likely to increase even more over the next few years. This Mediterranean country has plenty of things to offer visitors, from its capital city, Zagreb, to the islands scattered along the Dalmatian Coast, and the old city of Dubrovnik, a UNESCO World Heritage site.At the time of publication, mainstream vacation-package providers had not yet begun offering many Croatia packages. However, booking airfare and accommodations separately allows for greater freedom in traveling the country and selecting hotels. As an added benefit, Croatia is not in the European Union, so prices in the Croatian kuna may not be as expensive the prices listed in euros in other European countries.AlbuquerqueAlbuquerque is celebrating its tricentennial on April 23 and will host a series of special events January through October. Each month has a theme, including Theatre Arts Month in March, History and Education Month in April, and Cuisine Specialties and Albuquerque's Future Path in August.In addition, the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History is hosting three exhibitions of Spanish art featuring artists that include Dali, Miro and Picasso. The exhibits run through April 23.Albuquerque will also host its 34th annual International Balloon Fiesta Oct. 6-15, the largest balloon event in the world. This nine-day festival features a 400- to 500-balloon nighttime "Balloon Glow," "Balloon-Shape Rodeo," and balloon race.Albuquerque is always a relatively affordable destination, with most of the major airlines, as well as low-fare carriers Frontier and Southwest, offering service to its airport.ChinaChina has long been a popular travel destination, with more than 30 UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the Great Wall. In coming years, however, tourism is expected to rapidly increase, with the 2008 Summer Olympics and several other factors.The Olympics will be held in and around Beijing, and will attract thousands of visitors from all corners of the globe. In addition, business travel to China has been rapidly increasing for several years, with major hotel chains constructing huge new hotels catering to business travelers. As China emerges as an economic powerhouse, tourism is expected to keep up with the pace.The World Travel and Tourism Council estimates that tourism spending in China will increase about 3.5 times by 2014, from $87 billion to more than $300 billion. And a New York Times report stated that Internet sites offering bilingual searches will begin to make planning travel inside China less daunting.Planning a vacation to China can be as easy as planning one to Europe or the Caribbean. U.S.-based package tour providers including Go-today, Gate1Travel and Pleasant Holidays have begun offering a wide variety of China vacations, giving travelers plenty of package options from which to choose.ThailandA little more than a year after the tsunami disaster, Thailand is continuing to encourage visitors to return. Not surprisingly, tourism in 2005 was sluggish but began increasing toward the end of the year. Tourism in 2006 is expected to compete with pre-tsunami levels by November 2006. Therefore, visiting Thailand before November will give tourists the advantage of fewer crowds and lower prices, particularly at beach resorts.Thailand is still rebuilding, however, as inhabitants re-create what was destroyed in December 2004. Fewer hotel rooms are available to tourists in some areas, and evidence of the devastation leaves a reminder of the tsunami. One of the most important ways to help Thailand is to visit, helping to pump dollars into its tourist infrastructure so it can successfully rebuild sooner rather than later.The NetherlandsThe year 2006 is being dubbed "Rembrandt 400" in the Netherlands. This year marks the anniversary of the Dutch artist's 400th birthday, and year-long celebrations will take place around the country. The exhibitions are expected to draw about 1.5 million visitors from around the Netherlands and abroad.Amsterdam is hosting the bulk of the exhibitions, with special shows featuring Rembrandt at the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum, the Rembrandt House Museum and others; a Rembrandt musical at the Royal Theatre Carre; and a Rembrandt walking route.Leiden, Rembrandt's childhood hometown, is also partaking in the events with several major exhibitions and another Rembrandt walking route. The Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague is also featuring a Rembrandt exhibit that boasts 10 of the artist's most famous works.Several vacation providers are currently offering deals on Amsterdam vacations, including EuropeASAP, Gate1Travel and Go-today. Gate1Travel is also offering a special Rembrandt 400 package that includes airfare, accommodations and admission to the Rijksmuseum.TurkeyAs Turkey's attempts to join the European Union are met with resistance by some Europeans, its leaders are planning to strengthen the country's image by increasing the promotion of tourism in 2006. Although Turkey is already popular with European visitors (out of the 22 million visitors to Turkey in 2005, 12 million were Europeans), Americans have been slower in their eagerness to visit (more than 334,000 visitors in 2005).However, Turkey's Ministry of Culture and Tourism reports approximately 555,000 Americans are expected to visit the country in 2006, and it's not hard to imagine the numbers will climb in the years to come.Turkey's location gives it a unique blend of Eastern and Western influences making it appealing to tourists. It is home to no less than nine UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, the cavetowns of Cappodocia and the archeological site of Troy. To meet the increased demand from tourists, a new international airport terminal is being planned, along with 10 new resorts in key tourist areas.If you decide to visit Turkey, it's smart to strike while the iron is hot. Because tourism is just now beginning to significantly increase, you're stilllikely to find relatively inexpensive in-country rates for accommodations and activities. However, it's conceivable that Turkey's relatively undiscovered status will be fleeting, and the country will experience an increase in both tourism and prices.http://www.usatoday.com/travel/deals/inside/2006-01-10-inside-the-deals_x.htm   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 17 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8316/1/E-Make-love-not-war.html  Make love not war     http://www.shepsplace.net/croatia/index.htm  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 17 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8319/1/E-New-flights-from-Edinburgh-to-Pula.html  New flights are set to be a crowd Pula EDINBURGH Airport will offer flights to two more new holiday destinations this summer, including a first service to Croatia. City-based Flyglobespan has announced it will provide a weekly service to Mahon in Menorca, as well as the first flights to the increasingly popular Croatian resort of Pula. The service to the Balearic island will provide the first non-chartered flights to Menorca, allowing customers to book flights without them being part of a package holiday. The Croatia flights also add to the range of worldwide destinations on offer at the airport, and join other new routes announced this year, including Helsinki in Finland, Warsaw in Poland and Geneva in Switzerland. Flights to Mahon will start at £35.99, while Pula fares begin at £59.99, both including tax. Both services begin in May and will run to October, taking the company's portfolio of destinations for this summer to 13. The low-cost operator, which launched in 2002 and is one of Britain's fastest-growing airlines, said that if demand for the flights was high, it would consider adding both to their list of year-round destinations.http://edinburghnews.scotsman.com/business.cfm?id=74872006    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 16 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8318/1/E-New-flights-from-Glasgow-to-Pula.html  City gets more sunshine flights FLYGLOBESPAN today unveiled new sunshine flights from Glasgow Airport. The Scots budget airline announced the city's first scheduled flights to the increasingly popular Croatian hotspot of Pula. And it said it would also lay on budget scheduled services to family favourite Menorca. Both services will operate weekly from May to October to cater for the holiday trade. They bring the total number of destinations offered by flyglobespan from Glasgow this year to 20. One-way flights to the Menorcan capital Mahon will cost £35.99, while Pula fares will be £59.99, including taxes. Flyglobespan chairman Tom Dalrymple said: "These are two exciting new destinations for our customers. "We've always had a strong presence in Majorca so adding a Menorca flight seems very logical. "We are delighted to add Pula to our destinations. The Croatian holiday market is really booming and I'm sure these flights will prove popular." Pula is at the top of the Adriatic, at the heart of some of Europe's most stunning coastal scenery. Glasgow already has direct flights to Dubrovnik, further down the Dalmatian coast. Flyglobespan said it would also offer the new routes from Edinburgh Airport. And sales of its new daily flights from Glasgow to Orlando are continuing to boom, sparking talk in industry circles of more transatlantic services. Bosses at Glasgow Airport are eager for good news, as the airport lost its lifeline business link to Brussels last week. Its interim managing director, Alan Barr, said: "The addition of Pula is sure to attract even more interest in flights to Croatia. We're confident Mahon will also prove a popular family holiday destination." Publication date 16/01/06 http://www.eveningtimes.co.uk/hi/news/5047917.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 16 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8322/1/E-Vjeko-Martinko--Lovranske-Ville-on-US-TV-Jan-15.html  Vjeko Martinko & Lovranske Ville on the US TV Jan 15  Dear Mr. Bach and CROWN readers,We would like to inform you that on Sunday, January 15th, at 01:00 pm. will be the broadcasting of the TV Documentary on Croatian Tourism which includes a journalistic interview with Mr. Martinko. It will be broadcasted on the TV Station MHz TV Networks ( http://www.mhznetworks.org/programming/shows/ ), Washington, USA. If the network is available in N.Y. we are inviting you to view the documentary. We would also like to ask if you could be so kind and pass this information to anyone you know that might be intrested in viewing it.  DIRECTV       56 or 972*  Find your carrier: http://www.mhznetworks.org/programming/carrier   Sunny greetings from Lovran,Alin Zivanovic (For Mr. Martinko)Hotel Restaurant 'Villa Astra'Viktora Cara Emina 11HR - 51415 Lovran, CroatiaTel: +385 51 29 44 00Fax: +385 51 29 46 00www.lovranske-vile.com villa.astra@lovranske-vile.com member of:Schlosshotels und Herrenhäuserwww.schlosshotels.co.at Historic Hotels of Europewww.historichotelsofeurope.com   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8323/1/E-MONET-cruise-along-Croatias-Dalmation-coast.html  MONET cruise along Croatia's Dalmation coast A cruise along Croatia's Dalmation coast By: RALPH COLLIER, Main Line Times12/20/2005For more information about M/Y MONET, please contact Elegant Cruises and Tours at 1-800-683-6767 or visit www.elegantcruises.com . The M/Y MONET offers a sweet sampling of the advantages of cruising on a small, intimate ship rather than the usual huge, impersonal vessels. She is dockside in Venice as 50 odd passengers climb aboard. (There are only 30 cabins, total.) Among them, there are the customary first-time sailors. On their anxiety scale, where "1" is "no sweat" and "10" "no fingernails to gnaw," the mix of Brits and Americans give her a comfortable "2" rating.The M/Y MONET is bound for the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. Mention the area to locals here and they'll reference the Komati Islands, which lie just off the coast. The Komatis make up by far the largest archipelago around wild, deserted slivers of windswept rock dotted with salt lakes and sheer cliffs emerging from the limpid Adriatic. The islands are a superb destination for hiking, swimming, and at other times of the year, sunbathing. Unlike large cruise ships, the M/Y MONET's tariff is all-inclusive; there are no side excursions or other extras. Bottled water in staterooms is gratis, and throughout the day and night, coffee and tea are available with delectable pastries from the MONET mess. There are lectures by university professors, local musical talent and the ship's own pianist. Irving Berlin wrote the song "I Love a Piano," but the musician plays a synthesizer, suggesting to one passenger that Berlin could not have written the same ode to that instrument. One of the first ports of call is a city named Split in Croatia. As is custom when the MONET approaches her harbor, a local pilot boat comes alongside to place one of her pilots aboard the MONET bridge to guide her safely to the docking facility. They know not just the treacherous tides, but local currents and tiny adjustments needed to dock the ship. Split, just off the Dalmatian coast, reveals a shimmering shoreline; it is dubbed "the new Riviera" as the bloody wars of the 1990s that accompanied the breakup of Yugoslavia recede into European history. A number of international luminaries, arriving on their own yachts, have dropped anchor here recently. By day, there are fishing boats galore along with massive yachts, and everywhere, there are the doughty little tugboats that look like a child's toy but do a man's work -- or, more precisely, the work of a stallion. There is a rich diversity of accessible and relatively affordable attractions ashore. (Local currency is the Kuna, which is more sympathetic to the U.S. dollar than the Euro.) All of this makes for an even more welcoming port. Winter and spring are excellent times to enjoy the Croatian islands. (The M/Y MONET resumes cruises on March 15, 2006.) In Croatian towns, the tourist is struck by the simple beauty of it all and wonders how it might just have felt to be here only a decade ago, when the world abandoned this lovely spot on earth and its people bombed, shot and raided one another's meager territory in a ruthless rush for power and control. Given the size of M/Y MONET, there is but a single seating at breakfast, lunch and dinner. At some tables, at dinner, conversation does not flow with the drink; it drowns in it. Red and white wine are poured by waiters as though the beverages are going out of style, and since it is free as part of the cruise, some passengers tend to imbibe to their heart's content at lunch and dinner. The well-known oil tycoon Nubar Gulbenkian said some winters ago that the best number for a dinner party is two - "myself and a good waiter." He would have been charmed by the waitstaff on this ship, who are attentive and simpatico. After a few days aboard ship, American passengers tend to love them and speak of them as being almost one of the family, rather in the manner that they speak of their pets. The more reserved British aboard show considerably less spontaneity.Three times daily, passengers are warmly greeted by a uniformed host, a bronzed, handsomely weathered, robust looking gent with a gutteral accent and suave demeanor. The ship's cook is not the ordinary chef-de-cuisine, for the chef goes public at breakfast and at later meals briefly visits the tables in the Nymphea Restaurant to determine how the evening's efforts went over. Both chef and menu get high ratings throughout the two- week voyage. The food aboard the M/Y MONET is always decent, often delicious, at times superb, making this ship's culinary efforts among the best on the high seas. A ship like the MONET turns out to be the perfect size for calling at small island ports and coastal towns of Dalmatia. She has only outside cabins. In tune with her name, there are countless superb replicas of Monet oil paintings in cabins. The Giverny Lounge also has numerous photos of the painter in his atelier, gardens and in the bosom of his extended family. It is significant that Claude Monet himself was in Venice at this time of the season exactly 93 years ago. He made just one painting trip to the shores of southern Europe, and his experiences at Bordighera, a picturesque resort near the Italian border, marked one of the crucial stages in his long trajectory as an artist. For more information about M/Y MONET, please contact Elegant Cruises and Tours at 1-800-683-6767 or visit www.elegantcruises.com . Ralph Collier used the Lonely Planet Guide to Croatia while cruising the Dalmatian coast on the MONET. Log on to www.LonelyPlanet.com , or call 1-800-275-8555. Ralph Collier is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers and the International Food, Wine and Travel Writers Association.http://www.zwire.com/site/news.cfm?newsid=15785752&BRD=1676&PAG=461&dept_id=43790&rfi=6   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 03 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8324/1/E-101-Dalmatias-Adriatic-coast-of-Croatia-displays-endless-variety-of-.html  101 Dalmatias: Adriatic coast of Croatia displays endless variety of sights and experiences Sunday, December 25, 2005    LopudMelissa Burdick Harmon, Post-GazetteThe serene Adriatic island of Lopud basks in the warmth of a summer day. By Melissa Burdick Harmon, Travel Arts SyndicateDALMATIAN COAST, Croatia -- The clean, rich smell of pine fills the air.Old-fashioned, loosely stacked dry stone walls form lazy borders for fields blanketed in vivid pink and yellow wildflowers.Far below, a brilliant blue bay glimmers in the sun, its surface punctuated by twin sailboats making their serene way to the next deserted beach or quiet cove. Aside from a bit of birdsong, there is not a sound to be heard.Dubrovnik, Croatia Melissa Burdick Harmon, Post-GazetteClimbing Dubrovnik's ramparts gives a birds-eye view of this small, self-contained city in Croatia.Christopher Hague, walk manager for my Wayfarers journey along the Dalmatian Coast, breaks the silence. "This is my idea of paradise," he says. "This is Shakespeare's 'Tempest.' "It is, in fact, the no-cars-allowed island of Lopud, one of the green Elaphite Islands that punctuate the waters around the medieval fortress city of Dubrovnik, the heart of Croatia's Dalmatian Coast. Lopud may not be Prospero's island, but in spirit it is very close.I have come here with a group of 15 Americans, part of a nine-day organized walk along the coast and nearby islands in the Adriatic Sea. The trip, operated by the Wayfarers, a British-owned walking tour company, promises six to 10 miles of walking a day, while seeing the sights, mingling with the locals and enjoying fine food and wine and good hotels. On this early day of our journey -- in the off season, when the tourist hordes are still at home -- they are clearly making good on those promises.In fact, our walk on Lopud takes us along a dirt trail to the private home of a woman who speaks no English, but greets us with a wide smile, serves us homemade wine and allows us to picnic beneath her grape arbor. Then she takes us to meet her goats.If the Dalmatian Coast is a red-hot tourist destination these days, Dubrovnik, a jewel of a city ringed by powerful -- and delightfully climbable -- medieval ramparts leads the list for visitor numbers. That is good news, since this UNESCO World Heritage Site was seriously damaged in the 1991-93siege. Its restoration has been both swift and careful.The patchwork of roofs seen as we traverse the ramparts gives a clue to the extent of the war damage. Red shingles are new replacements, donated by UNESCO. Crazy-quilt red-green-and-white shingles predate the war, and we see precious few of them.The winding drive north along the coast, toward Split, is reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast, with the road forming a dividing line between mountains swooping toward the sea and tiny red-roofed and multi-steepled villages tucked along the coves and beaches below. For 10 miles we are actually in Bosnia and Herzegovina, a post-war move to grant them a tiny patch of access to the coast.A stop at Ston, a salt-producing center for eons, lets us climb part of a wall that formed the old Republic of Dubrovnik's northern defense, then stroll to a hidden beach where we are rewarded by sweet, briny Ston oysters, among the world's best.By now, over oysters and huge salads and just-caught fish, it is apparent that our group of Wayfarers has bonded. Conversations are lively, covering everything from world affairs to theater to medicine to Victorian novels.Confidences are shared, and friendships have formed. On this trip, the participants are definitely a positive part of the experience.Split, Croatia's very Italian-feeling second-largest city, has a lively, chaotic charm. A twilight stroll along the Riva, the promenade at water's edge, captures the romance of the town, with its Roman and Venetian architecture and virtually its entire population -- or so it seems -- taking the evening air in the outdoor cafes.This is a European city on a European coast, living with its back to the Balkans. Its ties with Italy are strong, but the Croats work harder at it, which might explain why the pizza, gnocchi and gelato are better here.Split's not-to-be-missed site is the vast third-century palace built by the Roman Emperor Diocletian, a complex character whose main hobbies were growing cabbages and murdering Christians. He occupied the front part of the palace with his (Christian) wife and daughter, while some 700 courtiers lived in the back.Over the centuries, local people moved inside the palace walls, dividing the grand rooms into hundreds of small apartments. Today Diocletian's Palace is a warren of shops and pubs and open-air markets -- a vibrant, bustling heart-of-the-city where 2,000 people live and work. Its Cathedral of St. Domnius, formerly Diocletian's mausoleum, is not to be missed. (His portrait in stone can still be seen on one high wall.)If chaotic Split stimulates the mind, then an off-season visit to Brac, one of the largest of Croatia's Adriatic Islands, soothes the soul. Roaming down stony mule tracks, we encounter a few of these less-than-lively work animals tied to trees, too bored to care. A red rooster sporting an enormous comb strides onto the path -- checking out the interlopers. A friendly dog tags along.We climb a mountain to see vast quarries of white, crystallized limestone, just like the stone shipped from Brac long ago to build the White House. We visit the island's surprisingly good small museum and peek into tiny churches and shops we pass.Another day, we follow a track along the sea bluffs, gazing past trim vineyards and through groves of olive and almond trees, with their gnarled, ancient-looking trunks. A hand-painted sign points the way to a waterside restaurant, otherwise reachable only by boat, where we tuck into some fresh mackerel, then travel by water taxi to a deserted beach. From there, some hike to a monastery, others nap on the beach, soothed by the lapping of the water.On our final day, we take the ferry to Hvar, the Adriatic island of the rich and famous. John Malkovich looked into buying a house there. Gwyneth Paltrow vacations there. Bill Gates sails in. Here, the Venetian-style houses are grander. The gardens look professionally done. Yet it has not lost its off-the-beaten-path charm.In Hvar's village of Jelsa, with its winding alleys and streets made of steps, we lunch outdoors on light-as-a-cloud gnocchi with white shrimp sauce, followed by fresh grouper. Afterward, we climb a street of steps to see the heavily fortified parish church and, as we descend, encounter a bevy of 8-year-old girls, thrilled to pose for photos that they will never see.Our last walk takes us along Hvar's coast. The sea is as clear as a glass of vodka. The bougainvillea is a frenzy of pink. The needle-thin cypress trees emulate the island's dozens of church steeples, pointing straight to heaven.And before I know it we are strolling into the town of Hvar, the end of our walk.I arrive home feeling a bit more fit, having made new friends, gained a pound (despite all that fish!), and -- here's the good news -- totally mentally rested. My mind is racing with new projects to undertake and new challenges to meet.I have been to Prospero's island -- several of them, in fact -- they were truly enchanted, and now I can't wait to get back to work.And that may be the best possible outcome from a vacation.(Melissa Burdick Harmon has visited all seven continents, researching more than 200 magazine articles.)http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/05359/626685.stm   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8325/1/E-Discover-why-everyones-talking-about-Croatia.html  Discover why everyone’s talking about Croatia 23 December 2005 Washed by the sparkling waters of the Adriatic Sea, Croatia is home to some of the most magnificent coastal scenery in Europe. Rich in history and culture, it is no wonder this secluded treasure trove is fast becoming the ‘hot’ destination for 2006. Travelsphere has introduced two new itineraries in their latest European collection with charter flights from Gatwick, Manchester, Nottingham EMA and Bristol airports.A traditional 8-day break with accommodation on a half-board basis in the pretty resort of Rabac on Maslinica Bay costs from just £299. For a city break with a difference, have a look at the new 8-day break to the fascinating port of Dubrovnik, available on a half-board basis from £489. The old town has one of the most famous views in Europe, thanks to its celebrated medieval fortress, maze of ramparts, narrow streets, hidden squares, museums and churches. In contrast, Opatija on the Kvarner Peninsula has been a popular holiday resort since the 19th century and retains an unmistakeable air of grandeur with its seafront promenade, majestic gardens and lovely assortment of shops, bars and restaurants. The new 8-day break from £489 features 4-star accommodation on a half-board basis, a gala dinner and fascinating excursions in neighbouring Slovenia. Further details can be found in Travelsphere’s new European Collection brochure for 2006, which boasts its biggest selection ever to Europe with over 146 great value holidays, 26 of which are brand new in 30 European countries. Prices start from as little as £99 for a weekend break in Paris, rising to £929 for a delightful 10-day river cruise on a full-board basis down the mighty River Elbe from Germany to the Czech Republic. Several of the holidays featured conveniently include a local coach departure from over 200 towns and cities throughout the UK. The company has picked up on the growing trend for more choice and flexibility with holiday packages by introducing add-on and extend your stay options, hotel upgrades, included extras and special departures to festivals and events around Europe. The brochure also features a great selection of walking and activity based holidays, plus some exciting ideas by train. The choice of new holidays by air is extensive. Take in the ‘Visions of Northern Spain’ on an 8-day 4-star break on a half-board basis featuring stays in Bilbao, Ojedo-Potes in the west and the pretty seaside town of Comillas from £499. Budget in advance on an action-packed 8-day tour of Tunisia from £599, featuring full-board accommodation at 4-star hotels throughout, lots of included excursions and a memorable journey aboard the Red Lizard train through the dramatic Selja Canyon. Discover Ukraine, still a relatively undiscovered jewel on a fascinating 8-day tour of its historic capital, Kiev and the breathtaking scenery around Yalta on the Crimean Peninsula from £759. http://www.easier.com/view/News/Travel/article-33922.html  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 22 Dec 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8326/1/H-Hrvatska-bozicna-vecera---Harvard-Club-New-York.html  Hrvatska božićna večera - Harvard Club, New YorkAmerički novinari Hrvatsku proglasili "velikim otkrićem!"By Višnja MiočićHrvatska božićna večera koju je Hrvatska turistička zajednica priredila u prestižnom Harvard Clubu na Manhattanu drugog prosinca svojom je grandioznom prezentacijom dostojno obilježila kraj ove, za hrvatski turizam, izuzetno uspješne godine. Ova večera je okupila oko 200 uzvanika i niz predstavnika američkih turističkih medija, a prije same večere održana je konferencija za novinare, na kojoj je predsjednik Hrvatske turističke zajednice Niko Bulić održao kratku i sažetu prezentaciju hrvatskog turizma danas, te odgovarao na brojna pitanja novinara."Hrvatska postaje sve poželjnije odredište za američke turiste. Potvrđuje to prodaja aranžmana i najave dolaska 20 posto više američkih gostiju od 130.000 koliko ih je u 2005. posjetilo našu zemlju rekao je Bulić tom prilikom. Zanimanje Amerikanaca za Hrvatsku posebno je naraslo nakon udarnih članaka u vodećim medijima, te nakon što je Hrvatska u Lonely Planetu proglašena najpoželjnijim svjetskim turističkim odredištem za 2005. godinu. Pozitivnom imidžu i popularnosti Hrvatske pomogli su zatim i članci objavljeni u listovima poputThe New York Timesa i National Geographic Adventura, koji je u svom broju iz studenog proglasio Hrvatsku za naj destinaciju avanturističkog turizma za 2006. godinu, istaknuo je Bulić. Ono što nudimo i po čemu želimo biti prepoznatljivi je spoj očuvane prirode, bogatog kulturnog nasljeđa, čistog mora i dobre zdrave hrane, kazao je Bulić, ističući kako je upravo taj sadržaj smisao hrvatskog turističkog sloganaMediteran kakav je nekad bio. "Godina 2005. bila je uspješna hrvatska godina na američkom turističkom tržištu, s kojeg sve više turista dolazi u Hrvatsku, a očekuje se da će se taj uspješni trend nastaviti i u 2006.", izjavila je Nena Komarica, voditeljica Ureda Hrvatske turističke zajednice u New Yorku. Ona dodaje kako Amerikanci vole naše spomenike, gastronomsku ponudu, čistoću, očuvanost obale i mora te srdačnost ljudi, a oduševljeni su time što gotovo svi s kojima komuniciraju dobro govore engleski. Američki su novinari Niku Bulića pitali razna praktična pitanja u svezi posjeta Hrvatskoj. Jedno od vodećih pitanja je mogućnost uvođenja izravne zračne linije između Amerike i Hrvatske. Koji se strani jezici govore i kako se strancima najlakše sporazumijevati, te kako će i na koji način Hrvatska povećavati hotelske kapacitete i zadržati čistu i neprenaseljenu obalu također su zanimali novinare. Neki od prisutnih novinara već su posjetili Hrvatsku, za koju su imali samo riječi hvale. Gotovo svi su istaknuli kako su bii potpuno zaprepašteni ljepotom na koju su naišli u srcu Mediterana a o kojoj praktički ništa nisu znali do sada. Novinar Tim Sohn, koji je u magazinu "Outside" napisao članak o Hrvatskoj kao turističkom otkriću, kaže da će svake godine ljetovati u Dalmaciji jer "takav pozitivan spoj tradicije, kulture, kulinarstva i stila života i sačuvane prirode" nije vidio nigdje na svijetu. Isto oduševljenje iskazao je i John Bowemaster, novinar National Geographic Adventura koji je svoj put kajakom uz Hrvatsku obalu opisao u reportaži objavljenoj prošloga mjeseca, i u kojem je Hrvatska proglašena najzanimljivijom destinacijom za sljedeću godinu. O svom boravku u Hrvatskoj Bowemaster ima samo riječi hvale, a na naše pitanje da nam kaže barem jednu stvar s kojom nije bio zadovoljan ozbiljno je rekao; Sve je bilo fantastično! Od prirode i hrane do ljudi na koje smo nailazili….samo pozitivna otkrića, kaže Bowemaster, koji dodaje kako su njihovo mišljenje očito dijelili i urednici koji ovakve reportaže obično objavljuju i po šest mjeseci nakon puta, dok je ova o Hrvatskoj neočekivano objavljena ubrzo nakon povratka novinara iz Hrvatske. Trend uspjeha hrvatskog turizma u Americi potvrđuje i već iskazano zanimanje Amerikanaca. "Mnogi touroperatori posvjedočili su da su rezervacije za 2006. u tijeku, a neki su već rasprodali kapacitete i sigurni smo da će trend Hrvatske kao popularne destinacije samo jačati", rekla je Komarica. Dodala je da bi se još veći broj Amerikanaca odlučio za Hrvatsku kada bi se uspostavile izravne zračne linije između SAD-a i Hrvatske, što bi je učinilo pristupačnijom američkim turistima. Odličnoj atmosferi u Harvard Clubu doprinijela je svakako izvrsna hrana koju je pripremao vrsni Anđelo Ljubičić, dugogodišnji vodeći šef ovog prestižnog newjorškog kluba. Osim istarskog tartufa gosti su okuse Hrvatske mogli osjetiti i ispijajući Malvaziju Kozlović 2004, a kao desertno vino na stolu se našla i Violeta iz Grgichevih vinograda. Autentičan ugođaj upotpunio je nastup dubrovačke klape Maestrali koja je specijalno za ovu prigodu doputovala u New York s gospodinom Bulićem. Osim brojnih uglednih članova hrvatske zajednice božićnoj su večeri nazočili i predstavnici hrvatske diplomacije predvođeni veleposlanicom pri Ujedinjenim narodina Mirjanom Mladineo i generalnim konzulom Petrom Ljubičićem.Ured HTZ-a iz New Yorka imat će prigodu i dalje popularizirati Hrvatsku kao turističko odredište predstavnicima američkih turističkih agencija i medija na konferenciji Američke udruge touroperatora (USTOA) sljedećega tjedna u Orlandu na Floridi. Na skupu će se sastati predstavnici njezinih više od 800 članova, koji na godinu imaju više od 10 milijuna putnika i ostvare zaradu od oko osam milijardi dolara. letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 12 Dec 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8328/1/E-Croat-DAzure.html  Croat D'AzureIs the Dalmatian Coast the next Riviera?Europe By Peter Jon LindbergIs the Dalmatian Coast the next Riviera? Dubrovnik and the islands off Southern Croatia are tempting travelers with natural beauty and a buzzing nightlife. Peter Jon Lindberg succumbs to their charms.My friends and I play a travel game we call Swoon. The rules are simple: Choose a storied locale from a particular moment in the past 50 years, and the place that earns the most "aaah's" wins. Someone invariably picks St.-Tropez circa 1955, or Ubud in the seventies. Pre–charter flight Ibiza. Post–Cold War Prague. Such places are the geographical equivalents of Truman Capote's Black and White Ball or Manchester's Hacienda Club: that perfect confluence of location and time—before the rest of the world arrived, before the inevitable Wild On! specials on E! Think of Bahia in the sixties, Saigon in the nineties, or Tan-gier in Paul Bowles's day.Think of these and you'll begin to understand the Dalmatian Coast in 2005. Right now, the islands of southern Croatia are—among a certain group of people—the premier destination in the Mediterranean region. They glimmer on the periphery enough to attract the trendy, yet hang enough off the radar to elicit blank stares among the rest. And the rest don't know it now, but they'll be coming soon, too.Europeans long favored Croatia's coastal resorts as a low-key alternative—Greece, Italy, and Spain without the tourist junk or the exorbitant prices. (In the 1970's and 80's, Yugoslavia drew more British travelers than any other European country besides Spain; most of them were bound for Dalmatia.) When Yugoslavia erupted into civil war in 1991, the Dalmatian Coast was not as hard hit as the inland regions of Bosnia and Serbia. But violence was widespread even here, and tourists—the backbone of Dalmatia's economy—disappeared altogether.Today the pockmarks of mortar fire are faintly visible in Dubrovnik's ancient walls, grim reminders of the 1991–92 siege by Yugoslav forces. In most of Croatia, the war now feels ages, not just a decade, gone. And tourism is increasing by as much as 50 percent a year. Europeans are again flocking here each summer—arriving by yacht, by sailboat, by car ferry, or by Gulfstream—and picking up where they left off. Americans, too, are finally being clued in: dozens of cruise lines and tour companies have added Dalmatia to their itineraries in recent years. And, for better or worse, Croatia was recently given the Wild On! treatment on E! If that's not a tipping point, I don't know what is.So what's the appeal? The landscape, for starters. This is the most stunning coastline in Europe: a mix of limpid bays, craggy bluffs, hidden coves and beaches, vineyards, olive groves, and forests of cypress and pine. Remarkably well preserved ancient towns hold vivid examples of Greek, Roman, Venetian, and Slavic architecture. The sailing and yachting scene here rivals any other, with hundreds of ports and dozens of marinas and countless natural inlets scattered across a thousand islands. Dalmatian cuisine—consisting of superb fish, shrimp, octopus, and oysters, along with increasingly renowned wines—compares favorably to Italian cooking, and borrows heavily from it: here risotto becomes rizot and prosciutto becomes the delectable prsut. But Dalmatian food is earthier and rougher than Italian, blending hints of Hungarian (paprika-laced goulash), Turkish (kebab-style raznjici, or meat skewers), and Slavic (sour dumplings). It's also exceptionally affordable.There's endless adventure around every corner – food, wine, shopping, art and more. Finally, an exuberant nightlife dominates on the larger islands of Hvar and Brac, where revelers keep the party going until sunrise. There's a palpable urgency to the proceedings. This may be the most widespread consequence of the war: everyone—Croatians themselves, as well as their blissed-out guests—seems to be making up for lost time. For now, it's Croatia's moment; who knows how long it will last?DUBROVNIKDalmatia's most famous city is touted as an unspoiled gem, though this is really a matter of degree. While it's not yet as overrun as, say, Prague or Positano (the two unlikely places that Dubrovnik most resembles), it's well within the crosshairs of mass tourism. Dubrovnik's Old Town maintains a precarious equilibrium between Then and Now, Here and Elsewhere. Menus in Italian, English, and German hang outside every tra-ditional wooden-beamed konoba, or tavern. Benetton and Diesel boutiques line the medieval lanes. And pushcart vendors proffer not just handmade olive soaps but also Old Town mouse pads.Such culture clashes form the essence of this city, and always have. In the Old Town, one feels a sense of displacement, as if all of Europe had come to cluster within Dubrovnik's fortified walls. At various points, most of Europe has. Witness the twisting staircase above Gundulic Square, an explicit homage to the Spanish Steps; the 16th-century Baroque cathedrals abutting Renaissance palaces and medieval fortresses; and the Gradska Kavana, a café straight out of fin de siècle Vienna.The Old Town is shaped like a cereal bowl; from its elevated rim you can gaze across the city's orange roofs to the vividly blue Adriatic beyond. Down below, at the center of the bowl, lies the Stradun, Dubrovnik's limestone main drag. Centuries of casual strollers have buffed the street to an icy gloss—you expect a Zamboni to arrive at any moment. Each evening the Stradun roars to life for the nightly korso, or promenade. A motley crowd emerges: teenagers in sunbleached-blond dreadlocks, grizzled Croatian men smoking pipes, cruise-ship passengers in flip-flops, Italian men in Ferragamo loafers. A white-haired nun passes by, cocooned in an all-white habit. She's trailed by a surfer dude in satin shorts, nothing more. Both wear crucifixes.http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/8961456/     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8327/1/E-NBC-live-from-Dubrovnik-Croatia---THE-New-Riviera.html  NBC in Croatia, THE New Riviera Touring the 'New Riviera' Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer profiles Dubrovnik, Croatia, and the Dalmatian Coast, often called the "New Riviera." Fri, 11 Nov 2005 13:34:47 GMT   Matt Lauer in Croatia Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer reveals his location for day five of the "Where in the World" tour, Dubrovnik, Croatia. Fri, 11 Nov 2005 12:31:20 GMT   WITW day 5: Dubrovnik, Croatia Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer reveals the final location of his "Where in the World" tour, Dubrovnik, Croatia. Fri, 11 Nov 2005 00:00:00 GMT   What are Matt's last stop gifts? Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer offers gifts from Croatia to the rest of the "Today" show crew. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT   'ER' doc on his home country Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer talks with NBC's "ER" star Goran Visnjic about his life in Croatia. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT   How did Matt get to Croatia? Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer explains how he ended up in Croatia, the last stop on his "Where in the World" tour. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT   Investing in Croatia Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer talks with businessman Goran Strock about his investments in Croatia. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT   A look at the history of Croatia Nov. 11: "Today" show host Matt Lauer profiles Croatia's past and present. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT   Take a tour of Croatia Nov. 11: NBC's Lester Holt tours Croatia, the last "Where in the World" destination. Thu, 10 Nov 2005 13:00:00 GMT  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8329/1/E-Croatia-old-culture-new-era.html   Croatia old culture, new era Posted on: Sunday, October 30, 2005 By Kurt Umbhau Special to The Advertiser   Dubrovnik, one of the most attractive and culturally important cities on the Mediterranean, offers tourists ancient architecture, seaside activities, and a rich history. KURT UMBHAU | Special to The Advertiser   Many women harvest flowers from their gardens and sell them on the streets of Old Town in Zagreb. KURT UMBHAU | Special to The Advertiser   In Zagreb, many buildings survive from the Middle Ages. The city has for centuries been a center of culture and science, and more recently of commerce and night life. One million residents live in the capital strategically positioned between the Adriatic coast and Central Europe. Croatian National Tourist Board   Brela, on Croatia's Damatian Coast, has pebble beaches, pine forests, a coastal promenade and the region's delicious seafood cuisine. Croatian National Tourist Board   A Motovun visitor to the town's film festival hits his campground after a night of Croatian beer, wine and the powerful local drink, rakija. KURT UMBHAU | Special to The Advertiser In Croatia, don't be surprised if a two-hour coffee overflows into three. People have time. During a summer tour including the seaside Croatian region of Istria, the capital city of Zagreb and the Dalmatian Coast from Brestova to Dubrovnik, I ran into many locals with rooted and real Mediterranean dispositions. In a country that endured a divisive war 10 years ago, the mellow rhythms put me in mind of the Bob Dylan line, "When you got nothing, you got nothing to lose." In late July, I hitched a ride from Wels, Austria, to the Motovun Film Festival. Motovun is an isolated hilltop settlement in the Istrian region near Trieste, Italy, along the Adriatic Sea. The ancient fortified city once ruled by Romans sits high above valley vineyards and golden lowlands. For the past six years, the little town has transformed an unassuming film festival into a big-time bash. This is not Cannes or Sundance. Croatians looking to dance, drink and socialize easily outnumber film freaks. And forget the movies, because a lot of people at the five-day festival never see one. As the festival has gained popularity over its six-year life, each year there is more real-life drama and less of the celluloid. "The first two years, this was about watching movies, but now, it is about drinking," remarked Boyan Szabo, a 24-year-old veteran of all six festivals. "If they wouldn't show films, it might be better. Just make it a party." One night I labored through "Land of Plenty," the latest Wim Wenders movie. Only a temporary chain fence with a vinyl drape separated the movie area from the main plaza. As the plaza crowd grew and the buzz got louder, the audience's preferences began to show. In twos and threes, people stood up and waded through lawn chairs for the exit. After dwindling further for a half-hour, Wenders' movie audience was left to sleepers and introverts. Around midnight, every corner of Motovun pumped to life with DJs grooving in beer gardens, meat sizzling on grills and taps and bottles in the full tilt boogie. A few thousand people on holiday enjoyed July's T-shirt weather. Most roamed uneven alleys nursing a drink. In some spots, the crooked cobblestones became the dance floor and the crowd tripped around. The group perspired through sunrise and slowly disappeared with the daylight. On the way down from the old city, I noticed people passed out, faithfully holding their last beer. Throughout the festival, cold Ozujsko beer was on tap for 10 kuna ($1.65). Most of the grape growers in Istria produce homemade wines and spirits, and local products are available at farms surrounding the Motovun (signs simply read "vino"). Next to the bus drop-off, a fruit stand is open for the entire festival stocking the local wine for 10-15 (2.50) kuna per bottle, along with potent liquor called rakija, which can reach 50 percent to 60 percent alcohol. Motovun's film festival facilities are less than ideal, but somehow that makes it more charming. The theater venues are 14thcentury buildings, not a multiplex with reclining seats or clean bathrooms. In Motovun, seats are hard and either plastic or wood. Rooms have low ceilings and subtitles are sometimes only visible to the first few rows. And almost everyone uses the portable toilets or at night, nature. The largest theater is located outside on the square and near the town gate, so noise can be a factor. Several hundred chairs comprise the seating, and each audience rearranges them so you might find yourself feeling surrounded and marooned from the exit. During the sleeper "Antares" by Gotz Spielmann, my neighbor napped like a cat on my shoulder, and I tilted back, watching the stars overhead. Compared to Motovun's carnival atmosphere, Zagreb was a morgue. Trams and sidewalks were deserted except for city workers resurfacing roads and a few lonesome policemen. As Croatia's capitol, with nearly 1 million residents, Zagreb celebrates culture through numerous museums, galleries, concerts, dance, and dramatic performances each year. But this was August, and everyone was at the sea. During this peak tourist season, stores, companies, and restaurants hang out their "Gone Fishin'" signs and migrate to the water. By the look of it, Croatians are not at all tempted to forfeit their August holidays to earn more tourist money in Zagreb. To get oriented, I took a two-mile walk and toured the city walls, climbing up Lotrscak tower to see the cannon they still fire every day at noon. From the tower, St. Mark's patterned tile roof and the panoramic view of the Mount Medvednica highlands to the lazy Sava River are worth the 10-kuna entrance fee ($1.65). Down the street, Catholicism is practiced at the city's Stone Gate, where people pray to statues and hundreds of red candles flicker in the wind. The narrow alleys and streets are ideal for walking, but to move more quickly, public trams and buses are efficient and inexpensive with day passes for 15 kuna ($2.50). At Jelacica square, the city's nerve center lined with majestic 16th century baroque buildings and upscale cafes, I headed for Praska Avenue. I walked the warm park blocks listening to hissing water fountains and enjoying flowers preening in a late-summer bloom. Within a few minutes by foot, I passed the Gallery of Modern Art, the Archeology Museum, the Art Pavilion, and the National Theater. I stopped in at the plush Hotel Inter-Continental to gamble. After two guards checked me for guns and dress code violations, I played blackjack in a tomb called Casino City. The place had the lonesome scent of desperation and only two other customers. A dozen assorted pit bosses, dealers, guards, and slot jockeys stood around with spinning roulette wheels for eyes. I won, but it felt like losing. By then it was dark, and the 13th-century Cathedral of the Assumption's glowing towers looked like gothic chandeliers. Outside the town core, some of the architecture has the same punitive effect found in zoos and jails. One complex in New Zagreb is a famous concrete monstrosity built in Marshall Tito's era with over 1,000 units. A university student who once lived there described conditions as "not human, but cheap." A local friend introduced me to traditional Croatian cuisine at the upscale Paviljon restaurant in the center of Zagreb (22 Trg Tomislava). The patio looked a lot like what you might find at a Los Angeles country club, but the plates told a different story. The first thing I saw was Fred and Wilma Flintstone sharing a kilo (2.2 pounds) of beef served on a platter. The meat, beer and bread were the stars of the show as decorative crinkle-cut carrots, infant potatoes and cabbage wisps sat untouched. The menu boasted a variety of pork, beef, lamb and seafood by the kilogram. There was also pag and lika (sheep cheeses), Bosnian cevapi (spiced sausage), and Slavonian kulen (paprika- flavored salami). For something lighter, I enjoyed the fresh tomato soup and a Croatian vegetable plate, which was a sampling of pickled vegetables (tursija), grilled onions and peppers, roasted potatoes (przeni krumpir) and a pasta and cheese pie called strukli. The lunch tab was very reasonable at 100 kuna ($16.60) for two. Zagreb is not an electrifying city, but it has a fair share of discos, nightclubs and entertainment listed in a free guide. One of the most popular places with the locals is Sidro, a dingy club featuring Croatian rock and open all night long. Ludnice (Insane House) offers a cultural experience with Serbian folk music. Global is a gay discotheque open all night with commercial dance music and a "crazy" atmosphere. One local described Hemingway's, a singles and tourist bar, as a "terrible elite place, very boring." I found myself returning to Melin (Kozarska 19). This bar is a phenomenon because it seems everyone in the 18-to-35 year age group meets here for a drink before going out. Melin has the feeling of a giant living room, and it is easy to strike up conversations with strangers. Patrons often buy drinks for each other, and it is important to reciprocate. The price is right as a half-liter of Karlovasco beer costs 10 kuna ($1.65). For late-night snacks, there are sandwich shops, bakeries and pizzerias. One treat many people eat after a night out is a baked roll called burek sa mesom (with meat) or burek sa sirom (with cheese). These are perfect for soaking up any remaining rakija in your system. As I traveled through Croatia, Bob Dylan sang in my head, "The times they are a changin'." As the former communist country embraces the European Union and outside investment pours in, the nation is learning the ropes of capitalism. I hope that the times don't change the place too much. IF YOU GO ... CROATIA INFORMATION Videos, travel, hotel and festival information is available through the Croatia Tourist Agency Web site at www.croatia.hr and the Croatian National Tourist Office, 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 4003, New York, NY, 10118 (cntony@earth lin.net). WHERE TO STAY, ZAGREB For accommodation in Zagreb, the Hotel Inter-Continental is a luxury option ($190-$230). The Central Hotel across from the train station is a generic mid-grade hotel at ($75-$90). For budget travelers, the 10-bed St. Patrick's Hostel at $18 a night is a great value for a quality hostel experience. MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL For more information and a program, see www.motovunfilm festival.com. WHERE TO STAY, MOTOVUN The campground is one option for film-festival accommodation. However, conditions are very crowded. The Hotel Kastel (www.hotel-kastel-motovun.hr) has rooms and apartments starting at $60. Rooms in private homes are also available. FERRY GETAWAY ON THE CROATIAN COAST The Croatian coast is an easy place to forget time. Was it Thursday? No, couldn't be. Friday? Perhaps. After a few shoulder-to-shoulder days with tourists in Pula, a well-preserved Roman military outpost, I decided to disappear for a while. Pula's picturesque 1st century amphitheater is still used for pop concerts and festivals. The former site of gladiator battles and executions rivals the Roman Coliseum, but I was tired of buildings and longed for solitude. I wanted to swim with the fish and not flop around on land anymore. To escape the masses, the ferry system is ideal. I jumped on the local boat in Brestova, Istria, and we docked 25 minutes later at the deserted Porozina harbor on the quiet island of Cres. I found a remote campsite in brush overlooking the beach, and I snorkeled alone for hours through clouds of glittering sardines. When plunging through the shimmering schools, I felt like I had smashed through a glass door. The game had the same childhood attraction as running through a flock of pigeons at the zoo. Beside the sardines, the water seemed lifeless except for urchins looking like fallen fruit on the flat ocean floor. Along the coast, the hot climate painted the landscape browns and yellows. From the fishing boats moored in the soft blue shorebreak, I could see 1,000-year-old stone houses in sun-drenched vineyards. Each was a Mediterranean postcard. After a few days on Cres living off the local market and a pizzeria, I caught another ferry to the island of Krk and found the old Roman seaside village of Baska, homemade liquor and rocky beaches hosting fewer tourists than the mainland beaches. Aside from short routes where ferries act like water taxis between two islands, larger ships transport people and cars the coastal length of Croatia from Rijeka to the ancient seaside city of Dubrovnik, Croatia's most popular tourist destination. The historic trading city has deep Roman and Venetian history, and the old town is nicely restored after suffering extensive damage during the 1991-95 war. While Dubrovnik is worth visiting for a couple of days, it is crowded and expensive compared with other coastal locations. The Dalmatian Coast is loaded with untouched islands, so sailing through the chain is a highlight for most mariners and scuba divers. Hopping off the coastal ferry is the name of the game. For the price of a through ticket from Rijeka to Dubrovnik ($40), passengers can get off at any port for up to one week, which is less expensive than buying individual tickets between destinations. From Zadar, Split, Hvar, Korcula and Mljet, you can take local ferries to more remote locations. From Zagreb or Rijeka, catching a bus to Split and then a ferry to Dubrovnik or vice versa is the best way to see the Dalmatian Coast as well as the interior Mediterranean landscape and architecture. For accommodation, hotels or private rooms are the most convenient option while on coastal islands. Hotel listings are available at tourist information offices located in ports, and rooms are advertised on houses with the word "Sobe." letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 31 Oct 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8330/1/E-Fifth-year-success-for-Croatias-Mljet-Triathlon.html  Fifth year success for Croatia's Mljet Triathlonby Jeff HendersonIT Interactive EditorThis report filed October 25, 2005Mljet Island, Croatia - The lovely island of Mljet played host to the fifth annual Mljet Half Iron Triathlon just over two weeks ago. Although Croatia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, a half-decade of bitter fighting left the country war-weary and eager to achieve peace. In 1998, integration of separatist territories was finally completed under UN supervision, and two years later the Mljet Triathlon was born - a celebration of sport and human spirit in the wake of turmoil. Mljet is a lovely island in the Adriatic Sea, the body of clear, turquoise water which separates Croatia from Italy. Croatia is home to dozens of national parks, many of them perched on the hundreds of islands fanning out from the coastline. The Mljet Triathlon has made its home in the National Park Mljet, on the northwestern end of skinny Mljet Island. The island, only reachable from mainland Croatia by ferry from the capital city of Dubrovnik and tourist charter boats from KorÄ?ula, Hvar, and Split, is known for inland salt lakes, rich, unspoiled forests, and collapsed caves facing the south sea. On Oct. 2 Mljet welcomed 64 individuals and seven relay teams from eight countries for one of the most demanding races in the Balkan region. With the water temperature 22°C and the air 24°C, ideal conditions awaited the participants. For a small race, the total prize purse of €14,000 signified the dedication of the organizers to supporting its athletes. The race owes its difficulty to the rugged terrain of the island. The bike course features two loops and 1,890 meters of ascent, and the run course subjects athletes to 400 meters of stairs at the beginning and end of each of the two loops. The elevation has its merits, though, affording views of the island and sea beyond to those who make the climb. The women's defending champion, Svetlana Brkic from Serbia, handily claimed another title, defeating Ireland's Elena Maslova and Hungary's Fatima Kovacs. The men's winner from 2004 was not so blessed, however. Dejan Patrcevik, defending champ, took the lead in the early stages of the bike but could not hold onto it during the run, Hungarian Gyula Kis finagled the upset on the second loop of the run to take first by 14 seconds. Six minutes later, Tomas Korinek from the Czech Republic claimed third. The relay division was won by the team led by Ana Srsen, a well-known Croatian disabled athlete who took fourth in the 400m freestyle at the 2004 Summer Para-Olympic Games, in Athens, and is a world championship bronze medalist in the 5k run and marathon. In the wake of her dominating swim skills, her team has won Mljet in each of the last two years. According to organizers, participating in local triathlons and other races is one way Srsen supports her fellow physically challenged athletes. The next edition will be held October 8, 2006. http://www.insidetri.com/race/iro/articles/3053.0.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 29 Oct 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8331/1/E-Croatia-Hosts-66th-Skal-International-World-Congress.html  Croatia Hosts 66th Skal International World CongressZagreb. The 66th Skal International World Congress starts today in Zagreb, Croatia. Above 1,000 tourist companies from 87 countries will take part in it, Croatian newspaper Novi List reads. The congress will last till October 21st. Croatian President Stipe Mesic will officially open the congress Monday. Skal International is the largest organisation of travel and tourism professionals in the world embracing all sectors of the tourism industry. It has about 22,000 members active in 87 countries and in about 500 locations around the world.http://www.focus-fen.net/index.php?catid=129&newsid=74446&ch=0   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 15 Oct 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8332/1/E-Tuscan-style-farm-tourism-takes-root-in-Croatia.html  Tuscan-style farm tourism takes root in CroatiaSat Oct 8, 2005 9:53 PM ET By Igor IlicDIVSICI, Croatia (Reuters) - For years, Portugal's Algarve, France's Provence or Tuscany in Italy have been leading the field for farm holidays in peaceful rural settings.The picturesque Istrian peninsula in Croatia's northern Adriatic is keen to join their ranks.Judging by the Stancija Negricani, a sprawling farm estate surrounded by pastures and woodland in the hamlet of Divsici in the south of the peninsula, the idea may take off.In the past few years, the number of rural households offering accommodation and home-made food has risen from a handful to more than 200, spread across the triangle-shaped peninsula whose lush vegetation belies the closeness of the sea."Istria and Croatia have long attracted tourists because of the pristine coastline and crystal-clear sea. A decade ago we started thinking 'Why not also take advantage of our unspoiled hinterland?' and a few years ago kicked off the project," said Marino Brecevic of the Istrian Tourist Board.Now the tourist board wants the "agrifarms" to take care of business for themselves."We can carry on promoting agritourism, but the owners will have to organize themselves and ... facilitate their business by linking up with tour operators in Europe who sell such offers," Brecevic said.Istria was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1918 and was then ruled by the Italians until World War Two, and many inhabitants speak both Croatian and Italian. It was spared the devastation of the 1991-95 war following Croatian independence.Since 2000, tourists have been steadily returning to the Adriatic which, thanks to 50 years of communism and a decade of war and isolation, has remained pristine and alluring.DELICACIES ABOUNDStancija Negricani, north of the largest Istrian city of Pula, is one of a few dozen more exclusively furnished farms in the area. It covers 34,000 square metres (8 acres) and is equipped with a playground, pool and beach volleyball pitch. The owners, Mirjana and Marijan Modrusan, quit running a restaurant four years ago and invested in buying an estate and making it suitable for about 20 guests."We ran up a considerable debt to start this business. We wouldn't have achieved this had we not enjoyed refurbishing an old farm ... (and) if our only motive had been quick profit," Mirjana Modrusan said.The guests, mostly from Britain, Germany and Italy, can enjoy delicacies such as ham, cheese or pasta with truffles and home-made bread and sausages made to a family recipe.They can learn how to prepare traditional Istrian dishes and spend time in the wine cellar -- another indispensable part of an Istrian country household.The Modrusans have a contract with a British travel agency and also advertise on a Web site. However, they agree that agritourism needs a more organised effort."It is difficult to define what a real farm holiday should include. At the moment, accommodation, food and facilities on offer at rural estates are not properly classified and vary a lot," Marijan Modrusan said.VILLA HOLIDAYSA more luxurious version of Istrian agritourism includes villa holidays, aimed at wealthier guests.Rented villas are particularly popular with British tourists, who account for about 80 percent of villa clientele.The business is evidently booming and some foreign media have dubbed Istria "the new Tuscany".The recovery of Croatia's tourist industry has spilled over into the capital, Zagreb, whose refurbished facades, new luxury shops and central European charm are proving a tourist draw.Sprawling between the Sava river in the south and Mount Medvednica in the north, the city of one million has never been a tourist hotspot, unlike the scenic coast.However, the Zagreb tourist board says about 38,000 foreign tourists visited the city in July this year alone, a rise of 38 percent compared with last year."Many of the tourists are interested to see life now, after the war, compared to what they saw here under communism," said tour guide Hela Markanovic, 40.Most tourists like to explore the cobbled lanes of the old Upper Town but many also roam the wide downtown streets lined with shops selling designer clothes and high-tech equipment.A sore point remains the unwillingness of shop-owners in this conservative Roman Catholic society to work on Sundays."Along with lack of public toilets and parking lots, the main problem is that shops, souvenir shops and exchange offices are closed on Sundays. That shows how much more effort we need to have a professional tourist industry," Markanovic said.http://today.reuters.com/news/newsArticle.aspx?type=lifeAndLeisureNews&storyID=2005-10-09T015307Z_01_FOR906743_RTRUKOC_0_US-LEISURE-CROATIA-AGRITOURISM.xml  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 09 Oct 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8335/1/E-Croat-DAzure---the-most-stunning-coastline-in-Europe.html  Croat D'AzureIs the Dalmatian Coast the next Riviera? By Peter Jon LindbergUpdated: 2:01 p.m. ET Aug. 15, 2005Is the Dalmatian Coast the next Riviera? Dubrovnik and the islands off Southern Croatia are tempting travelers with natural beauty and a buzzing nightlife. Peter Jon Lindberg succumbs to their charms.My friends and I play a travel game we call Swoon. The rules are simple: Choose a storied locale from a particular moment in the past 50 years, and the place that earns the most "aaah's" wins. Someone invariably picks St.-Tropez circa 1955, or Ubud in the seventies. Pre–charter flight Ibiza. Post–Cold War Prague. Such places are the geographical equivalents of Truman Capote's Black and White Ball or Manchester's Hacienda Club: that perfect confluence of location and time—before the rest of the world arrived, before the inevitable Wild On! specials on E! Think of Bahia in the sixties, Saigon in the nineties, or Tan-gier in Paul Bowles's day.Think of these and you'll begin to understand the Dalmatian Coast in 2005. Right now, the islands of southern Croatia are—among a certain group of people—the premier destination in the Mediterranean region. They glimmer on the periphery enough to attract the trendy, yet hang enough off the radar to elicit blank stares among the rest. And the rest don't know it now, but they'll be coming soon, too.Europeans long favored Croatia's coastal resorts as a low-key alternative—Greece, Italy, and Spain without the tourist junk or the exorbitant prices. (In the 1970's and 80's, Yugoslavia drew more British travelers than any other European country besides Spain; most of them were bound for Dalmatia.) When Yugoslavia erupted into civil war in 1991, the Dalmatian Coast was not as hard hit as the inland regions of Bosnia and Serbia. But violence was widespread even here, and tourists—the backbone of Dalmatia's economy—disappeared altogether.Today the pockmarks of mortar fire are faintly visible in Dubrovnik's ancient walls, grim reminders of the 1991–92 siege by Yugoslav forces. In most of Croatia, the war now feels ages, not just a decade, gone. And tourism is increasing by as much as 50 percent a year. Europeans are again flocking here each summer—arriving by yacht, by sailboat, by car ferry, or by Gulfstream—and picking up where they left off. Americans, too, are finally being clued in: dozens of cruise lines and tour companies have added Dalmatia to their itineraries in recent years. And, for better or worse, Croatia was recently given the Wild On! treatment on E! If that's not a tipping point, I don't know what is.So what's the appeal? The landscape, for starters. This is the most stunning coastline in Europe: a mix of limpid bays, craggy bluffs, hidden coves and beaches, vineyards, olive groves, and forests of cypress and pine. Remarkably well preserved ancient towns hold vivid examples of Greek, Roman, Venetian, and Slavic architecture. The sailing and yachting scene here rivals any other, with hundreds of ports and dozens of marinas and countless natural inlets scattered across a thousand islands. Dalmatian cuisine—consisting of superb fish, shrimp, octopus, and oysters, along with increasingly renowned wines—compares favorably to Italian cooking, and borrows heavily from it: here risotto becomes rizot and prosciutto becomes the delectable prsut. But Dalmatian food is earthier and rougher than Italian, blending hints of Hungarian (paprika-laced goulash), Turkish (kebab-style raznjici, or meat skewers), and Slavic (sour dumplings). It's also exceptionally affordable.Finally, an exuberant nightlife dominates on the larger islands of Hvar and Brac, where revelers keep the party going until sunrise. There's a palpable urgency to the proceedings. This may be the most widespread consequence of the war: everyone—Croatians themselves, as well as their blissed-out guests—seems to be making up for lost time. For now, it's Croatia's moment; who knows how long it will last?DUBROVNIKDalmatia's most famous city is touted as an unspoiled gem, though this is really a matter of degree. While it's not yet as overrun as, say, Prague or Positano (the two unlikely places that Dubrovnik most resembles), it's well within the crosshairs of mass tourism. Dubrovnik's Old Town maintains a precarious equilibrium between Then and Now, Here and Elsewhere. Menus in Italian, English, and German hang outside every tra-ditional wooden-beamed konoba, or tavern. Benetton and Diesel boutiques line the medieval lanes. And pushcart vendors proffer not just handmade olive soaps but also Old Town mouse pads.Such culture clashes form the essence of this city, and always have. In the Old Town, one feels a sense of displacement, as if all of Europe had come to cluster within Dubrovnik's fortified walls. At various points, most of Europe has. Witness the twisting staircase above Gundulic Square, an explicit homage to the Spanish Steps; the 16th-century Baroque cathedrals abutting Renaissance palaces and medieval fortresses; and the Gradska Kavana, a café straight out of fin de siècle Vienna.The Old Town is shaped like a cereal bowl; from its elevated rim you can gaze across the city's orange roofs to the vividly blue Adriatic beyond. Down below, at the center of the bowl, lies the Stradun, Dubrovnik's limestone main drag. Centuries of casual strollers have buffed the street to an icy gloss—you expect a Zamboni to arrive at any moment. Each evening the Stradun roars to life for the nightly korso, or promenade. A motley crowd emerges: teenagers in sunbleached-blond dreadlocks, grizzled Croatian men smoking pipes, cruise-ship passengers in flip-flops, Italian men in Ferragamo loafers. A white-haired nun passes by, cocooned in an all-white habit. She's trailed by a surfer dude in satin shorts, nothing more. Both wear crucifixes.The summer crowds may seem unavoidable down on the main streets, so strike up any lane into the higher parts of town. Here the only signs of life are alley cats dozing on the cool and shady stone. The air carries the scent of jasmine and lemon trees, laundry soap, cat spray, and, occasionally, the buttery aroma of scampi frying in tiny kitchens. Climbing a deserted lane one afternoon, I heard, of all things, faint strains of Dixieland echoing down the alleyways. I soon came upon an open doorway, inside which—barely visible in the dim—sat a half-dozen young Croats in shorts, gleefully blowing jazz for an audience of indifferent cats.I was lucky enough to score a bed at the 19-room Pucic Palace, the Old Town's first upmarket hotel, carved out of an 18th-century nobleman's mansion. Even now, as tourism explodes, hotels in Dalmatia are mostly Socialist-era holdovers with lackluster service and design. The Pucic Palace is the glittering exception, a stylish blend of contemporary (gallery lighting, Bulgari bath products) and old-world (copper-shelled, claw-foot tubs; rustic beamed ceilings, olive-wood floors). Balconies look over Gundulic Square, one of Dubrovnik's prime social spots. At night it's filled with café tables and Cinzano-sippers, but by sunrise the entire piazza is transformed into a farmers' market. Each morning I would step outside to buy a breakfast of figs, plums, and Charentais melons. The peach bins were swarming with honeybees, but the stall tender paid them no heed; she simply tossed a few peaches into a paper sack, bees and all, then handed them over with a toothless smile. I closed the bag tight, tucked it deep inside my backpack, and waited till noon to open it, by which time the bees had passed out. The peaches were sublime.The Old Town has some compelling museums—the best of them focusing on 16th-century religious art—but they draw curiously few visitors, and most of those seem to be merely seeking respite from the heat. You almost get the sense that Dubrovnik's tourists can't wait to get out of the city and into the surf, or at least onto a chaise longue. Browsing displays of medieval coins, muskets, and teacups at the Rector's Palace were two barefoot Spanish girls in dripping wet swimsuits. The guards hardly noticed.Despite its sober visage—stone battlements, stately Baroque façades—Dubrovnik in July feels as louche as any Mediterranean beach resort. For every Franciscan monastery, there's a raucous café serving cocktails called Test Tube Baby and Blow Job. The bacchanal reaches its apex at Buza. If this isn't the perfect beach bar, I'll eat a honeybee. A literal hole-in-the-wall (reached via a tiny opening in the Old Town ramparts, and marked by a sign reading COLD DRINKS), Buza unfolds across a series of terraces hewn to the cliffs. There's nothing but a narrow railing between you and the Adriatic. Plastic chairs and tables cluster under a thatch canopy; the bar itself is just a refrigerator and a stereo, both powered by an extension cord running up the cliffside. At sunset I joined the locals leaping off 20-foot-high bluffs into the green water below. Dean Martin was crooning "Cha Cha de Amor" while a 12-year-old girl waited tables, bringing chilly Ozujsko beer from the fridge. At some point, a yacht pulled up and dropped anchor in the cove below. We all watched as the bronzed pilot dove into the water, swam up to the rocks, climbed the winding staircase, sat down at a table, and ordered a beer.KORCULAThe sharp scent of pine resin mingles with salt air on Korcula, three hours by ferry from Dubrovnik. Forests of Aleppo pine, cypress, and holm oak make this one of the Adriatic's most verdant isles. It's known for top-notch wines and for being one of several alleged birthplaces of Marco Polo.Korcula's primary draw, however, is the town of the same name. A snow-globe version of Dubrovnik, with a compact historic quarter encased within stone walls, Korcula took shape under Venetian rule between the 10th and 18th centuries. The Italian influence lingers in Renaissance-era loggias, arched bridges linking the upper stories of palaces, and myriad statues of St. Mark. In contrast to Dubrovnik's, the architecture is quite rough-hewn—all of Korcula looks to be carved from a single piece of stone, like an Adriatic Petra—and is on a decidedly smaller scale, with squat fluted windows and minuscule doorways rimmed with green shutters. The 30-odd lanes wending through the old quarter are so narrow that one could leap from rooftop to rooftop clear across town.The English writer Rebecca West, visiting in 1937, likened Korcula to "a goldsmith's toy, a tortoise made of precious metals, sitting on its peninsula as on a show-stand." Not much has changed. Days begin with ink-black espresso at one of Korcula's ubiquitous cafés, followed perhaps by a circuit around the pine-fringed promenade just outside the city walls. The Old Town's promontory juts like a thumb into the shimmering bay, lapped by waves on three sides. From inside the walls, however, you'd have little idea you were on the sea; the crooked passageways huddle in shadow for most of the day. I alternated stints at the sun-drenched town beach with cooling strolls down the old quarter's lanes. Peering into darkened ground-floor kitchens I could glimpse the dim figures of housewives preparing lunch: grilled squid, sautéed shrimp, wine-braised octopus. At Korcula's jumbled Abbey Treasury museum, a charming old docent followed me from room to room, pointing out Titians and Tintorettos and switching lights on and off as we went.In the afternoons I would bike out for a bracing swim at Przina beach, a pebbly strand on Korcula's southern peninsula, near the town of Lumbarda. Lumbarda is famous for Grk wine (wonderful name, that), a pungent white with the sweet character of liqueur. Vineyards crept over the roadside here; wheel-crushed grapes stained the asphalt. The road wound past olive, lime, and almond groves, past stalks of blood-red sunflowers, past a medieval chapel dropped in the center of a vineyard. With slices of prsut and sharp paski sir cheese procured from a butcher, I stopped to picnic beside the shell of a stone farmhouse; a copse of trees poked up through what remained of the roof.I returned to Korcula Town just before sunset, the evening air soft as a silk shirt. The passageways were bathed in the glow of amber lamps; moonlight cast a blue aura on ship masts and church steeples. Several women were grilling garlicky dorado on a barbecue while their children squeezed in a game of soccer. I assumed they were Korculan, but upon closer inspection, I realized they were all speaking French. (Foreigners—particularly French and Italian—are buying up property here at a dizzying pace.)Just beyond the medieval walls, Vespas were honking their way through the crowds by the marina. Beck's "Sexx Laws" thumped from a harborfront disco. At the Internet café, Croatian teenagers were playing Grand Theft Auto. But down the musty, catacomb-like corridors of the Old Town, the night slipped back 100, 500, 750 years, and Korcula looked much as it must have in Marco Polo's day. The wine, of course, helped.HVARBy far the most glamorous of the Adriatic islands, Hvar is heir to that noble lineage running from Cannes and Capri through St. Bart's and South Beach: the latest of the famous international playgrounds. At the height of summer, Hvar Town is so relentlessly gorgeous it makes your eyes ache. Everything screams, Ogle me: the harbor edged with bougainvillea, the perfectly aged Renaissance façades, the absurdly huge yachts and sailboats, and a nonstop parade of caramelized torsos. As if the cast and setting didn't already suggest a perfume ad, Hvar's entire waterfront is redolent of lavender, which proliferates on the island and is sold in satchels by sidewalk vendors.Each afternoon in summer, another dozen yachts glide into Hvar's mandrac—the marine equivalent of the driveway at Monte Carlo's casino. Here come the new arrivals, in their brushed-steel cleats and finery: the Pescatore from Tuscany, the Commitment from London, the Aerie from Cap d'Ail, the Coup de Grace from Barbados. And here come their occupants, strutting insouciantly down gangways to alight on the pier: men in cream linen suits and Gucci sandals, divas in sheer silk wraps and Michael Kors bikinis. These people can make an ATM withdrawal look sexy.You could spend a month within two blocks of the marina and never tire of the daily routine. At the morning market, Claudia Cardinale look-alikes rub shoulders with black-cloaked biddies shopping for figs and olive oil. As the sun climbs higher, the yachties move from café to konoba around St. Stephen's Square, and breakfast seamlessly merges with lunch. After a swim off the rocks, it's time for midday cocktails at chic quayside bars, where all the chairs face out to provide views of the show. Hvar's Renaissance-era planners must have anticipated the town's eventual function as one of the world's preeminent catwalks.At twilight the yachties are all dining on their decks, served by white-gloved attendants. The air fills with the clink of Prosecco glasses, voices chattering in a dozen languages, and the clapping of high heels on stone—and Hvar's evening promenade begins. The top-shelf crowd congregates at Carpe Diem, the ne plus ultra of trendy boîtes. Wicker sofas and cushioned cube-stools are occupied by couples who pay with Bank of Geneva platinum cards—probably nobility from some obscure corner of Europe. When the terrace is full they adjourn to the loggia and drape themselves across marble ledges with uncanny grace.On this particular night, however, Carpe Diem was not the most fabulous spot in town. Just past midnight, a five-story superyacht slid into a berth opposite the club. On the terrace at Carpe Diem, all heads turned as the crew emerged, clad in marine whites with brass epaulets. Ropes were secured, decks scrubbed, torches lit on the ship's sprawling veranda. Two sailors prepared the gangway, then posted themselves on the pier to tend, no joke, a velvet rope.One by one, elegantly dressed women strode through the assembled throng, got the once-over from the doormen, and were ushered up the gangway. Baccarat glasses appeared; votives flickered in the breeze. Soon enough the lucky inviteds were shedding all but their skimpiest clothing and gyrating to hypnotic soul music—a scene straight out of a high-class porn movie. I passed by again at 5 a.m. and the celebrants were still on deck, still dancing half-naked in the predawn light. By breakfast time the ship was gone. The owners, for all I know, never got off the boat.VISJust 12.5 miles across the water from Hvar Town, the island of Vis is as insular as its neighbor is cosmopolitan, its hardscrabble landscape a far cry from Hvar's sparkle and polish. Foreign visitors were not allowed on Vis until 1989; before then the island was largely controlled by the Yugoslav army, with just a scant population of farmers and fishermen for company.A crucial strategic outpost for warding off seaborne invaders, Vis has been variously occupied by Greeks, Romans, Illyrians, Venetians, and Austro-Hungarians. Toward the end of World War II, Tito set up his Partisan headquarters in a mountain cave here and, with the help of the British, transformed the whole of Vis into a military base. During the Cold War, miles of tunnels were carved into the rock to connect subterranean barracks, gun turrets, and missile silos. Portions of the tunnels remain. Today you can comb through the rubble and find Eminem graffiti covering the skeletons of rocket launchers.From the sea, Vis seems an unforgiving hunk of rock, dotted with parched scrub and brush. Despite its desolate appearance, Vis holds remarkable natural bounty. More than 500 varieties of herbs flourish on the island (consider that the whole of England has only around 300). Climbing those scrabbly hillsides, you can grow dizzy from the scent of rosemary and sage. Asparagus, garlic, and arugula all grow wild here, alongside the mandarin-orange and carob trees—carob infuses the local grappa. There are also some passable island wines, such as the dry white Vugava and the ruby-red Plavac, which, for some reason, Viskis often dilute with ice cubes.I sampled the wild asparagus at Konoba Bako, in Komiza, where I had the best meal of my trip. Komiza is an unpretentious fishing village with few stores and cafés, and even fewer tourists. Those who come tend to gather at Konoba Bako, whose waterfront terrace makes an idyllic backdrop for simply prepared seafood. Lunch began with pristine oysters from Mali Ston, northwest of Dubrovnik, where underground springs and freshwater rivers create an ideal feeding ground for shellfish (Mali Ston oysters were purportedly a favorite of Emperor Franz Josef's). A luscious pâté of anchovies followed, then a sublimely tender stewed octopus. Finally, out came a grilled dorado, its skin as crisp as a roast chicken's, its pearlescent flesh so rich and juicy that olive oil and lemon seemed redundant.BRACBrac was always renowned for its quarries; the island's creamy white marble was used for the walls of Diocletian's Palace in nearby Split and, farther afield, for the White House. Nowadays the stone trade has ceded to the sun-and-surf market. Possessing Croatia's most famous beach, as well as a limpid bay for swimming and snorkeling, Brac is an obvious haven for sporty types. On the breezy harbor around Bol, the island's tourist hub, windsurfers slice the water like dorsal fins. The downside: Brac is becoming popular with package vacationers, and is being developed accordingly. Sprawling, chain-style resorts are still rare on the Dalmatian Coast—pensions, B&B's, and small hotels have long dominated the market here—but Brac now has more than its share of behemoths. (This may explain the preponderance of Jet Skis.)The upside: there's enough beachfront for now to accommodate the crowds. And the town of Bol, diminutive though it may be, manages to absorb the ferryloads of visitors without sacrificing its mellow, understated character. After the evening ferries depart, Bol settles into the pleasant vibe of an after-party. Still, most travelers come here on day trips from Hvar or Split and skip the town altogether, heading straight for the beach.Brac's mountainous interior is spotted like, well, a dalmatian—harsh gray stone broken by patches of scraggly maquis. Against this towering, nearly monochromatic backdrop, the coastline seems to explode in a riot of emerald greens, terra-cotta reds, and aqua blues, as if all of the island's color had long ago trickled down the hillsides to the sea. Just west of Bol, a ring of evergreens hugs the shore, shading a limestone promenade. Carpeted in pine needles and lined with vendors selling seashells, sarongs, and coral necklaces, the pathway stretches for a mile alongside 40-foot-high cliffs. Cicadas and crickets thrum in the trees. Through the forest you can catch glimpses of an impossibly blue bay glistening in the sun.Finally, the path slopes downward and you emerge onto Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape), the beach everyone comes here for. It is, even skeptics will admit, an extraordinary spot. The cape forms a V that thrusts into the bay, rimmed by a broad, flat strand of polished shale. (There are hardly any sandy beaches in Dalmatia—and if you miss the softness, you certainly don't miss the mess.) The beach slides gently into the water, translucent as an indoor swimming pool and nearly as warm. Commerce is nonexistent, except for a couple of stalls selling kiwi, melon, and coconut gelatos. The far side of the beach is reserved for nude bathers (naturism is quite the rage in Croatia) but, given the size of European bikinis, there's precious little to indicate when you've found it.Copyright © 2005 American Express Publishing Corporationhttp://msnbc.msn.com/id/8961456/http://www.travelandleisure.com/   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 20 Aug 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8334/1/E-CROATIA-BEACHES---The-best-beaches-of-Croatia.html  Croatia-Beaches.comFor many people a summer vacation means one thing - the beach and if you are determined beach-hunters, you've come to the right place.Croatia's main tourist attraction has always been its beaches. The Adriatic coast and islands are lined with amazing beaches, abounding in natural harbors, with its countless bays, ports and marinas. Croatia offers 1.778 kilometers (1.103 miles) of seaside and should you run out of the mainland, there are still over 1.000 islands to choose from (66 inhabited) with additional 4.012 kilometers (2.487 miles) of seaside. Croatia-Beaches.com reveals best Croatian beaches in several categories. Hopefully you'll find this site interesting and useful  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 20 Aug 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8333/1/E-Hungarians-flock-to-Adriatic-coast.html  Hungarians flock to Croatia's Adriatic coastMonday August 15, 2005By Patricia Fischer The most popular foreign holiday destinations for Hungarians lie along the Croatian coast, according to current surveys. More and more Hungarians are visiting Croatia; the number of visitors last year was over 400,000, and a 10% growth has been registered in the first six months of 2005. The Adriatic’s popularity is due not only to its spectacular natural scenery, but also to its accessibility. Once across the border, the coast is easily within reach via newly built, high-quality toll motorways. But despite the increasing numbers of Hungarians visiting the Mediterranean country, tourism experts stress that there is no need to worry about Croatia distracting tourists from Lake Balaton. 'I don’t think Croatia is our real competitor,' said Kornélia Kiss, head of the research department at Hungarian Tourism Rt. 'It’s quite far away, and travelers have to pay highway tolls.' Marin Skenderović, head of the local representation of the Croatian National Tourist Board, agrees that Lake Balaton and the Adriatic Sea are not comparable.'We’re talking about two different products. They are aimed at different target groups,' said Skenderović. 'Those who prefer seaside holidays do not present a significant demand for the Balaton region.' Croatia’s government has realized the importance of developing the country’s highway network – especially in those areas favored by tourists. Croatia now has a highway and motorway system stretching more than 900 kilometers – 100 kilometers of which has been completed this year. Once the decade-long highway construction program is completed in 2008, the network will be more than 1,500 kilometers in length. Skenderović is certain that the latest highway construction efforts will increase the number of Hungarians traveling to Croatia. 'Even though the tolls are not cheap,' he said, 'the speed and convenience by which Hungarians can now travel is prompting many people to make weekend getaways, in addition to typical week-long visits.' Among Hungarians, Croatia has been the second most popular holiday destination in recent years, according to the Central Statistics Office (KSH). Hungary is the sixth largest source market for tourism in Croatia, and the number of Hungarian visitors was 13% higher in 2004 than the year before. 'Germans, of course, are on top, but the growth rate of German visitors is much slower than that of Hungarians. I’m expecting approximately one million Hungarian visitors to Croatia in 5–6 years’ time,' Skenderović predicted. National traits Hungarian travel habits have not changed significantly over the last few years.'The most favored accommodation types among Hungarians are apartment houses and campsites, but there is increasing demand for hotel accommodation,' Skenderović said. Prices are at nearly the same level as they are at Lake Balaton, though a Hungarian traveler also has to factor petrol and tollway costs into the equation. Nevertheless, Hungarians are still among the top spenders in Croatia.'Hungarians rank sixth in terms of average spending on a Croatian holiday. A Hungarian spends €47 a day on average, which is close to Austrian and Dutch spending,' Skenderović said. The Croatian Tourist Board spends around Ft 50 million (about €200,000) a year to operate its Hungarian representation. The amount includes promotion costs, but this year another Ft 20 million is being spent on marketing. 'We had a television campaign, and billboards were placed all over the country, but we are also spending on study tours,' Skenderović noted. This year, the Croatian Tourist Board decided to introduce a strong promotion program in Hungary. As Skenderović claimed, the program is based upon the success of a previous large-scale campaign. 'We carried out a similar campaign in 1999,' he said. 'Back then, Croatian authorities registered a 3% increase in the number of border crossings from Hungary, which shows the effectiveness of our campaign.' Skenderović put Croatia’s planned income from tourism at €6 billion this year, 5%–6% higher than in 2004. 'Last year, nearly 5% of tourism industry income came from Hungarian travelers. That’s a high share, considering that Germany, as the main source market, generated a 20% share of last year’s income in the sector,' Skenderović concluded. http://www.bbj.hu/?module=displaystory&story_id=250180&format=html  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 19 Aug 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8337/1/E-Exploring-Croatias-overlooked-islands-By-Jeanne-Oliver.html  Exploring Croatia's overlooked islands Travels With Lonely PlanetBy Jeanne Oliver Vis' picturesque port evokes the Croatian island's pristine appeal. (Wayne Walton/Lonely Planet Images ) With 1,185 islands to choose from, you would think that visitors to Croatia might spread out a little. Instead, famous islands like Hvar, Korcula and Brac can sag under the summer crowds, while on other equally beautiful islands, Croatia's unique Mediterranean culture flourishes in peace. On three of my favorites - Vis, Pag and Cres islands - the calendar revolves around wine and olive harvests, sheepÃ,shearing, fishing and festivals. Built under Venetian rule, the centuries-old villages are enchanting, and you can laze away the day on a host of beaches. Vis: Until 1989, a visit to Vis island was as desirable as a visit to boot camp. In fact, it was a visit to boot camp. Vis was an army base in former Yugoslavia and off-limits to civilians. When the army pulled out, Croatians discovered that the lack of tourism on their "forbidden island" had left the natural splendor intact. The low, rolling hills sprout vineyards, pines and a cornucopia of wild herbs. The pristine offshore waters teem with fish, attracting fishers, scuba divers and snorkelers. Pebbly beaches stretch out from the island's two port towns, Vis town and Komiza, which contain remnants of the island's fascinating history. After exploring the Roman baths and Greek cemetery in Vis and the Venetian churches in Komiza, take a boat trip to the Blue Grotto on nearby Bisevo island. If you compare it to the Blue Grotto on Capri, islanders will quickly inform you that their grotto is bluer and better in every way. Getting there: Fly to Zagreb and then connect with a flight or drive to the coastal city of Split. Daily car ferries connect Vis with Split (the trip takes two hours) all year, and there's a daily fast boat running between Split and Vis from June-October. Where to stay: Hotel Paula (call 011-385-21-711-362; http:// www.paula-hotel.htnet.hr; doubles $100) in Vis town is a small, family-run hotel with artfully decorated rooms. Where to eat: In Vis town, Villa Kaliopa (011-385-21-711-755) serves scrumptious local dishes in the verdant gardens of a 19th-century mansion. In Komiza, Konoba Jastozera (011-385-21-713-859) specializes in lobster, but all the seafood is superb. Pag: Say "Pag island" to any Croatian, and the first response is likely to be "cheese" - as in the pungent, salty sheep cheese for which the island is renowned. Barren, rocky and nearly devoid of trees, Pag's landscape contrasts sharply with its festive and artistic culture. Along the white-stone streets of Pag town, black-clad women sit on stools, working the delicate "Pag lace" that is as prized as the cheese. On national holidays, Carnival or any other excuse for a party, everyone heads to the town square to dance the "kolo," sing old Pag tunes and drink the local Sutica wine. To the north, Novalja offers strictly 21st-century nightlife with a cluster of beach bars, cafés and discos that has become a magnet for young revelers. Quiet pleasures are also abundant. The coastline curves around two protected bays where shallow waters lap at nearly deserted sandy beaches. To recuperate from the sun and fun, you can even arrange to immerse yourself in special healing mud just outside Pag town. Getting there: Fly to Zagreb and drive to the coastal city of Zadar. From there, it's an easy drive across the causeway connecting Pag with the mainland. Where to stay and eat: The Hotel Biser (call 011-385-23-611-333; http://www.hotel-biser .com; doubles $77) is across the bay from Pag town and only a short walk to the beach. Hotel Tony (011-385-23-611-370; http:// www.hotel-tony.com; doubles $60) is a homey hotel-restaurant on a quiet cove that serves delicious food. Cres: The principal inhabitants of Cres (pronounced "Tsres”) island are sheep, the shepherds who tend them and the rare griffon vultures that feed on their carcasses. With a 10-foot wing span, these birds shouldn't be too hard to spot as they swoop down Cres' eastern cliffs. The west side of this 40-mile-long island has a wealth of hidden coves, most notably idyllic Valun at the bottom of towering hills. Pine and oak forests carpet the northern part of the island right up to the edge of Cres town, the island's capital. A scattering of Italian Renaissance structures recalls the days when this tranquil port was an important hub of the Venetian empire. Tiny Osor, with a population of 80, is a 15th-century jewel on the island's southern tip. Original sculpture adorns the restored streets, and Osor's summer Musical Evenings feature the finest classical musicians. Getting there: In July and August you can fly to Venice and take the Saturday boat to Mali Losinj, the island immediately south of Cres. It's then an easy drive across the bridge to Cres. Otherwise, fly to Zagreb and drive to Brestova on the Istrian coast, where there are frequent car ferries to Porozina on Cres island. Where to stay: There are more campgrounds on the island than hotels. In Cres town, the only hotel is the modest Hotel Kimen (call 011-385-51-571-161; http://www.hotel-kimen .com; doubles $113). Where to eat: In addition to a full array of fish and seafood, look for highly prized Cres lamb on the menu at Belona Gostionica (011-385-51-571-203). --- Jeanne Oliver wrote the first three editions of Lonely Planet's Croatia guidebook. "Travels With Lonely Planet" is coordinated by Global Travel Editor Don George. E-mail him at don.george@lonelyplanet.com .http://www.sltrib.com/travel/ci_2920327 Op-edJeanne Oliver's page is www.croatiatraveller.comHer email is: jeanne@croatiatraveller.com Shower her with compliments. She may become an honorary Croatian.Nenad Bach  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 07 Aug 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8336/1/E-PBS-Program-on-Croatias-Dalmatian-Coast---AWESOME.html  PBS Program on Croatia's Dalmatian Coast A number of years ago I persuaded Rick Steves to tape a program on bothSlovenia and Croatia and he did. Rudy Maxa just aired a program onCroatia's Dalmatian Coast on PBS two weeks ago and it is awesome! Youcan read about the program and order the tape or DVD below.Judy FeldworthCROATIA'S DALMATIAN COASTLimpid, calm waters …. rock bound coves …..and shimmering stone cities – Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is Europe’s less traveled Riviera. Ancient stone towns, renaissance palaces and romantic fortresses dot the landscape. Rocky islands --some inhabited, others wild sanctuaries, beckon across the placid sea. Fresh seafood and wine liven up the cuisine. All that and a sunny climate make Dalmatia a prime Mediterranean destination. Dalmatia is the coastal region of Croatia with a history of its own. This beautiful and strategic region has been fought over for centuries by the Romans, Venetians, Hungarians, Turks and French. Dalmatia’s more powerful neighbors took what they wanted and kept the populace in poverty. Yet through their ingenuity and independent spirit, the coastal people managed to flourish in the 15th and 16th centuries, boasting a huge merchant fleet. In the early 1990’s a devastating civil war rocked the region. Today, only the mismatched roof tiles recall that war, and tourism has returned full force. Tough, resilient, poetic and proud, Dalmatia today is thriving, and the visitor will find modern facilities, great food and warm, welcoming people.There’s something mysterious and exotic about the Dalmatian coast. You truly feel as though you have stumbled back in time amid all the turrets, towers and ancient ruins. Add to that the sun, the surf, the solitude and you having the makings of a perfect holiday. TIP: Visit www.croatia.hr (Croatian National Tourist Board) for a quick lay of the land. For extensive photo galleries of Croatia, www.photocroatia.com's your place.DUBROVNIK Dubrovnik. Named a World Heritage site for its beauty and cultural significance, this walled medieval gem once reigned as the most powerful city in the southern Adriatic.The most dramatic and romantic way to know Dubrovnik is to circumnavigate the city walls, taking in views of the town … the tiles roofs ….and the clear blue sea.The Greeks, Romans and Slavic people all populated this coast. Dubrovnik passed hands many times, but in the 15th and 16th centuries, the city remained fairly independent through the payment of tributes and shrewd alliances. Known as the City State Ragusa, Dubrovnik commanded the third largest merchant fleet in the world. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, the city walls stretch for one and a half miles and are as high as 80 feet in some places. TIP: For more on Dubrovnik as a major tourist destination, read Time Europe Magazine's article from the series Secret Capitals at www.time.com. STRADUN TO THE HARBOR The limestone main street, Stradun, polished by centuries of passersby, marches straight through Stari Grad, Dubrovnik’s beautifully preserved old quarter. The city enforces strict rules about upkeep of homes – and signage for shops is limited to a discreet name on the lantern above the door.At the far end of the Stradun a gate leads to the picturesque harbor. Here, women sell traditional handicrafts and ships come and go into the walled inlet. In the 16th century, Dubrovnik’s sea trade reached its zenith and boats regularly sailed from here to the far corners of the globe. Today enormous cruise ships often loom in the harbor and the streets midday suddenly overflow with tourists.TIP: For a list of monthly events in Dubrovnik, including performances by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra on the Stradun, go to web.tzdubrovnik.hr. FRANCISCAN MONASTERYRoman Catholicism is the religion of the Croat; the Serbs belong to the Eastern Orthodox church. Neighboring Serbia differs culturally as well – influenced by the eastern Roman empire, whereas the west dominated in Dalmatia. Catholicism flourished here, as Popes promoted the building of monasteries and churches. In Dubrovnik’s 14th century Franciscan Monastery, you can wander through lovely cloisters where animal and human heads adorn the dual columns.Preserved within the monastery is the pharmacy, established in 1391, and one of the oldest in Europe. The monks concocted cures from plant roots and bark and extracted poison from snakes for anti-venom.TIP: Interested in historical Dubrovnik? You can find a list of churches, palaces, fortresses, and monuments at www.dubrovnik-online.com. GRAND PALACE HOTEL Most of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located outside of the old town. At the newly renovated Grand Palace Hotel, every room commands a stunning view of the sea.Here swimming pools nearly merge with the sea and there’s an open air restaurant where you can gaze out and plan your route to the islands.TIP: Treat yourself to a stay at www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. THE ISLAND OF LOKRUM If you crave a beach break, you can grab a water taxi to the wooded island Lokrum, just 10 minutes away. In fact, for the best beaches, it’s a good tip to get out of the major towns and take water taxis to nearby islands.Water taxis ferry people to and from the island and take about 10 minutes. You can also sign up for cruises to various islands for picnics or nature walks. The shore of the island is rocky, with built in ladders to help swimmers down into the sea. A side benefit of the trip is the chance to see Dubrovnik as have so many centuries of invaders, traders, and pirates.TIP: A regular boat service runs every half hour to Lokrum. You'll find the details at the bottom of the page dubrovnik.laus.hr. For a line on boat charters, check out this short list.ISLAND HOPPINGThe Dalmatian coast can be explored entirely by boat. Ferries run to all the major towns and cities. Or you can rent a sailboat or yacht and design your own itinerary. With over 1100 islands and countless private coves, this gorgeous archipelago is a boater’s paradise.Croatia today evokes Greece a couple of decades ago --- a vast number of islands set in the cleanest water of the Mediterranean, unspoiled and inexpensive. With a boat the possibilities are endless – un-crowded waters, …well-equipped marinas …and countless private isles you can make your own for an afternoon. For the moment, Croatia manages to balance tourism with unspoiled beauty. TIP: July and August are busy months, so plan your ferry route early. The Croatian ferry company Jadrolinija runs the majority of routes in the country. You'll find them at www.jadrolinija.hr. For more ferry companies in Croatia as well as information about sailing holidays, be sure to visit www.visit-croatia.co.uk.THE VILLAGE OF STON A great excursion from Dubrovnik takes in Penninsula then we island hop to stunning Korcula.Little more than an hour’s drive from Dubrovnik, I came upon a walled town that once provided the Ragusa Republic with riches. In 1333 when the wall around Ston was completed it was the 2nd largest fortification after the Great Wall of China.The republic of Ragusa built walls around the town of Ston to protect the saltworks, a series of shallow pools in the bay where salt is still collected today. All the residents of this tiny town were required to harvest salt by hand. Two witnesses had to observe any sale of salt to prevent fraud.TIP: You'll find more about Ston at www.croatia.hr. THE VILLAGE OF MALI STON Next door to Ston, the little fishing village Mali Ston offers the best seafood in Croatia. Oyster and mussel beds dot the bay at Mali Ston. The picturesque walled town formed another important fortification along the Ragusa republic’s northern defenses. Today, the town restaurants serve up all kinds of fish, mussels and Croatia’s best oysters. Seafood is the coastal staple here in Croatia. Even Italy imports Croatian fish because they say the seafood is better along the rocky coastline on this side of the Adriatic.Mali Ston is quintessential Croatia – a gentle fishing village lost in time.TIP: Find out more about Mali Ston at www.croatia.hr. If you'd like to know a great place to relax and taste the region's cuisine, visit the restaurant Rudy visits in this show: Vila Koruna. TIP: There's a great website for the Peljesac Penninsula on which you'll find lots of info on the towns, plenty of maps, and pictures. THE GRGICH WINERY The Peljesac Penninsula also produces some of Croatia’s finest wines.The grapes in the overgrown vineyards here ripen and sweeten in the sun reflecting off of the sea. At the Grgich winery east meets west. Owner Mike Grgich was born in Croatia but he took his winemaking skills to California to produce world class Zinfandel and Chardonnay. After Croatia gained its independence, Grgich returned to start a small winery. Grgich claims the Plavac Mali grape grown here is a cousin of the Californian Zinfandel. The estate produces a red Plavac Mali and white Posip wines.TIP: Want to find the winery? Here's the address. If you want to know more about Croatian wines and winemakers, as well as where to find them, www.hrvatska-vina.com's the the place for you. If that's not enough, check out www.chiff.com as well.TIP: If you find those fancy Croatian wine labels tough to read, www.hr will clear up any confusion in a hurry. TIP: Finally, Mike Grgich has been producing wines at the Grgich Hills vineyards, in the heart of California's Napa Valley, since 1977. Be sure to visit the Grgich Hills website for the great story of how Miljenko “Mike” Grgich first gained international recognition.KORCULA The Peljesac Penninsula offers sandy beaches and pleasant towns, but the real gem lies across the water from the town of Orebic. The car ferry at Orebic carries passengers 2 miles across to the island of Korcula and to the stunning town for which the island is named.Perhaps the most romantic of all the Croatian walled beauties, Korcula makes a spectacular first impression. The town took its present form from the 13th to 15th centuries. The streets curve to form a leaf-like grid to minimize the effects of a strong northeast wind and to maximize cool breezes from the west. Grey stone houses, red tiled roofs, fortress walls and a splash of green palm trees --- Korcula town makes an idyllic island retreat. Korcula claims adventurer Marco Polo as their native son. Many experts agree Marco Polo came from Croatia, but from which town, no one is certain. Yet it was surely in these waters off of Korcula in 1298, that a battle raged between Venice and Genoa and Marco Polo was captured. Later, in a Genoa prison he recounted his travels to a fellow inmate who wrote them down. For swimming, touring, stopping at towns or monasteries, a boat trip from the island makes for a great adventure. On my trip I hit a sudden squall and caught Korcula looking quite dramatic.The Venetian influence in Korcula is manifested in lacy architecture. From the 10th century, Venice controlled much of Dalmatia for some 800 years. Korcula’s main cathedral, St Marks, features expert carvings in its pale limestone, some by 15th century artisans from Italy. Limestone quarries on the island provided Dubrovnik with stone and master carvers from the republic taught Korcula artisans their craft.TIP: The town of Korcula is also well known for its dramatic sword dance, Moreska. Find out the story of this fascinating dance, as well as where to find others in Croatia, at www.korculainfo.com. TIP: For a great 3D map of Korcula town, including ferry locations, check out www.korculainfo.com. When you've had your fill of the town, hop a catamaran up the coast to Split. Here's the schedule.THE CITY OF SPLIT With a car, you can explore other towns and beaches on the island. You can even search the internet or travel agencies for vacation homes to rent in a private cove along this gorgeous coastline.Back on the mainland, we tour the ancient city of Spilt and its neighbor, little Trogir, then hop a ferry to one last island, Hvar.Croatia’s second largest city, Split began as a Roman Palace and today a jumble of centuries exist within its glorious shell.Split sprang from a Roman emperor’s desire to retire to the peaceful, secluded Dalmatian paradise where he was born. The year was 295, and after years of trying to whip the empire in shape and ruthlessly persecuting Christians, the emperor Diocletian opted out. He built a colossal palace – over a million square feet of apartments, temples, barracks and baths. The largest private residence in the ancient world, Dioletian’s retreat survives in remarkably good shape. The peristyle or open square with its granite columns once served as the public meeting place and grand entranceway to the imperial quarters. Diocletian spared no expense, importing what were even to him ancient black granite sphinxes from Egypt that date all the way from the 15th century BC. The mausoleum of Diocletian later became a Christian church – St Dominus. The principal structure and the dome, which was once covered in gold – date from Diocletian’s day. Baroque chapels, 3rd century Corinthian columns, and 13th century walnut and oak doors make for a dazzling hotchpotch of styles. To get a sense of the vastness of the palace, take a trip below to the unadorned underground where the layout of the rooms mirrors the palace rooms that once stood above. TIP: For interesting detail on the palace, take a look at the on-line article from the Australian National University. SPLIT ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Just outside the city center, the evocative Split Archeological Museum, takes us back to Diocletian’s roots. Here in a lovely courtyard you can wander among sarcophagi from ancient town Salona, where Diocletian was born.Enchanting mosaics and eerily life like tomb sculptures are jumbled together in a way that makes you feel you are discovering them for the first time. The city of Salona or Solin was located four miles northeast of Split. A great Roman city in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, Salona was the capitol of Dalmatia. In Diocletian’s time the city had a population of 60,000 and many splendid buildings. The tombs often depict couples and the realistic portraits demonstrate great sculptural command.The most remarkable piece in the collection: a glowing tomb illustrating the Greek story of Phaedra, who falls in love with her stepson and then kills herself. The tomb was buried with the relief side protected by a building, thus the remarkable preservation. TIP: Find Croatian museums on the internet, go to www.mdc.hr. CROATIAN NECKTIES In 1635, a group of Croatian mercenaries arrived in Paris to lend aid to King Louis XIII. The French were immediately struck by the soldier’s silk scarves which they tied loosely around their necks. The fashion caught fire. The French called the scarf la croat which later turned into la cravate, and thus the modern necktie was born. Croatian neckties are made of silk and handcrafted. The designs reflect the mingling of east and west – a touch of the exotic mingled with a classic design.(soundbite) I think it says buy this tie in ancient Croatian … buy this tie… buy this tie .. buy this tieTIP: Boutique Croata has many locations in Croatia. Visit their homepage for address and phone info. There, you can also order neckties to your heart's content.THE MESTROVIC MUSEUM For something completely different and more modern in Split, the Mestrovic Gallery houses a collection of sculpture by Ivan Mestrovic. The artist was born on the coast in 1883. An illiterate Shepard boy, Mestrovic began attracting attention with his wood carvings and was soon apprenticed to a stone carver in Split. His work went on to receive international acclaim. Mestrovic’s sculptures are influenced by Greek classical art and inspired by religion and Croatian nationalism. His fluid lines and swooning bodies are sensual, poignant and powerful.TIP: The museum hosts many fascinating "virtual walks" of the collection, as well as the grounds, at www.mdc.hr.TROGIR Nestled on a small island, the little town of Trogir is a car free open air museum with splendid 13th to 15th century buildings on display.An hour’s drive north of Split, romantic Trogir makes a nice day trip. The narrow streets of the town reverberate with history. First the Greeks settled here, then the Romans established an important port. In the 10th century, Venice and Hungary warred for possession of the Dalmatian coast and Trogir sided with the Hungarians in exchange for a degree of independence. Art and architecture flourished. In the 15th century Venice finally took over the town and added its own distinctive style.Here, as elsewhere in Croatian towns, economic and comfortable accommodations can be had by renting local apartments. Travel agents and the internet are great resources.Trogir’s gloriously faded stone streets are some of the narrowest and most evocative in Croatia. The town was also named a World Heritage site.TIP: You'll find an excellent on-line city guide of Trogir and the surrounding area at www.trogir-online.com. Also, for a quick tour of the city, visit www.e-trogir.com and select the site links along the right side of your screen.HVAR A long day trip from Split or an ideal getaway for a few days our last island stop awaits.We’re docking at another spectacular island, Hvar. Pirates once cruised these waters until the Venetians drove them out in the 13th century, then the town flourished.The Venetian legacy of fine carving and renaissance palaces graces Hvar town, the most beautiful town on the island. In the 15th century, Hvar grew quite wealthy, as all Venetian boats stopped here en route to and from Venice. Today the island town attracts wealthy European vacationers.A pleasant afternoon can be had strolling along the waterfront and shopping for lavender products. Lavender grows in profusion on the hillsides and you can purchase the perfumed herb in many forms. A long seaside walkway hugs the shore and meanders past rocky coves and small beaches. At the end of the promenade, a 15th century Franciscan Monastery stands watch over a sleepy cove. Here too, water taxis ferry people to islands for swimming or exploring. Some vacation rentals on the island include a boat for guests.Sweet views can be had from the Fortress Spanjol, a fortified medieval castle built to defend against attacks from all the invaders who coveted these shores.TIP: There's quite a wealth of information on-line if you're getting ready to visit this getaway, or even if you just want to know more. Our top three picks: www.hvar.hr, www.hvar-travel.com, and www.sunnyhvar.com. The ferry schedules alone from various locations along the Dalmatian coast are especially helpful.VISIT CROATIA Croatia captivates. With its translucent waters,…. secluded islands,…. and walled towns: …no wonder people have battled for this land for centuries. Countless travelers who have ventured here for a quick stop have found themselves abandoning their plans and staying longer in this enchanted land. Here on an island forgotten by time, there is nothing to do but enjoy some fresh local seafood and wine and watch the sun set over the blue coves of the Mediterranean. From Paradise Found, I’m Rudy Maxa on the Dalmatian coast. TIP: The Croatian Embassy in London provides a helpful "mini guide." Take advantage of this handy travel resource by visiting croatia.embassyhomepage.com. Next to the waterfalls picture, click on create a mini guide and check just the type of information you'd like to include in the guide. When you're done, click on "create mini guide" at the bottom of the page. Print the result for your convenience, or you can send it along to a friend.http://www.smarttravels.tv/SmartTravels/europe/tips%20&%20links/Croatias_Dalmatian_Coast.htm    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 06 Aug 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8343/1/E-GOING-TO-Zagreb---The-New-York-Times.html  GOING TO Zagreb - The New York TimesBy ALEX CREVAR Published: May 1, 2005 WHY GO NOW -- There's a bubbling just below the surface in Zagreb, the Croatian capital of one million people, and most visitors sense it instantly. It's a well-worn, East-meets-West passion called Balkan culture that equally embraces a consumer's desire to visit a newly opened fragrance shop and the cafe next door where an entire goat turns slowly on a spit. On just about any weekend afternoon, you'll find shoppers strolling along Ilica, the city's main promenade, toting Max Mara and Louis Vuitton bags. They pass vendors selling chestnuts and cafes with rich wood interiors and billowy couches on marble floors. The promenade gives way to the busy, expansive Jelacic Square where people cluster beneath bistro awnings or near theaters. In Zagreb, one of the most overlooked cities in Europe, high fashion, more than 50 museums and galleries, and an urban plan simple enough for the most directionally challenged combine intriguingly with the charms and chutzpah of an Old World city that is still coming to grips with modernity. But as Zagreb dons a new attitude, one might presume its main goal is to prepare for hordes of tourists taking advantage of a non-euro economy. Not so, says an official at Zagreb's Office for Culture, Davor Zagar, who notes that the makeovers to theaters and pedestrians zones, along with an expanded social calendar -- keeping jazz aficionados as happy as folkloric dancers -- are as much for Purgers (Zagrebians) as they are for tourists. WHERE TO STAY -- Zagreb's lack of tourism savoir-faire is a boon for those hoping to unearth the undiscovered. But when it comes to hotels, this doesn't necessarily translate into bargains. An adequate option starting at $72 a night, at 5.75 kuna to the dollar, is the tidy, comfortable 22-room Hotel Ilica, conveniently situated at Ilica 102, (385-1) 377-7622, www.hotel-ilica.hr. But most hotels in Zagreb's center were built for a bourgeois set that started visiting at the end of the 19th century. The grand Regent Esplanade was recently reopened after a restoration of its Carrara marble and Art Deco interior. Situated next to the train station -- itself a renovated neo-classical gem -- at Mihanoviceva 1, the Esplanade was built in 1925 as a posh stop along the Orient Express. The 209 lavish and ''wireless'' rooms range from $285 to $1,980. Information: (385-1) 456-6666, www.regenthotels.com. Built in 1891 in the Secessionist style, the Palace Hotel, Strossmayerov trg 10, is the city's oldest hotel. About half of the 123 rooms, which cost from $160 to $415, have been renovated, while the others retain the ornate Art Nouveau look. The Palace's plush cafe provides a vantage point from which to watch fashionable Croats gathering in Strossmayer Square. Information: (385-1) 481-4611, www.palace.hr. The Hotel Dubrovnik, Gajeva 1, with its glass facade, was opened in 1929. Many of the 266 rooms -- all sleekly furnished and equipped with satellite TV -- overlook Jelacic (pronounced YEH-lah-chich) Square. Rates range from $140 to $280. Information: (385-1) 487-3555, www.hotel-dubrovnik.htnet.hr. WHERE TO EAT -- Most of Zagreb's restaurants offer a combination of the Eastern European, grilled-meat leitmotif and Mediterranean fare. For instance, Baltazar, Nova Ves 4, (385-1) 466-6999, has an upscale-casual ambience. Baltazar's veal medallions or Gaspar's pick-your-own fish pair nicely with dingac (red) or grasevina (white) wines. Try the medovaca, a honey brandy, and enjoy the fireplace in the winter or terrace in summer. A meal for two, with wine, runs about $80. Kerempuh, at Kaptol 3, (385-1) 481-9000, provides a front-row view of the frenetic Dolac farmer's market and a traditional menu that changes with each day's purchases. The sarma (cooked cabbage stuffed with mincemeat) is wonderful. A meal for two, with drinks, is around $30. It's a good sign when local residents stare at you as if happily surprised that an outsider discovered their spot. Vallis Aurea, Tomiceva 4, (385-1) 483-1305 -- under the funicular connecting Upper and Lower Town -- is that kind of place. The smoked pork ribs on Monday or trout on Wednesday are can't-misses. Lunch or dinner with a liter of house wine is $25. WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY -- Zagreb has two halves. Upper Town, the old city dating back to the 11th century, is chock-full of red tile roofs and cobblestones privy to a millennium of secrets. Lower Town is a 19th-century invention, where most of the city's museums are intertwined with parks and cafes. The synapse linking this yin and yang is Jelacic Square. Jelacic is the hub for the rumbling trams (fare is about $1) that crisscross town. The City Museum, Opaticka 20, (385-1) 485-1364, www.mdc.hr/mgz, tells Zagreb's story, complete with room-sized models of town, starting in 1094, when the Hungarian King Ladislaus I founded the bishopric of Zagreb. Admission is about $3.50; closed Monday. Also in Upper Town, Ivan Mestrovic's Studio, Mletacka 8, (385-1) 485-1123, www.mdc.hr/mestrovic/atelijer/opci-en.htm, ($3.50), is where Croatia's most famous sculptor worked and many of his pieces still stand. Southeast of the museums, the Upper Town's remaining feudal Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata) is a holy site, where the devout light candles before a painting of the Virgin Mary and Jesus that survived a devastating fire in 1731. You'll shift into the 19th century as you stroll past the Lower Town's Viennese-style, pastel mansions. The Mimara Museum -- Zagreb's major art museum -- at Rooseveltov trg 5, (385-1) 482-8100, has a collection that includes Greek sculptures, and paintings by Rembrandt and Rubens. Admission $3.50; closed Monday. Nearby is the Modern Gallery, at Hebranga 1, (385-1) 492-2368, ($3.50), with some 10,000 works of Croatian art from the 19th century to the present, and the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, Trg Nikole Subica Zrinskog 11, (385-1) 489-5117, ($1.75), displaying pieces by such artists as El Greco and Bellini. Anchoring the ''green horseshoe, '' a U-shaped series of parks that envelope Lower Town, is the 11.6-acre Botanical Gardens, Trg Marulica 9a, (385-1) 484-4002. Free. WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT -- There seem to be as many cafe-bars in Zagreb as people; most of them charge around $2 for a beer or a glass of wine. Boban, Ljudevita Gaja 9, (385-1) 481-1549, www.boban.hr, is atrendy restaurant and cafe-bar a block south of Jelacic. It has outdoor seating,and attracts trendy tourists and locals alike. For live music, there are many clubs that charge little or no cover. Near the mammoth cathedral, Purgeraj, Park Ribnjak 1, (385-1) 481-4734, www.purgeraj.hr, attracts an eclectic crowd for everything from rockabilly to disco. The BP Club, Teslina 7, (385-1) 481-4444, www.bpclub.hr, is owned by Croatia's top jazzman, the vibe master Bosko Petrovic. Solid players regularly show up and when they do, the small, mirrored interior seems to vibrate. Southwest of the center, on Lake Jarun, Aquarius, (385-1) 364-0231, www.aquarius.hr, ($11 cover), plays host to a stream of international guest D.J.'s. There are, of course, many ways to spend an evening. The Croatian National Theater, Trg marsala Tita 15, (385-1) 482-8532, www.hnk.hr, is the main venue for opera and drama. Verdi's ''Traviata'' will be presented in June. Ticket prices range from about $6 to $35. WHERE TO SHOP -- Heading west from Jelacic, Ilica is packed with boutiques, where one can find local fashion and international designs, staggered with art, fishmongers and ice cream shops. Just off Ilica, between the so-called Flower Square (for its flower stalls) and Jelacic are the classy cornerstones Escada, Gunduliceva 15, (385-1) 487-5577, and Lacoste, Frankopanska 12, (385-1) 492-3541. For local flavor, visit Croata, Kaptol 13, (385-1) 481-4600, www.croata.hr, specializing in ties and high-end accessories. With your purchase (silk ties are $25 to $70), shoppers can get a lesson about neckties, which originated in Croatia. The French began dressing à la croate in the 1600's, naming the accessory la cravate. To really shop like a local, head to Dolac, directly above Jelacic. This daily outdoor market has everything from fresh produce to cheeses to wooden toys. Continue north to Bornstein, Kaptol 19, (385-1) 481-2361, to taste hundreds of labels like Stagnum ($44), made from the Dalmatian varietal plavac mali, a close relative to zinfandel. Closed Sunday. HOW TO STAY WIRED -- There are several Internet cafes near Jelacic; most charge about $2.70 an hour. Ch@rlie's, Ljudevita Gaja 4a, (385-1) 488-0233, is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Café VIP, Trg Preradoviceva 5, (385-1) 483-0089, is in the Flower Square. YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH -- Zagreb's calling card is its 344-foot, 788-year-old Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Kaptol 31. Meant to inspire awe, its monumental Gothic towers succeed wholeheartedly. Due west, in Upper Town, is vibrant Tkalciceva Street. This pedestrian-only avenue teems with cafes, where old and young drink espresso and pivo (beer). Melin Monroe, Tkalciceva 47, is an ideal spot to debate who represents Croatia more, the world champion skier Janica Kostelic or the Olympic champion handball team. You'll pay about $2 for a local pivo and $1 for an espresso. HOW TO GET -- There Prices start around $900 from New York, but there are no direct flights. An option is to fly to major cities in Europe and connect with Croatia Airlines, www.croatiaairlines.com, or Lufthansa, www.lufthansa.com. Another is to take a train from a more popular airport. Zagreb is on the Venice (seven hours) and Vienna (6.5 hours) lines, www.hznet.hr. HOW TO GET AROUND -- Zagreb was made for walking. Nearly everything you'll do is a 20-minute trek from Jelacic Square. But when the urge grabs you to explore outside the center -- a hike or skiing on Mount Medvednica, for instance -- you can take a 15-minute tram ride to the mountain's base. Tram maps can be found at the Tourist Info office, Trg bana Josipa Jelacica 11, (385-1) 481-4051,www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. http://travel2.nytimes.com/mem/travel/article-page.html?res=990CE1DC1231F932A35756C0A9639C8B63&fta=y   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8342/1/E-Svelte-and-majestic-the-lighthouses-of-Croatia.html  Svelte and majestic, the lighthouses of Croatia Tourists arrive at the lighthouse of most remote central Adriatic island of Palagruza. The initiative to open the lighthouses to tourists was launched by the state-run company Plovput, in charge of maritime security but also of maintenance of some fifty lighthouses scattered alongside the 1,770-kilometer (1,097-mile) Adriatic coast from the Istria peninsula in north to the southern town of Dubrovnik.(AFP/File/Hrvoje Polan)  Tue Jul 12, 6:37 PM ETISLAND OF DUGI OTOK, Croatia (AFP) - Svelte and majestic, the lighthouse of Veli Rat dominates the crystal waters of the Adriatic above the central Croatian town of Zadar, providing an unusual perch for vacationers on their summer holidays."To spend a vacation here you have to make a reservation a year in advance," said Zvonimir Skorcevic, the lighthouse keeper who has seized the opportunity to become a tourist guide as well.Veli Rat lighthouse, on Dugi Otok island, has two apartments for rent. For the past few days, Zvonimir, his wife Alenka and their daughter, Ivana, have been hosting two Dutch families."If they want, tourists can climb 164 spiral stairs to the top of my 40-meter (132-feet) lighthouse to enjoy a striking unobstructed view of the sea," said Zvonimir with a smile to a panting visitor at the top of the stairs.State-run company Plovput, which is in charge of maritime security including some 50 lighthouses scattered along Croatia's 1,770-kilometer (1,097-mile) Adriatic coast, is responsible for the new open-house policy for tourists."Since 2000 when we launched this idea we have renovated and opened 12 lighthouses to tourists, situated on the islands and the coast," said Neven Seric, a Plovput official.The vast majority of the lighthouses were built in the 19th century, when Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and the oldest dates back to 1810. Some are proclaimed national monuments, said Seric.But spending a vacation on a lighthouse also means respecting certain rules including strict light discipline at night -- no bonfires on the beach after dark.Most tourists bring their own food but Plovput can take care of that as well for an extra fee. All the lighthouses opened for tourists have electricity and running water. Plovput takes care of transfers to and from the islands, along with fishing trips with the lighthouse keeper.Each lighthouse is a unique mixture of history and legend. In Veli Rat, Zvonimir explained that the lighthouse still looked clean and fresh inside because when it was built in 1849 it had been decorated with a special paint."It's a mixture based on thousands of egg-whites in order to resist rough sea winds," he said.Located on the edge of a pine forest, Veli Rat dominates an emerald green bay and is surrounded by beautiful pebble beaches.Croatia hosted some eight million tourists last year, almost double its population. Tourism is a mainstay of the economy, generating revenues of up to seven billion euros (8.4 billion dollars) last year.A lighthouse apartment costs up to 1,000 euros (1,200 dollars) a week to rent in high season, but Plovput officials claim profit is not their motive."The income is used only to maintain and renovate our lighthouses," said Seric.Adriatica.net, Plovput's partner in the lighthouses project, gives a briefing for "amateur lighthouse keepers".One of the most important pieces of advice is to "bring your own washing-up liquid." And of course: "Pets are not allowed".http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20050712/lf_afp/afplifestyleholidaysaccommodationcroatia_050712223754  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8341/1/E-A-Peaceful-Solution-in-Croatian-Islands.html  A Peaceful Solution in Croatian IslandsBy Angus PhillipsSunday, June 19, 2005; Page E04VIS, CROATIA There's not much sign on this rocky island in the Adriatic of the war that ripped the former Yugoslavia apart a decade ago. Indeed, from all visible signs, war barely touched that nation's coastal islands, being confined mostly to the mainland where city names like Mostar, Srebrenica and Kosovo conjure visions of ethnic cleansing and horrors unspeakable.But an unease still lingers in the faces of the locals, and when three explosions rumbled down from the barren hills overlooking the harbor here one day last week, all eyes turned upward in apprehension. Moments later an armed boat with Policija emblazoned on its side and two armed men in the cockpit sped from the town quay to investigate.The view to the harbor from the ancient fortress at Hvar, just off Split in Croatia. The country's islands were barely touched by war. (By Angus Phillips For The Washington Post) The source of the staccato blasts and the puffs of powdered stone that followed them turned out to be just another road-clearing project. But the universal, wary reaction brought home the nearness of that awful civil war, which ravaged the seaside city of Dubrovnik not far south and knocked sideways the tourist trade for which the Dalmatian coast was justifiably known.The pretty islands between Split and Dubrovnik are rallying. Last week seven of us from the Chesapeake area toured them in a 41-foot sailing catamaran, stopping in at Hvar, Vis, Brac, Korcula and other picturesque outposts where 1,000-year-old towns spill down to the sea on lanes of worn, slippery marble. It's a difficult region not to fall in love with, with its olive groves and grape arbors, delicious fresh seafood and wine."Drink all you like," said the cheery waiter at a little outdoor seafood restaurant here in Vis, where we inhaled a local bouillabaisse called brodetto and mopped up the aromatic tomato gravy with crusty bread. He was delivering our second bottle of the local white wine, which he said would leave us all "happy tomorrow, no headache, no problems." At $3 or $4 a bottle, who could say no?We are far from alone. In addition to charter boats like ours, the passages between islands were dotted with traditional tourist motorboats that carry 30 or 40 passengers from spot to pleasant spot, with clients coming from as far away as South Africa and Australia. They pay a modest $400 to $500 a week per person for tiny cabins for two and two meals a day, a bargain almost anywhere by today's standards.The weather and ambience of the Croatian coast is a lot like that of Italy or the south of France, but without the crowds or the high prices, at least for now. That's because Croatia is still rebounding from decades of iron Communist rule under Marshal Tito, which ended with his death in 1980, followed by 10 years of confusion and 10 more of civil war and its awful aftereffects.The witty American writer P.J. O'Rourke once wrote a book called "Holidays in Hell," in which he went from one nightmarish, war-torn quagmire to another in search of fun. He didn't find much. Anyone who read it would have been unlikely to put Croatia at the top of his list in the 1990s, when it was clawing through and then out of the clutch of ferocious armed conflict.But it's peaceful here now, and as beautiful as ever. The towns on the islands are small, the houses modest, the roads and lanes of polished stone, the churches cool and dark. Dining is largely outdoors, where the weather is Mediterranean. The sailing winds are mostly from the south and strong enough to test a charter crew's skills.Nick Harvey of Annapolis and his girlfriend, Danielle Launais, arranged our charter. He's the North American distributor for Lagoon catamarans, so he worked out a friendly trade for a Lagoon here. He's the regular mid-deck hand on my boat on Wednesday night races back home, but he's the skipper and taking his responsibilities seriously. Every morning when we get up, Harvey addresses the crew, which includes Andy and Caroline Hughes, Teresa O'Keefe and my wife, Fran. He maps out the upcoming day.The itinerary usually includes stops at two islands as we slowly make our way 100 miles south from the mainland city of Split to Dubrovnik. The sailing is smooth, the boat responsive, the sun is warm and the sea is clear and clean. It's close to perfection, though still a bit chilly for sunbathing.We drag out the charts and map the course from Vis to Hvar to Korcula to Lastovo, and come into the sunlit little ports with all sails flying, marveling at the soft perfection of the terra cotta roofs and pale ochre of the stone streets and houses.You are struck by the simple beauty of it all, and wonder how it must have felt to be here just over a decade ago, when the world abandoned this pretty country place, and its people bombed and shot and raped each other in a ruthless rush for power and control.http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/06/18/AR2005061800648.html  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8340/1/E-In-Croatia-a-New-Riviera-Beckons-YOU-will-cry-when-you-see-it.html In Croatia, a New Riviera Beckons  YOU will cry when you see itStephen Crowley/The New York TimesThe harbor of Hvar, mountainous and lavender-scented, in the foreground.  July 17, 2005In Croatia, a New Riviera BeckonsBy STEVE DOUGHERTY"YOU will cry when you see it. Bring tissues. You willneed them." We are finishing a marathon meal at Macondo, a seafoodrestaurant on a nameless back alley in Hvar. My dinnercompanion, a local painter, writer and actor namedNiksa Barisic, was talking about a historic theaterbuilt in 1612 during the Dalmatian Renaissance andstill in use half a millennium later. But he couldjust as well have been describing his feelings forHvar itself, a mountainous, lavender-scented isle setin the blue, sun-blasted Adriatic Sea off theDalmatian coast of Croatia.For centuries, the island has lured visitors andinspired poets. "I know paradise now, I know Hvar," alyric local saying goes. Now, 10 years after the endof a bloody civil war that devastated much of Croatia,it still struggles as it sees hope for its future inancient tourist meccas like Hvar, sister islands likeKorcula and Mljet, and Dubrovnik - Croatia's, and,arguably, Europe's, most beautiful city.Recently rediscovered as an off-the-radar haven by theinternational celebrity set and their media-campfollowers, Dubrovnik and Dalmatia's many romanticislands and hidden coves provided backdrops for lavishphoto layouts in magazines like GQ, which this yearproclaimed the Croatia "the Next Riviera, " and SportsIllustrated. In May, Croatia, a scythe-shaped countrythat sits astride the star-crossed, blood-drenchedBalkans, was named the world's hottest traveldestination in the new edition of the Lonely Planetguide to Croatia, which cited its "rich diversity ofattractions," accessibility and "relativeaffordability" (its currency, the kuna, is farfriendlier to the dollar than the euro is) as well asits "stunning beaches and islands" and "magnificentfood."Stephen Crowley/The New York TimesSome reach the Croatian island of Hvar, in the Adriatic, by yacht. That's a surprising turnaround for a country that sawits most fabled city, Dubrovnik, nearly destroyed byartillery bombardments during a months-long siege inthe 1991-95 war. With eight million visitors expectedin Croatia this summer, the government-run nationaltourist board has begun a campaign to restore tourismto its prewar levels, when upward of 10 millionvisitors annually flocked to the beaches of Dalmatiaand Istria, the neighboring coastal province to thenorth. Back then, the tourist industry accounted for afull third of Croatia's national income. Tourismofficials say that the number of visitors has grown 6to 10 percent in each of the past several years.Nowhere is the tourist board's touted "MagicalCroatia" brand more fitting than on Hvar, where theygive names to the wind but not the streets, wherechildren are said to fly and the richest man in theworld has to wait for his latte during fjaka, when theisland tucks in for its afternoon siesta. Holding court at Macondo, Mr. Barisic, a burly,bearded cross between Jerry Garcia and Zorba theGreek, is quick to cackle at his own stories and eagerto share his knowledge and love for Hvar and itsbounty. "You must be careful," he cautioned as hepoured me a glass of the rich local red, strong as itis delicious. "One glass you won't feel; have two, youwon't feel a thing." Describing Hvar (awkward in English, it's pronouncedhwahr) as a "hideaway for the creative poor and thevery rich," Mr. Barisic said, "Celebrities like tocome here because they're left alone. Bill Gates sailsin on his yacht and no one pays any attention. No onecares. There are no paparazzi, no fans, no autographs.I was in a cafe with my daughter and a lady sat downat the next table. My daughter said, 'Dad, that's thelady from "Shakespeare in Love." ' "Gwyneth Paltrow is among the many red-carpet facesseen blending in with the crowds in recent summers."It gets to be like 42nd Street around here in Julyand August," Mr. Barisic said the next afternoon as hesipped a whiskey-laced coffee in one of Hvar's outdoorcafes. "No one sleeps during the season. Everyone isjumping around, singing and roaming the streets untildawn."The scene is hard to imagine during a visit in lateMarch, when the sun-drenched square, a wide piazzafrom the 13th century paved with polished white stonemined on Hvar and its sister island, Brac (the samestone was used in Split to build the palace of theRoman emperor Diocletian and, 16 centuries later, theWhite House) is deserted during fjaka.Toddlers chase pigeons across the square, squealingwith delight. Elderly men smoke in the cool shadowscast by the bell tower of the 16th-century Cathedralof St. Stephen, which forms the picturesque west faceof the square. A three-legged dog, a red scarf tied at its neck,trots as best it can behind its master who, like mostdog owners here, carries a leash but seldom has usefor it. Dogs here are a well-trained lot who obeyvoice commands and stroll in and out of the open-aircafes as they please. Their owners don't botherscooping up after them. That work is left toprofessionals, street cleaners who do an excellent jobkeeping tourists' Manolo sandals unsoiled during theraucous high season.My friend Buga Novak, a Hvar-born translator andinterpreter who lives in Zagreb, took me on a walkingtour of Hvar town. Strolling the riva, the longwaterfront promenade that winds around the harbor, shepointed out a hilltop fortress and the remains of citywalls that were built in the 13th century to defendagainst Turkish pirates. Far above, another fortress,built by Napoleon, one in a long list of invaders,today bristles not with cannon but with instruments torecord seismological and meteorological data. On summer nights, when the fortifications above areilluminated and fishing boats bob at anchor in theharbor, films are shown in an open-air theater whereaudiences sit at tables, drinks are served and, Ms.Novak says, the chatter and action off screen can beas entertaining as the film.In front of the Hotel Palace, children play at thebase of the Pillar of Shame, where in the Middle Agessinners were tied up for display, jeered at and spatupon. Nearby, water taxis line up along the riva toferry summer hordes of beer-cooler toting "naturists"- the guidebook euphemism for those who like toperform their sun worshiping naked - to the island'shighly popular offshore nudist beaches."The ancient Greeks and the Romans were growing grapesand producing wine on Hvar 300 years before Christ,"said Andro Tomic, a local vintner, as he toured hisvineyards high on the windward face of the nearvertical mountain ridge that runs the length of Hvar.Mr. Tomic was one of only a handful of Croatians I metwho did not speak English. With Ms. Novak translating, Mr. Tomic said that Hvar'sabundance of sun and strong winds - which he called"ideal conditions for producing the highest qualitygrapes" - had kept the vineyards insect and diseasefree. Those same winds blow with such force off theAdriatic that workers tending the vines have to betethered by ropes to prevent them from being sweptfrom the mountainside and cast out to sea, Mr. Tomicsaid. Mythologized by islanders' ancestors, the winds areknown by name throughout Dalmatia, explained Ms.Novak, who swears her Hvar-born mother "flew" as achild, lifted off her feet by a gust and blown thelength of her family's backyard. "Bura, the good northwind, blows clouds and bad weather away," she said."It is said that the evil south wind, Jugo, awakensthe existing demons within you."From the Iron Age to the Iron Curtain and beyond, warhas been a fact of life in a country that sits at thebloody crossroads between Europe and Asia Minor. Tenyears after fighting ceased in the latest installment- the five-year civil war that left more than 10,000dead and hundreds of thousands homeless, caused morethan $20 billion in damages and left much of thecountry in ruin - the scars are not often visible, butthe effects remain profoundly felt. In the Dalmatian port city of Split, physical damagesuffered during the war has long since been repaired.But the city, with its terraced homes and itsLido-like riva of outdoor cafes, is awash inunemployment, drugs and crime that arose in theaftermath of the war. Good hotels are few. Many moreare in disrepair, having only recently been vacated bythousands of homeless war refugees who were giventemporary housing in the city. One such is run by askeleton staff and is embarked on a dubious campaignto attract tourists by hyping its casino and AmericanGo Go Club, featuring 36 dancers and a "Lesbian SexShow."Split is home to the enormous, fortresslike marblepalace where the Emperor Diocletian, known for hispersecution of Christians, retired in the early fourthcentury. The place still teems with life; residentslive in its apartments, and many restaurants and pubsallow visitors to dance, at least figuratively, on theemperor's grave. With a 1,700-year-old interactive theme park like thatin its midst, Split may well regain its standing as aleading tourist destination. Now, however, the cityserves primarily as a jumping-off place for touristscatching ferries to the offshore islands or headingsouth on the Adriatic Highway, the spectacular,150-mile coast road to Dubrovnik that offers a driveevery bit as eye-popping as California's Highway 1,only without the fog shrouding the view. Well-paved if serpentine and heavily trafficked, thehighway hugs the mountainous coastline, offeringvertigo-inducing views of the Adriatic at every turn.As it winds along the Makarska Riviera, the roadway iscarved from the limestone cliff face of a snowcappedmountain ridge. Small towns with their clusters oforange-tile-roofed homes nestle around coves farbelow. The spires of churches and cypress trees reachheavenward, toward us. South of Makarska, the highway crosses a wide, fertileflood plain, where farmers at roadside stands selloranges and honey and tall, slender bottles of oliveor lavender oils. In unsettling counterpoint to that peaceful scene, anugly black scrawl of graffiti is spray-painted on abillboard in Bosnia and Herzegovina (the highwaypasses through a 10-mile-wide strip in Dalmatia thatgives Croatia's neighbor access to the sea), with thewords "I Love ..." in English followed by a swastika.The graffiti markings are a chilling reminder that oldhatreds die hard in the Balkans. So are the dozens ofwhite ribbons of cloth tied to roadside bushes andfence posts we see when we take a long detour acrossthe mountains and into Krajina. Most guidebooks warn visitors away from Krajina, aformer Serbian enclave that was the scene of bloodysectarian violence during the war. The cloth strips,Ms. Novak said, were tied to mark the location of landmines planted during the war and yet to be removed bythe Croatian military. Around a bend, we see a large color photo poster of afugitive Croatian army general, Ante Gotovina, wantedby the Hague war crimes tribunal. The general, likesome Serbian counterparts in Bosnia and Herzegovina,Croatia's primary foe in the 1991-95 war, standsaccused of committing atrocities during that conflict.Most Croatians I spoke with say they are looking westin the hope of gaining admission to the EuropeanUnion, which they believe would bring security to thevolatile, war-torn Balkan region, reduce traderestrictions and enable the country's ancient wine andolive industries to flourish anew. The general, whosewhereabouts are unknown, is the focus of new debate.During my visit it was announced that Croatia'sinvitation to join the union was contingent in partupon his arrest or surrender, actions strongly opposedby the country's loud rightist minority. Beneath theposter's portrait of the warrior in uniform, hissupporters wrote the words "Hero, Not Criminal."War and its terrors are not readily conjured today inDubrovnik, the Croatian city hardest hit in the war.The long-prosperous and proudly neutral city statethat survived for centuries as a beacon ofinternational cooperation while mightier powersarrayed around it battled and bled, Dubrovnik is awalled seaside town of orange tiled roofs, marblestreets and lyrically placed turrets and towers thatmake it look like a sculpture, exquisite from anyangle.Like many of Dubrovnik's architectural treasures, theelegant Hotel Imperial, severely damaged and in flamesafter an artillery bombardment in 1991, has beenpainstakingly restored to its prewar glory. Painted abright Hapsburg yellow, with filigreed wrought-ironbalconies adorning its facade, the hotel reopened inspring under its new owners, the Hilton Hotel chain,one of many United States and European companies andprivate individuals who see gold in this beautiful buttragedy-stalked city and country.Just as foreign investors, who have been buyingseaside homes and condominiums in Dalmatia, arebetting on a lasting peace, some Croatians I talkedwith are wary. "Every generation has its war," said Ms. Novak's85-year-old grandfather, Bozidar Novak, who as ateenage partisan leader during World War II foughtFascists in the mountains of Hvar. His son, Srdjan,now a professor of physics at the University ofZagreb, nodded in agreement. "It isn't something youthink about," said Srdjan, a civil war veteran, "whenit's your home you're fighting for."Even Mr. Barisic, the self-described "free artist" ofHvar whom everyone calls Art, found himself joiningthe battle. "All my life I hated uniforms," he said."I am Art, not war. But when war happens, you live it.It is not something you fear or avoid."Now," however, Mr. Barisic said, "I am finished withwar. That's the last one. It's over. Ours is the lastgeneration to fight in a war.""I would be drunk with happiness if it was so," saidZdravko Bazdan, a University of Dubrovnik economicsprofessor who survived near daily bombardments duringthe siege of the city. "But this being the Balkans,"he said, "you never know." Along the Dalmatian Coast, Many Spots Worth a VisitThe Croatian National Tourist Office, (800) 829-4416,www.croatia.hr, is a useful source for information.Getting ThereThough there are no direct flights from the UnitedStates, connecting flights from the New York area toDubrovnik can be booked through most major Europeancities. Croatia Travel, (800) 662-7628,croatiatravel.com, arranges connections throughCroatia Airlines, www.croatiaairlines.hr, on a numberof airlines. In early July, a round-trip AmericanAirlines flight from New York to Dubrovnik in lateAugust (transferring in Manchester, England, toBritish Airways) was $1,065. While regular rail service to Croatia is availablefrom most Western European countries, the going can beslow and even slower within Croatia. Bus service ismore reliable, with daily service from Germany, Italyand Austria (www.eurolines.com) and an extensivenetwork of domestic routes (www.akz.hr).Car ferries operate daily during the summer (lessfrequently off season) between Italy and the Dalmatiancoast, crossing the Adriatic from Ancona to Hvar, in10 hours (berths from $40, cars $70, at $1.22 to theeuro) on Croatia's largest ferry company, Jadrolinija,www.jadrolinija.hr.Where to StayWith hotel rooms at a premium along the coast duringJuly and August, enterprising locals rent space intheir homes by posting signs in town or on line.Private accommodations can be found on the Web atsites like www.findcroatia.com and www.hvar.hr. Hotelprices here are for high season, and includebreakfast.HVAR Hotel Amfora, (385-21) 741-202;www.suncanihvar.hr. If the private beach is toocrowded, try the big pool (scuba and snorkelinglessons available) or enjoy the view of the small coveand winding riva from the balcony of the spaciousfourth-floor lobby. Double rooms start at about $100,at 6.3 kuna to the dollar. Hotel Palace, (385-21) 741-966; www.suncanihvar.hr.Facing Hvar's small but active harbor, the century-oldhotel was built on the site of a Venetian palace thatonce housed the local parliament. Doubles from $180. DUBROVNIK Hotel Excelsior, Frana Supila 12,;(385-20)353-353; www.hotel-excelsior.hr. A recently renovatedluxury hotel offering five-star accommodation andservice. The view from the Excelsior's terraces andbalconies as the sun sets behind Dubrovnik isunsurpassed. Doubles from $255. Pucic Palace, Od Puca, (385-20) 326-222;www.thepucicpalace.com. In the heart of Dubrovnik'swalled old town, the four-story stone Palace, once anobleman's opulent home, catered to visitingmerchants, aristocrats and dignitaries duringDubrovnik's days as an international trading center.Today's guests enjoy in-room DVD players and arttreasures on loan from the city's leading museums.Doubles from $584.Where to EatHVAR A cozy, candlelight-and-artwork-filled seafoodrestaurant located in a narrow, nameless alleyway afew stone steps from the town square, Macondo,(385-21) 742-850 (named after the town in "One HundredYears of Solitude"), offers fresh seafood andshellfish and wonderful local wines (the whiteBogdanusa - "God's given grape" - and the red PloskiPlovac, 14 percent alcohol, are superb). Dinner fortwo, with wine, about $90. MALI STON This tiny town was built with 14th-centurywalls and fortifications on the Peljesac Peninsula,some of which still stand. Mali Ston, in southernDalmatia, and its sister town, Ston, are renowned forthe fresh oysters and mussels harvested from shellfishfarms in the waters of the surrounding fjords.Kapetanova Kuca, (385-20) 754-264, a patio restaurant,with an array of pastas and succulent shellfish, is apopular stop for travelers on the Dalmatian highway.Oysters, an entree and wine cost about $80 for twoDUBROVNIK Lora Rudnjak, the owner of Ragusa 2, Prijeko30, (385-20) 321-203, a seafood restaurant andsidewalk cafe in the old town, took the name in turnfrom the original Ragusa (the name of Dubrovnik whenit was an independent city-state), which her familystarted in Dubrovnik in 1929. Featured along withseafood, pastas and risotto are large platters ofCroatian cheeses, thinly sliced Dalmatian smoked ham,octopus salad, oysters, mussels and clams. Dinner fortwo with wine, about $55.STEVE DOUGHERTY wrote about night life in Reykjavik,Iceland, for the Travel section in December.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8339/1/E-Carnival-Liberty-departs-Dubrovnik.html  Carnival Liberty departs Dubrovnik In this photo, provided by Carnival Crusie Lines, the new Carnival Liberty departs Dubrovnik, Croatia , Sunday, July 17, 2005, during its first cruise. The 952-foot-long Liberty is the first vessel for Miami-based Carnival Cruise Lines to sail a full slate of summer-fall European cruises. On Nov. 12, the ship is to begin a series of eight-day Caribbean cruises from Fort Lauderdale, Fla., and then return to Europe in May 2006. Oscar-winning actress Mira Sorvino is to officially name the vessel July 19 in Civitavecchia, Italy. (AP Photo/Carnival Cruise Lines, Andy Newman)The new Carnival Liberty is docked in Dubrovnik, Croatia July 17, 2005. Carnival Cruise Lines' 952-feet-long (290 m) Liberty can carry 3,000 guests and is the first Carnival vessel to sail a full slate of summer-fall European cruises. NO SALES NO ARCHIVES REUTERS/Andy Newman/Carnival Cruise Lines/Handout   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8338/1/E-Local-Hungarian-sailors-shift-tack-to-Croatia.html  Local sailors shift tack to CroatiaBy Patricia Fischer Monday July 18, 2005Sailing is becoming an increasingly popular leisure activity in Hungary. But as many yachting marinas on Lake Balaton see demand for berths falling as the domestic market reaches saturation, more and more local sailboat owners are taking their boats to Croatia, where two Hungarian-owned marinas are practically booked solid. Six years ago, BH Rt, the Balaton Shipping Company, launched a marina development program. Today, the chain consists of ten sailboat marinas with total capacity for over 2,000 boats. The Balatonszemes marina, with 134 available moorings, is the project most recently completed. “We can offer an annual lease for a lower price than those charged by privately owned marinas, and clients are entitled to use all marinas in the chain and related services at no extra charge,â€? explained Ferenc Lain, BH’s technical director. “If someone keeps their boat in a private marina and wishes to spend a few nights at a different mooring, they should calculate on paying between Ft 4,000 and Ft 10,000 [â,¬16â€"â,¬40] per day, depending on the location.â€? Lain added that prices this year have risen by 6%. “Our price rise, however, is in line with inflation,â€? the technical director said. “This means we are still far cheaper than other private marinas offering similar services.â€? Even so, demand for moorings on the Balaton has fallen in the last two to three years. According to Lain, there are approximately 5,000 boats currently registered at the lake. “In the past we registered between 20 and 30 new lessees each year, but recently it’s been more like two or three,â€? he said. He attributed the drop partly to the fact that Croatian marinas are currently in fashion, while suggesting that low Balaton water levels could be another reason. One shipping expert requesting anonymity agreed that the number of moorage renters on the Balaton is falling, but attributed this to a different cause. “Anyone wishing to buy a boat has already done so, so no significant increase can be expected in this segment,â€? the source said. “As a result of great demand for sailing as a leisure activity, grandiose marina development plans were drawn up between 1997 and 2000. However, due to enlargements and new developments in the last five or six years, the market is now saturated.â€? Berths to spare Operators of privately owned harbors around Lake Balaton do not take quite such a dim view of the situation. “We’ve been 90% booked for years,â€? said Dénes Bartos, harbor director of Kenese Marina-Port Rt, which opened in 1997. “Ninety-nine percent of those renting moorings are Hungarians. Each year, four or five new lessees appear.â€? Kenese Marina-Port also operates a four-star hotel adjacent to the marina, the Hotel Marina-Port. “In running both the hotel and the marina, many of the services are closely connected, but it would be true to say that the marina works profitably in its own right,â€? Bartos claimed. Bartos said he believes the lake could accommodate ten times as many sailboats, although he conceded that an increasing number of boat owners have chosen to keep their boats in Croatia in recent years. “Around 15 boat owners recently took their boats away from our marina to the Adriatic,â€? he admitted. The 206-berth Marina Fűzfő, which opened last April in Balatonfűzfő, is currently working at 35% capacity, but the marina manager is optimistic, given that last year the figure was just 14%. “In terms of quality, the Marina Fűzfő provides more than most other Balaton marinas,â€? asserted marina manager Márta Kenyeres, who also predicted that market demand will increase. “A few years ago there was a significant drop in the water level, but this has stopped, and the boat trade has picked up again; used boats rather than new, unfortunately, but it’s still a good sign,â€? Kenyeres said. The annual fee for a berth at Marina Fűzfő varies between Ft 250,000 and Ft 590,000 â€" a sum unchanged since last year. “Apart from the unchanged rates, we’re also offering discounts that include exchanging up to 25% of the annual fee for credit at the marina restaurant,â€? Kenyeres added. Improving services Although a large percentage of the marinas at Lake Balaton are privately owned or run by various clubs and associations, almost half of the available berths are owned by BH Rt. “BH Rt owns over 50% of the Balaton yachting marina market,â€? said Lain, adding that the company’s goal is to retain this market share, having managed to double the number of its moorings since 1994. “Recent developments have made it obvious that standards which seemed sufficient three years ago are no longer adequate,â€? he added, conceding that BH’s services need renewal. Although the average utilization level of BH’s marinas is around 92%, Lain admitted there are places where the situation is less than perfect. “Opened last June, we expect mostly Austrian and German renters at our Keszthely Marina,â€? Lain revealed. “For the moment, however, utilization of the 200-berth marina remains below 10% â€" despite all our marketing efforts.â€? Lain said that Austrian and German yacht clubs make frequent inquiries about the marina, but are looking to buy rather than rent. He added that they have even approached BH with the intention of buying the entire marina. The company, however, is reluctant to part with any member of its chain. According to Lain, BH’s marina branch produces what he described as a minimum acceptable profit of 9%â€"10%. “Taking only cash flow into account, our results are fairly good,â€? he said. “This, however, must be seen in the context of general costs and amortization. All things considered, our profit is not that high.â€? Hungarians at sea Over in Croatia, meanwhile, one Hungarian company, Dalmácia Holiday Kft, can boast two marinas. The Marina Tribunj, owned entirely by Dalmácia, has 250 berths, while joint venture Marina Kremik has 400 berths to offer sailors. “In Croatia the market is definitely governed by demand,â€? said Éva Kerekes, operator of Marina Tribunj and managing director of local joint venture Danuvius Marina d.o.o. “Both marinas are fully booked, with another 100 boats, both in Tribunj and Kremik, on the waiting list,â€? she added. At Marina Tribunj, 30%â€"35% of lessees are Hungarians, while this proportion is lower at Marina Kremik because charter companies book most of the available berths, explained Kerekes. The number of Hungarian lessees at Marina Tribunj has increased steadily since opening in 2003, which she attributed largely to the newly constructed motorway along the Dalmatian coast. “Now it takes barely six hours to reach Tribunj from Budapest,â€? Kerekes noted, while adding that even in the year of its opening, the marina was 90% full. According to Kerekes, there are as many as 15,000 berths available in Croatia’s marinas, which face steadily increasing demand. http://www.bbj.hu/?module=displaystory&story_id=249333&format=html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 18 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8344/1/E-Instyle-Magazine-Lists-Croatia-among-7-Top-World.html  'INSTYLE' MAGAZINE LISTS CROATIA AMONG SEVEN TOP TOURIST DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD ZAGREB, July 8(Hina) - The latest issue of American fashion magazine 'InStyle' listed Croatia among the seven top tourist destinations in the world ('Seven Great Global Getaways'), recommending a trip to Croatia for the country's natural beauties, clean sea and historic and cultural heritage, the head of the New York office of the Croatian National Tourist Board, Nena Komarica, said on Friday. 'InStyle' magazine, which has a circulation of 1.6 million, published an article headlined 'Dalmatian Coast, Croatia', giving reasons for travel to Croatia.The article says that apart from natural beauties, Croatia also has various styles of architecture. The author particularly recommended a visit to the southern Adriatic town of Dubrovnik, saying it was the cultural centre of the country, a trip to Trogir which, according to the author, reminds of Venice, and the Island of Hvar, which has already been listed as one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world.The magazine also published photos of Hvar, Tom Cruise and Steven Spielberg, for whom it said they visited Croatia by yacht.(Hina) http://www.hina.hr/nws-bin/genews.cgi?TOP=hot&NID=ehot/zanimljivosti/H7084576.4ye   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 09 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8345/1/E-Croatia-improves-tourism-infrastructure.html  Croatia improves tourism infrastructure Jul 07, 05 | 9:33 amMore than eight million foreign tourists visited Croatia last year and the Croatian government is expecting more than 10 million in the next years. Thanks to the country’s supportive tourism private sector in tourism for efforts in improving the industry’s infrastructure.HotelsPrivate and state investors spent 400 million euro last winter for hotel modernization older and construction. New small hotels, summerhouses, camping sites and restaurants infrastructure were established as a result. Previously state-owned hotels have also been revamped to meet international standards. Melia Sol and Thomas Cook are two examples. AirportsThe government announced it will bring financial support for the construction of six new airfields, a 800-meter runway of 800 meters private airplanes, air taxi and rescue flights to the mainland and for short commuter air traffic to existing international airports.AirlinesCroatia is celebrating the creation of two new air carriers. Sun Adria Airlines, based in the Croatian capital Zagreb, started the scheduled flights to several European destinations, including Germany, using two Fokker 100 in the fleet. Dubrovnik Airline, based in Dubrovnik and jointly founded by the Croatian Atlantic Shipping Company and Dubrovnik Airport Authority, is providing summer charters and scheduled using MD-83s. A third carrier, named European Coastal Airlines, is expected to be established within the next few weeks. HighwaysThe 380 kilometers long highway across mountain terrains between capital Zagreb and Split, the most important tourism center, finally opened June 29. Work is set to begin on Dubrovnik highway.Croatia is a relatively small (56,500 square kilometers and 4.49 million inhabitants) independent post communist country (former a part of Yugoslavia) in southeast Europe at Adriatic Sea. Tourism contribution to the country’s GDP is approximately 20 percent. Picturesque fishing villages, old antique and medieval towns with unique architecture are among its tourist attractions.By Jan BlazejZagreb, Croatia (eTurboNews)http://travelvideo.tv/news/more.php?id=5842_0_1_0_M   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 07 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8346/1/E-Life-in-Croatia-contest-for-Croatia-Traveller---deadline-July-15.html  'Life in Croatia'contest for Croatia Traveller  deadline July 15Dear CROWN readers,I'm writing because I thought you might be interested to know that www.croatiatraveller.com  is running a contest on Life in Croatia. I'm interested in any and all anecdotes, stories and tales from people who live or have recently lived in Croatia. The winner will receive a signed copy of Lonely Planet's Croatia 3 guidebook. I know that many of your readers live in or have close contact with someone who lives in Croatia. Here is the link: http://www.croatiatraveller.com/phpBB2/index.php .Regards,Jeanne Oliverwww.croatiatraveller.com   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 06 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8347/1/E-Zvonkos-Travel.html Zvonko's TravelMr. Zvonko Springer, citizen of Salzburg, Austria,born in the city of Osijek in Croatia, has recentlycontributed to my web site his very nice web pagesrelated to Croatia and its natural beauties. Here arethey:http://www.croatianhistory.net/etf/zvonko.html The presentation is accompanied with numerous verygood photos.I am convinced that these web pages may be of greatuse for all those who plan to spend their holidays inCroatia. Here is the outline of the content:Zvonko's TravelsApsyrtides - Where are these islands?Plitvice Lakes Region Lokrum Island Cavtat Township and its famous Mausoleum Mljet IslandSusak IslandOsijek - Essek - MursaIsland of Vis - Lissa - Issa 1999 Vukovar1999 Ilok and AljmasRegional History of VukovarBol on Island of BracBrijuni alias Brioni ArchipelagoHouse No. 10 in Bol and Skrip (Island of Brac)NIN by Zadar - Croatia's first Royal capitalThese web pages can be found at Mr. Springer'soriginal site in Salzburg at the addresshttp://www.cosy.sbg.ac.at/~zzspri/It contains also additional very interesting andimportant material for Croatia, in particular, the oneconcerning his personal experiences on the CroatianWay of the Cross immediately after the WW2 "ended" in1945.I take the opportunity to wish Mr Zvonko Springer avery happy 80th birthday. Truly amazing how one can becreative at that age. Also, I send my warmest regardsto his wife Mrs. Ljiljana.Mr. Zvonko, my big FALA (Thank You).Darko Zubrinic, Zagrebwww.croatianhistory.net PS. The result of my collaboration with Mr Springer isthat I can (upon his request) call him simply Zvonko.I am very proud of this.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 05 Jul 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8349/1/E-This-is-the-future-of-tourism-in-Croatia---Some-things-cannot-be-sold.html  This is the future of tourism in Croatia - Some things cannot be soldTourism: Tension between two visions By Eric Jansson Published: June 7 2005 09:38 | Last updated: June 7 2005 09:38 Croatia The boat drifted by one morning and lingered just offshore. On board, a Russian businessman - a magnate of some stature if not quite an oligarch - gazed coolly toward the land. His eyes settled on a bright yellow villa ornamented in Venetian gothic floral patterns, built in 1905 for a wealthy Italian family. Days later, there was a knock on the door. The Russian wanted the villa and would pay â,¬1m. “Noâ€? came the answer from Vjeko Martinko, the owner, who now enjoys telling this story. A few days passed, and again the Russian’s assistant arrived with an offer, higher into the millions. “Noâ€? again. Once more the man visited, raising his offer. Mr Martinko says he turned him down flatly, with some advice. “I’m sorry, but some things in life are priceless. Some things cannot be sold. This place is one such thing.â€? Mr Martinko’s view of his private property, Villa Astra in the seaside retreat of Lovren, which he runs as a boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant, bears little resemblance to the view Croatia’s rulers once took of assets along the country’s splendid coastline. Under Yugoslav Communist rule, prize coastal properties became gifts to Party loyalists - including those who once inhabited Villa Astra - while most of the shore became a playground for the proletariat. Crowds jammed into countless campsites and cement-block hotels. The state clung jealously to the land, as private owners like Mr Martinko now do, but it also cheapened it by opening it to all comers. In the new era, tension between these competing visions - one of total exclusivity and one of total accessibility - defines the struggle for the future of Croatian tourism. The stakes are high. Croatia attracted 9.8m foreign visitors last year. Tourism accounted for more than 20 per cent of gross domestic product (GDP), with receipts worth â,¬5.7m attributed directly to the industry, according to state statistics. The London-based World Travel and Tourism Council calls Croatia’s tourism market the fifth fastest-growing market in the world and predicts that tourism will account for 30 per cent of the country’s GDP by the year 2015. To stay on track, Croatia must continue its balancing act, accommodating both high-end and low-end holidaymakers. For years, the former have holed up in grand hotels around Dubrovnik, while the latter make do in campsites and rooms-for-rent. But critics add that the country must also plug an important hole in its market - the very-high end. With its vast shoreline and more than 1,000 islands, Croatia possess ample space to provide super-rich guests - stars of business, sport and Hollywood - the privacy they require. But the country’s existing high-end hotels, mostly massive resorts and self-catering villas, cannot always do the job. Such shortcomings drive the country’s wealthiest visitors on to the water, where they spend catered holidays on private holiday yachts, landing only occasionally in secluded harbours to stretch legs. Some of these, like the aspiring Russian buyer, later seek ways to buy their own exclusive properties. Spotting a business opportunity, a small but growing number of entrepreneurs aim to fill this gap. Among those tipped for success are Mr Martinko, with his Villa Astra and other properties near Lovren, and the Turkish proprietors of the Pucic Palace, the first luxury boutique hotel to open within Dubrovnik’s old walled city. Benefiting from exclusivity and privacy, both options offer delights found at none of Croatia’s luxury mega-hotels, including the newly refurbished 139-room Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, the Hilton Group’s first step into the market. At the Pucic Palace, guests sip cocktails on a exquisite stone porch overlooking Dubrovnik’s famous tiled rooftops. Rather than inducing claustrophobia, as the sometimes-crowded walled city can do, the location provides a soothing escape even in the heart of the city. Soundproofed walls block out the noise of the walking streets below. By contrast, Villa Astra, in the northern region of Istria, capitalises on a quiet location directly on the shore and exploits synergies with Mr Martinko’s other retreats, including a nearby hilltop farm. By a serene pool, guests eat sumptuous meals made of locally harvested ingredients - scampi, mussels, wild asparagus, strawberries and nettles. “This is the future of tourism in Croatia,â€? Mr Martinko says. He blasts both old-style mass tourism in Croatia and the tendency of today’s top-end guests to hide themselves away on hired yachts. Such tourism is “an industry with no human element.â€? “There is so much capital floating around in the world, targeting Croatia. We must focus it on what is sustainable.â€? Some of the world’s most exclusive boutique hoteliers aim to enter the market, among them Singapore-based Amanresorts International, whose only other effort in Europe to date operates in Courchevel, France. With new entrants like these, Croatia’s image could soon change for the better.http://www.znanost.org/~hmestric/ft/ft6.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 25 Jun 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8351/1/E-Finding-energy-and-balance-in-Croatia.html Finding energy and balance in CroatiaJune 23, 2005 - Volume XIII, Issue 25 After a hot Hungarian summer everyone dreads returning to an intensive work schedule following their vacation, but this can be eased by holidaying in Croatia's excellent wellness centers. ALLOWING yourself a few days in a nice four or five star hotel on the Croatian coast with a wellness program and halfboard accommodation will help you raise your energy, find balance and prepare yourself for the struggle awaiting you back in the office. From September, prominent tourist centers with wellness facilities such as Pula, Porec, Opatija, Dubrovnik, Losinj or Umag become calm and peaceful, while the mildly Mediterranean climate still allows for daily swimming and sunbathing. All of these towns are acknowledged for their high-quality service in hotels and restaurants, which offer a wide variety of dishes and menus that fit beautifully with wellness programs and are designed to be of maximum benefit. Accessible by car (with the exception of Dubrovnik, which can be easier reached from Budapest by plane), getting to Opatija, Pula, Porec, Umag or Losinj will not take you more than six-eight hours on Croatia's brand new roads and motorways.Depending upon your preference, one can choose beauty and/or bodyfit programs, relaxation and meditation programs or mixed solutions created by experts. In addition, some hotels offer special wellness programs for men only, while several offer special arrangements for couples. The duration of programs vary from two to seven days, and often offer economy prices for a two-person combined program. Wellness programs in Croatian hotels often include thalasotherapy treatments since seawater is a proven cure for skin and dermatology problems, while mud and seaweed is used for cosmetic treatments on both face and body. Aromatherapy treatments using mediterranean oils from lavender, rosemary, sage or similar are ideal for the Croatian climate. These treatments are suggested if one suffers from mood changes or has a particularly stressful job. Should you be interested in Eastern techniques, chose wellness offering shiatsu massage or reflexotherapy treatments. Some hotels offer reiki and ayurved massages, while devotees of exotic treatments can enjoy chinese tui na massage, particularly recommended if you have circulation problems. In addition to wellness programs and comfortable accommodation in well-furnished rooms, hotels will provide their guest with special menus, from standard continental to vegetarian and even macrobiotic cuisine. Some hotels are able to provide ayurved meals and light dishes prepared in consultation with the client. _For more information visit www.adriatica.net and book your wellness program easily and quickly online! http://www.budapestsun.com/full_story.asp?ArticleId=%7bEDAA82F7D5AC4609B405A5E0C82D2692%7d&From=Style  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 23 Jun 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8348/1/E-Unique-Concepts-in-Holiday-Living---Lovranske-Vile.html  Unique Concepts in Holiday Living - Lovranske Vile   www.lovranske-vile.com  Company profileThe company, Lovranske Vile Ltd., was established in 1996 with the main objective of developing 'Unique Concepts in Holiday Living', which address the personal needs of each and every guest. It is intended to blend the Croatian natural and human heritage with a warm personal approach, friendly environment and high comfort levels, while enhancing creativity and personal health. All this, to achieve "life balance" during the holiday.To meet this challenge the company has selected a historical health resort: the town of Lovran. The selection was based on the following main considerations:• Lovran’s prime location: situated in the Kvarner Bay, Opatija Riviera, where Mediterranean and central Europe meet, only few hours drive from Vienna, Trieste, Venice, Ljubljana, Munich. Additionally, it is not far away from the famous Croatian national parks. • Beautiful architecture: a romantic mixture of Central European and Mediterranean styles. • Climate: Lovran is part of Opatija Riviera with its mild Mediterranean climate.• Lovran's tourism tradition: a seaside medieval town with numerous villas and beautiful land, town and seascapes. In the first half of the century Lovran was a famous tourist health resort, developed at the turn of the century (1890-1910) by the Vienna Medical Society.Taking the above into consideration, Lovranske Vile Ltd. has outlined a vision for the Lovran district:As part of the prestigious Opatija Riviera, Lovran is an intimate, luxurious enclave of villas and gardens with a variety of attractive tourist events and services offered on the market all the year round at a high quality level. Lovran will become a synonym for sophisticated leisure. It will primarily be intended for the customers of various backgrounds and interests.. Apart from offering the possibilities of long vacations or short breaks throughout the year, Lovran will be also considered as a “second home” destination.The business philosophy of Lovranske Vile Ltd. supports and nicely fits into the concept of Lovran, -- this fine, peaceful and friendly oasis on the Opatija Riviera -- where mountains, sea, islands, beautiful towns and villages fit together.Up to this point, the company has been engaged in the following activities:1) Purchased the residences in villas: Adele, San Giovanni and Astra, renovated them up to their former standard/architecture, re-furnished the interior of the villas to the highest standard and decorated them in the classic style and rented them to visitors (tourists) who want to experience an extraordinary environment. The residences are offered to international business and diplomatic communities, and similar organizations and individuals who would think of the residences as their "second home", either for long stays or short breaks throughout the year. 2) Reconstructed an old country house ORAJ on the mountain overlooking Lovran and improved the surrounding agricultural land. The landscape reconstruction included the surrounding terraced land with its dry stonewalls. Additionally, a garden with a Mediterranean atmosphere (flowers, trees, vegetables) has been developed based upon the ecological principles of sustainable development. Finally, the country house has been reconstructed to:• provide a peaceful place (in traditional Mediterranean rural environment) for seminars and programs, such as anti-stress, spiritual, cultural, management and recreational,• give the guests an opportunity to do some specific gardening work, and use the vegetables and fruit from the garden for their own cooking,• rest/study in tranquil environment, walk or hike the Mt. UÄ?ka.3) Enhanced our accommodation with number of tailor-made programs, to include:• excursions and one or more day trips to coastal areas and the neighboring islands, to the hinterland of Istria, and excursions to more distant beautiful natural and cultural places in Croatia, Slovenia and Italy,• special programs for health care, spiritual, and personal development all as part of an individual life-long learning process, • active programs such as walking, hiking, sailing, fishing, rafting and climbing,4) Offered consultation services for the implementation of an Integrated Local Development Program, and providing expertise on sustainable tourism and development, as well as marketing and promotion.5) Offered assistance to individuals worldwide who are interested in establishing their home or second home in the area.All activities are in process. Four, five-star residences in Villa Adele, San Giovanni and Farmhouse “Oraj” renovated to the highest standard, are in the operational stage.Herewith, Lovranske Vile Ltd. invites experts, facilitators, trainers, individuals and friends who are interested to take part in the implementation of the Unique Concept in Holiday Living, Integrated Local Development Plan (ILD) and Sustainable Tourism Development to contact us.Vjeko Martinko Contact:Lovranske vile d.o.o.Poljanska c. 27HR-51414 IciciT/F: +011-385 51 704 276/183www.lovranske-vile.com vjeko@lovranske-vile.com member of:Schlosshotels und Herrenhäuserwww.schlosshotels.co.at Historic Hotels of Europewww.historichotelsofeurope.com   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 22 Jun 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8350/1/E-Lovranske-Vile-in-Financial-Times---Vjeko-Martinko.html  Lovranske Vile in Financial Times - Vjeko MartinkoVjekoslav MartinkoLovranske vile d.o.o.Tourism: Tension between two visionsBy Eric JanssonFinancial Times, FT.comPublished: June 7 2005The boat drifted by one morning and lingered just offshore. On board, a Russian businessman - a magnate of some stature if not quite an oligarch - gazed coolly toward the land. His eyes settled on a bright yellow villa ornamented in Venetian gothic floral patterns, built in 1905 for a wealthy Italian family.Days later, there was a knock on the door. The Russian wanted the villa and would pay ?1m. "No" came the answer from Vjeko Martinko, the owner, who now enjoys telling this story.A few days passed, and again the Russian's assistant arrived with an offer, higher into the millions. "No" again.Once more the man visited, raising his offer. Mr Martinko says he turned him down flatly, with some advice. "I'm sorry, but some things in life are priceless. Some things cannot be sold. This place is one such thing."Mr Martinko's view of his private property, Villa Astra in the seaside retreat of Lovren, which he runs as a boutique hotel and gourmet restaurant, bears little resemblance to the view Croatia's rulers once took of assets along the country's splendid coastline.Under Yugoslav Communist rule, prize coastal properties became gifts to Party loyalists - including those who once inhabited Villa Astra - while most of the shore became a playground for the proletariat. Crowds jammed into countless campsites and cement-block hotels. The state clung jealously to the land, as private owners like Mr Martinko now do, but it also cheapened it by opening it to all comers.In the new era, tension between these competing visions - one of total exclusivity and one of total accessibility - defines the struggle for the future of Croatian tourism.The stakes are high. Croatia attracted 9.8m foreign visitors last year. Tourism accounted for more than 20 per cent of gross domestic product (GDP), with receipts worth ?5.7m attributed directly to the industry, according to state statistics.The London-based World Travel and Tourism Council calls Croatia's tourism market the fifth fastest-growing market in the world and predicts that tourism will account for 30 per cent of the country's GDP by the year 2015.To stay on track, Croatia must continue its balancing act, accommodating both high-end and low-end holidaymakers. For years, the former have holed up in grand hotels around Dubrovnik, while the latter make do in campsites and rooms-for-rent.But critics add that the country must also plug an important hole in its market - the very-high end.With its vast shoreline and more than 1,000 islands, Croatia possess ample space to provide super-rich guests - stars of business, sport and Hollywood - the privacy they require. But the country's existing high-end hotels, mostly massive resorts and self-catering villas, cannot always do the job.Such shortcomings drive the country's wealthiest visitors on to the water, where they spend catered holidays on private holiday yachts, landing only occasionally in secluded harbours to stretch legs. Some of these, like the aspiring Russian buyer, later seek ways to buy their own exclusive properties.Spotting a business opportunity, a small but growing number of entrepreneurs aim fill this gap.Among those tipped for success are Mr Martinko, with his Villa Astra and other properties near Lovren, and the Turkish proprietors of the Pucic Palace, the first luxury boutique hotel to open within Dubrovnik's old walled city.Benefiting from exclusivity and privacy, both options offer delights found at none of Croatia's luxury mega-hotels, including the newly refurbished 139-room Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, the Hilton Group's first step into the market.At the Pucic Palace, guests sip cocktails on a exquisite stone porch overlooking Dubrovnik's famous tiled rooftops. Rather than inducing claustrophobia, as the sometimes-crowded walled city can do, the location provides a soothing escape even in the heart of the city. Soundproofed walls block out the noise of the walking streets below.By contrast, Villa Astra, in the northern region of Istria, capitalises on a quiet location directly on the shore and exploits synergies with Mr Martinko 's other retreats, including a nearby hilltop farm. By a serene pool, guests eat sumptuous meals made of locally harvested ingredients - scampi, mussels, wild asparagus, strawberries and nettles."This is the future of tourism in Croatia," Mr Martinko says.He blasts both old-style mass tourism in Croatia and the tendency of today's top-end guests to hide themselves away on hired yachts. Such tourism is "an industry with no human element.""There is so much capital floating around in the world, targeting Croatia. We must focus it on what is sustainable."Some of the world's most exclusive boutique hoteliers aim to enter the market, among them Singapore-based Amanresorts International, whose only other effort in Europe to date operates in Courchevel, France.With new entrants like these, Croatia's image could soon change for the better.Lovranske vile d.o.o.Poljanska c. 27HR-51414 IciciT/F: +385 51 704 276/183www.lovranske-vile.com vjeko@lovranske-vile.com member of:Schlosshotels und Herrenhäuserwww.schlosshotels.co.at Historic Hotels of Europewww.historichotelsofeurope.com   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 21 Jun 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8352/1/E-Luxurious-New-Hilton-Imperial-Dubrovnik-First-Hilton-in-Croatia.html  Luxurious New Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik Becomes First Hilton Hotel in CroatiaBusiness Wire June 6, 2005 Monday 1:01 PM GMT Business Editors; Travel & Hospitality Writers DUBROVNIK, Croatia June 6, 2005 Hilton(R) Hotels, Suites and Resorts is proud to announce the opening of the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, the first Hilton in Croatia, which began welcoming guests on May 1. The Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik is the outcome of a 25 million Euro investment made by the shipping company Atlantska Plovidba, Hilton International and the Austrian construction company Bau Holding Strabag. The hotel is strategically positioned on the edge of the historic city walls that enclose the old city, set in a beautiful garden and boasting a great sea view.The Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik is a conversion of two former hotels that originally opened in 1897, combining 19th century architecture with a modern design to provide the ultimate in comfort and the very latest technology. The hotel retained its original twin-palazzo structure, offering 147 luxurious guest rooms, including eight apartments and a Presidential Suite. Guests staying in the executive rooms have access to the Executive Lounge, an exclusive environment with a panoramic terrace overlooking the Adriatic Sea and famous city walls. The Executive Lounge also offers satellite TV, newspapers from around the globe, and a large range of snacks and beverages that will be provided free of charge all day.The hotel's event and conference facilities offer the ultimate in meetings technology, in a complex spanning two floors and comprising six meeting rooms, a 244-square-meter ballroom for up to 250 guests, and a foyer perfect for exhibits and presentations.The hotel's contemporary restaurant Porat delights the senses with an added touch of local color, offering a broad range of international cuisine and Dalmatian specialties prepared using freshly-caught seafood. Porat also offers a separate room for an intimate dining experience for up to 12 people, and a large outside terrace with beautiful fresco seating surrounded by an immaculate garden.The lobby bar is the perfect bistro for light snacks and drinks, and will be transformed in the evening into a piano bar, serving exquisite beverages with a soft backdrop of live music. For the active guest, the LivingWell Health Club features the latest fitness facilities, an indoor swimming pool, sauna and a Turkish bath.Within easy reach of the area's tourist attractions, the hotel is an ideal holiday location, and will provide the high level of service and quality guests expect when visiting a Hilton hotel.About Hilton International-- Hilton International (HI), an operating division of the UK based Hilton Group plc, owns the rights to the Hilton brand name throughout the world, with the exception of the USA. HI operates over 400 hotels, including 250 branded Hilton (46 of which are under the Hilton Worldwide Resorts(R) brand) and over 140 properties under the mid-market Scandic brand. HI also operates 15 luxury Conrad hotels under a joint venture agreement with Hilton Hotels Corporation (HHC). Hilton International Grand Vacations Club (HIGVC) operates 176 time ownership properties in Egypt and Scotland. Hilton International employs over 70,000 staff in over 70 countries. A global marketing alliance between Hilton International and the North America-based Hilton Hotels Corporation extends the number of hotels operated by both companies worldwide to over 2,400 -- over 500 of which are branded Hilton. Committed to doing business in a responsible way, Hilton International's aim is to bring a positive benefit to the societies in which it operates through high quality services, economic growth, environmental protection, community involvement and employment.Note to photo editor:-- For more information on Hilton Group and latest news, please visit our corporate website, at: www.hiltongroup.com -- High resolution Hilton images are available for the media to download free of charge from www.vismedia-online.com CONTACT: Hilton Media Relations Jeanne Datz Rice/Andrew Keown, 310-205-4545 jeanne_datz_rice@hilton.com/andrew_keown@hilton.com http://www.hiltonworldwide.com or Guliz Ozbek, +90 212 315 60 15 (Turkey & Eastern Europe) guliz.ozbek@hilton.com http://www.businesswire.com June 6, 2005 Copyright © 2005 LexisNexis, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. Copyright© 1999- Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. Reed Business ® is a trademark of Reed Elsevier Inc. The Reed Business logo and HOTELS are registered trademarks of Reed Elsevier Properties Inc. Used under license. Privacy Policy | Contact the webmaster http://www6.lexisnexis.com/publisher/EndUser?Action=UserDisplayFullDocument&orgId=616&topicId=12552&docId=l:286037581&start=19     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 06 Jun 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8354/1/E.html   Gilmour said. "The people of Croatia are great."Gilmour overhauls Baird for tour lead in CroatiaThe Australian’s fifth ACI H1 Match Race Cup is also his seventh career Tour victory Saturday 28 May 2005Info Swedish Match TourPeter Gilmour (AUS), of Pizza-La Sailing Team, today became the new leader of the Swedish Match Tour leaderboard and the career victories list when he won the ACI H1 Match Race Cup.Gilmour and crew Rod Dawson, Mike Mottl, Kazuhiko Sofuku and Yasuhiro Yaji defeated Philippe Presti (FRA) 3-2 in a tightly fought series. Presti’s crew included Thierry Fouchier, Fred Guilmin, Pascal Rambeau and Mathieu Renault.Gilmour, with 112 points, overtook Ed Baird (USA), of Team Alinghi, for the lead of the 2004-’05 season. And Gilmour’s seven career victories are tops on that list.Bertrand Pacé (FRA), of BMW Oracle Racing, placed third, while Baird finished fourth. Pacé beat Baird 2-0 in the Petit Final."We’ve just been looking to improve on last year’s performance,â€? said Gilmour, 45 years old. "We weren’t very happy with how we sailed the second half of last year. Now we’ve got two wins and a second in the last three events.â€?Those finishes have put Gilmour in position to become the first repeat champion of the Swedish Match Tour. He leads Baird by 10 points (after trailing by 23 points at the beginning of May) with one event to sail, the Swedish Match Cup (July 4-10)."Him finishing fourth and us first is a surprise,â€? said Gilmour. "We just hoped to finish one place ahead of him.â€?Gilmour’s victory was his fifth championship at the ACI Cup, which is also tops on that list. "That’s a real pleasure,â€? Gilmour said. "The people of Croatia are great.â€?In the final Gilmour opened a 2-0 lead. He won the first match when Presti was penalized twice at the leeward mark, and the second when he completed a 270-degree penalty turn on the finish line.Presti, who upped his level of aggression in the semifinals and final, rallied to make it 2-2. He won the third flight when Gilmour received a pre-start penalty and the fourth when he completed a penalty turn on the finish line.That set up a winner-take-all final match, but it was anticlimactic compared to the first four flights, which were marked by close racing and many leebow tacks.With the west/southwesterly seabreeze blowing around 8 knots, down from its high of 10 knots earlier in the day, Gilmour started the final match to the left and Presti to the right."The right had been favored all day,â€? said Presti, 39 years old. "We thought it was still favored in the last race. We saw a big puff on the left, but thought the wind would drop and swing right.â€?Presti, by his own admission, guessed wrong. When Presti tacked to starboard and towards the left side, Gilmour was crossing in a 10-knot puff about three boatlengths ahead. He led by 30 seconds at the windward mark, and was never threatened the rest of the way."I guess it was bad eyes,â€? said Presti, laughing off the loss."Philippe started very well today,â€? said Gilmour. "He pushed us to the right all the time. By hook or by crook we were going to win the left in the last match, and we did.â€?Gilmour advanced to the final by beating Baird 3-1 in one semifinal match. Presti got there by beating Pacé, also 3-1. Ironically, Gilmour and Presti just barely advanced to the semifinals. They had to win their final races in the round robin and count on others losing to advance.Yesterday Presti said he enjoyed racing Pacé because of his aggressive nature. But it was Presti who turned up the aggression in the semifinal, taking the fight to Pacé and not backing down from his countryman."In the round robin we were happy to be here, happy to race,â€? said Presti. "But when we got to the semifinal we knew we had to pick it up and we did.â€?Gilmour said he was surprised to beat Baird by such a lopsided score. "Ed is the quintessential smooth and consistent sailor. You have to be all that and more to beat him,â€? said Gilmour, who beat Baird in five of their six matches this week.• Swedish Match Tour Standings (After 7 of 8 stages)1. Peter Gilmour (AUS) 112 points 2. Ed Baird (USA) 102 points 3. Russell Coutts (NZL) 70 points 4. Jes Gram-Hansen (DEN) 45 points 5. Philippe Presti (FRA) 44 points 6. Staffan Lindberg (FIN) 38 points 7. James Spithill (AUS) 35 points 8. Bertrand Pacé (FRA) 34 points• ACI H1 Match Race Cup Final(3) Peter Gilmour (AUS) d. (4) Philippe Presti (FRA), 3-2ACI H1 Match Race Cup Petit Final (1) Bertrand Pacé (FRA) vs. (2) Ed Baird (USA), 2-0• ACI H1 Match Race Cup Semifinals(3) Peter Gilmour (AUS) d. (2) Ed Baird (USA), 3-1 (4) Philippe Presti (FRA) d. (1) Bertrand Pacé (FRA), 3-1• ACI H1 Match Race Cup Final Standings • Prize Purse: $40,000Skipper (Country) Team, Record, Prize Money1. Peter Gilmour (AUS) Pizza-La Sailing Team, 18-11, $15,000 Crew: Rod Dawson, Mike Mottl, Kazuhiko Sofuku, Yasuhiro Yaji2. Philippe Presti (FRA) le Défi, 17-12, $8,000 Crew: Thierry Fouchier, Fred Guilmin, Pascal Rambeau, Mathieu Renault3. Bertrand Pacé (FRA) BMW Oracle Racing, 20-6, $6,000 Crew: Eric Doyle, Zach Hurst, Dirk de Ridder, Brad Webb4. Ed Baird (USA) Team Alinghi, 15-11, $4,000 Crew: Jordi Calafat, Lorenzo Mazza, Dean Phipps, Piet Van Nieuwenhuyzen5. Mathieu Richard (FRA), 11-9, $2,400 Crew: Greg Evrard, Olivier Herledant, Frederic Rivet, Yannick Simon6. Staffan Lindberg (FIN), 11-9, $2,000 Crew: Nils Bjerkas, Johan Karlsson, Carl-Johan Uckelstam, Daniel Wallberg7. Kelvin Harrap (NZL) Emirates Team New Zealand, 10-10, $1,600 Crew: Rod Davis, Andrew McLean, Richard Meacham, Rod Salthouse8. Björn Hansen (SWE), 8-12, $1,000 Crew: Mathias Brendin, Fredrik Ekman, Anders Jonsson, Johan Tempelman9. Flavio Favini (ITA) Mascalzone Latino - Capitalia Team, 6-14 Crew: Marco Constant, Flavio Grassi, Antar Vigna, Jon Ziskind10. Dario Kliba (CRO), 5-15 Crew: Kosti? Hrvoje, Zvonko Jela?i?, Prlenda Nikola, Celi? Slaven11. Ian Ainslie (RSA) Team Shosholoza, 4-16 Crew: Charles Nankin, David Rae, Mark Sadler, Ante Vanjakhttp://www.seasailsurf.com/seasailsurf/actu/article.php3?id_article=3643     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 28 May 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8353/1/E-Why-does-Croatia-make-so-many-appearances-throughout-history.html   Why does Croatia make so many appearances throughout history?Sail Croatia and its islands, made of "God's tears, stars and breath", wrote George Bernard Shaw. God's tears, stars and breathMay 26, 2005 - Volume XIII, Issue 21 It was in the Croatian sea that the Argonauts searched for the Golden Fleece and on the island of Mljet that Calipso imprisoned Ulysses for seven years. Gustav Mahler reorchestrated several movements of his 4th Symphony in Opatija, and James Joyce wrote while teaching English in Pula. Why does Croatia make so many appearances throughout history? Perhaps Shaw was right. Croatia won the Lonely Planet award for the world's top destination for 2005, and, with 1,186 islands, is one of the best sailing destinations in the Mediterranean. Clean sea, unspoiled nature and a rugged coastline, well equipped marinas, mild climate and fair winds are some of the reasons why Croatia is a favorite for boaters. The Croatian coastline, from north to south, consists of Istria, Kvarner and Dalmatia. Here is a brief survey of some of the most well-known sailing destinations. The Brijuni archipelago of 14 islands off the western coast of Istria holds unparalleled beauty and was the preferred destination of rulers. It was the choice of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy and the location for Tito's summer residence. In 1984 Brijuni became a national park and boasts a safari park and a golf course. With so many islands to choose from, sailing itineraries are plentiful and offer something new from one year to the next. If you hanker for the historical, consider departing Opatija for the island of Cres, visit the ancient town of Lubenice, standing atop a 378 meter high cliff, and the Croatian St. Tropez, Le Figaro. From Cres continue on to Mali Losinj and visit the Ilovik Island, called "The Island of Flowers". Try the squid there - the taste is unlike anywhere else on the Adriatic. A completely different Kvarnerian itinerary could be: Porer - Unije - Susak. Porer is a tiny island occupied only by a lighthouse (available for summer rental). Just 70 meters wide and without vegetation, Porer appears like a white pearl floating on the blue sea surface. Unije, alternately, will amaze you with high vertical cliffs, while Susak is a sandy island of scrub, no higher then half a meter, famous for unique traditional ladies costumes: hectic-colored skirts are above the knees - something rare in conservative Croatia. The 140 islands of Kornati national park in Northern Dalmatia are one of the most celebrated sailing destinations in the Adriatiac. The park offers 69 species of butterflies alone. Sailing routes here are so numerous that recommending any would be unfair to the others, but some locations stand out: Taljuric island has a surprising oval shape and is so low that it is often submerged by the sea; Anica Bay, on the island of Lavernaka, is considered to be the most beautiful bay in Kornati; while Stiniva boasts an impressive cave. From Split, the capital of Central Dalmatia, setting your course for Lastovo, making your first stop on the island of Solta, famous for its olives. Continue on to Brac, where the stone used for building the White House was quarried, then turn toward Hvar, the island of lavender and wine. Palmizana should be your next stop: it offers an excellent marina and restaurant. Set sail then for the island of Korcula, visit the island of Proizd for a swim, visit Vela Luka, then sail on to Lastovo. Southern Dalmatia has two world-famous attractions: the city of Dubrovnik and Mljet National Park. Both are tame in comparison to the sailing route we recommend for the adventurous. The starting point is Dubrovnik and the final destination is the Ostra (translated as "sharp") Horn. Vertical cliffs over 100 meters in height dominate the landscape of this itinerary punctuated by beautiful Croatian resorts like Srebreno (translated as "The Silver"), Mlini and Cavtat, along the Azurna Obala.Your itinerary includes the deserted islands of Mrkan and Bobara, the seagall kingdom, ideal for sports fishing. Strma is found beyond the Cavtat shore, where, on the cliffs tops, you can try horseback riding. _ Sail through Croatia with the help of www.adriatica.net, the online travel agency. http://www.budapestsun.com/full_story.asp?ArticleId=%7BAC983DA0D6C94502A0B860658EC9E3B8%7D&From=Style   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 26 May 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8359/1/E-Americans-are-on-the-road-again---to-Croatia.html  Americans are on the road again The dollar has held up better against some national currencies outside the euro-zone, making a beach vacation in, sayCroatia, more reasonable than one just across the Adriatic in ItalySummer travel: Fares, room rates spikeFor the first time since 9/11, the peak travel season looks to be hitting on all cylinders.May 4, 2005: 9:48 AM EDT By Les Christie, CNN/Money staff writerNEW YORK (CNN/Money) - The message from the travel industry this spring: Americans are on the road again. "Despite terrorist threats, fuel price rises, and a weak dollar," says Amy Ziff, roving editor for Travelocity, "Americans feel free to travel again, especially to Europe, where they've been going in increasing numbers." According to the European Travel Commission, a record 14 million Americans will visit Europe this year, surpassing the 13.5 million who ventured there in 2000.This is good news for the travel industry. For travelers, though, heightened demand has pushed up prices across the board. An annual AAA survey of domestic travel costs reports that per diem prices are up 5 percent over last year. The story is even worse overseas. The dollar has lost 6 percent of its value against the euro, and that doesn't account for other price increases. So far, high fuel prices have had little impact on fares, but just last week American Airlines announced it would add fuel surcharges of $5 a ticket for domestic flights, more for international ones. Other airlines will likely follow suit. Hotels prices are up already. John Walsh, spokesman for Marriott International, reports that average daily rates (ADRs) at Marriott (domestic and international) are up an average of 7 percent this year. The AAA reports that domestic lodging for a family of four costs nearly 4 percent more this year and now average $129 a night. Lower room inventories also means chains offer fewer bookings to such Internet bidding sites as Priceline.com. "When the economy was not doing well you could find great rates there," says Walsh. "Now, it's hard to find bargains." Heavy demand for airline seats and hotel rooms has many travel professionals advising vacationers to book well in advance. Procrastinators may have to pay more or settle for an inconvenient flight. In the past, prices tended to drop as the departure dates grew near as airlines scrambled to fill empty seats. This year, prices are rising as travelers compete for scarce berths. Sean Comey, spokesman for AAA of Northern California, Nevada, and Utah, reports that the best air deals are available 90 to 120 days in advance. He himself was stung by not booking early; it cost him an extra $300 each for two cruise tickets because he waited too long. Ultimately, vacationers may have a tough time finding big savings this year, but that will not necessarily discourage the search. "Some travelers are such bargain hunters," says Ziff, "that if the price is $25 different between Paris and Rome, they change their destination." Savings strategiesPay in dollars. The dollar's weakness has proved a boon for companies offering European tours and cruises. Americans can pay in dollars for a complete package. Other than shopping, they incur few other expenses -- or surprises. Explore alternatives to the euro-zone. The dollar has held up better against some national currencies outside the euro-zone, making a beach vacation in, say Croatia, more reasonable than one just across the Adriatic in Italy. U.S. neighbors Mexico and Canada are comparative bargains. Stay at business hotels. Comey says some destination cities in the United States are more affordable than many realize, compared with many of the country's main tourist centers such as Las Vegas and Orlando. San Francisco, for example, has many excellent hotels that charge less than $150 a night. In cities that cater to business travelers, downtown hotels lure leisure travelers with generous weekend rates. Travel to off-season destinations. You can save on summer travel by staying at winter resorts. "Many ski reports have great summer programs," says Ziff, "with terrific facilities and wilderness at your door, but much less expensive than in ski season." Use the Internet to plan and book. Travel planning online continues to grow in popularity; nearly 45 million Americans booked at least one service on the Internet last year, according to the Travel Industry Association (TIA). Ziff says Travelocity, like other online vendors, offers what she calls "dynamic packages." These take advantage of excess inventory at hotels or airlines, who will sometimes offer rooms or airplane seats in bulk to Travelocity at a much lower prices than those they advertise to the public. Trends for 2005Educational excursions. Many Americans are opting for vacations that incorporate learning. Literary tours, anthropological travel -- even cooking lessons -- are all gaining popularity. Short trips. A three-day weekend can refresh and renew almost as well as a week off. These are perfect for the hard-charging executives who just can't tear themselves away from their responsibilities. Getting the family together. Family reunions account for an increasing share of travel. The TIA reports that 34 percent of Americans have traveled to a family reunion in the past three years. But increasingly, families are not just getting together, they're traveling together. Multigenerational travel takes several forms: Three generations may tour or cruise together, rent out a house as a family, or settle in en masse at a resort. Such trips enable everyone to "vacation at our own speed, but come together for meals," says Ziff. http://money.cnn.com/2005/05/02/pf/travel_summer_trends_2005/   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 08 May 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8358/1/E-Croatia-and-Jewels-of-the-Adriatic-at-the-Waldwick-Public-Library.html  "Croatia and Jewels of the Adriatic" at the Waldwick Public LibraryBERGEN COUNTY BRIEFS Friday, May 6, 2005 LITTLE FERRY - The borough held its annual "Mayor for a Day" program Tuesday, with 16 eighth-graders from Memorial School conducting town business and voting on agenda resolutions under the guidance of council members.Students took the oath of office for a variety of roles, including mayor, council members, and borough administrator.Students in the program were Carly Scibetta, Lina Martinez, Erik Garcia, George Mikhail, Freddy Vasquez, Eunhwa Mouada, Christine Gaul, Barbara Martinez, Samantha Rivas, Jessica Ortiz, Kathryn Stout, Kubra Kalkan, Priscilla Periut, Patrick Ryan, Samia Souza and Kavan Panchal.- John A. GavinWALDWICK - Travel consultants Jim and Alix Morriss will present "Croatia and Jewels of the Adriatic" at the Waldwick Public Library on June 2 at 7 p.m.The slide lecture is an armchair traveler's tour of Croatia's dramatic coastline along the Adriatic Sea.Among the highlights of the program are Kotor, the old maritime center of Montenegro; the picturesque city of Dubrovnik, notable for its medieval double walls and fortifications; and the lush Ionian island of Corfu, written about by Homer in "The Odyssey."The program is free and open to the public. Registration is recommended. For more information, call (201) 652-5104.- Allison Prieshttp://www.northjersey.com/page.php?qstr=eXJpcnk3ZjczN2Y3dnFlZUVFeXk1MCZmZ2JlbDdmN3ZxZWVFRXl5NjY5MDE2MSZ5cmlyeTdmNzE3Zjd2cWVlRUV5eTI=  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 05 May 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8362/1/E-Rent-a-Villa-Levanda-on-Hvar.html  Villa Levandawww.villalevanda.com 5 Apartments for rent in a beautifully decorated villa on Hvar – the island famous for lavender and boasts 285 sunny days a year. All apartments have ocean views from thebalconies and are a 1 minute walk to the beach.. you can fly direct from New York or Chicagoto split, arrive am, take the ferry to Hvar and be on the beach the same day. For more infoview www.villalevanda.com  or contact Sandra on 1 917 238 3781.sandrasperka@tmgmt.com    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 17 Apr 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8361/1/E-599-Round-trip-New-York---Split-and-Zagreb-Croatia.html  $599 Round Trip Airline Ticket from New Yorkto Split and Zagreb, Croatia  32-66 Steinway Street Astoria, NY 11103 info@croatiatravel.com Tel. 718-726-6700 Toll Free 800-662-7628 Fax. 718-956-3988 Croatia Travel is proud to announce the opening of our new office in Cleveland, Ohio. 34900 Lakeshore Blvd.Ste.202 Eastlake, OH 44095 marija@croatiatravel.com Tel. 440-942-1400 Toll Free 877-577-5503 Fax. 440-942-4575 Mention that you've seen this on CROWN.Limited time offer from Croatia Travel      letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 17 Apr 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8360/1/H-Direktni-letovi-iz-SAD-a-za-Hrvatsku-predstavljeni-u-Hiltonu.html  Direktni letovi iz SAD-a za Hrvatsku predstavljeni u Hilton Hotelu za samo $599.00NEW YORK- U prisustvu brojnih novinara, turistickih djelatnika, predstavnika hrvatske zajednice i diplomacije u hotelu Hilton na Manhattanu je u petak 15. travnja odrzana javna prezentacija direktnih letova iz SAD-a za Hrvatsku. Kao domacin predstavljanja u New Yorku prisutne je pozdravio Boris Miketic, vlasnik putnicke agencije Croatia Travel, koja je uz poslovnu grupu Astada i zracnu kompaniju Transmeridian airline bila domacinom ovog dogadjaja.O pokretanju projekta direktnih letova za Hrvatsku govorio je zatim Milivoj Miki Pavletic, predsjednik poslovne grupe Astada. On je priblizio prisutnima kako je doslo do realizacije ovog projekta te naglasio kako se nada da ce mogucnost direktnog putovanja iz New Yorka i Chicaga do Splita i Zagreba napokon poboljsati komunikaciju izmedju dvije zemlje. «Mogucnost direktnog putovanja povecat ce i ogromne potencijale koji postoje u hrvatskom turizmu, a koji je jos uvijek premalo poznat Amerikancima», kazao je Pavletic. Zracnu kompaniju Transmeridian Airlines predstavio je Russel Ryan, podpredsjednik za poslovni razvoj (Vice President Business Development). On je govorio o strategiji razvoja, klijentima i mogucnostima koje TMA nudi. Isto tako on je podrobno opisao zrakoplov Boeing 757 - 200ER, nosivosti 200 osoba koji ce od 3. lipnja do 5. rujna prevoziti putnike na relaciji New York â€" Zagreb, New York â€" Split, Chicago â€" Zagreb, Chicago- Split i iste linije u povratnom smjeru. TMA nudi sigurnu i pouzdanu uslugu, a dokazali smo to i ove godine kada je TMA bio sluzbeni zracni prijevoznik predsjednicke kampanje Kerry&Edwards», kazao je Russel.O direktnim letovima je zatim govorila Marina Zadro iz putnicke agencije Vega Travel iz Chicaga. Ona je istaknula kako je vijest o direktnim letovima izuzetno dobro primljena medju Hrvatima Chicaga. «Za sada imamo uistinu izvrsne reakcije i puno dobrih zelja, jer je ocigledno da se ovaj projekt dugo i s nestrpljenjem ocekivao. Zahvalni smo svima koji su prepoznali vrijednost ove akcije, a posebno naglasavamo izvrsnu podrsku Hrvatskog generalnog konzulata u Chicagu», kazala je Zadro. Menadzer touroperatora Speranza iz Zagreba Andrea Blazekovic predstavila je turisticke ture od sedam dana, te naglasila kako u organiziranju boravka u Hrvatskoj Speranza nusi visoku kvalitetu usluge i mogucnost upoznavanja najatraktivnijih turistickih destinacija u Hrvatskoj. Ona je zatim pozvala sve hrvatske i americke goste da posjete biser Jadrana i boravak u Hrvatskoj ucine jedinstvenim i posebnim iskustvom, koje od sada postaje dostupno i lako izvedivo upravo zahvaljujuci direktnim letovima vec od 3. lipnja. O mogucnostima koje ce direktni letovi otvoriti za promociju hrvatskog turizma u Americi govorila je zatim Nena Komarica, voditeljica Ureda Hrvatske turisticke zajednice u New Yorku. «Hrvatska je danas vodeca turisticka destinacija. Lonely planet proglasio je nasu zemlju najpozeljnijom destinacijom ove godine, dok se i ovaj mjesec, drugu godinu za redom Hrvatska nasla kao tema travanjskog broja JaxFax, vodeceg magazina za putnicke agencije», kazala je Komarica, te dodala lkako zanimanje za Hrvatsku nikad nije bilo vece te kako je upravo sad pravi trenutak da se brojni zainteresirani gosti usmjere i dovedu do Hrvatske. Ove godine, kazale je Nena Komarica ocekujemo da ce Hrvatsku iz Amerike posjetiti 200. 000 gostiju, sto je daljnje poboljsanje u odnosu na proteklih nekoliko godina, a cemu ce znatno doprinijeti upravo postojanje direktnih letova. Okupljene goste na prezentaciji u Hilton hotelu pozdravio je i generalni konzul republike Hrvatske u New Yorku, gospodin Petar Ljubicic, koji je takodjer naglasio kako se ovim projektom napokon otvaraju i neslucene mogucnosti daljnje promocije i priblizavanja hrvatskih ljepota americkim turistima i svijetu. «Nadamo se da ce ovaj projekt popuniti prazninu koja je dugo postojala i zelimo mu puno uspjeha», kazao je generalni konzul Ljubicic. Prezentacija projekta direktnih letova za Hrvatsku popracena je snimkama hrvatskih turistickih ljepota, a svim gostima uruceni su paketi s promotivnim turistickim materijalima i suvenirima. Predstavljanje direktnih letova naislo je u hotelu Hilton u New Yorku na veliku podrsku i odobravanje, kako od turistickih djelatnika tako i od clanova hrvatske zajednice te brojnih poslovnih ljudi i predstavnika medija. Cijena povratne karte iz New Yorka do Zagreba i Splita pocinje vec od 599.00 dolara a prvi letovi iz Zagreba i Splita za New York najavljeni su za istu cijenu.CROATIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Inc.(The consolidator for flights from New York - JFK)Phone: 800-662-7628www.CroatiaTravel.com Email: sales@croatiatravel.com    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 17 Apr 2005 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8363/1/E-DUBROVNIK-Croatian-city-exquisitely-calm.html  Fully revived Croatian city exquisitely calm DUBROVNIKPosted on Sun, Mar. 27, 2005 BY CAROL PUCCISeattle Timescpucci@seattletimes.com Travel Wise is aimed at helping people travel smart, especially independent travelers seeking good value. Drawing on my own experiences and readers', I'll cover everything from the best resources to how to tap into the local culture. My column runs the last Sunday of each month.DUBROVNIK, Croatia - At the Gavun fish bar, trays of salt cod, sardines and fresh squid fill a glass case in a closet-size kitchen. Diners relax outdoors on sidewalk picnic tables shaded by red umbrellas.In between bites of a $3 tuna carpaccio sandwich, I caught the attention of Alan Durovic, the Gavun's young owner, and asked about the Complaints Book.''The Complaints Book is on the front table,'' read a note at the top of his menu.I had no complaints, but I was curious.''Do you really have a complaints book?'' I asked, as he darted past my table with a platter of the finger-length sardines Croatians eat like French fries. ''Of course not,'' he smiled.I'd been trying to solve the mystery of the Complaints Book ever since I'd seen a dusty blue volume labeled ''Complaints'' sitting on a hotel bar a few days before. On my way to the restroom, I peeked inside. There were instructions in five languages and carbon paper for making copies, but all the pages were blank.''Is it something that's required by law?'' I asked Durovic.''Of course!'' he smiled again.A regulation left over from the days of Yugoslavia and communism, he speculated, but Durovic now has bigger concerns. Among them: how to kick-start a fledging business in a postcard-perfect town that many foreigners still equate with bombs and destruction.Dubrovnik has been called the city of light and stone; a city of poets, writers and scientists. Today, it might be called the city of survivors.A dozen years after a siege by the Serbian-controlled Yugoslav army damaged more than 70 percent of the buildings, the historic walled Old Town has been completely restored. Few signs of the war remain.More than 250 people died, but not everyone fled.''Some of us stayed,'' said Vesna Gamulin. Dressed in flared blue jeans and a white shawl, her blond hair tied back to show off a pair of handmade silver earrings, she showed me the ''street'' where she was born, a steep alley of stone steps and landings where my husband and I rented an apartment for a few days last spring. ``We defended the city with our presence.''Her fluency in several languages earned her a job as a translator after the Balkan war. Today she guides visitors on walking tours through old Dubrovnik, pointing out friends who reopened jewelry shops and restaurants after the war ended.Ringed by medieval walls 80 feet high in some parts, Dubrovnik's historical center was rebuilt in Baroque style after a 1667 earthquake. Millions went into reconstruction after the war ended in May 1992. Today, the only way to tell a building that was damaged from one that was not is by the color of its roof -- red tiles for new; yellow for old.GETTING SITUATEDRenting an audio guide and walking the 1 ½-mile sea wall is the best way to orient yourself, but we were able to get our bearings by just looking out our bedroom window.Most visitors stay in the modern city outside the walls, in resort hotels stretching along the Adriatic coast. But for us, spending the night in pedestrian-only Old Town left us feeling less like tourists in an outdoor museum and more like part of the living city that old Dubrovnik becomes once the day-trippers leave.Huffing and puffing our way up 84 stone steps on Palmoticeva, a pedestrian alley that passes for a street in Old Town, was a small inconvenience for the rewards that went with the apartment we rented through a Croatian travel agency.Our neighbors panted their way up the stairs just like we did, only they lugged bags of groceries from the corner store. They watched satellite TV, played basketball, grew gardens in tiny patches of grass surrounded by acres of stone and strung their laundry on clotheslines that stretched between buildings.A few steps away from our apartment was a row of outdoor restaurants and cafes on Prijeko Street. Prijeko means ''across,'' a reference to the time when this part of town was divided from the rest of Dubrovnik by a swamp, now limestone-paved Stradun, the main pedestrian promenade.From our third-floor window, we looked down over the rooftops at the rotunda of the big, 16-sided Onofrio drinking fountain, built in the 15th century, that continued to work and supply water during the Balkan war.To the right was the 14th-century Franciscan monastery and cloister with an antique pharmacy that still serves as the Old Town's main drugstore. Below us was the Stradun and the Cafe Orlando, our favorite spot for morning cappuccino and 60-cent slices of cherry strudel served by waitresses in blue blazers and gold neckties.Casual strolls down random alleyways led us into courtyards where we found women selling dried figs, hand-knitted booties and oils made of lavender.JEWELRY MAKERSModern craftsmen carry on Dubrovnik's tradition as a jewelry-making center. On the Stradun, jewelers Luci Vierda, 19, and her father, Matija, sold craft reproductions of traditional silver and gold filigree earrings and pendants in a shop that has been in the family since 1914. Nearby, Galerija Nakita, displays more modern designs inside a maze of rooms flooded in neon light.Around the corner from our apartment we found the Convent of the Transfiguration where Franciscan nuns first came to live in the 13th century.Vesna had tipped us off about a small museum that the nuns open on request. When we walked into the stone courtyard and rang the doorbell, Sister Karolina stuck her head out a top-floor window and motioned for us to push open the wooden door and come inside.She spoke only Croatian and Italian, but she spent 45 minutes showing us through exhibits stored in the basement where the nuns hid during the war. On display were antique irons, tools for spinning and weaving wool, urns used for storing olive oil; paintings and artwork. Shells and pieces of shrapnel from the war were arranged on a wooden table.Sister Karolina went to a drawer and found some printed material in English that explained how workers uncovered ancient paintings and other architectural elements of an original medieval church next door to the convent when they removed plaster while making repairs after the war.Dubrovnik was a major maritime power when it broke from Venetian and Hungarian rule and became the independent Republic of Ragusa in the 14th century. Strip away the trappings of the tourist destination it is today and it remains essentially a fishing village. Mussels, squid, sardines and octopus are the local specialties, and old Dubrovnik supports a thriving restaurant and cafe scene.The restaurants along Prijeko would tempt any visitor with their displays of shellfish on ice and candlelit outdoor tables. But locals consider them tourist traps, and pointed us instead to neighborhood spots such as Lokanda Pskarija, a harborside cafe with a few tables scattered around a stone patio next to scales where fishermen weigh their catch.We watched more than one sunset here as we sampled local specialties such as black risotto -- colored so with squid ink -- and Mussels Buzara, cooked in wine, oil, garlic (never onion) and tomatoes. Rarely did we pay more than $20 for a meal for two.''Hole-in-the-wall'' and ''hidden hideaway'' are cliché descriptions, but they literally fit the Cafe Buza, an outdoor bar clinging to a sea cliff just outside the eastern walls.The only way to reach the Buza is through a hole poked into a cement archway, and the only clue that you've found the place is a wooden sign with an arrow that says Cold Drinks.It was chilly and beginning to rain when we claimed the last free table on the terrace. We ordered beers and waited out the storm under a thatched awning while listening to Frank Sinatra tunes blend with the sounds of waves pounding against rock.A waiter came by with a tray filled with tiny plastic cups.''Something to warm you up,'' he said, handing us each a shot of a clear liquid that tasted like vodka.Rather than rushing everyone out the door to clear tables for new customers, he offered drinks on the house.I wondered if the Buza had a Complaints Book, but just couldn't bring myself to ask.http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald/living/travel/11216725.htm   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 30 Mar 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8365/1/E-ARRIVE-WITH-THE-SUNRISE-to-Croatia.html  ARRIVE WITH THE SUNRISEANNOUNCING DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM USA TO CROATIA Business groupAstada and travel agencies Croatia Travel from New York and Vega International Travel from Chicago are announcing the start of direct seasonal flights from JFK in New York and O’Hare in Chicago to Zagreb and Split in Croatia. Direct flights from USA to Croatia are finally here! After many years American Croats, their American friends, business people and numerous tourists will finally be able to travel directly starting on June 3rd from New York to Split.Direct flights are operated by Trans Meridian Airlines, Inc with a fleet of 2 modern Boeing 757-200 ER. The plane carries 200 passengers: 190 passengers in economy class and 10 passengers in business class. The round trip flights from Chicago and New York to Split and Zagreb will make a short refueling stop on Iceland. The flights will operate from June 3rd, 2005 to September 5th 2005, with 4 weekly flights from New York and Chicago.New York flights are leaving from JFK’s terminal 4 to Split on Fridays at 5:15pm, arriving at Split on Saturday 9:20am. Return from Split is on Saturday 11:30 am, arriving JFK at 6:05pm.From New York to Zagreb flights leave on Sundays at 5:15pm, arriving Zagreb on Monday at 9:30am, returning from Zagreb on Monday at 11:30am arriving JFK at 6:05pm.From Chicago to Zagreb flights leave on Fridays at 2:15pm, and to Split on Sundays at 2:15pm, returning back to Chicago at 10:00 am arriving Chicago at 4:50 pm.Baggage allowance is 2 suitcases weighting up to 45lbs each, or 1 suitcase weighting up to 99lbs. Children have the same baggage allowance while infants have none.This is a great chance for the American traveler to experience a great event. Direct flights will make your Croatian vacation more pleasant and give you an opportunity to discover the superior natural beauty and rich historical and cultural heritage Croatia has to offer!For flights from Chicago callVEGA InternationalTravel Services, Inc.Phone: 800- FLY THERE (359-8437)www.vegatravel.net For flights from New York call CROATIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Inc.Phone: 800-662-7628www.CroatiaTravel.com Or contact your own travel agent.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 21 Mar 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8364/1/E-Krecu-direktni-letovi-iz-SAD-a-za-Hrvatsku-4-puta-tjedno.html  Krecu direktni letovi iz SAD-a zaHrvatsku cetri puta tjednoFOR IMMEDIATE RELEASEContact:Astada Group Inc.Croatia Travel Agency, Inc.VEGA International Travel Services, Inc.Krecu direktni letovi iz SAD-a za HrvatskuPoslovna grupa Astada i turisticke agencije Croatia Travel iz New Yorka i Vega International Travel Services iz Chicaga najavljuju realizaciju direktnih sezonskih letova od zrakoplovnih luka u New Yorku i Chicagu do Zagreba i Splita u Hrvatskoj.Putovanje direktnim letom iz Sjedinjenih Americkih Drzava do Hrvatske napokon postaje stvarnost. Nakon dugogodisnjeg iscekivanja americki ce Hrvati, kao i njihovi americki prijatelji, poslovni ljudi i brojni turisti imati priliku prvim promotivnim letom vec 3. lipnja ove godine putovati direktno od New Yorka do Splita. Direktni letovi ce se realizirati u suradnji sa zrakoplovnom kompanijom Trans Meridian Airlines, inc., koja je za letove do Hrvatske osigurala dva supermoderna zrakoplova tipa Boeing 757-200 ER. Nosivost zrakoplova je 200 putnika od cega 190 u ekonomskoj i 10 u poslovnoj klasi. Na putovanju od Chicaga i New Yorka do Splita i Zagreba, zrakoplovi ce se nakratko zaustavljati samo na Islandu gdje ce uzeti gorivo. Iz SAD-a prema Hrvatskoj zrakoplovi ce u razdoblju od 3. lipnja do 5. rujna 2005. polijetati cetiri puta tjedno – dva leta iz New Yorka i dva leta iz Chicaga.Iz New Yorka ce zrakoplovi polijetati sa zracne luke JFK za Split petkom u 5,15sati popodne, a slijetanje u splitskoj zracnoj luci se ocekuje u subotu oko 9,20 sati ujutro. Povratak iz Splita bit ce istoga dana, u subotu u 11,30 sati prije podne, a dolazak na zracnu luku JFK u New Yorku se ocekuje u 6,05 poslije podne. Iz New Yorka za Zagreb ce se letjeti nedjeljom u 5,15 popodne, a dolazak na zagrebacku zracnu luku se ocekuje u ponedjeljak u 9,30 ujutro. Zrakoplov polijece iz Zagreba istoga dana u ponedjeljak u 11,30 sati ujutro, a u New Yorku se ocekuje u 6:05sati popodne.Iz Chicaga za Zagreb ce se letjeti svakog petka u 2:15 poslije podne, a za Split svake nedjelje u 2:15 poslije podne. Zrakoplovi se vracaju za Chicago u 10:05 ujutro sa dolaskom u 4:50 poslije podne. Postanite i sami djelom dugo ocekivanog dogaðaja na ovim prostorima. Direktnim letom ucinite svoj odmor ugodnijim i priblizite sebi i svojim prijateljima vrhunske prirodne ljepote i bogato kulturno nasljeðe nase domovine Hrvatske. Osim izuzetno prakticnog i ugodnog leta, koji ce od sada put prema domovini uciniti ugodnim i prijatnim iskustvom, organizatori jamce i autobusni prijevoz s aerodroma u Zagrebu i Splitu u druge hrvatske gradove koji su krajnja odredista putnika iz SAD-a. Ukoliko boravak u domovini zelite pretvoriti u nezaboravno iskustvo, nakon ugodnog leta prepustite se potpunom uzitku. Zajedno s direktnim letovima putnicka agencija Croatia Travel iz New Yorka nudi vam i osam vrhunski osmisljenih turistickih tura, koje ce svojom bogatom ponudom najbolje opisati zbog cega je Hrvatska ove godine vodeca svjetska turisticka destinacija. Vise informacija potrazite kod turistickih agencija;VEGA International Travel Services, Inc.(The consolidator for flights from Chicago-ORD)Phone: 800- FLY THERE (359-8437)www.vegatravel.net  CROATIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Inc.(The consolidator for flights from New York - JFK)Phone: 800-662-7628www.CroatiaTravel.com  ili kod svog putnickog agenta.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 21 Mar 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8366/1/H-Od-Lipnja-Hrvatska-povezana-sa-SAD-direktnim-letovima.html   ZRAKOPLOVNA KOMPANIJA TRANS MERIDIAN AIRLINES OD LIPNJAPOVEZUJE HRVATSKU I SADIz Splita i Zagreba prvi put izravnodo Chicaga i New YorkaOd 1. lipnja do 5. rujna svakog će se tjedna petkom letjeti iz Chicaga za Zagreb, a nedjeljom za Split, dok će povratak biti idućega dana. Iz New Yorka će, s aerodroma JFK, letovi za Split biti svakog petka, a za Zagreb svake nedjelje. Povratak je također idućeg danaSPLIT - Split i Zagreb od lipnja će dobiti dvije izravne sezonske zrakoplovne veze sa Sjedinjenim Državama. Kompanija Trans Meridian Airlines svakog će tjedna povezivati New York i Chicago s dva najveća hrvatska grada.Potvrdila nam je to Ingrid Zupicich iz newyorÅ¡ke putničke agencije Croatia Travel, koja će prodavati karte za letove Trans Meridian Airlinesa iz New Yorka prema Hrvatskoj.â€" Čini nam se da je zanimanje američkih turista za Hrvatsku ove godine povećano i to je dobar znak i za letove Trans Meridian Airlinesa. Oni će letove iz New Yorka i Chicaga prema Splitu, odnosno Zagrebu obavljati s dva zrakoplova boeing 757-200. To su udobne letjelice kapaciteta 210 putnika â€" kazala nam je Ingrid Zupicich u telefonskom razgovoru iz New Yorka. Potvrdila nam je i to da će Croatia Travel već od idućeg tjedna početi primati rezervacije za letove prema Hrvatskoj.Od istog izvora doznajemo kako će povratna karta iz New Yorka do Splita stajati oko 1000 dolara, a na naÅ¡e pitanje je li moguće da karte kupljene u Splitu za izravni let do New Yorka i Chicaga ipak budu jeftinije, agentica Croatia Travela je odgovorila:â€" Da, razmatramo takvu mogućnost, a viÅ¡e ćemo znati za tjedan dana.Kako doznajemo, zrakoplovi Trans Meridian Airlinesa od 1. lipnja do 5. rujna svakog će tjedna petkom letjeti iz Chicaga za Zagreb, a nedjeljom za Split, dok će povratak biti idućega dana. Iz New Yorka će, s aerodroma JFK, letovi za Split biti svakog petka, a za Zagreb svake nedjelje. Povratak je također idućeg dana.â€" Zrakoplovi će iz tehničkih razloga na putu od New Yorka ili Chicaga prema Splitu ili Zagrebu nakratko slijetati u Reykjaviku na Islandu â€" dodala je Ingrid Zupicich.Na splitskom aerodromu joÅ¡ nisu dobili službenu najavu za prekooceanske letove Trans Meridian Airlinesa, no voditelj službe marketinga Mateo Boljat nam je kazao kako za to joÅ¡ ima dovoljno vremena.â€" Ako letove planiraju od 1. lipnja, onda joÅ¡ nije kasno za najavu. Koliko je meni poznato, to bi bile prve izravne linije iz Sjedinjenih Država prema Splitu od samostalnosti Hrvatske â€" izjavio je Mateo Boljat. Dodao je usput da je ovoga tjedna Å¡est ljetnih čarter letova između Toronta i Splita najavila kanadska kompanija Skyservice Airlines.Ivo Å ĆEPANOVIĆhttp://www.slobodnadalmacija.com/20050316/novosti07.asp   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 16 Mar 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8367/1/E-Direct-seasonal-flights-to-Croatia-from-New-York--Chicago.html  Direct Flights to Croatia from USAFrom June 3rd to September 5thNew York - ZagrebNew York - SplitChicago - ZagrebChicago - Split ASTADA Group Inc. entered a Commercial Agreement with TRANS MERIDIAN AIRLINES, Inc. to fly seasonal direct flights form USA to Croatia and Ukraine.The flight program will start June 1, 2005 and finish September 5, 2005.TMA will fly from Chicago( ORD ) every week to Zagreb ( on Friday ), Split ( on Sunday  ) and Kiev ( on Wednesday ), returning the next day back.The flights from New York ( JFK ) will depart every week to Split ( on Friday ) and Zagreb ( on Sunday ), returning the next day back.  TMA will operate this program with two B 757-200 ER aircrafts. www.transmeridian-airlines.com  The consolidator for flights from Chicago (ORD) is: VEGA International Travel Services, Inc.Phone: 800- FLY THERE (359-8437)www.vegatravel.net The consolidator for flights from New York (JFK) is: CROATIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Inc.Phone: 800-662-7628www.CroatiaTravel.com Please contact your travel agent for more information.  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 11 Mar 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8368/1/E-End-of-the-world-but-the-beginning-of-everything-Logbook.html  “End of the world but the beginning of everything.”Logbook of the m.s.Andrea USHUAIA — ANTARCTICAJanuary 6-15, 2005 www.elegantcruises.com/  First Wedding on the AntarticaIn late afternoon the wedding of Jessica and David Wilborntook place ashore at Orne Harbor. A crowd gathered on a smallsnow covered slope, Dick gave the preamble and then CaptainPazanin conducted the service –pronouncing them man and wife.Then Praba and Jittu sang a traditional Sanskrit song of goodwishes for the bride and groom. Then the revelers were taken ona zodiac tour of the area and then back to the ship for a champagnecelebration. We remained at anchor all night in this beautiful area. expedition leader: Dr.KimCrosbieassistant E. L.: Sonja Messicklecturers: Dick Cameron, Gustavo Lovrich, Nanette SchleichMonday, 6 December ushuaia, argentinaThe m.s. Andrea calmly awaited dockside for its passengers whilethe crew was stowing supplies, preparing staterooms, and settingtables for dinner. The expedition crew was also busy checkingradios, and practicing Zodiac launching from the bow area.The passengers arrived at about 1600 hrs and were shown totheir cabins and their luggage appeared as well. All received theirown luggage and for the crew there was a sigh of relief, for whenluggage is misplaced immediate confusion breaks out with everyonesearching everywhere for the missing piece.A buffet of sandwiches, pastries, tea and coffee was set in theKittwake Lounge for the passengers. This allowed them to mingleand get to know one another. Dr. Kim Crosbie, Expedition Leader,took advantage of this gathering to introduce the expedition staff :Sonja Messick (Assistant Expedition Leader), Dick Cameron,Nanette Schleich, and Gustavo Lovrich.People then had the chance to familiarize themselves with theship by taking a nice walkabout. The Mandatory Life Boat andSafety at Sea Drill was postponed as cargo was still being loaded.Dock workers were on strike so the cargo had to be brought tothe ship by small boat and then loaded through the starboard side(the port side was along the dock). Just before 2000 hrs the shipbegan to maneuver from the dock and by 2007 hrs. the Andreawas full away. And then in short order the mandatory drill tookplace followed by dinner as the passengers were, by this time,famished.Leaving Ushuaia the sign on shore read “End of world but thebeginning of everything.” The Andrea sailed smoothly down theBeagle Channel on its way to Antarctica.Tuesday, 7 December All night long and all day long, the Andrea did her imitation ofRock and Roll. Numerous passengers and a few of the Expeditionstaff were somewhat without sea legs and thus scheduled lecturesand other informative activities were postponed. Severaltimes during the day one heard the crashing of dishes and onewould think that we were attending a Greek wedding.Some lectures were given and they were:A Time to Krill – Gustavo LovrichKrill are the keystone of the Antarctic ecosystem with whales,penguins, and seals depending on krill for sustenance. Krill are themost abundant animal on earth. Gustavo presented informationon numbers of krill, their biology, and the way in which krill studiesare being done.Antarctic Sea Birds by KimOverview of the types of birds and their unbelievable life at sea.Basic Geology by DickThis was an overview of basic geology and a primer on platetectonics and the overall geology of the Antarctic continent.Passengers reported seeing penguins and a whale. The systemworks, as the only real way to enjoy Antarctica is out on deck. At2000 hrs fog appeared and the sea temperature dropped to 0degrees Centigrade. We were crossing the convergence wherecold Antarctic waters meet the warmer seas to the north.In the evening a contest was announced whereby the person whosaw the first iceberg would win a bottle of champagne. The excitementof the passengers was keen but it all came to a halt when at2100 hrs all were notified that it was Ivan, the Ice Captain, was theone who sighted the berg. As he is considered staff he was ineligiblefor the bottle. The berg was sighted at 59 degrees and 25 minutessouth latitude and 62 degrees and 23 minutes west longitude.NOON POSITION: 57°22.7’S 69°28.9’WWednesday, 8 December Icebergs were all over this morning, and under a beautiful bluesky we sailed on Southwards. The first lecture of the day was byNanette, entitled Science in Antarctica Part 1. This lecture explainedthe Antarctic Treaty and how it is the basis of worldwide cooperationand governance of the continent. She also gave a briefoverview of the significant research projects that are underway.Kim conducted a Mandatory Zodiac Briefing whereby the passengerswere given the rudiments of how to board and disembarkfrom these rubber crafts and the do’s and don’ts while in the zodiac.They were also instructed in the IAATO Code of Conduct inAntarctica. The environment on the continent is fragile and theanimals have such a short summer their activities must not beinterrupted.The first landing of the day was to be Aitcho Island in the groupof islands called the South Shetlands. However, the wind wouldnot quit and a landing was impossible. So we sailed on. We founda decent place to land at Half Moon Bay where there was an abandonedboat most likely left by whalers. The landing went smoothlyand we were able have a nice walk to see the Chinstrap penguinsand some Weddell seals. Of course I am only kidding about a nicewalk, as every step of the way on the snow surface was one ofanticipation as to how deep will my foot go this time. This landingwas great as there was plenty of time to spend absorbing this environment.After this good time ashore the passengers returned tothe Andrea to prepare for the Captain’s Welcoming Cocktail Partyand Dinner.During the evening we sailed towards the Weddell Sea side ofthe Peninsula. As we approached the Antarctic Sound the greattabular bergs appeared as if on parade. A beautiful sightNOON POSITION: 62°29.2’S 59°22.0’WThursday, 9 December By early this morning we had passed through the AntarcticSound and were in Terror and Erebus Gulf. The destination wasDevil Island but as we arrived the wind was too strong for a landingso we sailed south along the Prince Gustav Channel that separatesJames Clark Ross Island from the mainland Peninsula. Butbefore long sea ice obstructed further progress and the ship cameabout and we once again headed for Devil Island. This island is astrange one, set in an embayment of the larger island called Vega.The islands in this area are fascinating in two ways. The first isthat the Swedish explorer Nordenskjold wintered on Snow HillIsland in the early 1900’s and the story of his travail and rescue isan amazing one which is yet to be properly appreciated. And secondly,the islands have some interesting Mesozoic and Cenozoicrocks in which numerous unique fossils have been foundincluding the remains of a 6 foot tall penguin.We were able to land on Devil Island as the wind speeddecreased. On the island were large rookeries of Adelie penguinsguarding their precious eggs and it was more than entertaining towatch their antics of communication and their serious attention tothe business of keeping the eggs at a proper temperature. Somepeople climbed to the summit of the island while others watchedpenguins and strolled along the beach.There were several good examples of columnar jointed basaltalong the beach. This jointing is produced when lava flows outonto the surface and cools rapidly. Back to the ship and Gustavotold the fascinating story of Nordenskjold’s expedition with itsunbelievable coincidences of sledge journeys, boat trips, time, andplace that finally reunited the expedition.During the evening we sailed towards Paulet Island wherethere resides a tremendous number of penguins. Enroute, however,the wind increased to a gale over 50km/hr. and the ship had apermanent list to starboard. We could see where the huge rookerywas on Paulet but there was no way to visit the island so wesailed on into the Antarctic Sound and then during the night theship made its way to Deception Island.NOON POSITION: 63°45.7’S 57°16.1’WFriday, 10 December As we awoke we were just off the entrance to Deception Island.The sky was overcast but visibility was reasonable. When passengerswere notified of our position and what we were about to dothe decks were immediately filled and we sailed throughNeptune’s Bellows and into Port Foster. We made directly forPendulum Cove and the morning swim.There were a large number of passengers hardy enough to dothe swim. Steam covered the beach and the shallows. Nanettewas to be the sacrificial lamb so in she went and said the waterwas fine. The rest followed with giggles and oh’s and aw’s. Asswimmers came out they were handed nice heavy towels. Nowthey could brag they had been swimming in Antarctica.Our next stop on Deception Island was Telefon Bay where theeruption of 1967 created a large crater. The passengers climbed tothe crater and viewed this large depression with steep sides and aflat central area, and waterfall on the far side. Kim led a group ofwalker/climbers up and around the crater while the remainderrelaxed and strolled to view a small crater nearby and then back tothe beach. At the beach a group of Weddell seals were sunbathingon the snow so passengers had another opportunity to take a fewphotographs. The number of photos being taken on this trip mustbe phenomenal as cameras seem to be in constant action. In the olddays one could here the clicking of cameras – now they are silent.Onto Whaler’s Bay to view the remains of the old whaling stationand the equipment used for rendering the blubber and storingthe whale oil. Here also are the remains of a British research stationabandoned after the 1967 volcanic eruption. LincolnEllsworth landed here on his historic flight from South America toLittle America in 1935.We left Deception in early evening headed for a landing on thecontinent.NOON POSITION: 62° 56’ S 60°40’ WSaturday, 11 December Early this morning we approached the continent of Antarctica. Itwas with palpable anticipation that the passengers were ready toland on what is known as the Seventh Continent. The Zodiacstook the Redcoats to Selvick Cove of the Antarctic Peninsula andpeople stepped onto a new continent. For many of them it wasindeed their 7th continent while others, especially the youngerpassengers, have a few continents yet to go. Group pictures weretaken and people mingled about on the rocky beach and on thesnow platform beneath the rocky cliff.Taking advantage of surrounding majestic mountains and theirice cover as plateau glaciers and outlet glaciers, Dick gave a brieftalk on glaciology; their classification from ice sheet to ice cap tovalley glacier and how they are formed and how they flow.From here the zodiacs took all to Cuverville Island where therewere several Gentoo penguin rookeries. The water here was veryclear so one could watch the penguins swimming underwater. Anumber of passengers went on a stimulating walk high up on therock for fantastic views of the mountains and glaciers that surroundthe area.With all aboard once again the Andrea sailed from Cuverville forNeumayer Channel, a spectacular waterway between Anvers andWiencke Island. Unable to penetrate the channel very far, the shipcame about with the intention of trying to reach the southernentrance of the Neumayer via the Gerlache Strait. Had we beenable to do this we would have visited Port Lockroy, a Heritage Siterun by the British. But unfortunately ice blocked the Andrea’s pathonce again and at 64 degrees 47 minutes south latitude, the mostsoutherly point reached on this trip, the Andrea headed north.Before long a pod of orcas’ were sighted headed south.In late afternoon the wedding of Jessica and David Wilborntook place ashore at Orne Harbor. A crowd gathered on a smallsnow covered slope, Dick gave the preamble and then CaptainPazanin conducted the service –pronouncing them man and wife.Then Praba and Jittu sang a traditional Sanskrit song of goodwishes for the bride and groom. Then the revelers were taken ona zodiac tour of the area and then back to the ship for a champagnecelebration.We remained at anchor all night in this beautiful area.NOON POSITION: 64°41.0’S 62°38.0’WSunday, 12 December Waking, the passengers could not believe their eyes, for onceagain blue sky and absolutely wonderful calm weather engulfedthem as if embraced by a loved one. Well, that seems to be a littletoo poetic but it indeed was a beautiful day.We arrived at Enterprise Island and a zodiac cruise was initiated.The island is located in Whilemina Bay where whalers wouldbring in the whales for processing. The wreck of the factory shipGuvernorn is there rusting away. The ship was destroyed in a fireon the 27th of January in 1915. Through a hole in the hull wecould see the explosive harpoons that were used to kill the whales.A bygone age. Although the Japanese are still doing some whaling.We cruised around the area and saw many Kelp Gulls and afew Weddell seals. One seal left his snowy perch, entered thewater, and swam past the zodiac creating a fantastic wake. Backto the ship and we sailed north to Ceirva Bay.Into the zodiacs again. This area is the sight of the Argentinestation Primavera which is presently unmanned. These stationscost a great deal to maintain and so it will most likely only be utilizedfor special research projects. The reason for our visit herewas to see leopard seals. Kim knows this Peninsula so well thatindeed we saw a wonderful leopard seal on an ice floe. We wereable to get quite close and get good pictures. As we were concentratingon the seal a Minke whale appeared and began to playwith us. The three zodiacs cut their engines and drifted about asthe whale came up between the boats and then dived under theboats. The passengers and the staff were thrilled with this performance.In the evening we made our last landing on Trinity Islandwhere there was a Argentine Refuge and many Gentoo penguins.This was a somewhat sad visit as the passengers knew this wastheir goodbye to Antarctica. It was a quiet evening with no windand on the ride back to the Andrea we could see golden clouds atthe horizon.The Andrea set sail on a heading of 330 degrees for Cape Horn.NOON POSITION: 64°32.1’S 61°51.2’WMonday, 13 December At sea in the Drake Passage. This cruise has been an extremelylucky with a southern crossing in relatively moderate seas andnow as we head north the seas seem to be behaving once again.Today the activities were confined to shipboard as the zodiacsare stowed away for the crossing. We have had eleven landingswhich is quite remarkable in such a short time.Today’s lectures were:Science in Antarctica II by NanetteNannette devised a research project to determine the amount ofsunlight that penetrates snow. She conducted this work nearScott Base on Ross Island, McMurdo Sound. Her results agreedfavorably with other researchers.Armageddon in Antarctica by GustavoIcebergs scrape the bottom of the sea destroying animal andplant life that have been living for hundreds of years. It will take along, long time for these biota to reestablish their communities.Global Warming by DickA series of examples of warming trends were presented includingcoral reef loss, drying up of Chinese rivers, increased rain andstorms on East coast of the U.S.A°., and finally how the ice coverof Kilimanjaro will be gone in about 15 years. An astute observationby one of the passengers noted that in the map shown amajority of the ice cover disappeared between 1910 and 1923,before real concern about the greenhouse effect.After each lecture there were numerous questions that led tomore questions and a lively ensued.Just before dinner we had the Andrea Quiz with groups of sixanswering 25 questions, doing a crossword puzzle, and composinga song. The creativity of the songs was amazing. The group withthe highest number of points won a bottle of champagne.Dinner was delightful as ever with conversation somewhatmore animated stemming from some of the controversial answersto quiz questions.NOON POSITION: 61°08.0’S 63°33.8’WTuesday, 14 December At sea. Last night the Andrea gave the passengers a taste of theDrake with pitching and rolling for a number of hours. But bybreakfast time the sea had moderated and remained that way forthe rest of the day. By late morning Cape Horn was sighted –South America was in sight.Today the lectures were:How to Cope with Antarctica by GustavoThis talk explained the mechanisms by which the various animalskeep from freezing.Long line fishing and the Albatross by KimThe ongoing slaughter of these birds is a terrible tragedy that iscaused by the birds taking the baitand being pulled under thewater and drowned. Efforts to develop methods to minimizethese deaths were discussed.The Uttermost Part of the Earth by DickTwo books that are about the Beagle Channel area were reviewed.Lucas Bridges was the son of a missionary to the Ushuaia area in1871 and in his book “Uttermost Part of the Earth” he describesthe life in Tierra del Fuego and the various the Indian tribes.Rockwell Kent’s book “Voyaging Southward from the Strait ofMagellan” describes his trip to this area in 1922 and his woodcutsare gorgeous.Rain began to fall as we approached the Beagle Channel. Thefirst bad weather of the trip. We hove to for part of the eveningas we waited for the pilot to take us into Ushuaia. The Captain’sFarewell Cocktail Party and Dinner was a splendid affair. At theend of the Cocktail Party Kim showed a series of photos withAfrican music in the background. The photos were made availablefor those contributing to the Save the Albatross effort andthis wonderful group of passengers all did so.The dinner was magnificent. It was a great finale to this adventure.NOON POSITION 55°54.8’S 66°43.3’WWednessday, 15 December The Andrea arrived at the dock in Ushuaia at 0700 hrs amid abright sunny day and the mountains about the harbor coveredwith powdered sugar. While rain was falling on the lower Beaglelast night snow was dusting the mountains.Disembarkation day is always a day of where did I put my luggage?What time does the bus leave for the airport? And can Iboard the ship again to look for my pen? But it always works outand the passengers leave for their many destinations with happymemories of a wonderful trip to Antarctica and a good feelingabout the Andrea and its crew.NOON POSITION 54°48.5’S 68°16.4’W Captain Stanovic, owner of m.s.Andrea, Nenad Bach, Marilyn Armbruster  For further information regarding our special luxury cruises call your travel agent or contact us at: Elegant Cruises & Tours, Inc. 24 Vanderventer Avenue Port Washington, NY 11050 Ph: 516-767-9302 1-800-683-6767 Fax: 516-767-9303 e-mail: info@elegantcruises.com   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 13 Feb 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8369/1/E-EUR-265-Million-For-Modernisation-Of-Dubrovnik-Port.html  EUR26.5 Million For Modernization Of Dubrovnik Port Feb. 02 2005 As more and more cruise passengers flock to Dubrovnik – one of the most popular attractions on the Adriatic Sea – a €26.5 million EBRD loan aims to help modernize Gruz Harbour to meet the growing demand. The loan is part of a plan by the Dubrovnik Port Authority to upgrade its facilities. Basic infrastructure will be modernized, including expansion of berth capacity to accommodate as many as three of the new generation of 300-metre cruise ships at one time. EBRD First Vice President Noreen Doyle, speaking at a signing ceremony in the city, said the project will allow Dubrovnik to burnish its already enviable position as one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean tourism market. The Bank’s investment in this public infrastructure will help create attractive business conditions for subsequent private-sector participation in the port’s development, Ms Doyle added. The second phase of the development will involve construction of all the facilities a modern passenger port should have, such as a passenger terminal, parking spaces for cars, leisure and entertainment facilities and a shopping centre. Vlaho Durkovic, Manager of the Dubrovnik Port Authority, said the berth-extension investment is a crucial stage in the development of Dubrovnik as one of the must-see attractions in the Mediterranean area. The EBRD support has also led to the mobilization of grants from the UK, US, Spanish, Dutch and Italian governments to pay for consultancy assistance for different stages in the development’s preparation. Dubrovnik is internationally known for its numerous monuments, and the historic Old town is classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. Because of its rich array of history, culture beauty, climate and location between Greece and Venice, Dubrovnik is recognized as an ideal cruise port. The development of the tourism industry is key for Croatia’s economic progress given the sector’s huge potential, and the authorities are confident they can make the country one of the leading tourism destinations in Europe. http://www.harolddoan.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=619   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 08 Feb 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8370/1/E-Croatia-airlines-adds-Brussels-Split-route.html  Croatia adds Brussels Split route Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 @ 2:20 PM CET by webmaster b737229 writes "Croatia Airlines will take delivery of an additional Airbus A320 in May 2005. The aircraft is ex-Skyservice (C-GJUQ). The airline will begin nonstop service from Split to Brussels on April 2nd. The weekly Saturday Airbus A319 flight will operate in codeshare with SN Brussels Airlines." http://www.luchtzak.be/article7222.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 14 Jan 2005 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8371/1/E-Visit-Rome--Croatia.html  Visit Rome & CroatiaVisit Rome, Assisi, Dubrovnik, Medjugorje, Hvar, Split, Plitivice, Gerovo, Karlovac and Zagreb and dinner with the sisters at St. Theresa's orphanage with Don and Mary Wolf from June 17 to July 1.  Send me your e mail address or home address and I will send you details. Don Wolf Wolf1936@aol.com     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 15 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8372/1/E-Airport-Dubrovnik-expects-over-one-million-passengers.html  Airport Dubrovnik expects over one million passengers in 2005Dubrovnik Airport Sees 23% Increase in Passenger Traffic December 14, 2004 DUBROVNIK (Croatia), December 14 (SeeNews) - Dubrovnik airport officials said on Tuesday they expected passenger traffic to rise 23%, to 880,000 travelers, this year as more tourists flock to Croatia's Adriatic resort.Higher interest in Dubrovnik as a destination, coupled with improved infrastructure and more flights by low-cost and other carriers, led the increase, the airport's deputy chief executive officer Frano Luetic told SeeNews. Airport Dubrovnik expects the trend to continue next year, when passenger numbers should exceed one million.Passenger numbers through the first eleven months of the year totaled 863,507, up 23% on the year. Of those, 703,671 flew internationally. The number of takeoffs and landings rose by 20% on the year for the January-November period, to 11,969.Domestic carriers Croatia Airlines and Air Adriatic led the pack. The leading international carrier serving the airport was French Air Mediterranee, followed by British Airways, Austrian Airlines and Belgian Thomas Cook Airlines. The most popular destinations were Paris, London, Dublin, Brussels and Frankfurt.www.see-news.com  Copyright © 2004 LexisNexis, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. http://www6.lexisnexis.com/publisher/EndUser?Action=UserDisplayFullDocument&orgId=616&topicId=12552&docId=l:245897285&start=18     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 14 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8374/1/E-Croatian-Comeback-National-Georgraphic-Adventure.html  Croatian Comeback National Geographic Adventure Magazine==========================Croatian National Tourist Office350 Fifth Avenue, Suite 4003New York, NY 10118Tel: 800-829-4416; 212-279-8672Fax: 212-279-8683www.croatia.hr    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 11 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8373/1/E-Croatia-on-the-cover-of-National-Georgraphic-Adventure.html  Croatia on the cover of National Geographic Adventure  Postovani gosp. Bach, Za vasu informaciju, Hrvatska Turisticka Zajednica u New Yorku uspjela je na naslovnicu najnovijeg izdanja NG Adventure Magazina uvrstiti Hrvatsku, slapove Une.Srdacan pozdrav, Danijela PavelicTravel Consultant==========================Croatian National Tourist Office350 Fifth Avenue, Suite 4003New York, NY 10118Tel: 800-829-4416; 212-279-8672Fax: 212-279-8683www.croatia.hr     letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sat, 11 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8375/1/E-Bloomberg-Plugs-Croatia.html  Mayor Bloomberg: "Croatia is such a beautiful country and the hospitality is something that I will never forget," New York Mayor Mike Bloomberg was in Croatia yesterday lobbying Olympic officials for New York to be chosen as host for the 2012 Olympic and Paraolympic Games. In the article below from the NY Daily News (which has the largest circulation of any newspaper in New York), Bloomberg made a nice plug for Croatia as well. I also note that the local TV newsprograms in New York had stories concerning his trip to Dubrovnik.John Peter Kraljic, Esq.************************************New York Daily News - http://www.nydailynews.comMike sells Apple as Olympic home turf BY MICHAEL SAULDAILY NEWS CITY HALL BUREAU Saturday, December 4th, 2004 If New york City gets the 2012 Olympic Games, every nation would have the home-field advantage in the city's melting pot, Mayor Bloomberg said in Croatia yesterday. Bloomberg, Deputy Mayor Dan Doctoroff and Olympian Donna de Varona traveled across the Atlantic to address the General Assembly of the European Olympic Committees at the Excelsior Hotel in Dubrovnik. "There were 201 countries that competed in the Athens Olympics and we have children from 198 of them in our public school system," Bloomberg said yesterday. "No matter what the sport is and no matter what countries are participating, we'll be able to fill the stands with New Yorkers who come from that country," Bloomberg said. "It would be the most exciting thing anybody has ever seen in sports." New York is competing for the Olympics against Paris, Madrid, London and Moscow, and all five of the bid cities participated in the conference. In the hallways of the hotel, Bloomberg bumped into the mayors of Paris and Madrid, warmly wishing both of them good luck in the high-stakes global competition. Bloomberg, who had never been to Croatia before, also met with Croatian President Stjepan Mesic and Dubrovnik Mayor Dubravka Suica. "This is such a beautiful country and the hospitality is something that I will never forget," Bloomberg said.  Meanwhile yesterday, the city's bid committee launched its international outreach campaign with its first major mailing to each of the 117 members of the International Olympic Committee. The bid committee sent them a supersized brochure, measuring 38-by-26 inches and weighing 3 pounds, that contains enormous photographs of New York scenes and Olympic performances. The International Olympic Committee will select the host city in July.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 09 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8376/1/E-New-York-Mayor-Michael-R-Bloomberg-in-Croatia.html  Mayor of Dubrovnik receives Mayor of New YorkNew York mayor Michael R. Bloomberg talks to reporters in Dubrovnik, Croatia, Friday, Dec. 3, 2004, as Dubrovnik mayor Dubravka Suica stands next to him. Bloomberg arrived in Dubrovnik to present New York City's bid for the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games to the General Assembly of the European National Olympic Committees (EOC). (AP Photo/Darko Bandic)  The mayor of Dubrovnik Dubravka Suica received Friday at the City Hallthe mayor of New York Michael Bloomberg. Mayor Suica discussed with NewYork's mayor Bloomberg the situations in the Dubrovnik area, especiallythe events of 1991 when Dubrovnik endured the largest destruction by theSerbian-Montenegrin aggression, as well as its rebuilding. The New York mayor, expressing his great satisfaction regarding his visitto Dubrovnik, also stated his belief that the next years will see a largeincrease of American tourists visiting Dubrovnik and Croatia. After the meeting, the New York mayor also visited the memorial house"Ron Brown" in memory of the tragic death, in a plane crash nearDubrovnik, of the entire U.S. trade delegation led by the then Secretaryof Commerce Ron Brown.Mayor Suica presented the guest a copy of the charter in which theDubrovnik Republic recognizes in 1783 the newly independent UnitedStates of America.HINA - translation by Hilda Foley  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Tue, 07 Dec 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8377/1/E-Beauty-abounds-in-Zadar-Croatia---Help-Promote-Vote.html  Beauty abounds in Zadar, CroatiaHelp support promotion of Croatia worldwide.  Dear Al, I read the article and I support Alan Nemaric. If you feel the same please do so. Articles like this helps all of us to present our culture and heritage the way is SHOULD be presented in the first please. Article is number 2. Feel free to read all of the articles and decide on your own. I vote for Zadar. Nenad Bach Dear Nenad,FYI, I am an active writer. I have submitted an article meriting Zadar's tourism attractions. I'm competing against 5 other writers. Can I request that you ask your readers to vote for ENTRY #2 and to read my article? If it wins it will be printed nation wide in the Sun chain of newspapers, large circulation (millions)! I also win a 2 day trip in Canada (honestly, this really is not the reason I submitted the article). Help support promotion of Croatia worldwide.http://travel.canoe.ca/Travel/Contest/MyTravels/2004/11/13/715868.html Sincerely,-Alan NemaricP.S. Nenad, you're doing a great job.Beauty abounds in Zadar, CroatiaBy ALAN NEMARIC -- Special to Canoe TravelAlfred Hitchcock once said that Zadar, Croatia had the most beautiful sunsets in the world. After my most recent visit I would have to agree, but at the same time state that the sunset is just one of many reasons to visit this 3000 year old historic Dalmatian city. If you're not into swimming and sunbathing on Zadar's 5-star public or clothing optional beaches, there's always the nightlife, the restaurants and mountain climbing. But if you're more of an armchair quarterback and would rather have a cocktail and watch the beautiful people walk by... I can direct you to the best spot in the world...to front row centre! In picturesque downtown Zadar, near the main square, lies a tiny pub called "Bar Toni". "Toni" as the locals call it, sits on one of the old city's many narrow Roman and Baroque cobblestone pathways. What's so special about this place? Because this bar is so close to the Central Square and main shopping area (Benetton, Armani, Diesel, Mango, Image Haddad, Bata, etc.) most residents and visitors to this Adriatic city must walk by Bar Toni. There is no avoiding it!Like many European cities, it is customary for locals in Zadar, when visiting the old city, to look their best. If you're fortunate enough to get one of Toni's 6 outdoor seats, don't expect to be served quickly. Slow an easy is the working pace in Zadar. Once you have ordered your cappuccino or "pelinkovac and tonic" (local favourite), just sit back, put your sunglasses on, light up a Marlboro Light (yes, smoking is still legal in Europe) and wait for the show to commence. You won't believe your eyes. In a matter of minutes you will be overwhelmed with visions of absolute physical beauty. The local women and men are naturally tall, tanned, attractive and most importantly "stylish". You'll feel like you're sitting next to Madonna, watching an actual runway model show in Milano! Blondes, Brunnettes, Red Heads...there's an abundance of all on them. Croatians, Italians, Germans, Dutch, Hungarian.....all dressed to impress. It's common for people to sit at "Toni's" for hours a day, nursing their drink and hoping for a particular "man or woman" of their dreams to walk by at least one more time. It's the place where men of all ages muster up enough courage to finally say "hello" to the pretty, yet mysterious, woman who always manages to throw them a glance or smile. Toni's is the place where young hearts come alive and where old hearts reminisce. Toni's is the place where people are young, no matter how old they are. It's hard to believe that after all these years, this little Bar on Miha Klaif Street still packs the customers in, not for the quality of food, not for the drinks and certainly not for the service. People still come here to sit and watch the beautiful people and if they're lucky, one of those beautiful people will be buying them their next drink! Bar Toni is open Monday's to Sunday's, 7am to 2am!   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 17 Nov 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8378/1/E-Croatia-Sees-Bumper-Tourist-Year.html  Croatia Sees Bumper Tourist Year World Markets Analysis November 04, 2004 Valerie Mason Croatian Tourism Minister Bozidar Kalmeta said yesterday that the country had received 8.3m tourists in the first nine months of 2004, a 5% year-on-year increase and the most since it declared independence in 1991. The year-end tourist figure is expected to be over 9m. 'Croatia has stabilised and earned the image of a safe and organised tourist destination,' Kalmeta told parliament, according to French news agency AFP. Significance: Although this is a post-2001 record, the increase in tourism is now levelling off slightly. However, it has re-established itself as a significant part of the Croatian economy. The increase in overnight stays was up only 2% year-on-year, suggesting a possible increase in short breaks or visits from neighbouring countries. Copyright 2004 World Markets Research Limitedhttp://www6.lexisnexis.com/publisher/EndUser?Action=UserDisplayFullDocument&orgId=616&topicId=12552&docId=l:238513630&start=16   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 05 Nov 2004 00:00:00 -0700 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8379/1/E-Korcula-on-Front-Page-of-National-Georgraphic.html  A photo of Korcula on the National Geographic Traveler Magazine front coverThe October 2004 issue of National Geographic Traveler Magazine features a photo of Korcula on its front cover. The photo is published in connection with the cover story entitled "The New Grand Tour."John Kraljic, Esq.http://www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler/  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 06 Oct 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8381/1/E-Croatian-lighthouse-Sv-Ivan-na-Pucini-Beacon-of-light.html  Beacon of light By Eugene BrcicThe Associated PressPosted on Sun, Sep. 12, 2004 SVETI IVAN NA PUCINI, Croatia - A picture-perfect lighthouse in the Adriatic Sea stands out like a weathered relic above the cobalt-and-crimson horizon.Built in 1853 as a beacon for 19th-century mariners, this Croatian lighthouse and others like it are now being used as 21st-century retreats. For a couple of days or a week of splendid isolation, tourists can escape the hectic pace of modern life with a Robinson Crusoe adventure in one of 11 lighthouses up for rent this season.The lighthouses -- some close to 200 years old but all still working -- are the twinkling jewels on a bracelet of islands strung out along Croatia's crystal-clear Adriatic coastline.After island-hopping for four days, Sveti Ivan Na Pucini -- St. John of the High Seas -- was my pick for a brief overnight escape.It was barely the size of a regulation baseball field, taking me only a few minutes to circumnavigate its rocky perimeters, though barefooted thrill-seekers should calculate the extra time needed to negotiate some of the razor-sharp ridges.I had planned to do lofty and constructive things during my stay. I couldn't wait to abandon the rat-race of the office, to unwind and recharge my batteries, perhaps even to contemplate the finer elements of life, such as nature and humanity.But the novelty of solitude began wearing off soon after I disembarked from the dinghy that was my lifeline to civilization.Tick, tick, tick. There's no doubt about it, even the seconds and minutes are on holidays out here. I was a stranded whale, waiting helplessly for Greenpeace to haul me back home.The lighthouse keeper, Zoran Marovic, was just that, "keeping" mostly to himself and to Tara, a crossbreed terrier. He made his presence known mostly through his croaky voice, as he radioed in a carefully examined synopsis of meteorological data that included water temperatures, wind velocity, shape and makeup of clouds.Legend has it that St. John, the southernmost isle on an archipelago of 13, owes its name to a Venetian duke. The duke beseeched the saint to spare his life and those of his shipmates after sailing into troubled waters on a voyage to the nearby town of Rovinj.Reaching the shore safely, the unknown duke neglected his vow to light a candle in tribute to St. John in a chapel on the mainland. A wrathful tempest sunk his vessel upon return to the gates of Venice, killing all on board.A good bedtime story. But it wasn't even noon, and I was already yawning.In desperation, I turned to yoga. No experience, but how difficult can it be to do some deep breathing, stretching and meditation?The setting was right. Nothing but blue skies, blue seas and blue -- ouch -- bruises. Untrained and inflexible, I gave up on trying to twist my limbs into new shapes. Besides, I already was in a state of bliss; this was after all a deserted island, with just me, Friday and his scruffy dog.Then, a flash of nirvana. How about just relaxing, kicking my feet up and doing nothing -- zip, zilch, nada?Words cannot do justice to the feeling of a gentle breeze caressing your cheeks, bringing with it fresh juniper- and salt-scented air as you gaze into pristine waters, while sun and clouds conspire to create turquoise, emerald or quicksilver reflections.Then there is the breathtaking closeness of the universe at twilight; the luminescence of the moon or the brilliance of the stars, and the taste of Zoran's grilled block-tailed sea bream, lathered in olive oil, with a sprinkling of garlic and parsley, washed down with a glass too many of robust red wine.Once I reached the right mood of contemplation, the minutes and hours flew by. My respite from reality was over much too soon, and bliss was replaced by pangs of regret as the same weathered dinghy that brought me here slowly began carrying me away.http://www.centredaily.com/mld/centredaily/living/9645483.htm   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 12 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8382/1/E-Croatia.html  Croatia "Heaven on Earth"Much has been said about the beauty of Croatia. "Heaven on Earth" has been described in many books by artists, in paintings and countless photographs. "God wanted to crown his creation, so on the last day he created the Croatian Adriatic from his tears, the stars and sea breeze", wrote an author long ago about the splendor of this most beautiful and preserved ecological corner of the modern world. Long beaches, rocky mountains within reach of the sea, fervent summers, untouched nature and unique city monuments have turned the vacations of many travelers into an exceptionally beautiful dream. It is often said that most travelers by chance stumble across the Adriatic. Every other visit discovers more of the diversity, blessedness and hospitality of this land. It would seem that we are not objective to those who have not visited this jewel of the Mediterranean. The only way to prove our objectivity is through ones own experience of the sea with its thousands islands. Croatia covers an area of 56538 km2, and its territorial waters cover 31900 km2. The coastline including the islands is 5740 km long. According to the latest census, Croatia has a population of 4.8 million. More than 78% are ethnic Croats and Roman Catholicism is the prevalent religion (76.5 % of all inhabitants are Roman Catholics). The official language is Croatian, written in the Roman script. In the northern regions, the way of life is typically Central European, Whereas the South is Mediterranean. Although there was an independent Croatian principality and Kingdom from the 9th to the 12th century, today's Croatia is one of the newest states in Europe. It adopted its constitution on 22nd December 1990, and was recognized internationally on 15th January 1992. The international recognition of its sovereignty and its acceptance into the membership of the UN in 1992 marked the end of a crucial period in the establishment of Croatia as a new state in the European and world community. After the collapse of the communist regime in the democratic elections in the spring of 1990, Croatia became a parliamentary democracy, with a political system based on human rights, the rule of law, minority rights, private property, private enterprise and a free market economy, social justice and political freedom. its legal system conforms to modern European standards.Croatia is rich in natural resources, and is determined to build its future on services and high technology. Its priority is the utilization of its maritime potential: above all, tourism, shipping and ship building.The capital of Croatia is Zagreb, a city of one million inhabitants, the hub of Croatian culture, education and trade. The cities of Split, Zadar, Osijek and Rijeka also have universities. The unit of Currency is kuna (KN).source: Vela Luka website  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 09 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8380/1/E-Seven-million-tourists-visited-Croatia-from-Jan---August.html  Croatian tourism numbers up 4%ZAGREB - Visitor numbers to Croatia grew 4% in the first eight months of the year as the former Yugoslav republic continued to rebuild its tourism industry from the ashes of the Balkan wars in the 1990s.  The Tourism Board said more than seven million tourists visited the country from January to August, 4% more than in the same period in 2003. Most of the visitors were Germans, Italians, Slovenians and Czechs, it added.During the same period there were 40.4 million overnight stays, a rise of 1% over the same time last year. Croatia is hoping tourism revenues this year will rise 7% to $8.5 billion. Croatia's economy was hard-hit by the 1991-95 war of independence from the former Yugoslavia. Tourism, a vital revenue earner for Croatia, has recently recovered to pre-war levels. AFP http://www.bday.co.za/bday/content/direct/1,3523,1700408-6078-0,00.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 09 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8384/1/E-Tom-Cruise-delights-Croatians-in-Dubrovnik.html  Tom delights Croatians From correspondents in Dubrovnik, Croatia07sep04SOME visitors to the ancient Croatian city of Dubrovnik this week brought back an unexpected souvenir: a photo with Tom Cruise, who came for a brief visit after promoting a new movie at the Venice Film Festival.Cruise told reporters he was "fascinated" with Dubrovnik, a picturesque southern coastal city, whose ancient walls, fortresses and churches have attracted tourists for decades. "I'll certainly be back," he was quoted by saying by Tuesday daily newspapers.He toured the city and the nearby wooded island of Mljet, almost unnoticed. When reporters spotted him, sitting by the monument of Dubrovnik's famous poet, Ivan Gundulic, he briefly spoke to them, signed autographs and posed for a few photos He agreed to be photographed with a couple of tourists, then slipped away. Several Croatian newspapers published a photo of Cruise with two female tourists, reportedly from the United States. Cruise, who was accompanied by his mother, came two days after promoting his new movie, Collateral, at the film festival in neighbouring Italy. He left Croatia earlier today. http://www.themercury.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,5936,10701172%255E10431,00.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 08 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8383/1/E-Tourist-Tom-Cruise-thrills-with-Croatian-surprise.html  Tourist Tom thrills with Croatian surprise 08/09/2004 - 10:52:13Tom Cruise thrilled fans in Dubrovnik, Croatia, over the Labor Day weekend by spending time site-seeing in the ancient city.The movie star took some rare time off after cancelling plans to premiere his new movie Collateral in Moscow, Russia, out of sensitivity to last week's hostage crisis in Beslan, which left hundreds dead.And he used his downtime to visit one of his favourite cities.When he was spotted by a local journalist and asked about his reasons for being in Dubrovnik, Cruise said he found the city "fascinating" and insisted: "I'll certainly be back." Cruise was accompanied by his mother and took the opportunity to visit Croatia two days after promoting Collateral at the Venice film festival.http://breakingnews.iol.ie/entertainment/story.asp?j=116883948&p=yy6884654   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 08 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8386/1/E-Where-the-villa-living-is-easy.html  Where the villa living is easyThe newly built Casteletto Parenzana was finished only in June but has already proved popular with British guests  August 14, 2004 The TimesAnnabelle Thorpe finds quality self-catering properties all the rage on Croatia’s Istrian peninsulaIT’S said of Istria, the peninsula that hangs from Croatia’s northernmost tip, that in every home there is a drawer containing seven flags. The story goes that each time a different army invaded, residents would simply hang out the appropriate flag. Not surprising in a region that has changed hands more times than a used Mercedes; from the Germans to the Venetians to the Austrians to the French, to the Austrians again, on to the Italians then finally into Tito’s Yugoslavia. It wrenched itself free of the lot of them, and was reborn as part of the newly formed Croatia in 1991. Istria was desirable because of its ports — Porec, Pula and Rovinj — but inland it was usually dismissed as a rump of land with not much to offer. We Brits have re-embraced parts of Croatia — the Dalmatian coast and Dubrovnik, and the islands of Brac and Hvar — but Istria isn’t seeing the same surge in visitor numbers. The Germans charged back in, and coastal resorts such as Porec and Rovinj are dominated by German tourism, but more savvy visitors, mostly British, are discovering that inland Istria combines a landscape of lush green hills and honey-coloured hilltop towns reminiscent of Umbria, and with the kind of tranquillity you’d only find in Tuscany on a rainy day in February. Villas, dilapidated cottages, crumbling farmhouses; all are changing hands, as British buyers compete with returning Croatians to own their own piece of the Istrian idyll. The Croatian diaspora — some 4.5 million, the same number as the country’s indigenous population — stretches as far as Canada and Australia, and many Istrians are now returning to set up businesses in the tourism sector. “It is wonderful to be home,” says Dorina Vlakancic, who has returned with her husband after 15 years in the UK. Their newly built villa, Casteletto Parenzana, was only finished in June and they have already had their first guests. “There is nowhere else in Europe so peaceful,” says Dorina. “At night we just sit out and watch the stars; although we have been back from England for some time, we still can’t believe the night skies.” Evenings at Parenzana are glorious; the heat of the day fades, the sun slips slowly behind khaki hills and the sky floods fuschia pink. Istrian earth is lush and fertile, and fields of crops stretch between clusters of toffee-coloured cottages. Silent hamlets freckle the countryside; some have only one or two inhabitants, elderly now, sons and lovers long gone, some to the war, some to work on the busy coastal strip. Families who remain make a living from the earth; across the road from Parenzana, a man ploughed his fields while his wife and mother leant together on a battered pitchfork, silently watching the earth turn beneath the fading sun. The verdant hills that roll through Istria are scattered with towns; Venetian Motovun, Groznjan with its artists’ community, Oprtalj with its 17th-century loggia and tiny medieval streets winding up to the peak. The villages may play host to tourist coaches by day, but nothing on the scale of Provence or Tuscany; by late afternoon they have settled back into a peaceful languor, with only the odd quiet bar, serving menestra (an Istrian take on minestrone soup) and cevapcici (meatballs) to locals and a few stray tourists. “Istria is an oasis — rural and unspoilt,” Dino Omrcen told me, as he drove me around the countryside, “and this is rare in the Med now, so people want to buy. These are very exciting times for us, people are making good money, and life is coming back to villages that were dying away.” Dino’s company rents villas, but also helps foreign investors buy, design and restore their properties. “Last year I had ten villas with pools, this year 30, next year we think it will be 60. But this is soft tourism, the numbers are still small. Mass tourism will stay on the coast.” “Soft tourism” is a suitably gentle term for the development taking place in Istria; a wine route has sprung up, truffle-hunting trips are on offer, and most hilltop towns hold festivals in the summer, but all are low-key initiatives; the main attraction is the beauty and simplicity of the region. “We had no idea it would be so gorgeous,” Jane Shirley told me, who was staying in a villa called Captain Morgan’s with her husband, Paul, and four children. “We’ve been to Porec, but it was like any other beach resort. Up here it’s unique; so quiet and everyone in the village so friendly. We chose Istria because it was that bit cheaper than Spain or Italy, but the villa is more luxurious than anything we’ve rented before.” The properties in Istria are a good metaphor for the region; spacious, beautiful, individual, of a far higher standard than you might expect. Istria as a whole is a surprise; “Where are all the battered Fiats?” asked my copilot Ali, as we drove past gleaming BMWs and four-wheel drives. Everywhere felt upbeat, a well-to-do country absorbing tourism into everyday life. There are things Istria doesn’t have: there are few beaches for example. And it’s hard to get the sense of a particular culture. What it does have is tranquillity and an overwhelming sense of contentment. This is a region, and a country, finally at peace. THERE is a handful of individual hotels on the peninsula if self-catering doesn’t appeal. The Villa Angelo D’Oro is in the heart of Venetian Rovinj; a beautiful converted mansion tucked away in one of the pedestrianised streets.This is Rovinj’s best hotel, but what makes it extra special is the walled garden, full of fig trees and geraniums, perfect for the excellent buffet breakfast, or a lazy afternoon with a book. Agroturismo is flourishing in Istria, and the number of small pensions is increasing. One of the best is the Pension Stancija Negricani, a two-storey stone farmhouse dotted with antiques, which has landscaped grounds filled with bougainvillea and geraniums. Traditional Croatian food is available, made from local organic produce. http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,10209-1213972,00.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 03 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8385/1/E-I-would-like-to-ask-you-all-for-your-best-travel-advice.html  I would like to ask you all for your best travel adviceDear Crown Friends,  My husband and I want to make a vacation to Croatia in 2005. We would like to start off in Zagreb and make a road trip all the way down to Dubrovnik stopping all along the way. I would like to ask you all for your best travel advice. In 2003 I asked for your travel advice and everyone gave us such great tips. We visited Hvar and Dubrovnik and had the most amazing time!We will probably make our trip in July. Can you suggest places to stop and see along the way from Zagreb to Dubrovnik? What about places to stay and restaurants to visit? Is it possible to rent an apartment for less than a weeks time during the peak summer months? I am guessing that we will have just about 19 days for this trip.I really enjoyed reading all your emails last time. Hope to hear from you all again soon!Please send emails to patandnan@prodigy.net  Thank you very much!Nancy De Waard from Los Angeles, California  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 02 Sep 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8387/1/E-An-Old-Pearl-Gets-A-New-Shine.html  An Old Pearl Gets DUBROVNIK {the riviera, circa 1960} A New Shine Croatia's jewel on the Adriatic is becoming Europe's trendiest tourist destination. Turning back the clock on St. Tropezby ANDREW PURVISPosted 12:34BST, Sunday, August 22, 2004 | Print | Subscribe The first view most of the world had of Dubrovnik was of its red-tiled roofs disappearing behind clouds of black smoke during shelling by Serb and Montenegrin artillery in the fall of 1991. The threat to this walled medieval city on the Dalmatian coast, with its Renaissance palaces, Titian masterpieces and lemon-scented cloisters, brought home the pointlessness and savagery of the Balkan wars. Carla del Ponte, chief prosecutor at the International War Crimes Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia, recalls being horrified by the attack. "I could not believe," she says, "that someone — anyone — could have fired a single shot or shell or mortar anywhere in its vicinity."If she went back now, Del Ponte might have a hard time believing anybody did shoot. Not only has the Croatian city survived the bombardment, it has been repaired so meticulously that the only visual reminder of those terrible months is a patchwork of bright orange tiles where faded roofing splintered by the shelling has been replaced. Residents have repainted their homes, filled the bullet holes in their walls, and paved over craters in the streets. Walk down the Stradun, Dubrovnik's polished-limestone pedestrian thoroughfare, lined with open-air cafés and designer shops, and you wouldn't know that it was only a few years ago covered by the fog of war. "We have arisen from the ashes," says Maja Milovcic of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board.That's great news for tourists as well as locals. In the prewar years, Dubrovnik was known to the European cognoscenti as a low-cost alternative to the ritzy Riviera. Now, its charms are fast becoming an open secret. Flights arrive almost daily from Madrid, Paris, Rome and Vienna, together with budget services from Bratislava, London Gatwick and Dublin. In all, more than 320,000 foreigners holidayed in Dubrovnik (pop. 37,000) last year, up from 250,000 in 2002. "Dubrovnik is a jewel," says Ed Serotta, a Viennese historian and frequent visitor. He recommends a stroll on the 2-km medieval wall encircling the city: on one side is a bird's eye view of white stone architectural treasures and on the other a panorama of unspoiled coastline and open sea. "It will make your jaw drop," Serotta says.Dubrovnik has had that effect on visitors for more than a millennium. Byzantine Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus wrote of "the city ... on the cliffs" to his son in the 10th century. The poet Lord Byron called it "the Pearl of the Adriatic" in the early 19th century. In the early 1930s, the British King Edward and Wallis Simpson sunbathed naked on a nearby island. (The current crop of celebrities drawn to the city include Steven Spielberg, Sharon Stone and John Malkovich.) Whether or not you're famous, Dubrovnik promises fine swimming in sheltered coves, sweet shellfish and the quiet pleasures of nearby islands. On Lopud and Sipan, picnickers stroll side by side with amateur archaeologists looking for Greek and Roman ruins. On Lokrum, the pine-covered outcropping that faces the old town, peacocks strut among the ruins of an abandoned monastery and bathers lounge in rock pools warmed by the Mediterranean sun. But perhaps the best moments are at the end of the day, as the sun sets behind the roofs of the old town, and an evening meal of fresh fish and white wine beckons. Let the glitterati have their St. Tropez. Dubrovnik does quite nicely, indeed.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 30 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8388/1/E-Celebrity-sets-sail-for-enchanted-ports-of-call.html  Arnold, Celebrity Tempt the Imagination August 25, 2004 By David Gianatasio A TV spot, "The Lights," broke last week during NBC's Summer Olympics coverage, showing residents of the port town of Dubrovnik, Croatia, heading to the edge of the sea as lights approach from a Celebrity ship.Celebrity sets sail for enchanted ports of call. BOSTON Havas' Arnold has unveiled an effort touting Celebrity Cruises partnership with Cirque du Soleil. The avant-garde circus troop will stage performances on select Celebrity ships, which are portrayed as "Soon departing for the unimaginable" in print and TV efforts from the Boston-based shop.The first of three print ads launches in the Aug. 30 issue of The New Yorker. The execution shows a trapeze hanging above an otherwise empty ocean, with reddish light blazing on a distant shore. "Sailings are limited. Possibilities, quite the opposite," the text says. Print will also run in Conde Nast Traveler, Gourmet, Travel & Leisure and elsewhere.A TV spot, "The Lights," broke last week during NBC's Summer Olympics coverage, showing residents of the port town of Dubrovnik,Croatia, heading to the edge of the sea as lights approach from a Celebrity ship.The campaign continues the two-year-old tagline, "A true departure.""The innovative approach taken by Cirque du Soleil to break the conventions of entertainment immediately made us recognize their ability to take the cruise experience to a whole new level," said Steven Hancock, evp of marketing at the Miami-based client. Celebrity spent nearly $20 million on ads last year and $15 million during the first six months of 2004, per Nielsen Monitor-Plus.http://www.adweek.com/aw/regional/new_england/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1000618140  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 25 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8389/1/E-Croatia-is-Hot-Stuff-on-Med-Cruises-This-Summer.html  Croatia is Hot Stuff on Med Cruises This SummerDestinations: Dubrovnik Activities: Beach, Cruise Author: Heidi SarnaMay 27, 2004 -- Who doesn't grow giddy at the thought of a trip to Europe? History, culture, fashion, food -- all these things keep us coming back year after year. Love affair aside, who wouldn't appreciate a new twist thrown into the standard Italy and Greece cruise mix. Just how many times do you want to take the three-hour bus ride to Florence from the port of Livorno? Can you really face the crowds at Lindos (the impressive ruins of an Acropolis in Rhodes) one more time? Maybe you're just plain itching to one-up your know-it-all neighbor with tales of the hottest new European destination since the wall came down...Well, hot, it certainly is, but new? Hardly. Croatia is as old as the hills. It's just that it was off limits for most of the 90s due to the Balkans war (pre-1991, Croatia was part of Yugoslavia). The fighting ended a few years ago, and it's safe to say that the Dalmatian Coast is now firmly back on the tourist map. It's hopping like it was for years before the war, drawing Europeans who appreciate its beauty, beaches, history, culture and affordability."I've haven't been as excited about a destination in 20 years," says David Vass, Director of Land Programs & Hotel Development for Seadream Yacht Club. He should know, during his career Vass has traveled to more than 170 countries to check out potential ports of call, combing countless towns, villages and cities for interesting things to see and do.A place like Croatia makes that job easy. Roman ruins and medieval villages are as common here as heather in the Lake District. The country's long rugged island-dotted coastline covers practically the entire eastern seaboard of the Adriatic, and there's no shortage of ancient towns encircled by picturesque crumbling walls. Vineyards, olive groves and beaches complete a montage of landscapes right out of central casting.Itineraries may include calls on Korcula, the birthplace of Marco Polo; Pula, known for its Roman amphitheater; Losinj, for its long 18-mile beach; Rovinj, a medieval fishing village; Hvar, supremely picturesque with its vineyards and rolling hills; and Dubrovnik, the ancient walled city that sits high above a beautiful harbor. An ideal cruising destination, there's no doubt.Not the least of Croatia's appealing virtues is its affordability. Among the best bargains in Europe, the dollar and Euro still go a long way here. Unlike most of the continent, Croatia isn't yet part of the European Union. That means, Vass points out, that shore excursions can be dramatically cheaper than in other European ports, like Italy.With all it has going for it, it's no surprise that nearly every line worth its weight in bingo chips and Baked Alaska is including calls to Croatia this summer on Mediterranean itineraries, often embarking from and/or ending up in Venice. Not a bad deal.Small-ship lines focus itineraries on typically four to five Croatian ports, and are the best way to skirt the crowds and slip into harbors and small villages. They'll show you more of Croatia than the megas could ever hope to. The best include SeaDream Yacht Club (www.seadreamyachtclub.com), whose 110-passenger ultra-luxe yachts are heaven on earth with free-flowing champagne and fun diversions like ski jets and mountain bikes (carried aboard and complimentary). Star Clippers' (www.starclippers.com) 227-passenger Royal Clipper is a lovely fully-rigged square-sail clipper, while Windstar's (www.windstarcruises.com) fleet includes the 308-passenger five-masted Wind Surf, a modern-style yacht with electronically operated sails. Slightly larger, ultra-luxe lines hitting Croatia this summer include all-inclusive Silversea (www.silverseacruises.com) and Seabourn (www.seabourn.com), plus Radisson (www.rssc.com) and Crystal (www.crystal.com), who offer a similarly elegant onboard vibe on their somewhat larger ships. The biggest, mostly 2,000-plus mega-ship lines visiting the Croatian coast this year -- typically just Dubrovnik -- include Royal Caribbean (www.royalcaribbean.com), Celebrity (www.celebritycruises.com), Holland America (www.hollandamerica.com), Princess (www.princesscruises.com), and Cunard (www.cunard.com).Have you cruise into Croatia? We would love to read your Trip Report. Just click over to our Croatia Message Boards and tell us all about it.http://www.frommers.com/activities/cruise/article.cfm?articleid=2008&destid=CRUISE   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 22 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8390/1/E-A-Croatian-boy-is-silhouetted-as-he-jumps-in-the-sea-in-Split-Croatia.html  A Croatian boy is silhouetted as he jumps in the sea in Split, Croatia, August 13, 2004. The Croatian part of the Adriatic Sea is a popular holiday destination for European tourists. REUTERS/Matko Biljak   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Fri, 13 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8394/1/E-Fine-Living-Your-Private-Island---Hvar.html  Your Private Island Hvar on TV For those that have Fine Living on their cable boxes or satellite dishes,you might want to tune into the show "Your Private Island" which has anepisode featuring the island of Hvar. All information, including air timesis below.http://www.fineliving.com/fine/your_private_island/episode/0,1663,FINE_1637_33825,00.htmlYour Private IslandEpisode FLYPI-407AIR TIMES:• August 08, 2004 9:00 AM EST• August 09, 2004 3:30 PM EST• August 12, 2004 8:00 PM EST• August 12, 2004 11:00 PM EST• August 13, 2004 3:30 PM ESTIsland of Hvar, Croatia (407)Explore a seaside hideaway, Villa Floriana, on a Croatian island in theAdriatic Sea called Hvar. On the journey in, visit the port town of Split onCroatia's Dalmatian Coast, a cobblestone historical jewel protected byUNESCO.A short ferry ride away is Hvar, where you can swim in the villa's privatebay, hike the endless and surprising trails and chase the island's wildsheep, known as mouflon. All the while, immerse yourself in rich andcolorful history and drink in the breathtaking landscapesHvar, CroatiaYour Private Island : Episode FLYPI-407 -- More Projects »* Croatia is surprisingly close to Italy. Start your trip by spending a fewdays in Rome.* Flights leave regularly from Rome to Split. You'll get there in just twohours.* Hvar is 42 miles long and six miles at its widest point.* There are several hotels on the island. Villa Floriana provides the mostprivacy and the five-bedroom property comes with staff, boat and Jeep.* There are more than 300 wild mouflons on the property - the small, wildEuropean sheep native to Sardinia and Corsica.* The Hvar Cathedral was built in the 15th century.* The fortress was built in the 16th century and admission is only a fewdollars per person.* Hvar receives 2,724 hours of sunshine a year, more than any other place inthe country.ResourcesVladi Private Islands (booking for Villa Floriana)902-423-3202 (Canadian office)www.vladi-private-islands.deThe villa is on 1,500 wooded acres and rented in its entirety for about$11,000-$18,000 per week, depending on the season.Croatian National Tourist Board800-829-4416www.croatia.hrAlitalia, Italian airline800-223-5730www.alitaliausa.comCroatia Airlineswww.croatiaairlines.hrJadrolinija, ferry rides from Split to Hvarwww.jadrolinija.hrpassdept_e@jadrolinija.hrCroNetwork: The Croatian-American Organization for Young Professionals.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 09 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8393/1/E-Sail-into-the-sun-n-sand.html  Sail into the sun 'n' sand Uday K. Chakraborty Repose in languorous joy and experience divine bliss at Porec. Its blue-green lagoons and balmy Mediterranean ambience combine with the region's ancient charm to revive and rejuvenate.  A view of St Nikola Island from the Marina.  Long before Christ, the Illyrian tribes chose the hills around Porec as their place of settlement. And it was not coincidence that more than 2,000 years ago, Roman soldiers built their fortified colony, Parentium, here. It was even less accidental that on the coast near Porec, beautiful villas were erected - the villa rustica described by the Roman historian Kasider as the `jewels of a young girl's diadem'. The villas housed the patricians, who led the life of gods, surrounded by sea, sun, wine and olives. That's the divine bliss and repose you can enjoy in Porec and in the blue-and-green lagoons that exist even today. The only invaders are the high-heeled tourists from all over Europe. What attracts them is the heady combination of natural beauty, clean waters of the deep blue sea, lush greenery, wonderful Mediterranean climate and the historical ambience. Porec is the jewel in the touristy crown of the Istrian Peninsula, which is one of the spectacularly endowed regions of the Croatian Adriatic. Porec ushered in organised tourism during the turn of the 19th century. First, came the duchesses and dukes of Austria and, later, the building of the Hotel Riviera in 1910 set off tourism in full earnest. Roman urban character survives in this Mediterranean town, especially in the names of its main streets - Decumanus and Cardo Maximus. Roman churches and houses, medieval walls and round towers, and the Gothic and baroque houses are all witness to the growth of Porec through the centuries. The old city of Porec is a tourist magnet, with its historical monuments and stone-paved streets dating back to the Roman era. The Euphrasian Basilica is an early Christian cathedral. But some of the other monuments date back by two millennia. The Decumanus forms the heart of Porec. This historic Roman street with cobblestones polished over centuries, is now a lively shopping area abounding in boutiques, galleries, cafes and restaurants. Against the historical backdrop of the old town, tourists wander about, leisurely taking in the sights. The Decumanus and the romantic, Romanesque sidestreets are a restorer's delight. Venetian palaces and ruins of temples to the Roman gods, Neptune and Mars, rub shoulders with the old city walls and the pentagonal and round towers; the Barco Sincic palace beckons with its museum of local history. With its mosaics of precious stones and mother-of-pearl, the Euphrasius Basilica from the Byzantine period is easily the grand highlight of the old town. UNESCO declared the basilica and parts of the old town as world cultural heritage sites in 1997. The basilica's bell tower affords a magnificent view of the old town and its harbour.Ancient Decumanus is also a perfect promenade during summer. Even if you haven't planned anything, the place has no dearth of entertainment - jazz in the ancient stone collection garden or a classical music concert in the basilica, summer cocktails on the ancient Marafor Square; even the massive crowds that swarm by make a charming spectacle. At times, the street's the stage for summer performances. The old city carries with it a distinctive charm because everything about it is both modern and ancient. The harbour promenade, the Riva, is ideal for a relaxing stroll. There is always something going on here; you can either revel in the everyday sight of fishermen bringing in their catch or watch yachts swaying peacefully in the spacious marina harbour. The Riva is where the tourist boats embark on their exploration of the Istrian Adriatic, taking in the idyllic fishing villages and spectacular islands. Small ferries make regular crossings to the island of St Nikola, home to one of the oldest lighthouses of the Adriatic. There is also a neoclassical villa and several beach resorts facing the magnificent old city of Porec from across the sea. The 35-km long Riviera's varied coastline - with its peninsulas, fishing villages and islands - makes a perfect holiday setting. In the afternoons, the cafes fill up with people while the harbour promenade becomes a hive of activity in the evenings. Here restaurants dish out local delicacies to go with the famous Malvazia white wine; artists and entertainers fascinate their audiences and you are certain to find the perfect souvenir at one of the many quaint market stalls. While in Porec, don't miss out on the beauty of inland Istria, which abounds in small towns and medieval castles. This is a world where there are no roads - you either walk or ride a bike to your destination. No less amazing is the Porec underworld, which comes to life in the Berendin Cave rich in stalactites and stalagmites. But no matter where you go, you always return to the bay area to watch the sun gradually set against the backdrop of the panoramic sea and the old city. How to get there: The nearest international airports are Zagreb, Vienna and Milan. One could also cross the Adriatic from Venice by fast ship and reach Porec in two hours. The nearest Euro rail station is Pula. Visa regulations: If you already have a Schenegen visa, you can get your visa in a day's time. Otherwise it takes a little longer. Where to stay: There are both high-end and budget hotels. When to visit: The best period is during April, May, September and October. Avoid peak season during June and August.   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 08 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8392/1/E-The-sun-sets-over-a-small-fishing-boat-sailing-out.html   The sun sets over a small fishing boat sailing out from Sparadici, a village near Sibenik on Croatia's Adriatic coast, August 8, 2004. Unlike the dwindling fishing industry, tourism is Croatia's main hard currency earner, thanks to its pristine nature and geographic proximity to most European countries. REUTERS/Nikola Solic   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 08 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8391/1/E-The-worlds-deepest-subterranean-vertical-drop-found-in-Croatia.html  The world's deepest subterranean vertical drop found in CroatiaCave explorers find deepest subterranean dropAugust 10, 2004Cave explorers have discovered a pit inside a mountain range in central Croatia believed to have the world's deepest subterranean vertical drop, at over 500 metres. The cave, in Croatia's mountainous Velebit region, has a steady, weaving drop of 62 metres before it takes a direct vertical plunge of 516 metres through the ground, said Ana Sutlovic Baksic, a researcher at the Velebit Speleological Society. The cave's widest stretch is about 30 metres. "We have even bigger caves in Croatia, but according to available data, this cave has the world's deepest vertical drop," Sutlovic Baksic said. At the foot of the Velebit cave are small ponds and streams, including one of the largest known colonies of subterranean leeches, Sutlovic Baksic said. It is located in the Rozanski Hip National Park reserve in the rocky Velebit mountain range in central Croatia. The pit was discovered by a team of explorers from around the country. The Voronya Cave in Georgia's West Caucasus has the world's deepest cavern, measuring 1710 metres. But the pit discovered in Croatia is thought to have the largest underground vertical drop. AdvertisementAdvertisementCroatia, which is rich in natural wonders, is home to two of the world's 20 deepest caves. The Velebit region is Croatia's largest mountain range, attracting speleologists, botanists and hikers from around the world. Much of the rugged area remains untouched, and scientific expeditions over its vast expanse covered by rare flora and fauna have been ongoing for years. AP http://www.smh.com.au/articles/2004/08/09/1092022411252.html?oneclick=true  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Sun, 08 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8395/1/E-Croatia-challenge.html  Croatia challengeExplorer trio head east for Scouts awardAdventurous Scouts are preparing for an expedition to Croatia in a bid to recieve one of the most challenging awards available.The three Explorer Scouts from Upper Caldecote are set for the challenge of a lifetime as they aim for their Explorer Belt, which encourages young people to gain a deeper understanding of another country.Rachel Randle, 22, of Biggleswade Road will be leading Richard Holiday, 18, of Shakespeare Drive and Allan Robertson-Cowley, 17, of Dean Way as they head off next month to trek around 160 km.Rachel said: "I can't wait. It is going to be exhausting but it should be good fun."The group will have to complete a major project during the expedition, keep a diary of their travels and give a presentation when they return.The project will see them investigating the post war development of the region and the effect on tourism and they hope to get as many first hand accounts as possible.Their route will take them through major tourist centres and quiet rural areas to compare the level of development, and they also hope to meet local dignitaries to discover their views on development and hopes for the future.For the full story see the July 30 edition of the Chronicle.05 August 2004http://www.biggleswadetoday.co.uk/ViewArticle2.aspx?SectionID=182&ArticleID=831761   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Thu, 05 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8396/1/E-Brijuni---one-of-worlds-sexiest-Islands.html   Brijuni - one of world's sexiest IslandsTravel Feature World's Sexiest Islands Christina Valhouli www.FORBES.comThe Adriatic Coast of Croatia is fast becoming one of the most popularsailing routes in Europe. The islands offer everything the SouthernMediterranean does--balmy weather, great food and beaches--but without thecrowds. Any sailing trip must include a stop at the Brijuni Islands (alsoknown as the Brioni Islands), the former summer residences of PresidentTito, which have only recently been open to the public. Prince Ernst ofHanover is rumored to have invested here, and Sharon Stone and ClintEastwood have visited. The Brijuni archipelago boasts a national park,archaeological sites dating back to prehistoric times and gorgeous beaches.The largest island, Veli Brijun, has a safari park with zebra and camels.The best way to visit the Brijuni Islands is by chartered yacht, or youcould try the Hotel Neptun, where rates start at 102 euros ($122).http://www.forbes.com/2004/08/05/cx_cv_0805feat.html   letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Wed, 04 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8400/1/E-Beautiful-and-unspoilt-country-full-of-history-kindness-and-very-tall-men.html  Croatia, we agreed, is a stunningly beautiful and unspoilt country, full of history, kindness and very tall men.Back from the brink Christina Patterson and her mother were thankful to survive the precipitous drive to their Croatian villa. Luckily there was light at the end of the tunnel, an idyllic spot and a handsome man31 July 2004Four hours after we arrived in Croatia, my mother nearly had a heart attack. "We'll have to go somewhere else," she declared firmly, "we can't stay here." I looked out at the sparkling sea - vivid turquoise by the rocks, a deep, hypnotic blue further out - and back at my mother's ashen face, and wondered what to do.It had started so well. After our crack-of-dawn flight to Dubrovnik we emerged, blinking, into brilliant sunshine and a huge blue sky. The airport was like Toy Town: a little patch of concrete surrounded by rolling hills and trees. In continental Europe, the trees are different. The greens are darker and they seem to point towards the sky or hover, like puffy green clouds, over the land beneath. They make me think of fairy tales.After picking up our hire car we were soon speeding past those magical trees, through those cucumber-green hills and along a vast expanse of amethyst sea. The road was cut into the rock and offered sudden, breathtaking vistas of the villages and sea below. It snaked into heart-stopping bends, but it was Sunday morning and the roads were mercifully clear.An hour later, in a café with views over the valley, we toasted our holiday with espresso. We had arrived safely. The sun was shining. We would potter around a few sites, but mostly we would lie in the sun and admire the beauty. I would continue to write the family history I'd started, and my mother would chip in with stories. We would bond over G&Ts on the terrace as the sun set.Two hours later, we were on the Peljesac peninsula. We had driven through Ston, noted for its oyster beds, and were edging our way towards the village of Potomje. "Turn left towards the factories and drive straight till you pass through the stone-made tunnel," said our directions. "Be aware of the traffic from the opposite direction, because the tunnel is quite narrow." It was indeed quite narrow, and also pitch black. With the headlights on full beam it was like being in some kind of grotto - a grotto where a sudden flash of lights might herald disaster.On the other side, the sunlight was dazzling and so were the views. We were on the edge of a cliff, on the edge of the world. Somewhere in the distance, by the rocks and the sea, was our villa. It was an awfully long way down. "Please slow down," my mother begged as we inched our way around another hairpin bend. Moments later, we met a car. The road was wide enough for only one and we were on the outside. Somehow, miraculously, the oncoming vehicle reversed into a tiny dip in the rocks and somehow, miraculously, I manoeuvred past. I glanced over at my mother, who was clutching at her heart.The road got even narrower as we crawled our way down the mountain. Some of the hairpins seemed too narrow for even one car. Suddenly, we saw a sign to our villa, Tabo, which involved a 320-degree turn. I drove on to a little patch of concrete, fumbled with the reverse and doubled back onto the steepest drive I have ever seen. One final hairpin and we were there.My mother was crying. I was shaking. We stared grimly down at the beautiful villa, the garden full of olive and lemon trees, the pool and terrace overlooking a sea that was like glass. "We can't stay," sobbed my mother, who has weathered numerous family tragedies with less visible grief. "We'll have to find somewhere else. But how will we get out?" I nodded sadly. We were prisoners in paradise.Ante Radovic, our genial and extremely handsome host who had built both the villa and the pool, was reassuring. His 40 years at sea had taught him that most problems can be solved. "It will be fine!" he boomed, seizing my mother's suitcase. "I will show you a better road! It will be fine. You'll see." Ante led us down to the steps to an airy apartment where every room had a view down to the sea. The terrace was the size of a restaurant. The pool was for our use only. My mother smiled politely, but I could see the panic in her eyes. We had no food and no way of getting any. Perhaps, she whispered, we could pay Ante to go and buy us some?Ante had, in fact, laid out a tray of cold meats and cheese and a fresh loaf of bread. He brought us wine from his brother's vineyard. After lunch, he would take us to the good road. Everything would be fine. But first, could I please move my car? He needed the driveway, so could I just move it onto that concrete strip over the garage? I nodded and smiled. Infused with his cheery optimism, I tripped off with the keys.Moments later, I was perched on the edge of a precipice. I had mastered the reverse, but my foot was shaking. If it slipped, I would be dead. For the first time in my life, I understood the phrase "paralysed with fear". I couldn't get into the space and I couldn't turn the car. Instead, I turned the steering wheel on full lock and went up the drive, back around the hairpin bend and back onto the road that led into the village. I pulled into a clearing with some tables and chairs. Perhaps this was the restaurant that was "only open at high season". A plump man bustled out of the kitchen and smiled. Were they open? Yes. Hallelujah! Could I leave the car here? Could I, in fact, leave it all week? We would, I promised, eat there every night. Yes, he said, with a warmth that tried to hide his bewilderment. Yes, if that's what I wanted. Yes, I replied, nodding hysterically, yes, thank you, it was what I wanted.Ante's good road was slightly better than the bad one. At least it was paved and he was driving. I sat in the front while my mother cowered in the back, trying not to look at the inches that separated us from the rocks below. The views were spectacular, a surreal mix of sea and mountain - as if a magician had conjured up a Mediterranean and an Alpine landscape and somehow jumbled them up together.In Trstenik, a tiny village on a harbour, we stopped at a café. My mother and Ante both had coffee and I had a cold beer. "I have never yet let a woman pay for a drink," he thundered when the bill came. "And I am 70!" My mother is 69. They made, I couldn't help thinking, a handsome pair. Ante took the bad route back, the one that twisted back to the main road from Ston, onto Potomje and through the tunnel. My mother shut her eyes.Back at the apartment, we clinked glasses, sipped our G&Ts and nibbled the cashew nuts my mother had packed. Things were looking up. Dinner was only a short walk away and in the morning Ante would take me to Potomje to buy some food. That night, as the sky changed from blue to pink to black, we picked the bones out of the local catch of the day, a deliciously fresh sea bream.In the village the next morning, Ante knew everyone. He stopped the car in the tunnel to clasp the hand of an old man and pass him a cigarette. "My cousin!" he announced before leading me to the tiny shop that was run by his sister. I piled my basket high with carrots and cabbage and ham that had passed its sell-by date and shook more hands: Ante's brother-in-law and nephew as well as his sister. Could I, I wondered, buy some of the local wine? "My brother's wine is best!" bellowed Ante, moments before we bumped into him in the street. "Mirka will give us some," he added, as he climbed into the car.Mirka's house was surrounded by vineyards, stretching out to the mountains ahead. She disappeared for a few minutes, re-emerged with a litre of excellent red wine and beckoned us in. Sitting on Mirka's balcony, sipping strong, sweet coffee and eating her stupendous home-made mille-feuilles, I nodded and smiled. She could speak no English and I had learnt only huala (thank you), which I said a lot. The huge gardens around us were packed with produce - onions, potatoes, tomatoes, green beans - and birds were singing in the lemon trees.After a hearty lunch, in which carrots and cabbage featured prominently, my mother and I settled down for a lazy afternoon reading and writing by the pool. That night, at the restaurant, we were the only customers. The family who ran it were all hunched around a little television that they'd rigged up outside to watch the football. We were eating sea bass when Croatia scored. When we left, they were still in the lead.The following morning, we left the house at seven and trudged up to the restaurant to fetch the car. We were off to Mljet, an island that's now a national park, and the ferry from Trstenik was leaving at eight. On the journey from one beautiful harbour to another we studied the guide book. Mljet was, we were told, used by the Romans as a place of exile and was briefly owned by the kings of Bosnia, who sold it to Dubrovnik in 1333. According to legend, it's where Odysseus holed up with Calypso.When we drove off the ferry we could see why. The coast around Villa Tabo was stunning, but this was something else. The whole island is covered in forest and has two salt water lakes of such piercing turquoise that it's hard to believe they're real. The forest - of Aleppo pines, cypress and holm oaks - is full of butterflies. We got a ferry to the tiny island in the big lake and had coffee and waffles and apple strudel in the shadow of the monastery of St Mary. It was, I decided, my duty as a journalist to do some intensive research on Croatian cakes. They are, in fact, a little lumpen, but don't let that deter you. There's little in life as pleasant as coffee and waffles in the sunshine as you gaze down at a glassy, azure sea. In the end, it proved irresistible. I had assumed (after dipping my toe in the sea at Trstenik) that the water would be too cold and had left my swimsuit behind. I swam in my underwear and dried myself with my dress. The mild discomfort that followed was worth it.On the Thursday, after another demanding day reading and writing by the pool, we set off for Orebic, where you can get the ferry to Korcula. First inhabited by the Greeks, Korcula was fought over by Venice and the Croat kings and later by the Genoese and Turks. The ice-cream was delicious (a concoction of nuts and cherries in honour of Marco Polo, whose house on the island you can visit). We went to the cathedral of St Mark, the Gothic church of St Peter and the civic museum, which houses an eclectic array of icons, pictures and pots, as well as documents on the island's seafaring history. And then, in a restaurant by the water's edge, we ate seafood risotto. Only the journey back dented our joy. On the road down from the tunnel we met a car that I couldn't get past. "Can I help you?" said the kind Croatian with a worried smile. "Yes," I said, handing him my keys. We got out of our car and watched him move it. He waved cheerily as we climbed back in.Two days later, after a final lazy day at the villa, we packed our bags and waved goodbye to Ante and to the Villa Tabo. "I'd need a helicopter to come back," my mother announced happily as we left the treacherous track behind. We were spending our final night in Dubrovnik, to the south, at the four-star Excelsior.Dubrovnik was even more beautiful than I had imagined, a gorgeous cluster of honey-coloured buildings, rich in history. We walked along the city walls, visited the Franciscan monastery with its ancient pharmacy, the cathedral and its treasury, the synagogue and the Rector's Palace. It was only in the Sponza Palace that recent history reared its head. Mostly, you miss it. Only the new tiles and stones are testament to man's inhumanity to man and his capacity, afterwards, to paper over the cracks. Off the courtyard of the Sponza there's a room lined with black-and-white photos of the young men who fought and died in the war that tore Yugoslavia apart. They would now be in their early thirties. Back in the square, we walked straight into an enormous wedding. The bridesmaids arrived first, splendid in lilac silk, and then, to a medley of yells and whistles, the bride. On the steps of the cathedral a man played an accordion and sang. The reception was at our hotel. When we got up for our flight at six the next morning, some of the revellers were still on the terrace.Waiting for our plane in the Toy Town airport we had time to reflect on our trip. Croatia, we agreed, is a stunningly beautiful and unspoilt country, full of history, kindness and very tall men. We had been to a beautiful island. We had seen a monastery and the ruins of a Roman palace. We had eaten exquisite squid and sea bream. We had driven and survived.TRAVELLER'S GUIDEChristina Patterson travelled as a guest of Croatian Affair (020-7385 7111; www.croatianaffair.com). A fortnight's holiday in August at Villa Tabo costs £1,281, based on two sharing, and includes flights from Gatwick, Birmingham, Norwich, Manchester or Edinburgh, transfers/car rental and self-catering accommodation.© 2004 Independent Digital (UK) Ltd http://travel.independent.co.uk/europe/mediterranean/story.jsp?story=546324 letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8399/1/E-I-favor-the-Croatian-wines-particularly-the-native-Teran.html  I favor the Croatian wines, particularly the native TeranSports Illustrated senior writer Paul Zimmerman covers the NFL for the magazine and SI.com. His Power Rankings, "Inside Football" column and Mailbag appear weekly on SI.com. Andrew has sent me seven pages of commentary from these loyal folk, and I am deeply grateful to all parties concerned. Too many to comment on individually, especially after this thing has run as long as the Trans-Canada Highway, as predicted. But I will mention a few:To Erich of Zagreb, Croatia, and yes, I favor the Croatian wines, particularly the native Teran, but not the Cabernet. French grapes for the French, Croatian grapes for the Croatians, I say. Incidentally, the Redhead and I simply loved the Istrian Peninsula when we were there last year. Unfortunately, that's all we were able to see of Croatia.Just a ton of mail to answer this week, I mean a real load of stuff. So if you're thinking of getting through this in the usual minute or two, forget it. It's gonna be a long one.I'll lead with my E-mailer of the Week Award, which goes to a gentleman who asks a question that gets right to the heart of our business, kapow! From Gary Hoover, living in Alabama but originally from Wisconsin -- "What does it mean when a person says something off the record? Are you still allowed to use it? Can you use it if you don't say who said it? Have you as a journalist ever gotten in any trouble with an athlete [or anyone] about confusion over what was said?"OK, gimme room, and if you can hear the cathedral bells in the background, it's because I'm bucking for sainthood.Violating an off-the-record confidence is a risky way to travel, in addition to being nasty. Usually young writers trying to make a name for themselves are guilty of this prime journalistic sin. To me, it just doesn't make sense. You're trading a snappy quote, or statement, or a cheap headline, for the loss of a news source, possibly forever. And then, if the word gets out in the locker room that you're a sneak and not to be trusted, you're losing a lot of sources.Sometimes when something doesn't seem that inflammatory to you, you try to talk it onto the record. Maybe you'll be told that you can use the quote but not if you mention the source's name. That's when you see all these unnamed players or unnamed sources or "source close to management," or close to the water cooler, etc. Sometimes you protect a person on a quote you're sure is off the record, even though you were never told that, and eventually you have the pleasure of seeing something you got first widely quoted in rival outlets, when the quote was repeated.If anything, I've probably been guilty of over-protection. I remember when I was beat man on the Jets, and they were about to play the Redskins, and left tackle Bob Svihus was looking at a picture of Verlon Biggs, the DE he was going to play against. "Handsome devil, isn't he?" Svihus said.I used the quote in a story, but it bugged me all night. I couldn't sleep. So at 2 a.m. (my paper, the Post, came out in the afternoon, which meant that the lock-up was real late) I called Svihus at home. Those were the days when we used to have players' home numbers. I asked him how he felt about my using the quote."I felt OK about it," he said, "but the fact that you're so worried makes me worried, too, and you'd better take it out." Which I did.Some years ago I was doing a piece on a lineman who was a bit of a wild man, but a very nice guy as well. He had a thing going with terminally ill children whom he used to bring to the games. I mean I was really in the guy's corner. So we were out to dinner, he, his wife and I, and somehow he got started on The Fellowship of Christian Athletes. Some major rips. Guys who need a crutch to lean on, who can't do it on their own, etc. The worst thing about it was that he played for a team in the heart of the Bible Belt.So I'm writing everything down in my notebook (I always make it clear that if it's going into the notebook it's on the record, but if they want it off the record, then it won't be written down), and his wife is looking more and more nervous, and finally she asks him, "Do you really want to see this in a national magazine?" And he pauses for a moment and then says, "Yeah, I might as well be controversial in my old age," and keeps on ripping. And I keep on writing.When it comes time to do the piece a few days later, I'm looking at those notes and I'm thinking, "This guy doesn't realize what'll happen to him if these quotes see the light of day, how his life will change." So I kill them all. See, I could have had a nice, nifty headline, and all the wires would have picked up the quotes and I would have been like the guy who broke the John Rocker story, but I just couldn't do it. And I can guess what you're thinking. Oh, if you like a guy, then you protect him, but if you don't like him, then you'll use the nasty stuff to bury him, right? Those are some journalistic principles you've got there. Sorry, but I'm trying to be honest, and that's just the way it is. We're all human.See what I mean? I've answered only one question and written the equivalent of half a regular Mailbag column already. It's a long trail a-winding, folks.A lot of people got fired up about my famous running back twosomes two weeks ago. Hey, read the thing again. I said I was commenting only on the names my e-mailer supplied because I didn't want to spend the rest of the week researching all the great duos in history. So everyone's mentioning people I forgot. Hey, I didn't leave them out. Marc of Margate, N.J., is the guy who came up with the eight twosomes I analyzed for him.Still annoyed? OK, since I'm a good guy, and I'm in a much better mood this week, after all my anti-Bush support came pouring in, I'll get into each of the "How could you neglect?" pairs mentioned. Jack of Bangor, Maine, likes the Cleveland duo of Kevin Mack and Earnest Byner. A good call. They were both over 1,000 yards in 1985. Mack, in his rookie season, gained 1,104 yards, Byner, a second-year man, had 1,002.Ickey Woods and James Brooks of the Bengals, says Bryan of NYC. Another good call. I wouldn't have thought of them, yet in 1988, a Super Bowl year for Cincy, they put together 1,997 yards, a 5.2 average and 23 TDs. Rick of Jackson, Miss., mentioned the 49ers Roger Craig and Tom Rathman, who faced the Bengals in that Super Bowl. Total yardage for 1988, 1929, with Craig accounting for 1,502 of them.Finally Mike of New London, Conn., points to the "glaring omission" (and I'm glaring at you right now) of Bo Jackson and Marcus Allen on the Raiders. Allen's most productive years came before Bo arrived. First off, I had a hell of a time looking Bo up because he wasn't listed. I nearly went blind searching out the B, Jacksons, until I finally stumbled across him in the V's. His first name was Vincent, you see. Anyway, his best season was 1989 (950 yards), but Marcus missed eight games and only accounted for 293 that year. The most yards they had together was 1,411 in 1988. Boy, that year has come up a lot, hasn't it?Tony of Vancouver is intrigued by the whole HB-FB tandem idea, with the halfbacks drawing fire away from the middle, opening it up for the fullbacks, and vice-versa. Yeah, I like it, too -- the precision of a well-blocked running play. And I particularly liked the last real HB-FB running attack the league saw (although some of what they did was without the other guy on the field), which would be Mike Alstott and Warrick Dunn in Tampa Bay. Most productive season -- 1998, when they accounted for 1,872 yards and carried the ball 460 times between them ... uh, I don't mean they actually carried the ball between them ... each one carried it under one arm ... it's just ... you know what I mean. And do you know how many entire teams failed to record 460 rushing plays last year? You don't? Me, neither. Just kidding. Of course I know. I just looked it up. The answer is 20.There's nothing that gets me as psyched as being called "a walking encyclopedia of football history," which is what Jack of Toronto uses as his hook to get me to undertake an obscure research project for him. Jack writes the following: "I remember [world class hurdler Renaldo "Skeets" Nehemiah of the 49ers] getting totally cold-cocked going out for a pass one time, and the guy who did it to him standing over the still warm body, looking down at him, but for the life of me I can't dredge up the name of the tackler. Can you?" They don't call me a walking , or stumbling, encyclopedia for nothing. It was Kenny Johnson, cornerback, Atlanta Falcons, in 1983. There. I hope I've impressed upon all you youngsters out there the value of hard work and dedication.OK, OK. I vaguely remembered the play, but I put through a quick call to the San Francisco Chronicle's Ira Miller, my West Coast encyclopedia. Ira said he'd get back to me and put through a quick call to Randy Cross, who lined up at right guard for the Niners that day. "Kenny Johnson, No. 37, right corner," Randy said, "and Skeets came back and played later." See what it means to have friends in high places.Hal of San Francisco thinks I'm a nice guy. Honest. As a counter-measure to all the George Bush hate mail I've gotten recently he recounted the following story. "I bumped into you along Ocean Beach in San Fran and you had the humbleness to stand and talk to an average fan for 20 minutes about nothing in particular. You even called over the redhead. 'Hey, dear, it's a fan. Come on over.'" Well, as soon as Andrew faxed me that e-mail I clutched it tightly and ran up the 14 stairs to Linda's studio, where she was busy creating another of her lovely photo assemblages. "Honey, do you remember? DO YOU REMEMBER?"Oh boy, did she remember. It's a story she has enjoyed telling. The day she was a celebrity. We had just had lunch at the Cliff House, the Redhead, myself, my daughter, Sarah, and my granddaughter Natasha, who was a year and a half old and in the full flower of her wildness. An average lunch for Natasha. Heaved a few plates, tripped some waitresses, upset a tray or two. So now we're on the way back to the car, which is down the street, Sarah taking the point, Linda pushing the stroller with the baby in it, Z bringing up the rear and fending off the cars whizzing by. I mean a real shleppers' caravan. And here comes Hal. And we yack for a while. And I call Linda and over she comes, pushing the stroller, and Hal says, "Omigod, it's the Redhead, wow!" And, buoyed up by her celebrity status, Linda engages in some lively conversation, with the cars honking and Natasha screaming and trying to twist out of the stroller, and Sarah yelling, "What the hell's going on?" I don't think it was 20 minutes, Hal. More like three or so. But it was memorable.Sgt. Mike of Houston is a soldier in Iraq who doesn't like officers, either, and if this is off the record information, then I'm sorry, but I am protecting him by not using his last name. And let me say, please, without sounding sanctimonious, that my political views have nothing to do with the great respect I feel for our military personnel in the Middle East and the sacrifice they are making. The sarge wants to know how I see the AFC South. Yeah, I guess I have to go with Indy again. I did a self-scouting, and I found that year after year I tend to rank the Colts too low and the Titans too high. The interesting thing is that neither one of them did a damn thing in free agency, actually losing more than they gained, and neither team had a first-round draft choice. Tennessee is still basically blue collar, Indy is flashier. You tend to think of the Titans with the good defense and the Colts lousy in that department, but Indy actually finished one place (11th to 12th) ahead of Tennessee last season. The Titans will still grind it out on the ground, using that as a platform to set up everything else, and I like that big, hog line, and I think Antowain Smith will do OK. Jacksonville is a comer, if you believe in Byron Leftwich, but I don't think he's ready yet. Houston? Show me an offensive line and I'll get interested.Time for Samson Antagonistes to weigh in with his Hall of Fame Greek chorus, and first up, oh my God, not again, is Larry of Fredericksburg, Va., waving a banner that has Art Monk's name on it. I say it, over and over again, why I feel others are more deserving than Art, although he was a valuable player. But it just keeps bouncing off them, like a tennis ball off a wall, and on they come, wave upon wave of them. And it's wearing me down. It's like the H.G.Wells story, The Man Who Could Work Miracles, which opens with Mr. Fotheringay and Toddy Beamish having an argument in the bar of the Long Dragon, and Toddy Beamish conducting a "monotonous but effective" argument consisting of answering every one of Mr. Fotheringay's statements with "So you say." Monotonous but effective. Why isn't Art Monk in? Why isn't Art Monk in? I'll admit, it's getting to me. Air. I need air.Why not Big Daddy Lipscomb? Asks Peter of Ashland, Va. I've already written that he'd get my vote in a minute. It's just that when you're in the Seniors Pool you have to wait in line behind about five million other worthies.Eddie, a Giants fan from Jersey City, N.J., wonders, with amazing objectivity and an eye toward the statistics, whether or not Phil Simms really is Hall of Fame material. I think that Phil was one of those players who was better than his stats, who lifted his game when the pressure rose. He's an iffy choice. Whether or not he would get my vote would depend on whom he was up against."Gene Hickerson," scream Sunny Jim of Brooklyn and Doug of Arlington, Va. (Didn't I just answer you? Wait a minute. Sorry. That was Larry of Fredericksburg). Interesting case here. A few years ago Hickerson, the right guard on the Jimmy Brown Cleveland teams, was a very hot name in the Seniors Committee meetings, and I really believe that if they'd have allowed two candidates to go in each year he would have made it. Then he kind of cooled. Don't know why. There's an ebb and flow to these things. Right now the guard I'm pulling for hardest is Bob Kuechenberg. Then Hickerson.General Hall of Fame question from my man, Fuzz, of Milwaukee. Why not take a year to "clean up" the veterans list once and for all? Just put everyone in who belongs, even if 15 people all are enshrined, and bag the rest? Fuzz, old boy, I would pay big money to be the guy in charge of that operation. How much money? Just name it. Sky's the limit ... 50, 60, 75, Even a dollar. I'll find you 20 great, great neglected players who deserve enshrinement as much as anybody. Unfortunately such a scheme would subject the Hall, the NFL (which runs it), and American sports in general to ridicule from the rest of the world. "I mean, harrumph, 15 people all going in? Where the deuce have they been hiding until now?" etc.And from Fuzz one more thing, as Columbo would say. My thoughts on William Henderson blocking for assorted Green Bay tailbacks through the years. Good man, but more of a position blocker than a real boomer type. But that's what happens to fullbacks. They learn. They start off trying to kill people, then they learn to position themselves.Finally, thanks for your kind remarks, and that goes for just about all the preceding e-mailers, except for the Art Monk guy. Fuzz adds, "Say hello to your lovely wife from all of us Cheeseheads." Just a minute. OK, I said it. "Hello, and are their heads really made of cheese?" says Linda. Phew, it's getting late. All right, I piped that stupid quote. The Redhead isn't home. She's hosting a dinner for the Society of Unfortunate Bald Headed Women of Denville, N.J.Steve of Astoria, N.Y., needs a good primer on football for his wife. My own New Thinking Man's Guide to Football, 1984 edition, will cover it, if she doesn't mind the sexist title. Dated as to the characters, but she'll find the basic information there.James of Sacramento sets me up with a lot of whipped cream...very few writers have your experience ... big fan of redheads ... I respect your views, etc., and then hits me with the snapper. Wants a complete recreation of the Immaculate Reception game. OK, pal, but it's only because my first ever newspaper job was as a schoolboy writer for the Bee. Boring game. Daryle Lamonica wasn't right. Flu or something. Finally he's out of there and Kenny Stabler is in. Nobody's doing anything on that frozen field. Steelers are up, 6-0. I remember saying to the guy next to me in the press box, in one of the few real flashes of insight that I've had during a contest, "Boring games tend to get real exciting toward the end." He yawns. Presto, the Snake scrambles for 30 yards or so and goes in and the Raiders are up, 7-6, with a little over a minute left. Time for one last Steeler drive. I had been on my way down to the locker room, but I stopped and went back to my seat. Art Rooney, the Steelers' owner, wasn't so lucky. He was in the elevator down and missed the Immaculate Reception. The play was over just so quickly ... bang-bang, like that. I remember there was a quick TD signal from the ref, then a big huddle by the officials, and John Madden was all hot on the sidelines, and then I disappeared into the elevator to get down to the locker rooms. I didn't think the play was legal. It looked to me like Frenchy Fuqua touched the ball and Tatum hit him and knocked it loose but never touched it before Franco caught it. But the call didn't bother me because it was such a magnificent play on Franco's part.Always glad to get a women's input in the old Mailbag department, and let's have a great big West 50th St. welcome for Jennifer of Pensacola, Fla. "My first time writing," she says. OK, I'm ready. Let's have your thorniest gridiron problem. Here it is: "How much do you know about African wine?" Just this. When you hear the drums, you pop the cork. "South African to be specific," she adds. Ohhhh, that? Look for anything you can find from Meerlust. Really a high class house. Anything else is mere lust (seems that I've used that line before ... I'm wondering if it's really that funny). Thanks for the praise, Jen, and that of your husband, too.From Steve of Phoenix, home of you know who (who has red hair) -- What do I remember of Tommy Kramer? Caroused a bit. I remember Gary Smith did a big bonus piece on him in the magazine. Made him sound like an All-Pro. Actually he was a gutsy QB who took a lot of chances, threw a lot of picks and had one magnificent year, 1986. The biggest knock on him was that he couldn't stay healthy. The Vikes this year? Almost everyone I know says they're really gonna be good. Gonna sneak up on people. If everyone says that, then it's not a sneak attack anymore, right? Personally? I guess I kind of like them, but I'm curious to see if Chris Hovan regains his form of two years ago. If not? Well, their rushing defense allowed 4.9 yards a crack last season, and that ain't good. Thanks for the nice words, and yeah, I admit I wrote the last mailbag with a hair up my ... uh, with a touch of annoyance, but I've calmed down this week, haven't I. HAVEN'T I?Thanks, Matt. That's Matt of Astoria. The rippers got me down two weeks ago, but not now, mainly because there haven't been any. Matt feels that DTs flash in the pan quicker than vermouth in an omelet? Oy, what an analogy? I'll tell you what's good in an omelet. Linda makes this great meat sauce for lasagna and spaghetti. So you take some of her sauce and make sure there's plenty of meat in it, add Tabasco, cook it in an omelet and guess what? Huevos Rancheros, Ole! The question: Why do these big guys burn out so quickly, case in point being Darrell Russell, who went down in a heap at age 27? Well, in Russell's case, I think there was a little chemical help involved, but for the rest of them, I think the defensive coaches finally have caught on to the idea that no interior D-lineman can play every down. There's got to be some relief from the constant pressure of those sumo monsters leaning on them every play, there's got to be a rotation. As this idea takes hold, seriously, I think you will see the defensive guys hanging around longer.A sincere thanks to Dave of Santa Barbara for finding something nice to say about my draft chart, which consumed many hours and drew much ridicule. Dave wonders if it would be possible to draw up a free agent chart, chronicling success and failure related to money spent? Yes, but not by me. Too complicated, and then you'd have to differentiate street free agents from unrestricted high-priced guys, and all manner of things so time consuming that yours truly wouldn't even think of entering that realm, especially following the reception of the last such venture. But there is a guy who does precisely that. Mike Giddings of Pro Scout, Inc., a private consulting service used by a number of NFL teams. Want to get aboard? It'll cost you something in the neighborhood of serious six figures.Chris of Southfield, Mich., asks a very sensible question. What's the difference between being cut, waived and released, and how does it affect contracts? Cut is the same as waived. A player is released after he has gone through the waiver process and no one has picked him up. If a team picks up a player who has been waived, it must pay him his old salary. If it signs him after he's been released, it can pay him anything, as long as his contract is not below the league minimum.Barry, a Dolphin fan from Holden, Mass., suggests a trade -- Unhappy Adewale Ogunleye for a RB such as KC's Larry Johnson, in the wake of Ricky Williams' departure. No, no and no. Now is not the time to panic. Don't give up a near-Pro Bowl DE, even if he does want more money, for an unproven back-up. So many people have weighed in on the Williams thing that you don't need my two bits worth, so here it is. What bothers me about Williams, and a lot of guys, is that they're kind of inhuman in a way. They just won't communicate. They don't care about anyone else. They can't even recognize their existence. But it's not unique among high-priced athletes. Try dealing with the business community in New Jersey, where I live. The guy who says he'll call you back when the part is ready, who'll call you with an estimate, who'll be over on Thursday ... and then never shows. Never calls. Never writes. Doesn't love you anymore. Amazing how often it happens. These people are inhuman, too. As far as what Miami should do for a running back, well, I called their GM, Rick Spielman, with the following suggestion: Mike Anderson, former running back and current back-up fullback for Denver. I think he'd be OK in the Miami system. If they actually do sign him, remember you heard it here first. "What are your thoughts on Mcallen's 16-year old scotch?" Barry wants to know. Three thoughts -- 1) It's spelled Macallan's, 2) I've never seen a 16-year old ... the 18 is the one I've got in the house, and 3) it's delicious, but I kind of like Glenmorangie a little better because of the exotics.Al. G. of Santa Monica would like my thoughts on Lance Armstrong and the Tour de France. Sure, I'd be glad to provide them if someone could please explain to me what the hell it is that they do. I mean nowhere in the 5,000 pieces I've read is there any explanation of how the rules of that thing work. I've said it many times, I'm interested in any sport in which the stakes are high. I mean I'll watch every minute of every game in World Cup Soccer and love it ... but this Tour thing, hoo boy. It makes me feel awful dumb to watch world class competition without having a clue as to the rules.Well, folks, we've come to the end of a long, hard journey. We've supped from the cup of friendship and tasted the bitter dregs of discord. We have dined on many exotic dishes, and now it's time for dessert, the piece de resistance. Once, when I was a kid, my father bought me a record called I Can Hear It Now with Edward R. Murrow. Recorded sights and sounds of world history. My favorite band was something called The Jungle Answers Back, and it was the sound of jungle warfare in the Pacific in World War II. You'd hear an artillery round being fired, then you'd hear the sounds of the jungle animals screeching and hissing and snarling in response. The jungle answers back. Well, after my prolonged bout with the powers of darkness two weeks ago, the jungle has answered back, and those who have heard the artillery shells are snarling and hissing, not at me, but at those who would pull me down. Andrew has sent me seven pages of commentary from these loyal folk, and I am deeply grateful to all parties concerned. Too many to comment on individually, especially after this thing has run as long as the Trans-Canada Highway, as predicted. But I will mention a few:To Erich of Zagreb, Croatia, and yes, I favor the Croatian wines, particularly the native Teran, but not the Cabernet. French grapes for the French, Croatian grapes for the Croatians, I say. Incidentally, the Redhead and I simply loved the Istrian Peninsula when we were there last year. Unfortunately, that's all we were able to see of Croatia.To Tim of Portland, Ore. -- Someday, maybe, we'll go through a run of Oregon pinots, and please don't forget my favorite, Scott Henry Estates. I agree with you about Denny Green. Good organizer, not a great game day coach.To Michael of Gaithersburg, Md. -- Yes, I think Linda and I will enjoy the New Zealand wines, if it comes to that. When we were there two years ago, I managed to visit 35 wineries. My favorite region was Central Otago, which looks like Wyoming.Distressing news from Michael of Denver. "New Zealand has some really tough rules about bringing pets there." Oh man, that breaks it. What do I tell Little Jake, our tabby? I've got to think this one through.General thanks to Alan of East L.A. and Rob of Charlottesville, Va. And Guy from Northbrook, Ill. Sorry but it's too early to get a read on either Rex Grossman or Terry Shea's Bears' offense. Mark of Tucson suggests that I consider his town instead of NZ. The problem is that it's still the USA and that's what we'd be trying to get away from."Think Vancouver," says Derek of Falls Church, Va. Derek, I was there before you were born. Played in a rugby game there against UBC in Stanley Park. Part two, from Derek. Wants to know the best offensive lines. Well, KC and Green Bay for a start. I like the Titans, hog-wise, and Denver's finesse style is effective, although nasty. New England has a bunch of no-names, but they did it with mirrors against Carolina in the Supe. Jacksonville, believe it or not, looks pretty good to me. I'm probably forgetting a bunch, but it's getting late. I mean seriously late.Sports Illustrated senior writer Paul Zimmerman covers the NFL for the magazine and SI.com. His Power Rankings, "Inside Football" column and Mailbag appear weekly on SI.com. http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/2004/writers/dr_z/07/30/drz.mailbag/ letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8398/1/E-Le-Meridien-moves-into-Croatia.html  Le Méridien moves into Croatia World leisure news03 Aug 2004Le Méridien Hotels & Resort has signed a management contract which will see the hotel operator move into Croatia. The company is to take over a luxury 381-bedroom property in Split on the Croatian Adriatic coast. The hotel is currently closed for redevelopment and will reopen as a Le Méridien seafront destination in early 2006, boasting three restaurants, four bars and health and leisure facilities including indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a spa, a private beach with water sports and two tennis courts. As well as a nightclub and casino, the resort will also offer the largest conference space in Croatia with 2,000sq m of flexible meeting space. Robert Riley, Le Méridien's CEO, said: "This hotel project represents a fantastic opportunity for Le Méridien to move into an emerging destination that has experienced ongoing stability and substantial growth. "Strong inward investment and the anticipated accession to the EU over the next five years will also contribute to the overall success of the region." http://www.worldleisurejobs.com/newsdetail.cfm?codeID=8649  letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8397/1/E-No-Doctor-Luka-but-I-still-fell-in-love.html  No Doctor Luka, but I still fell in love The ER heartthrob might be nowhere in sight, but Dorota Nosowicz doesn't mind - a twin centre trip to Croatia and Slovenia is twice as nice Sunday August 1, 2004The Observer The harbour at Rovinj, Croatia, where the culture and food is heavily influenced by nearby Italy (op-ed: And vice versa). The only Croatian man I have lusted over, along with thousands of ER fans, is Goran Visnjic, the moody but gorgeous Doctor Luka Kovac. So it was with expectations of great natural beauty that I arrived at Rovinj, on Croatia's rocky Istrian coast. First impressions were favourable. The sun shone high, the green sea sparkled and the dusty pastel bars and houses of the old harbour looked inviting. Everything about Rovinj - 40 kilometres from Venice - breathes its Italian influences. Menus and street signs are in both languages and Italian is taught at school. Bohemian and charming, Rovinj is a perfect base from which to visit other parts of Croatia. We wandered the old town of chalkstone-cobbled streets lined with chic shops, artists' studios and cafes, the sun glinting on corn-yellow houses with high-stacked chimney breasts. There was the obligatory religious stop, climbing 192 woodworm-riddled steps to the bell-tower of the 17th-century church of St Euphemia. The reward was a stunning view of terracotta-tiled rooftops, clear sea and surrounding islands. In the distance was Monsena, a nudist resort, celebrating a long Istrian tradition, of which the church strongly disapproves. There are plenty of boat trips from Rovinj - Venice is a two-hour voyage. A shorter option is to sail 12km down Lim Fjord, the longest outside Scandinavia. The rocky coastline, dense with vegetation, is populated by fishermen and naturists - particular thanks to the man who stood full frontal watching our boat pass by (no Doctor Luka he). At the end of the fjord, an amazing restaurant served a banquet of freshly caught giant prawns and squid, helped along by fruity cold wine. We headed back to Rovinj to drink cocktails lying on cushions on the rocks of a shoreline bar. Early the next morning we drove to Fazana, a small harbour village, for the boat to Brijuni: in 1983, three years after his death, Tito's former private island was opened to the public and made a national park. Here you can hire funny looking golf carts and whizz round the island, stopping to check out the Tito museum which brims with photos of him meeting world leaders. Visiting heads of state would offer as gifts animals from every continent (Gandhi bestowed two elephants and a holy cow). When the creatures expired, Tito would have them stuffed - and they're still there. The beautiful Brijuni has long been popular with the famous: Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor came, and Princess Caroline of Monaco holidays there every year. The town of Pula, however, didn't do it for me. Once the Austro-Hungarian Empire's naval base, it was furnace hot when we visited, and although the guidebook describes it as 'engaging', our guide was the grumpiest known to mankind. That said, James Joyce must have found something to write home about, since he taught English there in 1904-5. Certainly the amphitheatre is impressive, built by the Romans towards the end of the first century BC and now a concert venue for the likes of Sting and Plácido Domingo. That night we discovered what has to be Istria's best kept culinary secret: Taverna Vodnjanka in Vodnjan, an unpretentious restaurant run by a Croat family who have embraced all the best elements of Italian food. We gorged on pasta with fungi, truffles and asparagus, sheep's cheese, followed by sea bass, and oven-roasted lamb, washed down with Malvazija white. If I'd stayed any longer I would have come back the size of one of Tito's elephants. Croatia is clearly keen to welcome back tourists: one of our guides was so enthusiastic he assured us that his country has the tallest men, the lowest crime rate in Europe and entirely organic food. What no one talks about is its recent bloody history: in 1991 the Balkan conflict erupted as emerging Croatian and Serbian nationalism tore former communist Yugoslavia apart and Croatian nationalists seized land from the Muslim population. That summer the Croatian parliament declared its independence; autumn and winter saw a terrible war between Croat separatists and an army and paramilitary loyal to Belgrade. Independence was won amid widespread death and destruction on both sides. Croatia also played its part in the carnage across Bosnia between 1992 and 1995 during which Bosnian Croats carved out vast tranches of country inhabited by Bosnian Muslims. Slovenia broke free during a 10-day war in 1991, pulling out of the Yugoslav Federation and voting in favour of independence. In May 1992, with a new constitution, it was admitted to the UN, becoming a full EU member last May. At this year's Observer Travel Awards, it was voted favourite European country. We arrived at the serene and stunning Lake Bled in the north west, which offers long walks by day and blueberry schnapps by night. For the not easily embarrassed, a noddy train circles the massive lake; for cyclists and walkers, there are the Karavanke mountains nearby. On to Bohinj, comprising the Julian Alps, Slovenia's only national park and Lake Bohinj, which we sailed across with a group of sprightly septuagenarians. Like us, they proceeded to walk 240 feet up through the forest to reach Slap Savica, a beautiful waterfall. Our guide was like Denis Lawson's Gordon Urquhart in Local Hero - the island's lawyer, hotelkeeper and bartender. A celebrated musician, he had also appeared in a Slovenian soap opera as a gay hairdresser.I discovered I still had a pulse at Adrenalinski park: here, after too many placid lakeside hours, I allowed myself to be secured into a harness, attached to a giant swing, winched high in the air and released to swing backwards and forwards screaming. There was some silent screaming that afternoon on a boring tour of a cheese factory and museum that charted the history of alpine cheese making. A part of me died in that museum. Otherwise Bohinj is gorgeous - coveted by walkers, climbers, summer cyclists and (with two ski resorts) winter piste-bashers. Slovenia is as pristine and welcoming as Croatia, and although I didn't spot any Dr Luka lookalikes - the food, the clear sea and mountain air kept me deliciously light-headed for the whole visit. For further information on Croatia contact the Croatian National Tourist Board (020 8563 7979; www.croatia.hr). http://travel.guardian.co.uk/countries/story/0,7451,1273654,00.html    letters@croatia.org (Nenad N. Bach) Mon, 02 Aug 2004 01:00:00 -0600 http://www.croatia.org/crown/articles/8403/1/E-In-Croatian-islands-small-is-beautiful-restful-friendly-and-inexpensive.html  In Croatian islands, small is beautiful and restful, friendly and inexpensive By Carol PucciSeattle Times travel writer CAROL PUCCI / THE SEATTLE TIMES Photo LopudA village woman repairs a fishing net on the island of Sipan off the Southern Dalmatian coast of Croatia. The island is part of a chain known as the Elaphites.LOPUD ISLAND, Croatia - I left my husband sitting on a bench near the ferry dock as I followed the woman along a stone path toward a house hidden among a grove of orange trees. "Deutsch?" she asked. The look on her face was hopeful. "No," I said. "I don't speak German. English?" I asked. She smiled and shook her head "no." She had a room to rent. I understood that much, and my husband and I were looking for a place for the next few nights as we explored a trio of small islands in the Adriatic sea off the coast of Dubrovnik. We walked the next couple of seconds in silence as I tried to remember my phrasebook Croatian. "What's your name?" I finally asked. "Ane!," she beamed, throwing her arm around my shoulder and giving me a hug. "You speak Croatian!" And then she told me in halting English that she has an uncle in Texas. We reached her house, a concrete bungalow, and walked to the second floor. She led me into a bright, simply furnished room with a balcony and two white plastic chairs positioned to take advantage of the sea view. CAROL PUCCI / THE SEATTLE TIMES Lopud Island, part of the Elaphite chain of islands, is steeped in history, such as this early Croatian chapel. Cars are prohibited. (see photo at the top)"How much?" I asked. I wasn't sure I understood her answer, so I asked her to write it down. It sounded like she said $30. She did. The islands off the Southern Dalmatian coast in what was part of the former Yugoslavia brim with Venetian-style architecture and sandy swimming beaches. Attracted by prices half of what they are on the other side of the Adriatic in Italy, European tourists flock to Croatia in the summer. Guidebooks point travelers toward well-developed Hvar, Brac and Korcula, but locals favor the quieter Elaphites, or Deer Islands, 13 smaller islands that curve along the Adriatic coastline, none more than an hour and a half by ferry from Dubrovnik.Carts instead of cars Lopud, the second-largest of the Elaphites, is the most developed, but "development" here translates into a handful of restaurants, one store, two hotels and no cars. Only the occasional motorbike or electric cart interrupt the sounds of birds singing and church bells ringing. With about 400 residents, Lopud measures just three square miles - two hills, each with a beach, connected by a rocky valley shaded by Cypress and pine trees - small enough to cross on foot from one side to the other in less than an hour.It took me five minutes to walk back to the waterfront to fetch my husband and our suitcases. Ten minutes later, as we were unpacking, we heard a knock at our door. Ane appeared with a platter of pancakes filled with homemade jam and glasses of orange juice. We drank the juice, but saved the crepes for later, and went in search of lunch. Following the scent of honeysuckle and lemons, we climbed a wooded path above the ferry dock to Konboa Peggy, a seafood restaurant with a shady terrace and a view of a Franciscan monastery built in 1483. Lopud was the regional headquarters of the Republic of Dubrovnik in the 15th century, and nobles built their summer villas here. Scattered around the island were 24 churches and two monasteries. The ruins of many remain. Lunch was a platter of crunchy, fried sardines translated on the menu in English as "little fish," a salad of fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, cheese marinated in olive oil and two beers, all for about $7. CAROL PUCCI / THE SEATTLE TIMES The bell tower of a parish church dominates a panoramic view of Sipanska Luka on Sipan Island, part of the Elaphite chain, off the Southern Dalmatian coast of Croatia near Dubrovnik. (see photo at the top)Afterward we followed a concrete walking path that cut through pine forests and olive groves to a beach on the opposite side of the island at Sunji Bay. A few days earlier, when we had been in Dubrovnik and taken a day-trip to Kolocep, the smallest of the Elaphites, we discovered the meaning of "FKK" (an abbreviation for the German word "Freikörperkultur," meaning Free Body Culture) when we saw the letters painted in red on a shed near a rocky cove. "Stop! Place for Nudists," was written in English on a stone pathway. We spotted the FKK sign again, this time on Sunji, and followed it to a stretch of sand where several people were sunning their nude selves and snacking on calamari from one of the beachfront cafes. The next morning, while waiting for the early ferry coming from Dubrovnik, we learned more about what it means to live on a secluded island. The owner of Lopud's one store was waiting on the dock with a red wagon. So was the waiter we recognized from the Konoba Peggy and a moustached man from the cafe near the nude beach. Once the ferry docked, everyone rushed to unload their booty. Off came rolls of toilet paper, garden hoses, bags of fertilizer, loaves of bread, bottled water, a keg of draft beer, boxes of lemons, heads of lettuce, sacks of potatoes and two potted plants. The job was completed in 10 minutes, and the ferry took off again on schedule for Sipan, the largest of the Elaphites, about 45 minutes by boat from Lopud, and the only one of the three islands that allows cars. Nature and peace Two settlements on Sipan, Sipanska Luka and Sudurad, are connected by a road that cuts across 10 square miles of cow pastures, lavender fields and olive groves. We got off at Sipanska Luka, a quiet fishing village tucked into a horseshoe-shaped bay flanked by limestone hills. Our plan was to look for a place for lunch, then hike across the island about three miles to Sudurad where we could catch a late afternoon ferry back to Lopud. "We get a lot of people but not a lot of commercial tourism like Lopud or Dubrovnik," explained Tanja Brajovic, owner of the Placa Shop. Tourist season was still a few weeks away, and hers was the only shop open. We bought tiny bottles of brandy made with local cherries and olive oil extracted with ancient stone presses. A flask of red liquid contained an herbal potion for clearing up scars. Like the other Elaphites, Sipan enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate, ideal